Anchor of this issue: Wu Yixin
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▲(Pot side • Lin Jinlin / Photo)
When it comes to breakfast in Fuzhou, people always think of the side of the pot. A roll of thick and mellow pan edges, served with freshly fried hot oil cakes, shrimp crisps, triangle cakes or fritters, makes people feel comfortable.
Every morning at six or seven o'clock, the pot side shops in all corners of Fuzhou are already full, although some pot side shops are noisy, and diners do not care, and their attention is all on taste enjoyment.
Pot side, also known as "Dingbian paste". The big iron pot (ding) is just a tool for cooking food, and the name is very casual, full of the flavor of the lower riba people. Compared with the expensive and rare Buddha jumping wall, the ingredients on the side of the pot are cheap and common, but the process is just as painstaking. The best thing Buddha does by jumping the wall is the chef, and the best person who does the pot side is the villager. Even the pot edges of fuzhou's local breakfast restaurants in the streets and alleys are not as good as the pot carefully prepared by the townspeople. For me, the most authentic pot edge comes from the top edge of the stove of Minhou Shanggan.
From the twelfth day of the first lunar month to the twenty-seventh day of the first lunar month, the 20 Fanglin clan members in 13 villages in Shanggan Taojiang took turns to hold "Pai Yu" activities to pay tribute to the "Righteous Gu" and thank the ancestors. In the village where it is the turn of the "row of clouds", every household burns the firewood in the stove from the morning, and sets up a large boiling pot to give to neighbors and past relatives and friends. The pot must be large, folk called "Ding", and the diameter is as long as the open arms.
To make the pot, you must prepare rice milk, dried scallops, "cooked fish" (steamed and dried Dried Balang fish), dried shrimp, dried squid, small intestines, pork strips, fungus, shiitake mushrooms and other ingredients in advance. People usually soak the rice a day early and put it into the yard to grind the large stones into a fine rice syrup.
When the pot began to be "boiled", people burned the wood in the stove to a red color, and boiled the soup base made of clam meat or water duck mother in dingzhong. The soup does not exceed half of the pot, leaving enough pot edges for the rice milk to hang on the pot.
When the soup is not yet open, first brush some oil on the edge of the large iron ding, scoop up a large bowl of rice milk, and splash it around the edge of the pot, and the rice milk will be "burned" on the edge of the pot. Cover the pot for about half a minute, then shovel the half-cooked rice milk pasted on the edge of the pot into the soup that is being boiled, and several times in a row, when the rice milk in the pot becomes a rolled thin edge of the pot and you can get out of the pot.
The soup has clam meat, dried shrimp, "cooked fish", dried scallops, small intestines and other condiments, seasoned with shrimp oil, and then poured celery, sea oysters, etc. before the pot, the soup is mellow, the whole kitchen is shrouded in a steaming aroma, and the strong shrimp oil smell is still floating away from 100 meters away.
Nowadays, many hotels use salt as a seasoning, and the side of the pot is accompanied by noble ingredients such as mussels and lobsters, which are mellow and delicious, but there is always less of the smell of fireworks boiling in the city.
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Source: Meet Minhou
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