Text | Wei Shuihua
What are the famous dishes in Hangzhou?
If you do such a questionnaire survey, you may be Longjing shrimp, West Lake vinegar fish, called flower boy chicken, Song Sister-in-law fish soup, Dongpo meat, is the first five chairs of the dish. But if you tell this result to the natives of Hangzhou, most of them will scoff: "Whoever has nothing to do with these thankless things is cheating tourists in restaurants, and I have never eaten shrimp with tea leaves when I grew up." ”
What do natives of Hangzhou eat? This question, the answer given by Stuart Redden, may be in line with the tastes of most Hangzhou people. Yes, it was Chairman Mao's last U.S. ambassador to China, Stuart Layden, who represented "the prestige of U.S. imperialism in China."
Stuart Leiden claimed to be an authentic Hangzhou native. His parents were missionaries to China, and his birthplace was Jesus Church Lane in Hangzhou's Tianshui Bridge. Before the age of 11, he never left Hangzhou, so he could speak fluent Hangzhou dialect. He said: "My Hangzhou dialect is better than English. ”
In Situ Leiden's biography, it is recorded that when he was eating at the Wang Runxing Restaurant in Hefang Street, Hangzhou, he explained to his fellows: "The pieces should be thin and fattened; Mulang tofu should be peppered and burned to taste; the bells should be boiled a little!" "As long as there are three dishes, but they are all the hearts of Hangzhou people."
Pieces, or "salty pieces", are large pieces of pickled pork belly. It is not ham, not clear sauce meat, but nanfeng meat that is "pickled" for ten days and half a month with pepper and salt. Use a quick knife with a thin strip of fat to cut thin slices, the thinner the better. The yard was neatly steamed in the fire, the fat meat of the finished product was crystal clear, the lean meat was slightly red and elastic, delicious, and the rice was delicious.
Mulang tofu, that is, fish head tofu. Hangzhou people love to eat fish heads, it is best to use tender water tofu together to roll out the white soup, add more white pepper, and put a few small greens before the pot, which is a good dish of "famous".
Ringing is a favorite dish of Hangzhou people, a small rotten skin roll, fried in a large oil pan until golden brown, thin as a cicada wing, served while hot, dipped in sweet sauce or pepper salt, sent into the mouth, "click" a sound, is for "ringing".
The technical content of this thing is not high, but the operation must be fast, as long as it is served a little later, the bell will not be damp and brittle, can not hear the sound, the taste is naturally not authentic. Therefore, the adverb "boiling a little" here by Situ Leiden is used too well, and in the Hangzhou dialect, this means "100,000 fires, hurry up".
Authentic Hangzhou bell, is necessary to use Fuyang tofu skin as raw materials, this tofu skin oil glossy, toughness is very large, into the oil pot is not scattered or paste. If the quality of the tofu skin is slightly inferior, the finished dish must be unmanageable. Rotten skin roll also need to put a little lean meat minced, can not carry a little fat meat, so that the fried bell core can eat a little bit of fried into the meat crispy taste, meat can not be more, more will change the bell itself "crisp" the biggest feature, into another dish "green onion meat".
Hangzhou people must also ring the bell when they go to the restaurant, probably to make up for the regret of not eating enough at home, but all the old brands with a little age, such as Tianxiang Lou, Louwai Lou, and Wang Runxing, the imperial rice, are quite authentic.
It is hard to believe that in the eyes of outsiders, the traditional building is no longer traditional, but it is the first restaurant to try to dip the bell with ketchup - the bell is afraid of moisture, so it cannot be dipped in water quality spices such as balsamic vinegar and soy sauce. Traditional pretzels and sweet sauces don't highlight the crispness of the bells very well. Imported ketchup, but a good solution to this problem, after the invention of this way of eating outside the building, imitators, to this day, ketchup has almost become the standard of bells.
The strange thing is that although the bell making process is simple, I have never seen a place where good governance is good anywhere else away from Hangzhou. Either there is less minced meat and no meat aroma; or the cooking speed is too slow, and the tide is like a vegetarian roast goose. There should be no Hangzhou people who leave Hangzhou who will not be homesick for this.
(This article is the special content of NetEase News and NetEase number "each has its own attitude")
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