Lu Xun on the restaurant: "Half of the wine is returned" is the beginning of his dispute with Hu Shi?

During His stay in Beijing, Lu Xun almost tasted the famous restaurants in Beijing, the famous "Eight Buildings" and "Eight Residences", all of which left his footprints more or less. This indissoluble relationship with northern cuisine has made him remember northern cuisine since he left Beijing.

At that time, Lu Xun lived in Beijing's Xicheng, ate nearby, and often went to Tongheju in the west of Xisipailou Road, which was also one of the famous "Eight Residences" in Beijing, dealing in Shandong cuisine. Its famous dishes include fried fat intestines, nine-turn fat intestines, three non-stick, etc., and even Have Guangheju's signature dish - Pan fish. Lu Xun likes the fried shrimp balls here the most, because this dish belongs to the Shaoxing flavor and is a new dish introduced by the northern restaurant when the north and south are integrated. In addition, Lu Xun likes to bake large steamed buns here, that is, brush a layer of oil on the steamed buns and bake them.

Now Beijing pays attention to "eating in the east", Lu Xun at that time, Dongcheng also had a lot of food, but because he worked in Xicheng, he went less. The more famous museum recorded in the diary is Dongxing Building. Lu Xun and Hu Shi had two dinners in the east, both in Dongxing Building. One time it was Hu Shi who invited Lu Xun, and the other time it was Yu Dafu who invited Lu Xun and Hu Shi. Lu Xun's diary on February 27, 1932: "In the afternoon, Hu Shizhi went to the ministry, and in the evening he went to dong'an market, and then went to Dongxing Lou to invite Yu Dafu to drink, and the wine was half returned." It seems that this time the food is not very happy, perhaps it is one of the beginnings of the dispute between Hulu and Lu.

Lu Xun did not eat this meal well, but the dishes of DongxingLou selected by Yu Dafu were still very authentic. Opened in 1903, the building was originally located on Dong'anmen Avenue in Beijing, closed in 1944, and resumed in 1982 on Guijie Street, Dongzhimen Nei Avenue, and was one of the "eight buildings" (Dongxing Building, Taifeng Building, Zhimei Building, Hongxing Building, Zhengyang Building, Xinfeng Building, Anfu Building and Chunhua Building) in Beijing in the early years of the Republic of China. Lu Xun has been to most of these buildings, although each building has duplicate dishes, but each has its own characteristics. For example, the sauce fried chicken is a dish that Lu Xun and Hu Shi like very much, and this dish Dongxinglou does the best. Because it is said that Dongxinglou was opened by a eunuch surnamed He combing his hair in the Qing Palace, there are many chefs who come out of the palace, such as sauce fried chicken cubes, sand pot bear paws, bird's nest shark fins are all transferred from the palace cuisine in Dongxinglou.

Fried chicken in sauce is a home-cooked dish that families can make, but the court's approach requires that the chicken be made as tender as tofu, with full color and flavor. This dish is delicious, there are many exquisite, such as stir-frying with lard, using yellow sauce instead of sweet noodle sauce, but these two points are difficult for many restaurants to do now. I have always stressed that food culture should be innovative, but the foundation must first retain and inherit the tradition, otherwise it is chaotic.

A restaurant in Xicheng called Hutchison Kokan is a place that Lu Xun often goes, which is basically equivalent to his work canteen, and it is separated from the Ministry of Education where Lu Xun works. The stuff here is tasty and cheap. Lu Xun mentioned in his diary of the twenty-third day of the first month of 1918: "Light snow. The second brother came to the ministry and invited Chen Shizeng and Qi Shoushan to go to The Peace To remember dinner. "In fact, Hutchison is famous for selling beef and mutton, Lu Xun likes to eat large pieces of beef noodles in clear soup here, unfortunately Beijing can rarely eat this kind of noodles now, we are not as good as Lu Xun.

At noon, Lu Xun often dragged Chen Shizeng and Qi Shoushan to a small restaurant called Long Haixuan on West Chang'an Avenue to eat. At noon, Lu Xun likes to drink some small wine, and the best dish of this family is soft fried liver tip, which is his favorite appetizer. This dish is cut into slices with the upper part of the pork liver, marinated for a while with salt, cooking wine, and MSG, then hung with egg paste, then fried with 70% or 80% hot peanuts, fished out when the surface paste has just solidified, heated the oil in the pan until it is boiling, and then put the tip of the liver down to fry. In this way, the tip of the liver is fried twice, and the outside is crispy and tender on the inside.

Lu Xun's frequented restaurants, as well as Huaiyang-style Nanwei Zhai and Yuchun Lou, Fujian restaurant Xiao Youtian, Henan restaurant Hou Defu, Guangdong restaurant drunk Qionglin. On September 11, 1912, Lu Xun's diary recorded: "In the evening, Hu Mengle invited to drink in nanwei zhai, gai juzi Qingye, and a total of nine people in the same table..." This nanwei zhai and the Chunhua Building and Xingchunju at that time were famous Jiangsu pavilions. The specialties are sweet and sour yellow croaker and shrimp tendons. Lu Xun's diary of September 27, 1912, also mentioned: "Late drinking in the field of persuasion is a small day, Dong Gongshi, Qian Daosun, Xu Jidi are sitting, the dishes are all Fujian-style, not very palatable, and the so-called red bad people are not beautiful." ”

It seems that Lu Xun is still not very accustomed to Fujian cuisine, and it is rare to mention in his diary that he does not like to eat "food". A person's appetite is actually related to a person's personality, for example, people who are too stubborn always like to eat a few things he recognizes, and when they eat other things, they say that they are not delicious. And people with a broad heart, the corresponding food range is also wider. Judging from the bad comments on food in his diary, Lu Xun is actually not a broad-minded person, and often gets angry and begins to write articles to scold people.

Zhimei Building is also one of the "eight buildings" that Lu Xun likes. Zhimei Building used to operate Gusu cuisine, opened during the Qianlong period, closed in 1948, and reopened in 1980. Its specialty dishes are fried chicken fillets, bad fish fillets, oil fried belly shreds and so on. This shows that the chef skills of ZhimeiLou are very high, because the production techniques such as slipping, catching stir-frying, and pulling are very testing cooking skills, and people without ability can't do it at all. I once collected a menu for the Banquet to The Beauty House on April 23, 1984. One side of the menu is already printed with signature dishes, and the other side is blank. When ordering meals, according to different needs, there will be someone to fill in the on-site letter with a brush. The upper part of the menu is printed with the words "Zhimeilou Flavor Cuisine", which were inscribed by Fu Jie after it reopened in 1980. In this menu I have in my collection, there are two court dishes, one called "Dragon Play Phoenix", which is cooked with chicken and squid. The other is called "five willow fish", which is fried with shredded fish, shredded pork, shredded mushrooms and bamboo shoots, and is a very difficult dish to make.

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