Wen | Liu Shaoyi
If you talk about the books that Lu Xun bought or collected, everyone will definitely think of Mr. Lu Xun's diary. In his diary, he not only recorded in detail the number of books purchased each time, but also clearly recorded the companions at the time of book purchase and the people he met in the book purchase market, and also wrote down the amount of money spent on book purchases. In fact, Mr. Lu Xun's diary records the details of his life in great detail, and his food is also worth mentioning.
In Mr. Lu Xun's life journey, Beijing and Shanghai are the two cities where he has lived for a long time. In the decade from 1912 to 1926, he visited sixty-five famous restaurants in Beijing. Sichuan Hotel, Central Hotel, Xi'an Hotel, German Hotel he has been, Zhimei Building, Dongxing Building, Guangfu Building, Taifeng Building, Xinfeng Building he has been, and what Guangheju, Cheap Fang, Lanwei Zhai, Tongheju, Xinghua Village he has also been. Therefore, Lu Xun's diary, for the food industry, can not but be said to be a precious material.
Mr. Lu Xun's favorite guangheju, in addition to its location at the head of the "Eight Great Residences" in Beijing, is also because it is relatively close to where Lu Xun lives. Lu Xun was living in the Shanhuiyi Pavilion at that time, which was later renamed Shaoxing Guild Hall, and the hutong was facing the gate of Guangheju, so sometimes when guests came to visit, Lu Xun directly let Guangheju deliver meals to his home, which was the "takeaway" at that time.
Of course, in addition to meeting Lu Xun's taste, the dishes of the above-mentioned restaurants are also related to their taste. Stir-fried waist flowers, fried croquettes, Sichuan spicy fish meal skin, casserole tofu, steamed scallops, sour and spicy soup, etc. are all transformed from court cuisine. In addition, many dishes are also linked to celebrities, such as "Pan Fish", which was created by Pan Zuyin in the late Qing Dynasty, which was originally called Pan's Steamed Fish, later referred to as "Pan Fish". There was also "Zeng Yu", which was rumored to have been created by Zeng Guofan, and the "Three Non-Sticks" was named after Li Hongzhang's son-in-law Zhang Peilun, and so on, which aroused great interest among officials and literati at that time.
It can be seen from Lu Xun's diary that Lu Xun not only loves to smoke, but also likes to drink. The person who drank the most with Lu Xun was his friend Yu Dafu. The appetizers that the two of them often order when they drink wine are fried waist flowers, spicy fish meal skin, casserole tofu and so on. Guangheju's fried waist flower method is very special, two pots are fired at the same time, one pot to heat the oil, the other pot to boil water, first put the cut waist flower into the hot water blanched, when the oil temperature rises to the highest, immediately fish the waist flower out of the water into the oil pot to explode, immediately put into the colander, leave a little bottom oil to fry some garlic seedlings, fungus, and then add the waist flower into the rapid stir-fry, hook the mustard, add ginger water, cooking wine, soy sauce, sugar, vinegar is ready. The waist flowers produced in this way are golden red, especially crisp and tender, which is very suitable for drinking, so it has become the first choice for the two of them to drink.
Although Lu Xun drank a small amount of wine, he drank with Yu Dafu, never left a amount, and often drank drunkenly, which can also be seen from Yu Dafu's poem to Lu Xun: "Drunken eyes hazy on the restaurant, as if wandering and shouting for two leisurely." ”
"Wine is less than a thousand cups for confidants", although Lu Xun likes to drink, it is also to see the object, and those who do not like themselves or those who have some disagreements are also "not speculative in half a sentence". From Lu Xun's diary, it can be seen that he and Hu Shi had two dinners in Dongxing Building, one time when Hu Shi invited Lu Xun, and the other time when Yu Dafu invited Lu Xun and Hu Shi. Lu Xun wrote in his diary on February 27, 1932: "In the afternoon, Hu Shizhi went to the ministry, and in the evening he went to Dong'an Market, and then went to Dongxing Lou to invite Yu Dafu to drink, and the wine was half returned." Obviously, this meal was not happy, which may have been one of the beginnings of the dispute between Lu Xun and Hu Shi.
It can be seen from Lu Xun's diary that Lu Xun not only likes to go to the famous "Eight Buildings" and "Eight Residences" in Beijing, but also likes to go to the Huaiyang-style Nanwei Zhai and Yuchun Lou, as well as the Fujian restaurant Xiao Youtian, the Henan restaurant Hou Defu, and the Guangdong restaurant Drunken Qionglin. On September 11, 1912, Lu Xun wrote: "Late Hu Mengle beckoned to drink in Nanwei Zhai, Gai Juzi's Qingye, a total of nine people in the same table..." On September 27, 1912, he wrote: "Late drinking in the field of persuasion is a small day, Dong Gongshi, Qian Daosun, Xu Jidi are present, the dishes are all Fujian-style, not very palatable, and the so-called red bad people are not beautiful." It seems that Lu Xun is indeed a little uncomfortable with Fujian cuisine, because in his diary Lu Xun rarely mentions dishes he does not like.
When he was in Shanghai, Lu Xun also liked to go to some well-known restaurants, and Zhiwei Guanhang Restaurant, Liangyuan Zhimei Lou, Dexing Pavilion, Gong Delin and so on had left his footprints. Flower chicken, West Lake vinegar fish, Dongpo meat, West Lake lettuce soup, etc. are all famous dishes of Zhiwei Guanhang Restaurant.
As for Liangyuan Zhimei Building, as soon as you hear it, you will know that it is a famous building of Yu cuisine, which was founded by Yue Xiukun and others in Kaifeng, Henan, opened in 1920, and moved to the vicinity of jiujiang road and Zhejiang Road intersection in 1980, mainly engaged in Henan cuisine and palace cuisine, very famous.
The Dexing Pavilion was even earlier, it opened in 1883, was founded by the builder Wan Yunsheng, and later moved to Dongmen Road, when many tycoons in Shanghai loved it, and Lu Xun often came here to entertain friends from other places. Founded by Zhao Yunshao, the apprentice of Master Wei Jun of Changxiang Monastery in Hangzhou City, Gongdelin opened in 1922 and moved to the vicinity of Nanjing West Road on Yellow River Road in 1942, five-spiced roasted bran, meritorious ham, vegetarian crab powder, Luohan cuisine, etc. are its signature dishes, very popular with cultural celebrities, in addition to Lu Xun, Liu Yazi, Shen Junru, Zou Taofen, Shi Liang, Sha Qianli and others also often patronize this shop.
Lu Xun's love for food is also reflected in his works, such as "Blessing" and "A Q Zheng biography" and other novels, there are food figures.
"Blessings" mentioned that there is a dish called Qing stewed shark fin soup in Fuxing Lou in Shaoxing City, which is a large plate for one yuan and one large plate, which is cheap and good, and it is indispensable to eat. Although this Fuxing Building is fictional in the novel and does not exist, shark fin stew is a famous dish that was popular in Shaoxing at that time.
In "The True Biography of Ah Q", Lu Xun wrote such a sentence: "Fried big fish heads, weizhuang all add half-inch long green onion leaves, but in the city add finely chopped green onions." "This is also the characteristic of Shaoxing cooking fish, when making fish, put some green onions, pickled peppers, pickled ginger and sweet and sour seasonings, which can really make the fish become sour and spicy and delicious."
Even for example, Lu Xun did not forget to use good food, "Many historical lessons have been exchanged for great sacrifices." For example, if you eat something, some kind of poison can't be eaten, we seem to be all used to it, very common. However, this must have been known only after many people had eaten to death before. So I think that the first time to eat crab is very admirable, not a warrior who dares to eat it? This passage in Lu Xun's "Two Impressions of This Spring" is a clear proof.
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