Editor's Note:
With the rapid implementation of the "Ru Porcelain Confidant Ruzhou Waiting for You" city brand that De Anjie participated in planning, Ruzhou City is becoming a name that people often mention when talking about city brands. The azure Ru porcelain is the inheritance of Ruzhou culture and one of the important Chinese symbols. In Ruzhou, Ru porcelain, which has the reputation of "national treasure", is closely related to people's lives. In traditional Chinese culture, the pursuit of gourmet utensils has been around since ancient times. With the strong support of the Cpc Ruzhou Municipal Party Committee, the Ruzhou Municipal People's Government, and the Ruzhou Municipal Bureau of Culture and Tourism, the tourism food book "Awakening Food in Ruzhou" co-curated by De Anjie will meet with readers with the strong support of China Tourism Publishing House. Now, we have serialized some of the stories in the book and started a journey to trace the origins of Ruzhou's gastronomic culture with tourism and food lovers in the form of words. Today, we walked into the three brothers together.
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During the week of this visit in Ruzhou, I met many bosses who made Ruzhou family banquets, some of them hid in small city restaurants, and some of them went in and out of the feast hall. And every time I would ask them for the "authentic menu" of ruzhou family banquets, with a variety of styles and specifications.
In many of the valuable menus I have collected, "mung bean powder skin" always appears in each menu in various beautiful names and different forms.
This makes me wonder what position the mung bean powder skin is in the hearts of Ruzhou people? So I casually asked about Xiaoli, the guide who was driving. Xiao Li replied: "At our daily family banquet in Ruzhou, the pink skin is actually very special, it is dispensable, but without it, it will feel that the whole feast is incomplete." Listening to Xiao li's explanation, mung bean powder skin seems to be a contradiction in the life of Ruzhou people who are "dispensable" but also "indispensable".
So I suddenly did an interesting little survey in the circle of friends, and asked twenty friends of different ages and different professions around me. "What do you think is the 'dispensable' and 'indispensable' existence in your life?"
Got a variety of answers, "Coke", "Money", "Learning", "Love", "Car"... When a friend asked me back, I fell into deep thought.
For me, it may be the bean shreds of my hometown, just like the plate of mung bean powder skin at the Ruzhou people's banquet.
Nature has blessed the wisdom of the people of Ruzhou
In the memory of generations of Ruzhou people for food, there is always the existence of pink skin, in fact, it is not only delicious, but also the condensation and continuation of good years and strong family affection.
The "Compendium of Materia Medica" once recorded: "Mung bean, although the power of reducing swelling and curing acne is the same as that of red beans, the power of pressure heat and detoxification is too great." And it is beneficial to qi, thick stomach, through the meridians, there is no taboo for long to serve the dry people. Surgical treatment of carbuncles, with internal support to protect the heart, extremely effective. With miraculous therapeutic effects, it can "dissolve all poisons of gold stones, arsenic, grass and trees."
Mung bean is a traditional Chinese legume food, containing a variety of vitamins, calcium, phosphorus, iron and other minerals, so it is called "the best in food, the long valley of the world". Because of its rich nutrition, the Chinese ancestors have long used it to make bean wine or wheat, or to make bait and pasta, or sprouts to make dishes.
The wise and intelligent People of Ruzhou never trap themselves in a tedious list of traditions. Twenty years ago, during the 20 years of Qing Daoguang, a dexterous and intelligent Ancestor of Ruzhou accidentally completed the ingenious transformation of this traditional food along the puddles in the streets and alleys of Chengguan.
After more than a hundred years of collision and alternation, Ruzhou people have made sufficient efforts to satisfy the perfection on the tip of the tongue. When I first saw the finished mung bean flour skin packaging, I couldn't associate the hard "plastic sheet" thing in front of me with the delicious taste of the Q-bullet on the table. This made me eager to understand the process of its magical transformation.
The magical transformation of "plastic sheet stuff"
The vehicle passed through the military and civilian street, and Xiao Li said that there was a third brother powder skin factory nearby that we could go to interview. It has been awarded the "Leading Brand in the Powder Skin Industry" by the Propaganda Department of Henan Province, and is also the first agricultural and sideline green food production base in Henan Province that integrates independent research and development, processing and manufacturing mechanization on the basis of inheriting traditional handicrafts.
Coming to the Third Brother Powder Skin Factory, it was different from the mechanical factory with dozens of "tall and mighty" machines I imagined. It is an integrated family workshop based on the production, processing and sales of mung bean flour skin. Boss Guo Yafei sighed helplessly: "Mung bean powder skin is our landmark food in Ruzhou, but because it originally belonged to handmade products, it was made and sold as a family unit, the scale was small and there was no brand influence, in recent years, our factory research to replace the manual with machine is to expand sales and play our Ruzhou powder skin brand." ”
The traditional handmade powder skin production is extremely exquisite, and the old Ruzhou people summed up the twelve characters of "seven points of rotation, eight points of disclosure, nine points of sharing, and ten points of moving", that is, "the gong is fast and slow to see the water temperature, and the side can be lifted; the holes are rounded; the water and oil brush is sunburned to see the clouds". In the end, a unique Ruzhou specialty was developed.
Guo Yafei enthusiastically introduced to me the traditional production process of lao Ruzhou powder skin in my memory.
First of all, we must select the best mung beans to make mung bean starch, soak in warm water (summer for a week, winter for half a month) and then put it into the stone mill, grind it into a white paste, and then put it into the big luo or gauze made of shaking single to filter, precipitate and then filter it with fine luo to make mung bean starch.
The second step is to shake the powder skin, scoop the mixed juice starch into the copper gong spinner floating in the hot pot, hold the gong spin in both hands in the hot water, the starch slowly spreads out in the beautiful rotation, like a round pancake, and like a round full moon, and soon the powder skin will be formed in the copper rotor.
The third step is to remove the powder skin, quickly throw the gong spindron into the water tank next to it to cool, after a short cooling, it reaches into the flooded copper gong spinner, and Li Suo quickly peels up the powder skin and puts it into the clear water basin.
The fourth step is to spread the powder skin, fish out the powder skin and rotate it several times, and then spread it on the greased straw foil to patch up the small loopholes in the powder skin in time.
Finally, it is the drying of the powder skin, a sheet of water spirit of the white round powder skin arranged in an orderly manner lying quietly on the roll foil, and when it is dry, the powder skin is peeled off from the straw foil, and the mung bean powder skin is ready. The powder skin is as thin as a cicada wing and as smooth as jade. The dried powder skin can be stored for a long time and is not easy to deteriorate, and it is convenient to eat, and it is immediately foamed.
Now a group of new Ruzhou entrepreneurs such as Yafei have replaced traditional handicrafts with machines, which not only retains the traditional taste of powder skin but also increases sales a lot. "In the past, manual work could only do more than 100 pounds a day, but now the machine can do 600 to 800 pounds, and the machine can do thinner than manual." Yafei laughed. After saying that, he took out a bag of flour skin that had just been "freshly baked" from the machine and soaked it in warm water of about 40 degrees, and made us a Ruzhou family fast dish on the spot to show the hospitality of Ruzhou people.
The sweet and sour spicy of the "Ice Clear Jade" powder skin
The soaked and soft powder skin is as bright as a window, as clean as white, and the appearance of ice and jade is really unbearable. However, the "greed on the tip of the tongue" of mankind finally defeated the "conscience in the heart" and could only endure the pain of "destroying the flowers with hot hands" and cruelly tearing them into pieces.
Then take out the home-grown cucumbers, carrots, and shallots one after another, cut a knife of fine cucumber shreds and carrot shreds, tear up a few green and oily leeks, and sprinkle a handful of red pepper shreds. Finally, mix with mustard, sesame oil, ginger juice, five-spice powder and other condiments to stir well, and a plate of delicious mung bean powder skin is ready.
Crystal clear pink skin with red carrot shreds, green cucumber shreds, black fungus, golden enoki mushrooms... The sun shines through the dining table, and it is colorful and beautiful. Take a bite and the soft tendons of the powder skin are more moist under the refreshing background of cucumbers and radishes.
The powder skin with the special smell of mustard oil opens the olfactory system and instantly activates more than 100 taste cells sleeping on the tip of the tongue. The mustard gas swayed up the throat, through the nose, through the eyes, straight to the top of the forehead, the whole person involuntarily hit a spirit, "cool"!
Cold mixed powder skin is unique among the many meat dishes of Ruzhou family banquet, unique flavor, elegant and light, eat a bite of meat dishes, with a bite of powder skin, refreshing and sharp, comfortable to the point.
Ruzhou pink skin has become a very distinctive link between Ruzhou people to connect feelings, send thoughts, and pass on friendship. When I left the Third Brother Powder Factory, I couldn't even put down this "dispensable" in Ruzhou, and bought a few packages to comfort the "essential" when I left.
Mung bean powder skin preparation method
Ingredients: Mung bean flour skin, cucumber, carrots, tomatoes and other fresh vegetables (meat lovers can also add chicken, pork and other meat), mustard oil, sesame oil and other ingredients.
Method: When eating, first put the dry powder skin into warm water of about 40 ° for 2 to 3 minutes, until it becomes soft, tear it into pieces, and use beef, sheep, pigs, chickens, ducks, geese and other shredded meat, can be mixed with it to make a cold meat dish; or mix cucumbers, tomatoes, celery and other vegetables, with mustard, sesame sauce, sesame oil and other ingredients, become a cold vegetarian dish.
Features: simple and refreshing, tendons