Cover news reporter Zeng Jie
A cold knowledge, why is China called "Huaxia"? The Tang Dynasty scribe Kong Yingda's "Spring and Autumn Left Transmission of Justice" records: "China has a great ceremony, so it is called Xia, and the beauty of the clothing is called Hua. "As one of the most core symbols of Chinese civilization, the costume culture highlights the cultural style of the Chinese nation, not only showing the beauty of the dazzling costumes, but also carrying the heavy connotation of the Chinese nation's clothing and the state of liturgy."
On January 19, the cover news reporter learned from the Chengdu Museum that the "Yunxiang Clothing - Silk Road Costume Culture Special Exhibition" will be launched on January 25, and 186 pieces/groups of exquisite cultural relics from more than 20 cultural institutions across the country will be unveiled soon, composing a brilliant Jincheng Huazhang. Mainland archaeology has found the earliest cardigans, Mawangdui painted figurines wearing deep-clothed robes, gem-encrusted gold crown ornaments and other heavy cultural relics, highlighting the aesthetic characteristics and clothing culture of people in different periods and different regions.
A raid on clothes unveiled the prosperity of the silk weaving industry in the Warring States
Yi Warring States Jingzhou Museum
China is the origin of the world's silkworm silk weaving, more than 5,000 years ago, the ancestors of the Yangtze River Basin and the Yellow River Basin have completed the exploration process from the domestication of wild silkworms to the silk reeling. Early silk was an important material carrier for health and death, sacrifice to the gods, and communication between heaven and earth; after the Shang Zhou Dynasty, silk gradually evolved into a symbol of status, and weaving flowers and embroidery appeared on it, marking the real beginning of silk art.
Clothes, sound like autumn clothes, belong to the funeral apparatus, no actual wearing function. The Warring States robe from the Jingzhou Museum, excavated with the label of ink book "clothing", is the earliest pair of cardigans found in mainland archaeology so far. It has straight sleeves, two plackets, equal width at the waist and hem, concave back collar, red-brown silk embroidered with a phoenix-like snake pattern, sleeve rim for striped brocade, collar edge is a large diamond-shaped brocade. Although there is no actual wearing function, there are still the basic characteristics of "clothing embroidery, brocade as the edge", which is enough to see the aesthetic trend and the development of brocade weaving technology at that time.
A painting that tells the prosperity of the great unification of the Qin and Han dynasties
After the Qin dynasty unified the world, it once "accepted the six kingdoms of the car and the flag to serve the emperor". Subsequently, with the improvement of the unified political system of the Han Dynasty and the improvement of social productivity, the clothing and crown system was fully implemented, forming a clothing system with Han cultural characteristics.
The deep coat of "up and down, deep body" was one of the popular costumes at that time. The painted figurines unearthed from Mawangdui in Hunan are dressed in deep-clothed robes, with a collared right side, wide sleeves and curved hems, and the robes are painted with red and black colors, and the robe rim and cuffs are painted with red brocade on a black background, which perfectly presents the aesthetic characteristics of the prominent physical beauty of the Han Dynasty costumes.
A wisp of tulle highlights the development of the silk weaving technology of the two Han Dynasties
In addition to the establishment of official silk production institutions in the two Han Dynasties, private workshop-style and family-style silk weaving production also developed by leaps and bounds. The scale of commercial production of silk fabrics has increased by leaps and bounds, not only the output has increased, but also the variety has become increasingly diverse.
Yellow-brown bird diamond pattern "embroidery by the clouds" Western Han Dynasty Hunan Provincial Museum
The Western Han Dynasty yellow-brown pair of bird diamond pattern "cloud embroidery" in this exhibition, with qi as the embroidery ground, weaving and embroidery patterns shine together, geometric patterns, plant patterns, animal patterns alternately distributed, birds, clouds and Seocho flowers are continuously fastened, vermilion, light brown red, olive green three-color silk thread embroidered peach blossom pattern and cloud pattern, is for "cloud embroidery", meaning "phoenix bird riding on the clouds", the picture is vivid, luxurious and abnormal.
At the same time, the gold and silver flame pattern yarn is the earliest three-plate overprinted silk fabric seen so far. After the gold and silver are ground into powder, glued and blended into mud, printed on a light and transparent yarn with a bronze letterpress, the flame pattern (or Boshan shape pattern) is beautiful and colorful, you can imagine how bright and moving it is when it is used as clothing, between walking and swaying.
A golden crown that witnesses the cultural fusion of the Silk Road
In the 2nd century BC, Emperor Wudi of the Han Dynasty sent Zhang Qian on an envoy to the Western Regions to open up a land trade route connecting the Mediterranean countries, that is, the overland "Silk Road", starting from the capital Chang'an (present-day Xi'an). Silk became one of the most important commodities exported to the world by ancient China.
During the Southern and Northern Dynasties, soldiers were disturbed and ethnic groups were integrated. Costumes from different regions and different nationalities are bustling on the Silk Road, and different civilizations use clothing as a carrier to learn from each other and exchange secrets about culture, art and technology.
Gem-encrusted gold crown ornament Han Dynasty Inner Mongolia Museum
Among the many dazzling ornaments on display, the jewel-encrusted gold crown from Inner Mongolia is extremely eye-catching. It is in the shape of a garland, winding leaves and flowers woven from gold leaves, gold wire and gold sheets, and the flowers are inlaid with various gemstones, gorgeous and dazzling, resembling the laurel crown in Greek mythology, witnessing the exchange and integration of northern nomads and Western culture through the grasslands.
A piece of pottery figurine that reflects the golden age of the Tang Dynasty's "Kingdom of Clothing and Crown"
The five-way miscellaneous places during the Southern and Northern Dynasties laid the foundation for the blooming of the costume culture of the Sheng Tang Dynasty. The Tang Dynasty was strong in national strength and frequent cultural exchanges between east and west, and on the basis of absorbing the technology of Central Asian weijin, its patterns were also innovated, and it had the characteristics of the costumes of the northern nomads, creating a detailed crown system.
Painted grey pottery figurines Tang Qingcheng County Museum
In the Tang Dynasty, the atmosphere was open, women's clothing was gorgeous and exquisite, and a trend of bearded clothes and men's clothing arose. The two painted grey pottery figurines in this exhibition can give us a glimpse of what it was like at that time. They comb their heads in black buns and phoenix buns, all wear cardigan underwear, tie loops on the chest, drag different colors of long skirts, and pedal their heads. The figurines should be the image of a noblewoman, with plump cheeks, fine eyebrows, rouge, red lips, dignified and generous forms, graceful and luxurious shapes, exquisite makeup, highlighting the style of the Tang Dynasty.
These thousand-year-old Chinese clothes, brocade robes, and crown ornaments, carrying the shadows of their time, unfold a beautiful picture of the floating green and flowing Dan for today's people. From the domestication of silkworms more than 5,000 years ago, to the development of silk weaving technology between the two Han Dynasties; from the grand east-west exchanges opened by the Silk Road, to the glory of inclusive blooming in the prosperous Tang Dynasty... The beauty of the clothes chapter, covering the world. During the Spring Festival, visit Chengbo and appreciate the beauty of "Huaxia".