The church is a form of architecture
Generally refers to tall houses
For example, halls, churches
In Beijing, from the late Qing Dynasty onwards
Some famous restaurants appeared
They are named after the hall and have a stage inside
Sing big plays, do big banquets
The scale of the banquet is huge
It can accommodate five or six hundred people to eat together
"Eight Lobby"
It was once in Beijing
Top eating places
In the last issue, we learned about it together
In the "Eight Lobby"
Fukushou hall, Tenfudo Hall and Keokaido
Today, the cultural tourism jun takes you to "taste"
Tonghetang's "chrysanthemum pot" and
Juxian Hall's "Exploding Bell Double Juice"
Tonghetang
The opening time of Tonghetang is unknown, but it was closed at the beginning of the War of Resistance Against Japan.
As one of the "Eight Halls", Tonghetang is more special, it does not have a stage, it can not only accept banquets, but also accept guests to drink at zero. Although it is different from other "tang" restaurants, because there are several exclusive dishes, it is also loved by politicians and celebrities at that time, and its reputation is very strong, and it can be ranked in the "eight halls".
The address of Tonghetang is on Baozi Street. Nowadays, not to mention that Tonghetang is gone, even Baozi Street has to go through the old maps of the Republic of China period to find it. The approximate location of Baozi Street, on the south side of today's Fuxingmennei Street, from the Xidan intersection to the west to the vicinity of downtown, is a long east-west street. It is the commercial district of Beijing City, very prosperous, and Tonghetang is very famous.
Because there was the best "chrysanthemum pot" in Jeonbeiping at that time. There is also a famous dish "Tianti Duck Palm".
Illustrator: Wang Yunyi
Chrysanthemum pot
Chrysanthemum pot, also known as chrysanthemum pot, is a kind of hot pot. On a small hollowed-out stove is a pot with a curved bottom. In the pot are pure-bred white chrysanthemums. At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the people, this chrysanthemum pot was very popular for a while, but only Tonghetang was different, especially fresh and not greasy.
● Soup base: The use of the popular chicken and duck soup, but the best rib hanging broth, and after layers of sweeping soup, the pot is obviously soup, but it looks like a pot of water, refreshing and pleasant.
● Pot ingredients: must be handled very fine mandarin fish fillets, small live shrimp, pork belly, waist slices, pieces (poultry internal organs, such as liver, heart, etc.), to wart cramps, a hot cook.
●Chrysanthemums: Delicately selected and cleaned.
●Vermicelli and steamed buns: They are all fried in a head pan, and there is no smell of smoke and flames at all.
"A chrysanthemum pot sells for two cents, not even enough money." Of course, very few people come to Tonghetang and only order a chrysanthemum pot, not other dishes.
The chrysanthemum pots in Tonghetang are always lit with alcohol before being served to the guests.
As soon as the broth in the pot was opened, the tea room lifted the lid of the pot and quickly put several plates of pot ingredients together. When the broth in the pot is rolled again, put the chrysanthemum petals. Cover the pot, simmer slightly, and even the soup with vegetables, put it in a small bowl for the guests to eat.
Chrysanthemum pot in the Forbidden City Corner Tower Restaurant
If you don't grasp it well, the ingredients in the pot will be burned and old, and the freshness will be lost, which is a pity. The restaurant's tea room comes to help divide the dishes, and it only appears when the chrysanthemum pot is ordered in Tonghetang.
At that time, Mr. Ye Gongqiu, the chief of transportation of the Beiyang Government, studied the golden stone at home in autumn and winter, and always liked to order the chrysanthemum pot of Tonghetang to help entertain. Mr. Ip served as The Minister of Communications in August 1920, so it is known that Tonghetang was opened before 1920.
Ladder duck palm
Tonghetang also has a famous dish, which is "Tianti Duck Palm". This dish is easy to eat. At the end of the year, it is sure that you can eat it at the annual meeting of tonghetang to seal the stove and feast on the big money lord.
It's like a convention. As long as the stove is closed when the banquet comes, the new year will take care of the business of this restaurant, and will never empathize with other restaurants and go to other restaurants. At such an important moment, it must be the secret of the bottom of the pressure box - the ladder duck palm.
This dish is served in collaboration with roast duck restaurants. Because in the past, the roast duck shop did not give customers duck paws. Duck palms are not very useful in roast duck restaurants, but they are very useful in Tonghetang.
The chef soaks the duck paws with water, usually soaks them for a day, tears off the film on the palms along the lines, and then soaks the duck paws with rice wine. When the duck paws are soaked, look fat, take them out, remove the bones and tendons, and then select the fat and thin ham in half, cut into two thick slices, a slice of ham sandwiched with a duck paw, and then the sliced fresh shoots are smeared with honey, and the fresh bamboo shoots of the duck paw ham are bundled together with kelp silk and slowly steamed over low heat.
The aroma of ham is mixed with the sweet, plump and moist duck paws of honey, eat a bite and think about it for a year.
This dish is said to be loved by no one, and it is a delicacy on earth.
Mr. Tang Lusun, the cousin of Princess Zhenfei, recalled that Hong Xiannian Zuo Nei Shi Ruan Douzhan was very fond of Tonghetang's Tianti duck palm, and after eating it, he never forgot it. Hong Xiannian was from December 25, 1915 to March 22, 1916, from which it is known that Tonghetang was named Manjing city before 1915. Tonghetang, chrysanthemum pot, and tianti duck palm can only capture some remnants in historical materials.
During the Spring Festival of 2019, restaurants outside the Forbidden City tried to restore the chrysanthemum pot. However, the Heavenly Ladder Duck Palm, and the TongheTang, are still drifting away.
Juxian Hall
Juxian Hall is a member of the "Eight Halls" of Beijing in the late Qing Dynasty and early Ming Dynasty, next to Tonghe Hall, on the same street: Baozi Street near Xidan Arch.
Juxian Hall has buildings on three sides and a stage, which is a standard Beijing "hall" restaurant. The business of Lu cuisine is very grand. The signature dish is "Fried Bell Double Juice".
In the late Qing Dynasty and early Ming Dynasty, in addition to the famous roast duck in Beijing, there was also a dish called "roast pig", that is, "roast suckling pig", or "roast piglet".
At that time, large families celebrated the New Year's Festival and held happy events, and this scene dish was indispensable. Unless you have a kitchen and a chef at home, the generally large households that are not strong enough need to eat this dish, have to go to the stove to "call", book in the morning, and deliver it to the home in the afternoon. Later, in time for the war and the slaughter tax, this "roast piglet" basically could not eat, because ordering this dish, you also had to pay taxes, and the procedures were too troublesome.
JuxianTang's "fried bell double juice" has to be made with the crispy skin of the roasted piglet, returned to the pot and then fried, and then out of the pot, the chef completes the last step: the sweet and salty hook sauce double poured in advance. At that time, as long as there was a banquet in Juxian Hall, he must have ordered this dish.
Unfortunately, no one has done the roast piglets, and this famous dish is now only a dish name.
At that time, JuxianTang's telephone was 1416 West 1292, and in 1931, Mr. Lao She made this call. That year, Mr. Lao She and His Wife Hu Xuanqing chose to hold a wedding ceremony at Juxian Hall.
Later, juxian hall was gone.
Learn about the past
For a better tomorrow
Today's "Eat in Beijing"
I'll introduce you here
See you in the next issue
Content Source:
"Old Beijing Narrative Food And Famous Food"
Image Source:
Study in China
Liberation Daily
Forbidden City Corner Tower Restaurant