Seeing him rise tall, seeing him collapse: the fate of a restaurant and a dynasty
Text/Lao Zhang is on the road
01
In the seventeenth year of Shaoxing in the Southern Song Dynasty, in 1147 AD, Meng Yuanlao, who crossed the river in the south, wrote the "Tokyo Dream Record".
Elder Meng, date of birth and death unknown, was a native of Kaifeng Province (present-day Kaifeng, Henan) in the Northern Song Dynasty. Meng Yuanlao said in the preface to "Tokyo Dream Record" that he traveled north and south with his father's eunuch since childhood. Emperor Huizong of Song(1103) came to Jingshi and lived in the west of the city, south of the Jinliang Bridge. In the capital, Meng Yuanlao gradually grew up.
At the end of the Northern Song Dynasty, the Jin army marched south and Kaifeng fell. Jing Kang (1126), Emperor Huizong and Emperor Qinzong were taken to the north by the Jin army, and the history is called "the difficulty of Jing Kang".
The following year, Meng Yuanlao left Kaifeng in Tokyo and went south, hiding from Jiangzuo. In the change of Jingkang, most of the people in the Central Plains went south with the imperial court and avoided the two Zhejiang provinces, and the thought of the hometown of the homeland was always haunting their hearts. The Song Dynasty Zhou Xuan's "Qingbo Farewell Zhi" said: "At the beginning of Shaoxing, the old man must talk about the style and things of the Beijing master when he sits idly. ”
During his decades of hiding in Jiangnan, Mr. Meng talked to young people about the prosperity of Tokyo at that time, and young people "often think otherwise." In order to let future generations know the grand situation in Tokyo at that time, Meng Yuanlao recalled the prosperity of Tokyo in a daze and wrote "Tokyo Dream Record".
Meng Yuanlao's self-prologue recounts Tokyo's prosperity in that year: "Just under the hub, the peace is long, and the characters are prosperous. A child with weeping hair, but a habit of encouragement, a white old man, and does not know how to do it. The seasons are different, and each has its own viewing: the lantern night and the moon, the snow flower, the beggar ascends the height, and the teaching pool garden. Look up at the Qinglou Painting Pavilion, Xiuhu Bead Curtain. The carved car races on the Sky Street, the BMW races on the Royal Road, the golden green shines, and Luo Qi is fragrant. Xinsheng smiled skillfully at Liu MoHuaqu and orchestrated it at the tea house liquor store. Eight wilderness contending, all the countries salty, set the treasures of the four seas, all return to the city, the peculiar smell of the Huan District, all in the kitchen. Flowers are full of roads, why limit spring travel, drums and drums, several night feasts? Trickery is amazing, extravagance is the spirit of the elderly. ”
The book "Tokyo Dream" mentions more than half of the more than 100 shops, restaurants and various restaurants. In the city, there are "Bai Alum Lou", "Pan Jia Lou", "Xinle Lou" (i.e. "Ren Dian"), "Yu Xian Zheng Dian", "Zhongshan Zheng Dian", "Gaoyang Zheng Dian", "Qingfeng Lou", "Changqing Lou", "Eight Immortals Lou", "Ban Lou", "Zhang Bajiayuan Zhai ZhengDian", "Wang Jia Zheng Dian", "Li Qijia Zhengdian", "Renhe Zhengdian", "Huixian Lou Zhengdian" and other large high-end restaurants "Seventy-two Households".
Recalling the "White Alum Building", Meng Yuanlao remembered: "Xuanhe room, more three floors high, the fifth floor facing each other, each has a flying bridge railing sill, light and dark communication, beaded curtain embroidery, lights and candles dangling." ”
02
"Fan Lou" was first called "White Alum Lou", also known as "Alum Lou", around the Time of emperor Huizong in the Northern Song Dynasty, and was renamed "Fengle Lou". Volume 8 of the Book of Nengjie says: "There is a restaurant in Jingmingfang outside the Donghua Gate of the Beijing Division, which is called 'Alum Lou'. Or think that the landlord's surname, non-also. The merchant Jia Mane was here, and later became a restaurant. The real name is 'Alum House'. ”
This building was originally named because "alum merchants" came to Beijing to sell alum in this building. Called "white alum building" the average person will not have a misunderstanding, omitted into "alum building", for a long time it is easy to make people mistakenly think that "people with the surname of alum" opened a restaurant, "Hundred Family Names" there is no "alum" surname, so it has been passed down for a long time, people have changed the "alum building" to "Fan Lou". According to the ancients, this is called "mutual conformity".
As the boss of the Jingshi Restaurant, Fan Lou has a prosperous business and is the first choice for the consumption and pleasure of the dignitaries and rich businessmen. Fan Lou became the main place where the Song Dynasty story took place, "Yang Siwen Yanshan Feng Guren", Yang Siwen met the deceased in Tokyo in the Qin Lou in Yanjing, and the Qin Lou was a large restaurant built by the Jin people modeled on Fan Lou, and the bartender here was also hired to live here "Alum Lou oversold". In "Wang Xin One Dies to Save the Whole Family", Song Wujie, who is known for her ability to cook fish soup, originally lived under Fanxia in Beijing, and later came to Hangzhou to carry forward the diet of Beijing.
Even more popular are the following two scripts:
"Fan Lou Amorous Zhou Shengxian"
Zhou Dalang's daughter Zhou Shengxian and Fan Erlang, who sells wine in Fan Lou, met by chance while visiting the Bounty Mingchi. Zhou Shengxian took the initiative to use the way of arguing with the tea house to introduce his own life and situation. Fan Erlang also did the same, so that Zhou Shengxian had an understanding of himself.
After they went home, they fell ill with each other. After that, the mother of Zhou was the master and the queen mother was the matchmaker. Zhou Dalang flatly refused after returning home, and Zhou Shengxian died in one breath. At the time of funeral, all three or five thousand chambers were buried in the tomb. When Zhu Zhen robbed the tomb, Zhou Shengxian was resurrected and asked to take her to see Fan Erlang. Zhou Shengxian did see Fan Erlang, but Fan mistakenly believed that it was a ghost and beat her to death. Fan Erlang was imprisoned for this, and zhou Shengxian's ghost went to meet Fan three more times. Due to zhou shengxian's ghost intercede, Fan Erlang was acquitted and released. Fan Erlang is a person with feelings and righteousness, and every Qingming and October 1, he enters the temple to offer incense and miss Zhou Shengxian. Fan Erlang's character of loyalty to love was passed on, bringing a good reputation to Fan Lou and making Fan Lou's business more prosperous.
The book begins: "Now it is said that there is a restaurant by the Jinming Pond in Tokyo in the year of the Great Song Dynasty, called Fan Lou." ”
Zhou Shengxian turned around: "The girl walked to the Fan Lou Hotel and saw Dr. Jiu greeting him in front of the door." ”
"Zhao Bosheng Tea Shop Meets Renzong"
During the reign of Emperor Renzong of Song, Chengdu Xiucai Zhao Xu went to Beijing. After entering the exam, Zhao Xu felt very good about himself, and the next day he held a tea party with his friends in the tea shop. Between the teas, Zhao Shi was full of interest, took a pen and wrote a poem on the powder wall, there was a sentence cloud: "Foot on the cloud ladder, hand climbing Xian Gui, the name is already in Dengke." ”
Who knew that although Zhao Shi was well literate, the word "wei" in his volume was originally next to "mouth" and next to "writing". Emperor Renzong pointed out to him that Zhao Xu refused to admit his mistake and argued that "all words can be used", which made Emperor Renzong unhappy. Zhao Shi returned to the guest house and talked about this matter with his friends, and everyone was shocked. So he invited him to the tea house and sipped tea to relieve his boredom. Zhao Shi also wrote another inscription, and there was a sentence cloud: "The word 'only' was once poor, the name of the merit landed, and the heavenly public mistook my life aspirations." ”
Later, the gold list came out, and sure enough, there was no name for Zhao Xu. Zhao Shi returned to his hometown in shame and fled to the Beijing Master. A year later, at three o'clock in the night, Renzong dreamed of a golden armor god man, riding a taiping car, carrying nine red suns, until the inner court. The next morning, Emperor Renzong asked the eunuch Si Tiantai Miao, "What is the evil of this dream?" The Miao eunuch said, "This nine-day person is a Xu character, or a personal name, or a state." ”
The Miao eunuchs and the emperor disguised themselves as white-clad xiushi and privately conducted street markets and secretly inspected them. The two of them walked to Zhuangyuanfang and saw a tea shop. Renzong said, "You can have a cup of tea." The two people sat down at the tea shop, and suddenly saw that above the white wall, there were two words, the sentences were clear, the calligraphy and painting were strong, and then they wrote "Jinli Xiucai Zhao Xuzuo". Emperor Renzong was shocked, "Could it be that this person is?" The Miao eunuch asked who had written the words on the wall of Dr. Cha, and Dr. Cha said, "This lyricist, he is a talent who cannot be the first, and he is ashamed to return to his hometown and wander here." Renzong then remembered that Zhao Xu only did not use it because of a word error. He asked Dr. Tea to find Zhao Xu, and Zhao Xu saw that someone was looking for him and hurried into the tea house. After meeting the ceremony, he sat on the shoulder of the Miao eunuch, and the three of them ate tea. In the small talk, Emperor Renzong saw that Zhao Xu had lofty ambitions and outstanding literary talents, and was very appreciative. Soon after, Zhao Xu was appointed as the envoy of Sichuan.
In this story, Fan Lou attracted the emperor with its magnificent architecture and won the emperor's admiration.
"Out of the gate, go straight to the Royal Street and parade in various alleys. And half a day, see the restaurant, good not high! It is the famous Fan Lou. There is a "Crane Pigeon Day" as evidence:
The restaurant in the city is high in the sky, and the cooking dragon boils the phoenix flavor and is fatty. Gongsun got off his horse and smelled drunk, and he did not hesitate to spend ten thousand dollars to drink. Recruit distinguished guests, attract high sages, and sing and line the orchestra upstairs. All kinds of beautiful things are precious and shy, and the four railings are painted with eaves. ”
03
In addition to the fictional literary form of the script, which uses Fan Lou as the background of the story, there are also many records of Fan Lou in the real historical materials.
Wen Ying's "Xiangshan Yelu" volume "Tribute to the Japanese State Ku ti hang" article said that during the period of the Great Zhongxiang Fu, the Japanese tribute "Buddha's light" and song Zhenzong returned the temple, and the Japanese emissary suddenly asked for another temple record before leaving. The True Patriarch ordered the Hanlin Scholars to write the Holy Will. Who knew that the level of this bachelor was not high, and he usually let the subordinate minor official Zhang Junfang ghostwrite it. This time the task was urgent, but the bachelor could not find Zhang Junfang everywhere, and he was anxious to scratch his ears and scratch his cheeks. At this time, Zhang Junfang was "drunk in Fan Lou and sent people all over the capital to find it." The Japanese emissaries had no choice but to "stand still." Later, two high-ranking officials discussed this matter when adapting the "Idle Order", laughingly saying that Zhang Junfang was the busiest person in the world.
In the Song Dynasty Wang Mingqing's "Miscellaneous Records of Qingqing", a true story that occurred in Fan Lou is also recorded.
One night, a Fujian scholar surnamed Li who was studying in Beijing brought a few friends to FanLou to drink. Drinking until the second half of the night, Fan Lou was about to close, and this Li surnamed Shizi suddenly remembered that drinking tea in the tea shop next to Fan Lou during the day fell a bag of gold. He remembered that when he was drinking tea, he put the bag of gold on the table, because his friend beckoned him to "go to Fan Lou to drink", and he was in a hurry and forgot to take it away. But at this time it was late at night, and Shizi surnamed Li thought to himself, "If the people in the tea shop are weaving, they must not be investigated", the gold must be taken away and cannot be found, "so I will not ask more."
After a few years, Li Shizi revisited Tokyo, and then went to the tea shop next to Fan Lou with his friends to drink tea, remembered the past, and could not help but sigh to his friends: "In the past, here, I lost a bag of gold, and I said that I was too embarrassed to go home, and now I am lucky to be able to recover here." Hearing this, the owner of the tea shop came over and asked, "What did the officials say?" A scholar surnamed Li said, "Three or four years ago, I once ate tea at a grand feast and left behind a bag of gold, but when I was pulled by a friend, I did not pay homage." The owner of the tea shop asked again, what clothes were the officials wearing at that time, and which table was sitting on? Li shizi told them one by one.
After listening, the owner of the tea shop said: The baggage you left behind, I also found it at that time, and also asked someone to return the baggage to you, but you were in a hurry, and the crowd was unrecognizable, so you had to keep the baggage temporarily, only that you would come to get it the next day, and did not want to pass three or four years in a flash. I have never opened your baggage, I feel very heavy, I think it should be yellow and white. And you tell me about the number and weight of the gold in it, and if it matches, I'll take it back to you.
The owner of the tea shop immediately took a ladder and climbed to a small shed in the tea shop, and Li Shizi also followed him upstairs, only to see that there were many items lost under the guests in the shed, and each item was labeled, indicating "the person left behind by a certain person of a certain color on a certain day in a certain month of a certain year." There is a small baggage in the corner of the building, "the seal is as it was", which is left by Li Shizi, and a label is also attached to it: "A certain year, month, and day, left by an official." ”
Down the shed, the owner of the tea shop asked the number and weight of the gold blocks in the baggage, Li surnamed Shizi said that there were several pieces of gold, a number of two, the owner of the tea shop opened the bag to check, and sure enough, one by one. He returned all the gold to Shizi surnamed Li. The scholar surnamed Li wanted to give him half of it, but he resolutely refused to accept it, saying, "If I see that Li li forgets righteousness and hides without telling him, what will happen to the officials?" Nor can it be added by official law. I often do this because I am afraid that I will be ashamed of it. The scholar surnamed Li wanted to invite him to Fan Lou to drink again, and "he also insisted on not resigning."
This story of gold collecting in the Song Dynasty shows how long-standing the excellent virtues of the Chinese nation are.
04
Compared with the fanlou story recorded earlier, there are also many stories in "Water Margin" that use Fan lou as a scene.
In the seventh episode of "The Flower Monk Pulls Out the Willow upside down, the leopard's head mistakenly enters the White Tiger Hall", Gao Yanei's men, in order to let Gao Yunei get Lin Chong's wife, come up with the idea to let Lu Qian trick Lin Chong into going to Fan Lou to drink:
Lin Chong and Lu Qian came out of the house and walked idly on the street. Lu Yu waited, "Brother, we will go to the house and only eat two cups in the Fan Building." "At that time, the two went up to the Fan Building, occupied a cabinet, called the bartender to pay, and asked for two bottles of good wine, Xiqi Fruit Case Wine.
It was precisely because Lu Qian delayed Lin Chong's time on the Fan Building that Lin Niangzi was deceived by Gao Yannei and others, and Lin Chong's life also underwent tremendous changes since then.
The seventy-second time "Chai Jin Hairpin Flowers Enter the Forbidden Garden, Li Kui Yuan Night In Tokyo", Song Jiang and others came to Fan Lou to watch the lanterns and drink during the Lantern Festival, and experienced the bustle and prosperity of Tokyo:
I was beating from Fan Huan in front of me, and I could hear the upstairs sounding, the drums were noisy, the lights were staring, and the tourists were like ants. Song Jiang and Chai Jin also went up to fan lou, found a cabinet to sit down, took some wine, food and food, and also enjoyed the lights and drank upstairs. I couldn't eat a few cups, but I could only hear someone in the cabinet next door, and someone sang: "The arrogance is soaring through the bull, and the hero's cause has not been paid." Holding a three-foot Dragon Spring Sword, he will not swear to commit adultery and evil! Song Jiang listened, and when he hurried to come to see, it was the Nine-Striped Dragon Shi Jin who did not cover Mu Hong, and he was very drunk in the cabinet and spoke wildly.
Fan Lou has become a gathering place for good men in the rivers and lakes.
05
Where is the real Fan Lou in Kaifeng? Volume 8 of Li Lian's "Bijing Ruins Chronicle" says that this building, along with high-end restaurants such as Pan Lou and Xinle Lou, is in "Tushizi Street". According to the specific orientation described in Volume 1 of the Tokyo Dream Record, this street is southeast of the Imperial City, and Panlou is further east. Wu Zeng's "Records of the Transformation of the Zhai Dynasty" Volume 8 is more specific, saying that this building is outside the Donghua Gate east of the Imperial City.
Mr. Zhou Baozhu, an expert in Kaifeng city history, attached to his book "Studies on Tokyo in the Song Dynasty", "The Map of Tokyo in the Northern Song Dynasty" clearly shows the specific location of Fan Lou: Jingmingfang outside donghuamen. This orientation is roughly in the area of today's Kaifeng West ShedBan Street, and there is still a distance from the antique building Alum Tower on the Songdu Royal Street that now stands in the center of Kaifeng.
The time of the first construction of the Fan Building is not clearly stated in the history books. What is certain is that song taizu, the founding emperor of the Song Dynasty, passed by Fan Lou when he was touring the Yuan Festival and stopped here to watch the acrobatics. The Song Dynasty official revision archive "Huijiao" completely records the process of Song Taizu's tour of the Great Xiangguo Temple on the fourteenth day of the first month of the seventh year of Kaibao (974), and explicitly mentions that he was "watching acrobatics in Baifan Lou". According to this official record, Fanlou existed as early as 974 and is a lively place in Tokyo.
Dignitaries and nobles and sons and daughters of the jianghu came and went in Fan Lou, and what made Fan Lou more famous in later generations was that Emperor Daojun of song Huizong also had a relationship with Fan Lou.
In the large restaurants of the Northern Song Dynasty tokyo, there are professional singers and dancers, and the geisha of Fan Lou are even more beautiful and famous in the world. Among the many geisha, the most famous is Master Li.
The "Tokyo Dream Record" lists the Qunfang spectrum of the capital city at the end of the Northern Song Dynasty, of which Li Shishi ranked first. The story of her and Song Huizong drinking and having fun in Fan Lou has always been talked about by people. Song Dynasty poet Liu Ziyi Poetry Day:
Liang Guo sang and danced in a full stream, and the wine was like a knife to break the sorrow.
Remembering the joy of the teenager, the lights went up to the Fan Building in the middle of the night.
Volume 14 of the Compilation of Anecdotes of the Song People quotes the Lotus Of Green Mud: Song Huizong often went to Li Shishi, and Li Shishi's husband Jia Yi was jealous and wrote a poem "Nanxiangzi": "Walking in front of the small building, I saw a beautiful person who looked like a fairy." Secretly thinking of holy feelings like dreams, chasing joy, holding Lan Fang's mercy. One night of saying the word of the covenant, full of heavy sandalwood spray smoke. Report early and return late, return to Luang, leaving the fish as accommodation money. ”
So ironic to the emperor of the dynasty, that is, did not want to live, fortunately, Emperor Huizong probably looked at the face of the beauty, but only demoted Jia Yi to Hainan Island to suffer.
In the sixth year of Xuanhe (1124), Emperor Huizong registered Li Shishi as Li Mingfei and renamed the Golden Line Lane where Li Shishi was located as Xiaoyu Street. The "Testament of Xuanhe" records: "Fan Lou is a different name for Fengle Lou, with a throne on it, and when Emperor Huizong feasted and drank with his teacher, Shimin Ken did not dare to climb the building." ”
Moreover, there are also historical records that Emperor Huizong specially built an underground passage leading to Fan Lou in the imperial palace in order to meet with Li Shishi, and the scale of the project would not be too small.
06
The wind is always blown away by the rain and the wind.
Five hundred years later, Chen Weisong, who was praised by Wu Weiye as "Jiang Zuo Sanfeng" by Wu Weiye together with Wu Zhaoqian and Peng Shidu, passed through Li Shishi Lane in Bieliang City, with infinite feelings, and composed a poem:
It is the old ruins of Tokyo, the desert, the rain.
Zhao Song was prosperous, Fan Lou laughed, and was always blown by the wind.
Miserable, the remaining hook bar is in, and the green window has hung the moon as a rule.
Today's decadent ruined well, the dance hall of the year.
Master, Snow Beauty Jade for muscle.
When playing with the moon flowers.
The king of the night is lucky, the orange is dark, and the greasy bamboo shoots are sneaking.
Who knows, behind the small screen, there is Zhou Lang singing the broken intestine word in a low voice.
A generation of spring delicacies is lonely, and the night fire in the half-city is uneven.
Fan Building, which represents the prosperity of Tokyo. In the Jingkang Rebellion at the end of the Northern Song Dynasty, it was unfortunately destroyed by war, ending its glorious history of more than a hundred years.
In the early years of the Southern Song Dynasty, the Song dynasty monarchs in the southeast of An'an coveted pleasure, "directly made Hangzhou a state of Bizhou", came to Hangzhou and built a Fengle Building on the shore of Xizi Lake, thousands of miles away from Tokyo. This building is magnificent and magnificent, "the upper extension of the wind and the moon, the lower part of the hustle and bustle, so it is the strength of the West Lake", named Fengle Lou, and Fengle Lou is the official name of Fan Lou in the late Northern Song Dynasty.
The Southern Song Dynasty court was in a corner of gou'an and did not actively restore its homeland. The poet Liu Kezhuang wrote a poem sighing:
After the split of my life, I did not travel to the old Beijing.
Empty as Fan Lou dreams, An Zhi is in the Yue Lou.
Fan Lou has gone away with the Tokyo Dream, extended to future generations, the literati use Fan Lou to refer to the restaurant, and the poems written by Fan Lou are no longer real.
Fang Hui, a literary scholar at the turn of the Song and Yuan Dynasties, said in the poem: "In previous years, the lights were drunk in Fan Lou, and the moon fell and blew the flute without giving up. Yao Yunwen Ziyun: "Loose chasing the young day, Du Qu Fan Lou, fighting to buy gold to hate." The Yuan Dynasty literary scholar Huang Huan also has a verse of "Spring Wind Fan Lou drunk, a smile of a hundred Hu Zhu".
The name of a restaurant evolved into a synonym for an industry.
Now, if you travel to Kaifeng, at the northern end of the Royal Street of kaifeng Songdu, you can see a Fan Lou, which is a group of courtyard-style imitation Song buildings based on the Fan Lou in the "Tokyo Dream Hualu" and completed in 1989 according to the architectural style of the Song Dynasty's "Building French Style".
In fact, in the Song Dynasty, there were two Fan Buildings, in addition to this Fan Lou, there was also a Ghost Fan Lou. Lu You said in his "Notes on the Old Scholar's Nunnery": The sewers in the capital are extremely deep and wide, and many outlaws are hiding in it, so this sewer is also called "Worry-free Cave", and the business in the sewers is also very developed, the most important thing is that some people have started a women's business, because it is in the dark underground, and the Fan Lou in Mingli is interesting, so it is called "Ghost Fan Lou".
(The picture is a network profile)