Headline number signed author: Pu Tieniu
During the Xianping period of emperor Zhenzong of the Northern Song Dynasty, the Chuanxia Road located in the present-day Sichuan Basin was divided into Yizhou Road, Zizhou Road, Lizhou Road and Kuizhou Road, collectively known as "Chuanxia Four Roads" or "Sichuan Road", later referred to as "Sichuan", from which Sichuan got its name. In the first year of the Republic of China (1912), the establishment of the provincial level was abolished and replaced by a provincial directly administered province, prefecture, department, and county, and the provincial capital was located in Chengdu Province. On September 1, the 17th year of the Republic of China (1928), Chengdu became the capital of Sichuan Province.
On November 7, 1928, the 17th year of the Republic of China (1928), the Nanjing National Government abolished the Provisional Committee of Sichuan Province, and set up the Sichuan Provincial Government Committee, with 4 departments under it, including Civil Affairs and Finance, and Liu Wenhui was the first provincial chairman of Sichuan Province. In November 1934, Liu Xiang went to Nanjing to meet Chiang Kai-shek. Jiang and Liu used each other to reach conditions for cooperation. In December 1934, Chiang Kai-shek announced the reorganization of the Sichuan Provincial Government, appointing Liu Xiang as chairman of Sichuan Province and director of the Chuankang Appeasement Office. He also authorized Liu Xiang to revoke the "defense zones" of various warlords, unify the command of the Sichuan army, and unify the military and government of Sichuan. Liu Xiang was allocated 5 million yuan of funds for "suppressing Chi" and approved Liu Xiang to issue 70 million yuan of "Sichuan Aftermath Public Bonds". Liu Xiang agreed to open the Sichuan Gateway and allow the "staff group" of the military commissar of the Central Army and the Nationalist Government to lead the "Einsatzgruppen" into Sichuan. Chiang Kai-shek's dream of recovering Sichuan for many years was realized.
Chengdu in the 1930s
In 1935, Liu Xiang began to unify Sichuan's administration, finances, and military administration. In order to speed up the pace of Sichuan's reunification, the primary task in promoting the "centralization" of the localities is to break down the defensive zones and break away from the local political power. As chairman, Liu Xiang took the lead in breaking the defensive zone system, separating the military and the people from the two governments, and separating the warlords from the local political power, thus depriving the warlords of the foundation for survival and opening up a path for sichuan political reform.
Subsequently, Liu Xiang unified the currency system and reformed the field endowment. The unification of the currency system ended the chaotic opening of banks by various warlords in Sichuan's history, which was conducive to the future economic development of Sichuan. After changing the land allowance to one levy per year, adopting a one-tax system, and abolishing all kinds of harsh taxes and miscellaneous taxes, the people of Sichuan have become increasingly stable.
In the 26th year of the Republic of China (1937), the Outbreak of the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression in China, all kinds of industrial and mining enterprises, colleges and universities and cultural groups along the river along the coast of China moved inwards to Sichuan, and Chengdu became the rear of China. For example, the Central Army Officer School (Whampoa Military Academy) was moved to Chengdu In 1937, and did not change the school site for 11 years until the Kuomintang defeated and withdrew from the mainland, except for the short training class, 10 students graduated from Chengdu.
Couple lung tablets
For example, Nanjing Jinling University, Jinling Women's College of Arts and Sciences, Shandong Qilu University, Nanjing Central University School of Medicine and Department of Animal Husbandry and Veterinary Medicine were moved to Chengdu Huaxiba around 1938, which was known as the "paradise" of the rear area, the School of Medicine of the University of Hong Kong was also moved to Chengdu Zhengfu Street during the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression, and Shanghai Guanghua University moved to Waixi Guanghua Village, becoming the predecessor of the current Southwest University of Finance and Economics.
The influx of a large number of students has driven consumption and brought a number of employment opportunities to the people of Chengdu. Around the major schools, various shops have sprung up like mushrooms and are thriving again and again.
Despite this, in fact, most of the students at that time were not rich, could not afford to consume big fish and meat, and only had the ability to enjoy some simple, fast and inexpensive snacks, so cheap brine and cold mixed vegetables became the most popular foods at that time. Guo Chaohua and Zhang Tianzheng opened a small stall at that time, because of limited funds, there was no money to buy goods, and they usually only sold some cold mixed side dishes. One day Guo Chaohua passed through the back alley of a large restaurant, saw some animal offal such as beef offal lung slices were thrown away, he felt very sorry, so he rummaged through the pile of offal piles, selected some that he thought he could still eat, cleaned up and cooked on the pot, at first tasteless, and then used his own recipe for cold mix side dishes, and according to the characteristics of offal ingredients, after repeated trials, he finally concocted a dish with beautiful color, tender and fresh taste, spicy and fragrant, soft and smooth, crisp and soft.
Calligrapher Zhao Yunyu inscription
After the official launch of this dish, it was cheap, tasted good and was quite popular. Because they work together and use ingredients that are the scraps of the beef shop, people began to call this dish "husband and wife waste slices". However, the couple felt that the word "waste" in the "waste film" was not good, and considering that there were beef lung tablets in the dish, they changed the name to "husband and wife lung tablets". As a result, the husband and wife lung slices appeared on the stage of Sichuan cuisine.
Later, the Guo couple found that the taste of the beef lung was not good, so they cancelled the beef lung, and used the cow scalp, beef heart, beef tongue, tripe, beef as the main ingredients, brine, and then sliced, and then with chili oil, pepper noodles and other accessories made of red oil poured on it, its production is more refined. Soon, couple lung slices stood out among the many brine dishes. The Guo couple also earned their first pot of gold with this dish.
After making a small profit, the Guo couple abandoned the stall and opened a shop in Chengdu Banbianqiao for sale, the name of the store was officially named "Husband and Wife Lung Tablet", the plaque was a gold character black background, and it was personally inscribed by the calligrapher Zhao Yunyu. After several changes, the store moved to The Governor's West Street on downtown Street, expanded the scale of operations, and added varieties such as beef noodles, so that diners can not only taste lung slices, but also noodles to fill their hunger. Since then, the husband and wife lung slices have won a place in Sichuan cuisine, and have sung all the way, running from the streets and alleys to the Daya Hall, rising from street food to world famous dishes. In May 2017, GQ magazine released the latest "America 2017 Dining List" released by catering master Brett Martinin, and the signature cold dish "Couple Lung Tablets" of PepperTwins Double Pepper Sichuan Restaurant in Houston topped the list and was selected as "Appetizer of the Year". The English name of the dish is translated as "Mr and Mrs Smith."
Pot helmet filling lung slices
However, couple lung slices do not have lung slices, just like fish fragrant meat shreds without fish, always make people feel that it does not live up to the name. The famous dishes that are really made with lungs are the fried lungs in Tibet and the noodle lungs in Xinjiang.
Both fried lungs and facial lungs originated from the irrigation lungs of the Song Dynasty. In the Song Dynasty's elaborate "Wulin Past Affairs Workshop", it is mentioned that there is a kind of food called "lung irrigation", and the commentators say: Lung irrigation is a famous dish in Tokyo (now Kaifeng), and in the Southern Song Dynasty Lin'an (now Hangzhou) market, there are "Fragrant Hong Lung" and "Spicy Lung" and other products. It is made with pig or sheep lung and infused with walnut, pine nut, almond and other ingredients.
The "Record of Mengliang" written by Wu Zimu in the Song Dynasty also records "lung irrigation" in many places. Its "meat vegetarian from the food shop" said: and along the door song called cooked food: meat, hot duck, goose, cooked sheep, chicken and duck and other categories, and sheep blood, lung irrigation, powder, ketou, YingQian city food, on the door to sell, can respond to the needs of the pawn. Its "bunk seat" says: cooked meat in front of Shouci Palace, fish soup for Song Wujie outside the Qiantang Gate, and lung irrigation in The Golden Gate. Its "night market" said: There are also stretchers selling spicy can lungs, spicy vegetarian powder soup, bacon, fine powder head, ginger shrimp, sea stings, clear juice field snail soup, sheep's blood soup, mustache, sea stings, snails, noodles, etc., each with a cry.
Tibet fried lungs
The above writings prove that lung irrigation was a famous food in the Song Dynasty, especially in Kaifeng, the capital of the Northern Song Dynasty, and Hangzhou, the capital of the Southern Song Dynasty, which was more popular. In the Yuan Dynasty, the charm of lung irrigation remained undiminished. In the Yuan Dynasty Ku Sihui's "Drinking and Eating Is About to Juzhen Strange Food", there is a method of lung irrigation: one sheep lung, six pounds of leeks to take the juice, two pounds of noodles to beat the paste, half a pound of ghee, two or two peppers, ginger juice two, mixed with salt, boiled with lungs, and poured with juice.
A little later in the book "Complete Collection of Things That Must Be Used at Home" is more clear: "The lungs of the sheep are carried with a body, and washed clean like jade leaves." Use ginger six two, take the natural juice, if not, replace it with dried ginger; hemp puree (sesame paste), almond (almond puree) a total of one lamp; white noodles three two, bean flour two two, cooked oil two two, one mix well, into salt, gravy, see the size of the lungs, fill and cook. ”
In the Ming Dynasty, the irrigation of the lungs began to decline, but there are still people who vaguely remember that the "Compendium of Materia Medica" of the Ming Dynasty has such a record: use a sheep lung, wash it, and use almonds, persimmon cream, real bean powder, real crisp one or two each, white honey two two, and evenly fill the lungs, white water to cook it.
So far, the standard of living has been very different from ancient times, and now many people think that the lungs of animals are extremely unhygienic, most of them dare not eat, so the irrigation of lungs can not keep up with the pace of life, almost submerged, fortunately, there are Tibetans in Tibet and Uyghurs in Xinjiang to retain and improve this process.
Sour and spicy noodle lungs
The production method of Tibetan "fried lungs" first blows the lungs, blows from the throat with fresh pig lungs or sheep lungs, blows with the hands while blowing, so that it expands, and then adjusts the appropriate amount of salt, grass fruit powder, chili noodles and garlic puree with warm boiled water into a milky shape, and uses a spoon to pour into the lungs from the throat, while irrigating, shaking, blowing, while patting, it takes about 5-6 times to fill it. After filling, tie the throat pipe with twine, hang it high in the fire pond and dry, after 2-3 months, cook and fry first, add coriander, sesame oil (or cooked vegetable oil), soy sauce, vinegar, green onion and ginger. Its characteristics are light brown in color, crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, delicious in taste, and not greasy in food. Fried enemies can be stored for a long time.
Uyghurs call "lung irrigation" "face lung." When the family slaughters sheep during the New Year's Festival, the sheep lungs are left as "face lungs". The preparation method is roughly as follows: repeatedly pour water into the sheep lung to wash away the blood stains, and then add the powder noodles (starch made from potatoes) to the chopped onion, salt and an appropriate amount of vegetable oil to make a thin paste, and then pour it into the lungs of the sheep from the trachea, and beat it while irrigating, so that it is filled, and then tighten the tracheal orifice with a rope, put the lungs into the pot, cook with the lamb pieces, cook it and cut it into pieces, dip vinegar, paprika and garlic paste and other condiments to eat. Its taste is salty and soft, and the flavor is very unique.
Spicy noodle lungs
Because the ingredients used in the couple's lung slices do not have real lungs, there is no comparison with the irrigation lungs. Whether it is a husband and wife lung slice or a lung irrigation, it is the condensation of the wisdom of the working people's life. If you have to divide the taste of a win or a loss, for me personally, the taste of Hunan and Sichuan is relatively close, I am a Hunan person, so I prefer the husband and wife lung slices without lungs.
In fact, as far as the practice of pig lung is concerned, today I would like to strongly recommend spicy fried pork lung to you. The pig lungs are repeatedly filled with water, while irrigating while patting, until washed white, and then change the knife to slice the cold water under the pot blanched water, fished up and put into the water and rubbed, the water becomes turbid and then changed the water until washed, this process needs to change the water about seven or eight times. Then put it in the pot and fry the water dry, add oil, ginger slices, star anise, cinnamon to fry the lung slices until golden brown, then add dried green and red peppers, citrus leaves, salt, cooking wine, chicken essence, etc. and stir-fry, and finally put the garlic seedlings and fry until they are broken. This should be enjoyed while it is hot, at this moment, if there is a farmer's own rice wine to accompany, even if the sky falls, it is still necessary to chew a lung slice, and then squint your eyes and swallow a mouthful of rice wine.
If you don't believe me, you can try it.
Spicy stir-fried pork lung
All the pictures in this article come from the Internet, if there is infringement, please contact to delete.
Resources:
"Old Photos: Sichuan under Liu Xiang, Life in Chengdu in the 1930s"
Source: Old Shadow Court
"Mr. and Mrs. Smith in Sichuan Cuisine - Husband and Wife Lung Tablets"
Source: Fun Look at History
"The food "lung filling" recorded in ancient books, where can you eat it now? 》
Source: Gossip Masterpieces