The first time I went to Lijiang, it was very long ago, or before Lijiang was listed as a World Cultural Heritage. That summer, the rain was continuous, and in my memory, there was no rainy season for three consecutive months of drizzle, light rain, moderate rain, heavy rain, heavy rain, and the sun was stingy to the point of a minute of light that was unwilling to give alms.
At that time, the plan was a ring line, from Xiaguan to Binchuan across the Jinsha River to Yongsheng, from Yongsheng to Ninglang, Ninglang to Lugu Lake Liushui Village at the junction of Sichuan and Yunnan, and then back to Ninglang to Lijiang, and then back to Xiaguan via Baihanchang. The whole journey is a long-distance passenger bus, which is spent almost every day on the winding mountain road, except for the national highway paved with asphalt, many roads are made of logs to build simple bridges to cope with the roadbed washed by flash floods.
The impression of Lijiang is only slippery cobblestone roads, obscure streets, and like most later tourists, it is only "passing" Lijiang, imagining "distant poetry" in their minds.
▲Lijiang Ancient City [Source Network]
To be honest, I didn't even imagine, for a few days in the Lugu Lake farmhouse, I was worried about whether the mudslide would wash away the road, and every night I fought hard with flea mosquitoes, except for bacon potatoes can "eat chaff vegetables" has been a luxury - the village can not grow vegetables. The county seat of Ninglang is slightly better, and there is only one guest house where you can take a bath.
Lijiang is the station of the special district office, although from the current point of view, it is still a backward county, and many people have not yet become accustomed to traffic lights, and they can already feel the prosperity when they come out of the mountains of Ninglang. Later, when it comes to Lugu Lake and Lijiang, it can really be said that the world has changed, because I have seen the suffering of the old times, even if some ancient traditions have disappeared, I am still sincerely happy for the local area, and the well-off can be expected.
Going back more than fifty years, Mr. Construction Society's journey to Lijiang was even more arduous. In the 21st year of the Republic of China (1932), Yunnan Province planned to build a highway from Dali County to Lijiang County, until the 26th year of the Republic of China (1937), only to build more than 70 kilometers of dirt roads from Dali County to Niujie Street in Eryuan County. We see the following record in Mr. Liu's diary of the twenty-seventh year of the Republic of China (1938):
"Sunday, December 4, sunny. Leave Dali at 9:30 a.m. by slider. In addition to Chen (Mingda) and Mo (Zongjiang), Wu Yuming (archaeologist of the Central Institute of History and Languages) Jun also went to Lijiang. ......
"Monday, December 5, sunny. At 8:03 a.m., I came out of the West Gate of Deng Chuan. ......
"Tuesday, December 6, sunny. 8:40 a.m. separates Cow Street,......
"Wednesday, December 7, sunny. Departs at 8:30 a.m. Go north along the highway and enter the south gate of Jianchuan County for ten kilometers. ......
"Thursday, December 8, sunny. Depart at 8:00 a.m. ...... Ten kilometers to Lijiang County, Yulongchang Hotel. ...... Since the north of Shangguan, the soil quality has gradually changed, and the crops are also easy to rice as wheat, and the difference between language and human race is particularly serious, and it is suspected that this area in the early Tang Dynasty did not belong to the Nanzhao range.
Mr. Liu stayed in Lijiang for several days to investigate ancient wooden buildings such as the Conversion Hall, Liu Li Hall, Baoji Palace, Dading Pavilion, Beiyue Temple, and other ancient wooden buildings, as well as residences and tombs.
This is the first time that The historical sites of Lijiang have entered the field of modern scholars, laying the foundation for the protection of cultural relics in Lijiang after liberation, and it is also one of the necessary conditions for Lijiang to be designated as a "National Historical and Cultural City" and listed as a "World Cultural Heritage".
Mr. Liu photographed and mapped the monuments, and many of them can still be seen. The gold-plated wood carving "Emperor Shi Brahma Heavenly Buddha Diagram" exhibited by the Yunnan Provincial Museum was donated by The MuLan, the prefect of Lijiang in the seventh year of Ming Chenghua (1471), and was originally converted to the Hall of Refuge in Guanyuan Lane in Lijiang City. The Liuli Hall, Baoji Palace, Dading Pavilion, etc. are still on the original site.
▲Mural painting of Baoji Palace [Photo: Barbarian Book]
Interestingly, cultural relics such as the Liuli Hall and the Baoji Palace are slightly unpopular in Lijiang's various scenic spots. Indeed, some people have been stranded in Lijiang for several years, have not seen two Ming Dynasty wooden structures, and are not far from the city and have convenient transportation, which seems to have failed to live up to the painstaking efforts of Mr. Liu and other sages to sort out the country's history and preserve culture.
However, everyone has their own preferences, "my honey, the other arsenic", there is no reason to ask tourists to visit here; not to mention that more people are not conducive to the preservation of monuments.
I am more curious whether Xu Xiake in the last years of the Ming Dynasty had seen the murals in the Liuli Hall, Baoji Palace, Dajue Palace and other places. The mural paintings of the Liuli Hall were first painted during the Yongle period, and Xu Xiake is also regarded as a monument of the "beginning of the country". The murals of Baoji Palace and Dajue Palace were first painted during the Wanli period and should still be new.
Not long ago, re-reading the "Travels of Xu Xiake", from the sixth and seventh texts of the Yunnan Travels, Xu Xiake mostly passed through the white sand and did not enter.
On the twenty-fifth day of the first month of the twelfth year of Chongzhen (February 27, 1639), Xu Xiake arrived in Lijiang. He first lived in the house of Tongshi (surname and surname, concurrently Tongshi), and crossed the Shu River and Baisha to Jielin (Fukukoku-ji Temple) on the 29th day of the first month (March 3).
On the eighth day of february (March 12), Xu Xiake returned to Lijiang to live in he and tongshi. Later, he went to the Mu family courtyard to tutor the fourth son of Toshi Muzenyuki. On February 11 (March 15), Xu Xiake was gifted out of Lijiang.
Xu Xiake's activities in Lijiang are monitored and restricted. Although Mu Zeng treated him with courtesy, it also prevented him from traveling into the Zhongdian Tibetan area. At that time, the officials selected by the imperial court, such as Tong'an Prefecture Zhizhou, did not actually arrive in Lijiang.
Now Lijiang Sanyi Airport to Lijiang downtown halfway, there is a place name "Guanpo", the Ming Dynasty toast set up "Qiutang Pass", for Lijiang "South Gate", foreigners regardless of officials, people, to enter the customs need to get permission from the toast; and toast is not happy to see outsiders enter its jurisdiction, like an "independent kingdom"
——The "ancient kingdom of Naxi" that was imagined by later generations and never existed in history is probably rooted in this period.
In the third year of Tianding (1253), the Mongol army invaded Yunnan for the second time. At that time, the Moshu leader Ah Chun A liang, who was operating in northwestern Yunnan, defected to the Mongols, provided intelligence, and went south with his army. After that, A-chun A-liang, A-ā-a-hu, A-hu-a-a-, A-a-A-a-, A-A-a-, A
In the fifteenth year of Hongwu (1382), the Ming army entered Yunnan, Ajia Ade led the troops to surrender first, Zhu Yuanzhang gave the surname Mu, and Ajia Ade changed his name to "Mude", thus beginning the glory of Lijiang Mu's toast. The Mu toast that Xu Xiake saw was Mu Zeng, the last hereditary prefect of Lijiang in the Ming Dynasty.
▲Facsimile of the mural painting of Baoji Palace [Photo: Barbarian Book]
In the sixteenth year of Shunzhi (1660), Mu Yi, the son of Mu Zeng, "scrambled to surrender" ("Mu Clan Eunuch Genealogy"),became the first hereditary prefect of Lijiang in the Qing Dynasty. In the first year of Yongzheng (1723), the peasants of Lijiang sued the toast for illegality, and asked to send officials (governance), and the imperial court took advantage of the situation to demote the last hereditary prefect Mu De as a general judge, and Lijiang changed the land and returned to the stream.
In the third year of Yongzheng (1725), qi min was organized and the capital city was added. More than 400 years of Lijiang Mushi Toast Era is gone - the rebuilt "Tusi Mansion" now does not exist in the middle and late Qing Dynasty; the so-called Lijiang never built a city wall, which is also a legend.
The traces of Mu's toast in Lijiang were not completely erased during the Qing Dynasty. The Guangbi Building in Yuquan Park (Black Dragon Pond) is the Library Building of the Tusi Prefecture Bureau, which was built during the Ming Dynasty and moved to its current location in 1985.
Yuquan Park is a magical place in Lijiang. The original core of the park was the Dragon Shrine on the west bank of the Black Dragon Pond, built during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty. After liberation, it was opened as a people's park and gradually expanded in scale, and many ancient buildings were moved from the outskirts of Lijiang.
In 1960, the "Yiwen Pavilion" and "Suocui Bridge" in the old site of Tusifu were moved to Heilongtan.
▲Yiwen pavilion [Photo: Barbarian Book]
In 1963, the Qianwen Temple's Lingxing Gate (Civilization Square) was located in Black Dragon Pond and used as the gate of Yuquan Park.
In 1967, the stone lion of Qianzhongyifang was in front of the park gate (Civilization Square).
In 1974, the main hall of Fukukokuji Temple, Fayun Pavilion (commonly known as "Wufeng Building"), was located in the park.
▲WufengLou [Photo: Barbarian Book]
In 1976, the mountain gate of Wenfeng Temple was moved in front of the Wufeng Tower in the park. In 1983, the mountain gate of Fukukokuji Temple was moved to the park, but it was slightly far from the Wufeng Tower.
The park's famous landscape, the Deyue Tower, was rebuilt in 1963 after it was destroyed by fire in 1961. The whole park is nothing less than a traditional architectural expo in Lijiang, although it is the work of Ming, Qing and contemporary carpenters, it is more a recreation of gardeners.
The Lijiang Museum is also located in The Black Dragon Pond Park. Among the cultural relics in the collection, two of the most interesting ones are witnessed by lijiang and yunnan. One of them is the ancient Tibetan stele excavated from Gezi Village, which can be called "Longlata Shinto Stele" according to Chinese customs, and the Chinese translation of Mr. Basang Wangdui is:
"The dragon Rata of the Tsorong land, who was originally a subject of han, could not be worshipped as the eternal lord, so he devoted himself to the son of Zampu and surrendered to the command of Zangjiezang. Po Ci Zang Mang was given a large amount of gold, and Long Lata was awarded the post of Zang Chin. The tomb of the ninety years and the end of the year also. ”
In the seventh century, Tibet rose on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. At the height of its power, the southern boundary of Tubo was already to the northern part of the Erhai River Valley, and it contained part of the land that originally belonged to the Governor of Yao Prefecture in the Tang Dynasty. In 680, Lijiang and other places entered the country. However, lijiang is northeast of the Tang Dynasty, northwest of Tubo, and south is the gradually flourishing Nanzhao, which is bound to become a battlefield for three parties to compete.
▲ Longlata Shinto Monument (Tubo) [Photo: Barbarian Book]
In 794, as one of the achievements of the Tang and Nanzhao alliances, Nanzhao Yimu attacked tubo Shenchuan and took Lijiang and other places, and Lijiang has since become a part of Yunnan. Judging from the content of the inscription, the tribal leader Long lata, who lived in the present-day village of Gezi, lived from the end of the seventh century to the early middle of the eighth century, that is, during the "Bao" period.
Another is a tower brick with a Chinese character inscription. In the seventh year of Daolong (1244), the Liangzhou Hui League had not yet been held, and a Mongol army broke through the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau into Yunnan without passing through Sichuan. Gao Jichenghe, Gao Fushan, Yang Zhiming, and others fought at The Jiuhe River in Lijiang and martyred the country loyally.
The Lijiang Museum exhibits the remnants of the pagoda "Chasing the City of Gao And the Martyrdom of the Country...", witnessing the last years of Dali.
According to the Records of the Song Dynasty, after the Battle of the Nine Rivers, the Song and Li sides sought an alliance against the Mongols. But the general situation has been determined, and it is limited to ancient communication conditions, such an alliance is of little significance.
In the third year of Tianding (1253), the Mongols made a comeback, and Yunnan became a place under the rule of the Mongol Empire. Two years after the fall of Dali, the Luodian tribe, sandwiched between song and Li, reported to the Song court the news of the large-scale Mongol attack and the danger of Yunnan.
During the War of 1253, the Moshu chieftain Ah Chun Ah Liang may have played a key role, and Ah Chun Ah Liang and his descendants have since become the largest hereditary lords in Lijiang and northwestern Yunnan. By the late Ming Dynasty, hundreds of years of accumulation, its rich luxury had been noticed.
Xu Xiake said that the Mu mansion was "the beauty of the palace, intended to be the king", because he did not have the opportunity to enter the mu mansion, and most of this praise came from the recounting of the tongshi.
Mu's toast has been married to Heqing, Yongbei, Yao'an and other places for generations, thus establishing an entangled network of relationships, and its influence extends to Yuchuan and Kang. Under the jurisdiction of The Toast, which produces silver, copper, salt and other minerals, it is one of the main economic sources of Mu's Toast.
Most importantly, Lijiang is located at the junction of Sichuan, Yunnan and Tibet, and the trade between Yunnan, Tibet and western Sichuan is controlled by Mu's Toast, which can bring a lot of profits to Toast.
▲ The Elderly Association talked about "Wenchang Emperor Jun Yin Qiwen" [Photo: Barbarian Book]
The beauty of the wooden house was once there, and we didn't have the opportunity to see it. However, the surviving Ming Dynasty buildings and ancillary murals in Lijiang are related to the Mu clan, and to be precise, the benefactors of these relics are toastmasters or their relatives.
Therefore, it is still possible to learn about the real Mu's toast with the help of cultural relics. Tourists have arrived in Lijiang, instead of listening to unreliable rumors and "thinking about the year" in the newly built antique buildings, why stop at the past and see the original Lijiang after the glitz has dissipated.