Roasted wheat, also known as roasted wheat, slightly wheat, slightly plum, roasted plum, ghost puffy head, is to describe the top of the fluffy bunch folded like a flower shape, a kind of hot noodles for the skin wrapped in filling, basket steamed noodle snacks, white crystal, filling thin skin, delicious and delicious. The main difference between it and the bun is that in addition to the use of unleavened noodles to make the skin, it is also that the top is not sealed, and it has the advantages of small dumplings and steamed dumplings, which are often used as a feast dish.
Burnt wheat, originated in the western region of Inner Mongolia in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, and later spread to Beijing and Tianjin, known as roasted wheat. According to historical records: In the Yuan Dynasty, there was a "vegetarian sour stuffing slightly wheat" for sale in Beijing, which was steamed with wheat noodles made into thin slices of meat, and eaten with soup, which was called slightly wheat in dialects. "Wheat" is also done as "selling", "thin skin meat solidly chopped meat, when the top of the thin like a line slightly tied, so it is called slightly wheat." Or "with noodles as the skin, with meat as the filling, when the top is made of flower buds, the dialect is called burning and selling". However, until now, only Beijing and Sichuan are called "roasted wheat", and other places are still called "roasted".
In the Ming and Qing dynasties, although the term "slightly wheat" was still used, the names of "burning and selling" and "burning wheat" also appeared, and the use of "burning and selling" appeared more frequently. For example, the tenth time in the "History of Ru Lin": "There were two plates of dim sum on the table, a plate of pork hearts for sale, and a plate of dumplings steamed with goose oil and sugar." There is also an account of "peach blossom burning and selling" in the "Golden Bottle Plum Words". The bamboo branch words of the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty have the saying that "burned wheat wontons are listed on a full plate". In the Qing Dynasty anonymous compilation of the recipe "Tuning Ding Collection", there are "meat stuffing roasted sale", "bean paste roast sale", "oil sugar roast sale" and so on. Among them, "meat stuffing is sold" is made with chicken and ham with seasonal vegetables as filling. "Oil and sugar roasting" is made of diced oil, walnut kernels and white sugar as a filling, and in the south there is also a kind of "marinated sprouts for sale".
There are many folk theories about the origin of the word burnt wheat. First, the roasted wheat in the early years was sold in the tea house, and diners drank thick brick tea or various small leaf teas while eating hot roasted wheat, so the roasted wheat was also called "carrying selling", which means "carrying and selling". In order to distinguish the small dishes of the tea guests, they are not sealed. Whenever a basket is steamed, the shopkeeper will bring the steamer basket to the large table in the tea hall and say, "The small dishes of the tea guests have come, and they will choose their own." At this time, the tea guests each ordered their own "pancake cabbage" while eating and drinking. There is also a saying that roasted wheat was originally called a pinch bun because of its indecent name. Because its edge resembles an ear of wheat, it was changed to burned wheat.
Chinese Sichuan cuisine famous teacher Professor Tang produced white jade roasted wheat Shu Guo re-production
Today, the variety of roasted wheat is extremely rich and exquisitely made. For example, Henan has cut stuffed roasted wheat, Hebei scallion pork roasted wheat, Anhui has duck oil roasted wheat, Hangzhou has beef roasted for sale, Jiangxi has egg roast for sale, Shandong has lamb for sale, Suzhou has three fresh roast for sale; Changsha has chrysanthemum roast for sale; Guangzhou has dry steamed wheat, fresh shrimp roasted wheat, crab roast wheat, pork liver roast wheat, beef roast wheat and pork ribs roasted wheat, as well as Taiwan's double flower roasted wheat, pork roast wheat, shrimp roast wheat, etc., all have their own local characteristics. However, in the past, the filling of roasted wheat was different in four seasons: spring was dominated by green leeks, summer was preferably for mutton and zucchini, crab meat filling was the most appropriate in autumn, and three fresh were used as the order in winter.
The most famous wheat roast in China is also the "capital of Beijing", which is still in the city. The yakitori in all areas is most popular with three fresh and crab roasted wheat. Legend has it that as early as the third year of Qianlong, Wang Ruifu, a villager in Beijingli, Fushan County, Shanxi Province, opened a fushan roasted wheat restaurant in the fresh fish mouth outside the front gate of Beijing. On the night of Chinese New Year's Eve one year, Qianlong returned from a private visit in Tongzhou and went to the Fushan Roasted Wheat Restaurant to eat roasted wheat, feeling that the roasted wheat filling was tender and fragrant, the oil was not greasy, and the white crystal was white, like a jade pomegranate. Qianlong was full of praise after eating, and after returning to the palace, he personally wrote three big characters of "Du Yi Du" and ordered people to make a plaque and send it to the Fushan Roasted Wheat Restaurant. Since then, the reputation of the roasted wheat restaurant has been greatly enhanced, and its value has doubled.
Leshan roasted wheat specialty store
The Story of McChu
Roasted wheat in Sichuan is also called "brush head" and "roasted wheat". In Chengdu, it first appeared in the Shaocheng area as a halal food brought by the Manchus. Fu Chongjue wrote in his book "Chengdu Overview": "All kinds of roasted wheat, large meat roasted wheat, ground vegetable roast wheat, frozen vegetable roast wheat, lamb roast wheat, chicken skin roast wheat, pheasant roast wheat, golden hook roast wheat, vegetarian roast wheat, sesame roast wheat, plum blossom roast wheat, Lianpeng roast wheat..."
Later, almost most bun shops and dumpling shops also had roasted wheat for sale. By 1938, two brothers, Hou Zongrong and Hou Zongxuan, opened a noodle shop in Desheng Street, Chengdu, named "Zhonghua Garden". Hou Zongrong, a native of Jianyang County, grew up poor and only studied private school for one and a half years. When he was nine years old, he was brought to Chengdu by relatives and introduced to the Apprentice Helper of Han Zibin Bun Shop on Desheng Street. From 1931 to 1936, he worked at the Tongyuan Noodle Shop and the Tsinghua Xuan Noodle Shop on Tie Ho Jing Street. After starting a family, he and his brothers opened the "China Garden" noodle shop.
The Hou brothers are very good at pasta making, he is both eclectic and eclectic, and strives to be exquisite in the production of pastry, each with its own flavor characteristics, even a bowl of ripa braised noodles, but also delicious. In this way, it was widely favored by diners soon after its opening, and the business was booming.
Street-side wheat shop
With the spread of word of mouth, the "China Garden" is full of diners every day, and the store is very crowded, resulting in many inconveniences in operation. So I moved the shop to Gulou North Third Street. One day, Mr. Li Changlao, a famous calligrapher in Bashu, came to taste it, and after eating it, he said with great satisfaction: Chengdu actually has such delicious noodles, which has the intention of seeing each other and hating each other. When the Hou brothers saw that this great calligrapher was very appreciative, they respectfully asked Mr. Li lao to teach him, and Li Lao said happily: It is only the three words "Zhonghua Garden" that are still not elegant. The Hou brothers hurriedly asked for a name, and Elder Li promised to leave.
Who knew that the next day, Elder Li sent someone to send a banner. The Hou brothers hurriedly opened it to see, writing the word "Mai Qiu" in the Book of Deitu, the rhyme of The Book of Di is extremely powerful, and the name of "Mai Qiu" has a deep meaning and is quite intriguing. Wheat, flour also, points out that its business is characterized by pasta; Qiu, is homophonous with Qiu, which implies the meaning of "hilly", implying that the pasta is rich in varieties and can be selected by the king. At the same time, the name "Mai Qiu" also implies that the business is prosperous, the wealth is luxuriant, and it sounds, it seems, it is very elegant and subtle, very tasteful. The two brothers were overjoyed, and immediately asked someone to make a gold character horizontal plaque, hanging on the door of the store, the font was vigorous, the golden light was shining, the eye was attractive, the business was more and more prosperous, and there was a great effect of a product title and a hundred times the value.
When the roasted wheat came to Tianfu, it became much smaller and more exquisite.
Glass roasted wheat
Chengdu snacks have always been famous, and the noodles are not popular. Especially in the 1930s and 40s, Chengdu, as a gathering place for famous snacks in Bashu, has reached its peak in history, and Dragon Scribe, Wu Scribe, Ye Scribe, Dan Dan Noodles, Song Sister-in-law Noodles, Zhong Shui Dumplings, Han Buns, Xiaolong Buns, Tongjing Lane Vegetarian Noodles, Sweet Water Noodles, Zhang Mazi Crisp Noodles, Tan Bean Flower Noodles, etc., have been famous business all year round. In the early 1940s, after studying the market, the Hou brothers felt that they could only do what they did not have, and they could only make a brand. They found that although there are many people selling roasted wheat in Chengdu, they are almost not distinctive, and the famous ones are rare, so they decided to make a unique roasted wheat.
Hou brothers originally made noodles craftsmanship is very skilled, coupled with the mind of skill, soon launched a kind, the skin is thin like white silk, clean and smooth, the filling is tender and fragrant, eating extremely comfortable roasted wheat, steamed skin transparent like glass, visible filling, so named "glass roasted wheat". This rare name immediately attracted many diners, and once they ate it, they clapped their hands and applauded, and the glass roasted wheat became famous in Rongcheng.
Glass roasted wheat Chinese Sichuan cuisine famous teacher professor Tang produced Shu Guozhong
After the success of glass roasting wheat, Mai Qiu's Hou brothers were convinced that a flower alone was not spring, and they continuously developed a stewed chicken scribble and a golden hook bag. The stewed chicken copy is also as thin as silk, the copy hand is placed in a blue and white porcelain bowl, floating in the clear fragrant chicken soup, like a goldfish playing in the water, crystal clear, smooth and tender; the golden hook bun is kneaded with high-quality flour with sugar, lard and yeast noodles, and the filling is made of peeled pork pork ribs, golden hook, fragrant mushrooms, magnolia slices, Deyang soy sauce and other seasonings, steamed bun skin thin loose foam, fresh flavor, meat tender slag. As a result, glass roasted wheat, stewed chicken scribbles, and golden hook buns have become the three signature snacks of Mai Qiu. Mai Qiu's pasta is made with soup fillings and fine craftsmanship, and is famous for its chuanxi bazi.
Crystal clear glass roasted wheat
McChoe anecdotes
In 1956, after the public-private partnership, Mai Qiu expanded its business scale and operated a more abundant variety, in addition to glass roasted wheat, golden hook buns, stewed chicken scribbles, as well as Mai Qiu's earlier hot noodle steamed dumplings, three fungus noodles, three fresh braised noodles, chicken fried noodles and so on. At the same time, taking into account the eating and drinking customs and needs of diners, home-cooked mixed vegetables have been added, and the seasoning method of pepper and hemp with red sauce is cold mixed with hoof flowers and pork, and the finished product is red, green and white, the color and flavor are pleasant, and it is praised by diners as another unique work of Mai Qiu.
After the end of the Cultural Revolution in 1977, with the gradual recovery of Chengdu's famous snacks, Mai Qiu also reappeared in Caoshi Street, and hung up a golden signboard with great spirits, by the famous Sichuan cuisine master, snack master Zhang Zhongyou Gao disciple, and now Chinese Sichuan cuisine famous teacher Professor Tang Hong bai two case master Shu Guozhong chef, the business characteristics are not only fully restored, but also on the basis of traditional characteristics, the introduction of cans of chicken, cans of meat and other flavor snacks. On the basis of glass roasted wheat, Shu Guozhong has developed the Maiqiu series of roasted wheat according to the seasons of the four seasons, such as: jade roasted wheat, Sixi roasted wheat, gold and silver roasted wheat, white jade roasted wheat, three fresh roasted wheat, plum blossom roasted wheat and other flower color varieties, becoming the most abundant variety of roasted wheat in Chengdu and the best flavor quality of the roasted wheat store.
Emerald roasted wheat
The following 1988, blindly pursuing face projects and not hesitating to tear up the city and destroy the city, Mai Qiu left sadly with his golden nameplate, delicious food, elegant culture and attachment to his father and fellow countrymen. His master, Hou Zongrong, also followed Mai Qiu in February 2000 at the age of 84. A generation of noodle pride in Chengdu's catering industry, in a life of brilliant and bumpy intertwined, just like his "glass roasted wheat", open-minded, bright and transparent to the world to dedicate a unique delicacy, creating a food brand that is difficult to follow.
And Shu Guozhong, who is also in touch with Mai Qiu's heart, has followed the wave of reform and opening up and gradually moved towards the glory of food life. He pushed Sichuan cuisine and Chengdu snacks overseas, won the praise of snowflakes, and he himself won the honor of Chinese cooking master and Sichuan snack master. Shu Guozhong, who has now achieved fame, still cares very much for the Sichuan dishes and snacks that he has loved all his life. In addition to writing books and sayings, its popular "Classic Sichuan Snacks" at home and abroad has become a sought-after commodity, and Mr. Shu is also active in the catering jianghu, in the "Today's Headlines Goku Q&A", and personally guides and teaches chefs and Sichuan cuisine fans and cooking housewives facing the whole society in the Chinese Sichuan Cuisine Famous Teacher Professor Hall.
Shu Guozhong among professors
Although Maiqiu is gone as a snack brand, roasted wheat has lost its former glory in Chengdu, but roasted wheat is still vibrant in the folk. Like in Leshan, which is famous for its big Buddha, people affectionately call it "brush handle head", that is, the bamboo brush handle head used to wash pots in the kitchen at home. The most famous are the two shops in Leshan Gangdong East Avenue, Haihuiyuan Yakitori and the neighboring Yakitori.
Leshan roasted wheat has the characteristics of large size, thin skin and rich filling, beautiful shape, meat and vegetarian, salty and fragrant. Its glass is sold because of its thin skin, the translucent shape of the skin after cooking, and its filling can also be seen through the skin. 3.5 yuan one or two 5, a cage has more than 20. Take the hot to eat the most fragrant, a bite down, hot scalding oil bright, skin sticky filling tender, lubricating fragrant juice will be thin burned skin soaked moist smooth, meat aroma and noodle incense immediately rippled between the mouth and tongue. According to the individual taste, you can also accompany the red oil spicy dipping dish or balsamic vinegar saucer, and ask for a bowl of kelp stewed chicken soup for 2.50 yuan. I tasted one or two roasted wheat 5 pieces, a bowl of chicken soup with several pieces of local chicken meat, a total of 6 yuan, really still eat a lot of food, satisfied. In addition to being sold, there are also red oil dumplings, steamed dumplings, and stewed chicken silver noodles that are also famous. These wheat shops have simply become the canteens of leshan citizens, and the business is amazingly good.
Roasted wheat in Leshan, it becomes a 'brush head', big, rich in filling.
Associate Editor of the Editorial Board of Sichuan Province Chronicle of Sichuan Cuisine Professor Tang of China Sichuan Cuisine Famous Teacher
Author of "A Hundred Years of Sichuan Cuisine Legend", "The History of Sichuan Cuisine on the Roadside", and "Three Hundred Years of Spicy Hemp Temptation"
Original Jianghu Gluttony East 2019.10.20 Chengdu