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Find the food culture of cakes and cakes in the Republic of China

author:Great Song Style
Find the food culture of cakes and cakes in the Republic of China

Under the influence of humanistic thought in the early years of the Republic of China, all kinds of snacks in various places have developed greatly. For example, various pastries such as biscuits and bread in Shanghai Guansheng Garden, midpoint Western-made and some traditional snacks in Daoxiang Village in Beijing gradually converged to form the culture of pastry and snacks in the Republic of China period. Here are some of the more famous pastry and snack brands from the Republic of China period, you can see if you have heard of: Beijing's "Daoxiangchun", Taiyuan's "Laoxiangcun" and "Double Synthesis", Tianjin's "Gui Shunzhai" and Jiangsu and Zhejiang's "Guanshengyuan" and "Wufangzhai", all of which are well-known brands. At that time, the quality of food was much better than now, and it was really necessary to go back to that era, and it was still a small amount to eat a pound.

In the Republic of China period, the north liked to call pastries "dim sum", saying that the starting point was the most classic of the Beijing school, and the most widely circulated "Beijing Eight Pieces" symbolized the identity of the rich in the Republic of China, and the red and white puff pastry was the old taste that the old Beijingers could not forget.

The "Little Eight Pieces" of The Dim Sum Box in Beiping contains the Bad Zi Cake (see Liang Shiqiu's "Manchu Details": "The Little Eight Pieces are nothing more than chicken fat cakes, rolled crisps, mung bean cakes, and bad things"). There is great hope that Kyojin will find it. Sure enough, Tianjin's long-established Gui Shunzhai is for sale. According to Tu Suoji, I found this branch in The West Flower Market of Chongwenmen in Beijing.

The varieties of Republic of China cakes can be roughly divided into five categories: hard crust, fried, puff pastry, cake and sugar crust. Among them, there are dozens of fine pastries, such as milk skin cakes, dried vegetable mooncakes, sage horses, honey cakes, peach crisps, yellow shortbread mooncakes, etc., and the sesame seeds used must be peeled before they can be used.

Find the food culture of cakes and cakes in the Republic of China

When General Zhang Xueliang lived in Beijing, he often sent his aide-de-camp to the old cake shop to order rose cakes. Rose cake is a traditional pastry in old Beijing, also known as "Inner House Rose Fire Cake", which has become a fine point of the court in the early Qing Dynasty. The difference in this cake is the sugar filling made of rose petals.

Mr. Mei Lanfang, a famous Peking opera artist, loves to eat The chicken fat cake of Beiping the most, and the patrons in the flag also love to buy cream sachima, dried almond food, flavored mooncakes, honey cakes and so on.

Honey cake is made of white noodles, eggs, sugar, honey, plum, osmanthus and melon seeds, after cakeming, cake filling, baking, cooling and other processes refined, has the effect of nourishing the body, clearing the fire and moisturizing the intestines.

"Qing Barnyard Banknotes" records: Beiping has a kind of shops that specialize in old-style dim sum like Lan Yingzhai and Liuhua Zhai, and it is said that these shops have gone through vicissitudes for a long time, from the Yuan to the Ming and Qing dynasties, along with several generations, and the dismal operation is left over.

It is proved that there was chicken cake as early as the Heavenly Dynasty, but at that time, it was not called chicken cake but trough cake. Because the eggs were originally beaten well, poured in a rectangular wooden trough and steamed, until steamed and then cut into strips and pieces, the earliest was the royal suburban blessing sacrifice.

Find the food culture of cakes and cakes in the Republic of China

The "Ancient and Modern Talks on The Business of the Alley" also specifically mentions a kind of dim sum called "Rose White Sugar Lunjiao Cake".

Lunjiao cake first appeared in Lunjiao Town, Shunde, Guangdong Province, in the Ming Dynasty, and is a kind of muffin made of fine rice noodles and white sugar as the main ingredients. To make Lunjiao cakes, rice syrup made by grinding rice noodles soaked for more than 3 hours is pressed into a thousand powders. The unique spring water of Lunjiao Town is boiled in a pot with granulated sugar, slowly flushed into the rice noodles, and then added to the "cake seeds" (like yeast) to cool, and then left for seven or eight hours to ferment the rice milk.

Add a small amount of lard to the rice milk before steaming. Lunjiao cake is known for its crystal white, soft and smooth, smooth as a mirror, the cake body horizontal and vertical small blisters like holes are uniform and orderly, the cake body is full of toughness, and there is no folding when bending.

The taste of Lunjiao cake is sweet and slightly sour, and the teeth and cheeks are fragrant, no wonder Mr. Lu Xun has such a deep impression on it.

The cakes of the Republic of China are mainly divided into 12 factions, such as the Beijing school, the Jin school, the Su school, the Guang school, the Chao school, the Ning school, the Shanghai school, the Sichuan school, the Yang school, the Dian school, and the Min school.

Including north China, represented by the Beijing region. With a long history, a wide range of categories, different tastes, heavy oil, light sugar, crisp and soft, pure and sweet taste, traceable - Xu Xiaochun teacher:

Cake snacks: such as mustard cake, osmanthus cake, mung bean cake, Hechuan peach slices, etc.;

Fried dim sum: such as anchovy crisp, plum blossom crisp, longan crisp, dragon phoenix cake, hemp cake, peach crisp, crystal dumplings, etc.;

Fried pots of snacks: such as rice candy, silk candy, white hibiscus crisp, hibiscus cake, sachima, etc.;

Miscellaneous sugars: such as peanut candy, peanut sticky, fish skin peanuts and so on.

Pastry: peach crisp, puff pastry, cake crisp, tea puff pastry and so on.

Find the food culture of cakes and cakes in the Republic of China

Nanpai Cake Snack:

Including almond pastry, horseshoe puff pastry, pork loin cake, box cake, yuanbao cake, salty light cake, victory cake, grape cake, Mid-Autumn Festival cake, crystal cake, pillow cake, Liao boy cake, barrel cake, cut cake, peanut cake, bean paste cake, white convex cake, green onion cake, twist fried, mung bean cake, ma pod, chicken cake, etc. Among them, cut cakes, shallot cakes, etc. are the traditional famous spots in Fuzhou.

In 1947's "Xiamen Grand View", mung bean cake from Haiji in Tudui Lane, horseshoe cake from Shuanghu on Zhonghua Road, ice cream cake with railway head, Yilan on Datong Road, Yihuaxing on Zhongshan Road, and Huang Ruihua Cake House on Siming South Road were all on the list.

Among them, the "Huang Ruihua" cake family gift cake at No. 496 Siming South Road, its salty cake, peanut cake, sweet cake, orange red cake, ice cream cake, etc., covered most of the varieties of traditional pastries in Xiamen and Rong at that time. Mr. Ip Ming Fu collected several "Huang Ruihua" cake prints.

Ice pine hawthorn cake, lard fruit cake, sandwich cake, date mud hemp cake, pine nut pancake, Western cake, flavored pine apricot crisp, wheat bottom ru crisp, Taishi palace cake, osmanthus peel sugar, dragon phoenix cake, rose pine candy..." In the advertisement of a food store on Zhongshan Road in 1935 collected by Mr. Hong Buren, there are more than 20 kinds of cakes and candies.

During the Republic of China period, Changsha's rice cakes were more famous and popular than they are now.

There are more than 10 varieties of flowers and colors such as eight treasures, lotus paste, lard, osmanthus flowers, roses, and jujube mud. Among them, the most famous is the food workshop in Xinghua Village. Later, new varieties of ham, sausage, preserved fruit, seafood and other new varieties were added. The cake is white in color, soft and smooth, delicate and oily, sticky and fragrant, sweet and mellow, fried, grilled, soup boiled, suitable for all ages.

Find the food culture of cakes and cakes in the Republic of China

Nanjing's special pastries also have many, such as plum blossom cake, tea cake, osmanthus cake, mille-feuille cake, etc., but here is not seen, only a thousand-layer oil cake, which is a famous traditional snack in Yangzhou, according to the introduction of this pastry is 64 layers thick, soft and sweet to eat.

Red bean cake, yellow pine cake and other four-season cake balls, soon became famous in Shanghai, the four seasons cake balls also became the favorite pastry of Shanghainese during the Republic of China period, and became an essential pastry for Shanghainese to celebrate festivals, weddings or birthdays at that time. Later, in the Pastry Industry of Shanghai during the Republic of China period, there were Yangzhou Jade Roasted Wheat, Huaiyang Soup Buns, Huangqiao Roast Cakes, Guangdong Wonton, etc., plus the local raw fried steamed buns, rib rice cakes, spring rolls, etc. in Shanghai at that time, and There were thousands of kinds of pastries in Shanghai during the Republic of China period.

The Cakes of The Republic of China in Northern Jiangsu and Central China include:

Three knives, croissant honey, small Beijing dates, grasshopper legs, bean skin, burning flowers, hemp cakes, etc. are all ordinary pastries. Fine pastries include inch gold, hemp slices, baked cakes, bee cakes, cloud slices, hawthorn cakes, skin sugar, cakes, chicken bone candy, Jing honey and so on.

In addition, there are some seasonal pastries: shortbread, papaya cake, mung bean cake, moon cake, etc. There are also gifts for sacrifice, commonly known as "honey offerings". Honey offerings are a variety of people and things made from white sugar.

Northern Peking Cake:

During the Republic of China period, warlords and politicians such as Yuan Shikai, Cao Feng, Wu Peifu, and Zhang Zuolin also liked to eat zhengmingzhai cakes. In 1914 and 1915, the store's account books also recorded that Yuan Shikai's debts had not been repaid. Famous Peking opera actors such as Hao Shouchen also frequented. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, Chongyi praised Zhengmingzhai as one of the three famous rao shops in Beijing in the "Miscellaneous Records of the Dynasty and the Wild Since the Daocheng".

When General Zhang Xueliang lived in Beijing, he often sent his aide-de-camp to Zhengmingzhai to order rose cakes. Rose cake is a traditional pastry in old Beijing, also known as "Inner House Rose Fire Cake", which has become a fine point of the court in the early Qing Dynasty. The difference in this cake is the sugar filling made of rose petals. Mr. Hao Shouchen, a master of Peking Opera, loves to eat the chicken fat cake of Zhengmingzhai the most, and the patrons in The Banner also love to buy creamy sachima, dried almond food, flavored mooncakes, honey cakes and so on.

Zhengmingzhai is most famous for its Manchurian feast, the Saqi horse.

Masterpieces of Northern Dim Sum of the Republic of China:

Meat muffins, apple crisps, pine nut corn cake, meat rolls, matcha crisp, taro crisp, mung bean paste, mung bean convex, pineapple crisp, bean paste;

Apricot cake, golden pig cake, lotus paste, black double hemp cake, white double linen cake, butter pudding cake, wumei crisp, date paste, date flower crisp, sweet potato crisp, almond crisp, flower rose cake, honey three knives;

Mung bean cake, red bean cake, mung bean cake, fruit roll, sage horse, taro roll, Napoleon cake, walnut steak, green tea crisp, coconut butter crisp, multigrain shortbread, sandwich crisp, lotus puff pastry, bagel cake;

Osmanthus pot stove, butter date cake, hemp crisp, sandwich cake, Yuanyuan cake, Tongbao cake, taro cake, date paste, hawthorn shortbread, Longfu cake, pea crisp, etc.

Find the food culture of cakes and cakes in the Republic of China

Celebrities of the Republic of China like cakes:

Lu Xun: Visiting delicious restaurants in Beijing, I love dim sum Sachima the most.

Zhang Daqian: The cooking skills are more on Danqing, the mouth is heavy and spicy and mellow, and I love plum blossom cake.

Yu Youren: The food "Grass Sage", has written plaques for countless restaurants and restaurants, and loves twist flowers.

Zhang Xueliang: A lifetime of wandering, the taste is often changing, Liao cuisine, Sichuan cuisine, Guizhou cuisine, Hunan cuisine, seafood, love Sachima.

Mei Lanfang: The taste is both north and south, mainly Huaiyang cuisine, and the hobby is Beijing eight pieces.

Hu Shi: I love the taste of Huizhou the most when I go all over the world, and I love to eat vine cakes.

Zhang Ailing: Use vegetables to describe women, love to eat butterfly crisp.

Yu Dafu: Alcoholics and loves to eat, Lu Xun's wine friends, love Fujian snacks, seafood, love to eat Fujian gift cake.

Wang Shixiang: The elder of the Republic of China cuisine, can play and eat, loves to eat Dingsheng cake.

Tan Yanmin: "A tumbler in the political arena of the Republic of China", he created a new look of modern Hunan cuisine and loves to eat mooncakes.

Sun Yat-sen: Loved to eat walnut crisp.

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