Seven things to open the door - chai rice oil salt sauce vinegar tea
In the ethnic minority areas of northern Guizhou, Guangxi, the way to drink tea is not just to boil hot water and brew tea. People will use iron pots, wooden hammers and other tea beating tools, while stir-frying tea leaves while pounding out the flavor, after making a tea soup, add rice, peanut rice, green onions and other raw materials to eat together. "Breakfast is a day of might, noon is a trick to work easily, dinner is a clam to dredge the whole body."
Since 2008, the production techniques of Gongcheng Oil Tea, Pingle Water Oil Tea, Guanyang Yao Oil Tea, Longsheng Miao Oil Tea and Dong Oil Tea in Guangxi have been successively selected into the list of intangible cultural heritage at the autonomous region level. Although the techniques of making camellia oleifera vary slightly from region to region, they all have the same mellow taste and rich aroma.
today
Guangxi Intangible Cultural Heritage Cuisine
Let's savor it together
Camellia oleifera
1
Let's start with tea
China is the homeland of tea, and the history of tea culture has a long history. In the Tang Dynasty Lu Yu's "Tea Classic", the origin of tea is attributed to the Shennong clan: "Tea is to drink, and it originates from the Shennong clan." In addition to the "Shennong Theory", there are also "Western Zhou Theory", "Qin Han Theory", "Yunnan Saying", etc., and there are many opinions. There is no doubt that China was the first country in the world to grow and use tea.
Before the Spring and Autumn Period, tea received attention for its medicinal value. During the Qin and Han dynasties, simple processing of tea had begun to appear, and people pounded fresh tea leaves into cakes with wooden sticks and dried them in the sun. In the "Covenant of Servants", the Han Dynasty poet Wang Bao recorded that the household servants were required to undertake the work of buying tea, boiling tea, and washing tea sets. During the Three Kingdoms period, the custom of "replacing wine with tea" appeared. During the Wei and Jin Dynasties, the wind of tea drinking began to prevail. In the Tang Dynasty, special tea cooking utensils have been used, and the choice of tea and water, cooking methods and tea drinking environment have become more and more exquisite, and gradually formed a tea ceremony. In the Song Dynasty, people were keen on fighting tea. It was not until the Ming and Qing dynasties that the brewing tea drinking method we have today was gradually formed.
(Song Dynasty Liu Songnian "Tea Map" part, picture from the Network)
(Famen Temple Museum collects Tang Dynasty gilded red goose pattern silver tea mill, picture from the Internet)
Tea is a messenger of friendly exchanges. As early as the Tang and Song Dynasties, the Han and multi-ethnic areas adopted the form of "tea and horses" for trade exchanges, with the increasing prosperity of economic development, a "Tea Horse Ancient Road" connecting the north and south and continuing to this day came into being, and tea along the "Tea Horse Ancient Road" became a bridge for cultural and economic exchanges between different ethnic groups in the southwest region, and also enhanced the emotional connection between each other.
2
The emergence of camellia oleifera
"Oil tea" is a special way of drinking tea in The Northern Guizhou region and ethnic minorities in Guangxi, which is formed by people relying on the natural and geographical environment of Northern Guizhou for a long time and the thick regional ethnic culture.
However, when oil tea appears and where the custom of beating oil tea originates, these questions have always plagued veteran foodies. Since ethnic minorities such as Dong, Miao, and Yao do not have their own writings, no exact written records have been found so far, and only a clue can be found in ancient books.
Smell that there are Shu concubines in the south who sell tea porridge,
For the curtain to break its apparatus,
Later, it sold cakes in the market.
And forbidden tea porridge to trap Shu Yao, why?
- Fu Xian of the Jin Dynasty, "Si Li Jiao"
The Jin Dynasty Fu Xian's "Si Li Jiao" is the earliest written record of tea porridge found so far, and it is also similar to the drinking method of oil tea with yin rice.
Guang yayun: Jingbajian tea picking for cakes,
Leaf old man cake into rice paste.
To boil tea, first burn red.
Mash the end in the porcelain.
Pour it over with soup.
Use green onions, ginger, and orange pencils.
——Lu Yu's Tea Classic
The tea drinking method mentioned in Lu Yu's "Tea Classic" is roughly the same as the preparation method of oil tea today. It can be inferred from this that camellia oleifera appeared around the end of the Han Dynasty.
The emergence of oil tea was first out of the needs of actual life. Guangxi belongs to the karst landform, the terrain is complex, the climate is humid, before rice becomes a staple food, the ancestors have long eaten grains and meat foods, not easy to digest, and oil tea has played a neutralizing role, both can be full and thirsty, but also refreshing and damp, but also a good adjustment of the digestive system, whenever you go out to work, a bowl of oil tea under the belly, no longer worry about sleepy and hungry, so oil tea is also known as "refreshing soup".
Nowadays, in Guangxi, oil tea is not only a delicacy that guibei people cannot eat three meals a day, but even restaurants and oil tea houses in other regions can experience the strong cultural atmosphere of oil tea.
(Dong girl playing oil tea, picture from the Internet)
3
Play oil tea together
Why is it not called boiling oil tea and brewing oil tea? The reason comes from the preparation method of oil tea.
First of all
Prepare three special production tools: tea pot, tea mallet, tea partition, heat the tea pot and put a small amount of tea oil, then pour the washed tea leaves and ginger slices into the pot, and repeatedly pound and press with the tea mallet to make the juice in the tea leaves completely oozing.
And then
When the tea leaves are slightly browned, add boiling water. (Do not add cold water, otherwise the tea taste will not come out, and the taste of the tea will not be good.) When the water boils up in the pot, you can use the tea partition to filter out the tea residue, and the remaining tea residue is also repeatedly pounded and boiled, and the bowl of fragrant hot oil tea is even finished!
At last
Add the ingredients of camellia oleifera. According to personal preferences, put green onions, salt, peanut rice, rice, ma dan fruit, steamed buns, etc., if you want to drink "meat" oil tea, you can also add pork intestines, pork liver and other side dishes. Foodies who prefer sweetness can also put sugar in oil tea.
(Image from the Internet)
If you are drinking oil tea for the first time and feel that oil tea tastes bitter, you can choose to drink the third oil tea, because "one cup is bitter, two cups are astringent), and three cups are good oil tea". This means that the oil tea that is beaten to the third time will not be so bitter.
Seeing this, can you feel the aroma of oil tea coming from across the screen? So quickly open our hand-drawn cooking cheats today, do it yourself, and "gram" (go) drink a bowl of oil tea!
Source: Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region Museum
Information reprinted: Guangxi Department of Culture and Tourism