Chen Chuxin: Jingbian "Wife Chops Buckwheat Noodles"

Buckwheat in northern Shaanxi is the most important.

Once the "autumn wind" of the year passes, when other field crops, miya grain, begin to try out the sickle, or pinch the ear, or harvest, the buckwheat flowers that spread throughout the mountains are full of flowers, and only then are they blooming, and there is a domineering spirit of "the group of fangs falling alone". Red stalk pink leaf white bud, quiet as a carpet, colorful; or there is an autumn wind disturbed, with the slope of the beam, there is really a goddess holding silk with a colorful vertigo, in the blue sky and golden autumn shadow background, the skirt flying belt fluttering, neon clothes excited.

Buckwheat noodles are hard and sticky, and are generally eaten with dumplings and more birds. The advantages are thick noodles, thick noodles, and bites. Disadvantages, difficult to overcome and not easy to digest. And the "chopping soba noodles" of the Jingbian Nanshan people just make up for this deficiency. Supplemented by a unique air-dried lamb bun, which was originally an ordinary food made of coarse grains, it eventually became a unique delicacy. It's both nutritious and green.

Jingbian "chop soba noodles" emphasizes a "chop" word, that is, using a knife instead of pinching, or the pressure of the bird bed. Therefore, this "knife" should be sharp and open-minded, and the work on the "knife" should be both vigorous and ingenious.

The knife that chops the soba noodles is different from the usual single handle of cutting, which is a unilateral sharp blade knife with two ends, five feet long, and three or five inches wide. When chopping, place the dumplings into thin surfaces, stack them in layers, and place them neatly on the board. At this time, the two hands put the knife, the cutting blade to the surface, the knife edge is slightly sideways, although the cut is like chopping, downward force, while cutting and kicking, wide and precise, generally leek leaves are appropriate. When chopping, the eyes, spirit, and wrist strength should be highly concentrated, and the so-called "ten thousand thoughts are accurately gathered for a while". The noodles chopped out in this way are fine, even, evacuated, not tangled when the pot is not knotted, the soup is refreshing and sharp; when entering, it is not sticky and non-sticky, and soft and delicate.

Eating in northern Shaanxi has always paid attention to "oil soba noodles, vinegar bean noodles". It means that the bean noodles are thin and have a light taste. Soba noodles are thick in quality, are hard food, and advocate more greasy to eat. The meat is still fresh in the greasy, and the lamb is fresh in the meat, to what extent? Dried and dried to remove fishy, it can be eaten raw. Therefore, Jingbian chopped soba noodles, a rare product, is to put the air-dried lamb into the cheek, so that "the soup fat meat fresh noodles are smooth", constituting its exquisite characteristics of "nothing in the world, only this one".

Of course, before serving the noodles, the enthusiastic shop will present a medium plate in front, with a green and green variegated inside, all the onions, garlic and sesame spices, sweet, salty, sour and spicy, and list them. As for the way to eat, first fill the meat, then fish the noodles into the bowl, and eat it continuously. Steaming hot, sesame oil spicy water, meat flavor noodles in the chewing fine pharynx, feel the aromatic taste, intestinal comfort and stomach, tongue raw ambergris, teeth seeped musk.

At the end of the last century, I was fortunate to know this delicacy because I had been in a stable and quiet way for many years.

I remember that when I first entered Jingjing, students were introduced to try "chopped soba noodles". Once you eat it, you will taste it, record the number, and seven bowls have been there, leaving the name of "gluttony". On a more occasion, I went to Qingyang Fork to run errands, and on the way back, I had to meet the "wife chopping soba noodles" in Qiaogou Bay. Three pounds of lamb stew are served. After a while, the steaming chopped buckwheat noodle table, because it could not withstand the temptation of fragrant soup noodles, five bowls into the stomach in one breath, even friends stood up and were shocked, and are still famous as "Zhangjiapan". It is said that "the record is still there" and no one can break it.

Fortunately, this spring, the affairs office Hengshan stopped by the Jingbian to revisit. Liu Hong, a student, managed the meal and knowingly asked "what the teacher wants to eat the most" and "Can you chop soba noodles, can you still eat it?" Wife's shop is still open? On, the daughter and son-in-law took over. The wife only supervises. ”

The familiar storefront pulled a seat, and I asked Liu Hong: My seven bowls that year, and then someone had to break the record? Liu Hong blurted out "no", but urgently changed his mouth, alas- less mention of that file in the future. Although I have a little face, it is a little embarrassing to think of the students' big belly as teachers, and the unseemly embarrassment in the eyes of the world. As a result, the teacher and student tasted in the hot and fragrant "chopped soba noodles", eating, talking, when the fourth bowl was eaten, Liu Hong put the bowl on hold and waited for the teacher to taste the food, he knew that I still had a while to put the bowl. When the seventh bowl record was broken, the boss asked Liu Hong, is it enough? Liu Hong said, no matter what, you go up first. As for me, whether I can get on or not, I just eat, eat and then fish in pots and bowls. According to a basin of two bowls of noodles, I ate the ninth bowl, Liu Hong saw that my chopstick handle was clenched, there was no willingness to loosen at all, and hurriedly greeted the boss lady, alas, ——, so bottom view, hurry up, not enough at all. No way, the hostess smiled and brought a large bowl with a trembling face. Slowly swinging to the table, the lady boss stood next to it, looking like a storefront, specifically watching how I "pocketed" eleven bowls of chopped soba noodles. Liu Hong was also nervous and suspicious, "Teacher, don't be busy, eat slowly!"

Of course, I understand the minds of these people who have never seen the world, still holding their chopsticks tightly, enthusiastically, concentrating on their hands and mouths, the key is the joy on their faces, and they enjoy the rare food and pleasure with great effort.

After checkout, the boss lady's frightened eyes did not slow down, and she politely let Liu Hongdao and Director Liu come again. I said, can I still come? The hostess cleverly said, of course, Director Liu's guests are the most welcome. In the evening dinner, Li Yan, Zhihe, Shi Xiang, Zi guo and friends of the students gathered together. The funny Shi Xiang took the initiative to ask Liu Hong what Teacher Chen ate at noon. Chop soba noodles, Liu Hong said. As soon as Shi Xiang heard about chopping soba noodles, he immediately spoke with momentum, how many bowls of chopped soba noodles are there? Liu Hong hurriedly squeaked, no need to ask, much less than the last time. As soon as Shi Xiang listened, his interest dropped and he introduced other topics.

I have encountered a lot of people, although, mainly thanks to the "wife chopping soba noodles", finely done, the tune is in place. At that time, the wife set 50 years of skill and experience, first in the red township, and then in the red county. Fourteen years ago, he was included in CCTV's "Chinese Cuisine" program, which can be described as a "famous and global" figure. Explain what? I am still a bit talented at food.