As the saying goes, "the northern people like noodles, the southern people like rice", noodles are "powder food", and rice is "grain food". Among the grains, wheat is a latecomer, and the cultivation history is relatively short, at most 4,000 years old. At the beginning, wheat was also a grain food, because at that time there were only pestles ("broken wood for pestles, digging for mortars") and grinding rods, which could not be processed into powder, and could only be eaten in the form of "grain food" or "half grain food", called "wheat rice", which was a crude food at that time. Yan Shigu's ancient note: "Wheat rice and bean soup are the ears of savage farmers." "Later, with the advent of iron tools, people invented stone grinding (without iron can not be ground), can grind wheat into flour, we now often eat these noodle foods have appeared one after another. Volume 860 of the Taiping Imperial Records quotes the Book of Continuation: "The Ling Emperor is good at Hu Cake, and all The Beijing Masters eat Hu Cake." It can be seen that at the end of the Eastern Han Dynasty, Hu Cake was quite popular in Luoyang. In ancient times, cake was the general name for all "powder food", and Liu Xi of the Eastern Han Dynasty "Interpretation of the Name • Interpretation of Diet": "Cake, and also, the rice noodles make the merge also." Song Huang Chaoying's "Miscellaneous Records of Jing Kang Xiangsu": "Whoever uses noodles as a food utensil is called a cake." Therefore, those who eat on fire are called burned bread; those who eat with water are called soup cakes; those who eat steamed in cages are called steamed cakes. "The bread is called hu cake, just like sesame seeds called flax, cucumbers called courgettes, and walnuts called walnuts, indicating that they were imported from the western regions. So what kind of bread is a mustache? Volume 860 of the Taiping Imperial Records quotes the Zhao Lu: "Shi Le was secretive about Hu, and Hu Wu was renamed. Hu Cake is known as Bo Furnace, and Shi Hu is changed to Hemp Cake. It can be seen from this sentence that first, the pepper cake is related to sesame seeds, and the verse in Tang Baijuyi's "Sending Hu Cake and Yang Wanzhou" also proves this point by the poem "Flax cake is like learning Kyoto, and the crispy oil is newly baked". Second, the production method of Hu Cake is related to the furnace, and the Tang legend "Biography of Ren": "There is a hut of Hu Ren's bread next to the door, and a square lamp-burning furnace." Zheng Zi sat under his curtain and waited for the drum. ”
Naan
When making hu cakes, you must first heat the stove and then bake the hu cakes on the stove wall (if the temperature is low, it will fall off), which is the same as the practice of roasting bread in Xinjiang today with a naan pit.
After the word "hu cake" disappeared, "burnt cake" became a general term for baked noodle cakes. Northern Wei Jia Sixun's "Qi Min Zhi Shu • Cake Method": "The method of making baked cakes: one bucket of noodles, two pounds of lamb, one combination of green onions and white, soy sauce and salt, boiled to cook." Hot, face should be ordered. Pulp Cake Method: With pulp fat, honey, and harmony noodles. Four or five minutes thick, six or seven inches wide. Cook in the hearth of the bearded bread. Don't repeat it. The cake is fat and can last a long time. "At that time, the baked cake was stuffed and should be placed on a pot or tweezer to turn over and over (huangxian dialect called "refining") cooked, a bit like the current pie, and the marrow cake, that is, the modified hu cake, was baked on the stove wall and could not be flipped, which was the main difference between the two. Qing Li Dou's "Yangzhou Painting Record • Caohe Record": "Shuanghonglou baked cake, before opening the atmosphere, there are sugar filling, meat filling, dried vegetable filling, amaranth filling. "Qing Dynasty baked cakes are still stuffed.
Straw stove baked cake
In modern times, the types of burnt cakes are more diverse, Jiangsu's grass stove baked cakes are first used with wheat grass or straw to heat the hearth, until the open fire is burned out, and then paste the cake blanks on the furnace wall, so it is called "grass stove baked cakes".
Hanging oven baked cake
Shandong and other places of the hanging furnace baked cake is also very famous, hanging furnace has two kinds, one is with a twisted chain can be twisted, the Qing Dynasty folk artist painting manuscript "Beijing Life Color Map" has a "hanging furnace burnt cake map", the above interpretation text said: "Its people use a clay stove, burn wood inside, iron chains hang between the beams, make a baked cake with white noodles, dip sesame seeds, put in the iron plate of the clay stove to cook in a little moment, the name of the hanging furnace burnt cake." ”
One is to use two cast iron pots to buckle up and down, the upper pot is cut open, easy to pick into the hand, the bottom of the pot paste is a thick layer of clay, and the bottom of the pot is placed with fruit charcoal. Freshly baked oven burnt bread is brown and fragrant, and the lamb soup is a perfect match. Another way to eat it is to cut the roast cake while hot and add the marinated beef, which is a bit similar to the meat sandwich steamed bun.
Horseshoe baked cake
Horseshoe cakes are also baked in the hanging oven, because of the shape of horseshoes, so named, the method is to squeeze the cake blank with the tiger mouth of both hands to form a horseshoe shape, and then attached to the furnace wall. Its skin is thin and hollow, and the old Beijinger's breakfast is to use horseshoe baked cake sandwich charring rings or thin crisp, row forks to eat, there is oil and noodles.
Zhoucun baked cake
Zibo's Zhoucun baked cake takes a different route, about 12 grams of small noodles are dipped in peeled sesame seeds, kneaded on the panel thoroughly, only a thin layer, put on the back of the hand to the hearth wall, baked out of the baked cake crisp, fragrant, thin, crisp, bite a full house of incense.
Crab shell yellow
Suzhou's crab shell yellow with dough wrapped in oil crisp and repeatedly rolled, the filling has fresh meat, meat floss, plum vegetables, leeks, bean paste, date paste, lard sugar and other kinds, equivalent to a small pie, but not burned, is baked on the wall of the stove, baked layer by layer, shaped like crab shell, color like crab shell red, so got its name.
Yellow Bridge Baked Cake
Taizhou's Huangqiao baked cake method is similar to crab shell yellow, there are also salty and sweet two flavors, but one is named after its color, one is named after the region, one is in southern Jiangsu, one is in northern Jiangsu, both are the same source of hemp crispy flatbread, crab shell yellow is obviously a little later, in order to adapt to the fine life of southern Jiangsu, it is also a little more miniaturized.
Grilled cake with sesame sauce
The mochi sauce pancake is made of sesame sauce and pretzels instead of oil crisp, and the baked cakes are both crispy and have a rich sesame sauce aroma.
Toads spit honey
Chengsha baked cake is filled with filtered fine bean paste, because of its thin skin and more filling, after baking the crack exposed filling, it is also known as "toad spitting honey". Some of these various kinds of burnt cakes are filled or not, and they are not uniform, but they are all baked on the hearth wall, which is a modern remnant of the hu cake method.
In the northern region, there is also a type called "fire-burning", which is fried or burned.
The rags burned
The traditional cuisine of old Beijing is boiled and grilled, wrapped in rolled dough and fried in a pan, which is actually similar to a pot sticker.
Donkey meat is grilled
Hebei's donkey meat fire is referred to as "donkey fire", made of rolling up the dough skin with oil crisp, Baoding fire is round, the fire between the rivers is rectangular, baked and cut with a knife, and the boiled donkey meat is sandwiched inside.
Meat sandwich buns
Shaanxi's meat sandwich steamed bun, using Baiji steamed bun, is actually a kind of noodle fire, steamed bun is the Shaanxi people's general term for a variety of noodle foods. Regarding the origin of the name of the fire, according to the "Chronicle of Xuye County", "fire burning, that is, fire food also." Gein along the street sellers shouted 'fire food', so along the 'food' and 'wow' sound to change into 'fire', and because the fire is cooked and eaten, the burning word is also meaningful. Originally, fire was first called fire food, that is, "fire and eater", and some places in the north still call fire fire "fire food". In The Huangxian dialect, the "burning" of "burning" gently rhymes, "ao" is pronounced as "ou", "grape", "cherry", "know", "lively" are all pronounced in this way. Huangxian people do fire, is to mix a large amount of dry flour in the hair noodles, called "boiled noodles", the performance of the hard and hard, pressed to the special fire bump printed with patterns, and then put in the pot slow fire refining, the refined fire has a thick layer of knots, scorched smell, open the inside is steaming white noodles, there is a thick noodle fragrance. Fresh out of the pot of fire does not need to be cooked, you can eat several in the empty mouth. Because the fire contains less moisture, it can also be put for several days in the summer, so it can be paid far, and the people of Huangxian County have to refine a few fires to carry. When I was in junior high school, it was boarding, the school food was very poor, even the basic food and clothing could not be guaranteed, every time before returning to school, my mother would refine a few fires in a basket for me to take away, from Monday to Friday, junior high school three years has been like this, think about when I ate hundreds of fires.
If the fire in Huangxian is subdivided, it can be divided into four categories, the most famous of course is the bar head fire, which is characterized by a hard face, it is not easy to operate it with bare hands, and it is necessary to use a rolling pin-like hardwood bar, one end is fixed to the wall, and one end uses the weight of the body to press the surface back and forth, while pressing the side mixed with dry noodles, "bar head fire" hence the name.
The bar head burned
After the face is pressed, it is cut into appropriate sizes, rolled into a circle, and pressed with a special stamp. Its oven for baking is also more distinctive, the top layer is similar to the same thing as the tweezer, the prepared fire noodle blank is first placed on the top to heat the stereotype, the bottom of the tweezer is the hearth, there is a circle of earthen platform around the furnace wall, the set type of fire is picked up by a fork and placed on the clay table to bake, if you want to bake on both sides, you have to flip it from time to time.
The earthen stove is on fire
The horse north of the bar head fire (here "horse" gently rhymes, "a" is pronounced as "u", "hair" and "dumb" are also pronounced like this) is the most authentic, and the Huangxian Catering Company also makes fire, and in the early years, eight cents a piece, skinny and skinny, hard like a discus, not to be eaten. The North Horse Daji used to be famous far and wide, and Penglai and Zhaoyuan all came to catch up with the market, so the North Horse Bar Head Fire was also famous in the Jiaodong area. Many Huangxian wanderers who go to school and work outside the country have to bring a bag of bar head fire to burn back when they return to their hometowns to visit their relatives, and they are relieved of their homesickness. However, now the dough is kneaded with a kneading machine, the baking has also changed to the use of large electric cake bells, and the real handmade earth stove bar head fire is basically extinct. A tailor-made way to eat for the bar head fire is "braised fire", meat dishes, vegetarian vegetables and cut into small pieces of fire mixed together with water boiling, there are rice and vegetables, vegetables and rice in one (the old Beijing brine boiling fire is to burn and stew the pig intestines, pig lungs together to cook, also belongs to the reprocessing of fire, but much heavier than the Huangxian braised fire flavor).
Brine and cook over high heat
If it is another fire, a stew will be "carp", a bubble will be "stirred", the bar head fire because of its hard and dense noodles, after the boiling soup is still clear, the fire absorbs the vegetable juice gravy, eating more flavorful. (The real fire of the head of the bar is mixed with the dead side or the dead side of the noodles, which is the key to the boiling of the fire and the carp does not stir.) There is little moisture in the noodles, so it can be put for a long time without damage. In the past, people who broke into Kanto brought a pocket of bar to burn their heads, and when it was cold, they didn't bring bad for several months, too hard and too dry to swallow, and they needed to be simmered when they ate. Dead noodles are not easy to digest and are more resistant to hunger. Xi'an lamb steamed bun with ravioli, is also a semi-fermented or non-fermented dead noodles burned, broken into a pot to cook, not sticky and not scattered, if it is all noodles, it can not be soaked. ）
Wontons
Lamb steamed buns
In the early years, rushing to the North Malaysia Market, eating a bowl of braised fire can be called the highest enjoyment. There is also a kind of "oil fire", the method is similar to the cake, but one is hot noodles, the hair noodles are soft, and the layering of oil fire cannot be so much and so thin. Roll out the dough skin with oil rolled up and flattened, then brushed with a layer of oil rolled up, erected and pressed into a blank, and then rolled out with a rolling pin to refine the pot, the refined oil is burned like a large roll, circle by circle, and it is relatively soft to eat. Huangxian also has a kind of food called oil cake, Tuchengzi sheep soup restaurant has to sell, but also hair noodles, long oval, fried in oil, and oil fire practice is not the same. Another kind of fire is called "meat fire", that is, the paper is rolled out and wrapped in meat filling, and then rolled flat into the pot to cook, the noodles are mixed with the meat aroma, which is more tempting. Compared to pie pies, the meat fire filling is less thicker, and only the meat filling has no vegetarian filling. There is also a kind of "sugar fire", the method is similar to the meat fire, but the filling is changed to brown sugar or white sugar, a bite has a piping hot sugar liquid flowing out, sweet and fragrant, teeth and cheeks remain fragrant.
In the Huangxian dialect, "burnt cake" specifically refers to the wedding noodle cake, which is also a noodle, while making alkali edge into a large number of dry noodles, the good grades are put into a special baked cake bump (the diameter is almost one foot, it is made of pottery) and printed with a pattern, generally the middle is double happiness, surrounded by flowers and grass ornaments, and after baking, it is also lit red.
Pancake
Refining the cake is a kind of pan of tweezers, to be slowly baked evenly, even baked with kang, because it is large and thick, the hammer should be flipped frequently, commonly known as "three flips and six turns", baked to the skin color golden, surrounded by chrysanthemum-shaped raw edges that is good, when eating with a knife to cut several petals, the inside is as white as snow, dry and delicious. When getting married, the woman has a "big meal", and there are burnt cakes in the food box. The man's family also has to customize a number of burnt cakes in advance, and when returning gifts to relatives and friends attending the wedding banquet, a large baked cake should be placed in each gift bag. In addition to marriage, children also need to use burnt cakes for the day and the beams of the new house. The burnt cake is much larger than the fire, the pattern is also more complicated, looking at the style, it also looks like the bottom of the house, so the only way to do happy things is to use the burnt cake without burning. Usually the family will also do baked cakes to eat, but everything from jane, after polishing with a rolling pin into a bare face, the pot is refined, the size is also arbitrary, how big the pot cake is, and the pot is concave bottom, the shape of the cake after refining is like a turtle cover, the farmers call it "hair noodle cake", which is actually a homemade version of the burnt cake. In the past, there were also specially sold on the set, called "pot cakes", which were cut into a group to sell. According to the custom of Laohuang County, on the third day after the deceased is buried, relatives add soil to the new grave, which is called "round grave". After the grave is rounded, each person is given a piece of flour cake, and it is said that if you eat it, you can get the protection of the deceased's spirit in heaven. The round grave's dough cake is as big as a basket, two or three inches thick, and it can't be refined by refining it alone, so it has to be steamed first and then refined, so it is still relatively fluffy inside. The representative pasta of Shaanxi is "pot helmet", and one of the "ten monsters of Shaanxi" is "steamed bun like a pot lid", which refers to it.
Shaanxi pot helmet
The practice of huangxian pot cake and Shaanxi pot helmet is basically the same, the pot helmet is five or six pounds and more than ten pounds, the largest has a bag of noodles to make one, and the large huangxian pot cake also has more than ten pounds and twenty pounds, which are all "big Macs" in the cake. Although the Sichuan pot helmet is called the pot helmet, it is by no means the same as the Shaanxi one, rolled into thin slices with puff pastry, smeared with filling, rolled up into a cake shape, dipped in sesame seeds, fried in oil, and then baked thoroughly in a stewing oven. Sichuan pot helmet is a bit like a pie, but not a bun filling but a roll filling, which is a bit like the method of the cake, but the pan cake is only greased, the Sichuan pot helmet is filled with filling, there are fresh meat filling, beef filling, pretzel filling, brown sugar filling and other flavors, Juntun pot helmet is one of the famous snacks in Sichuan.
Juntun pot helmet
Hubei public security pot helmet is also very famous, the method is to wrap the filling of the dough rolled open, shaped like a shoe sole, one side dipped in sesame seeds, and then the unpoped sesame side into the oven, baked out, caramelized crisp, this is similar to the way of steamed bread and grass stove baking cake.
Public security pot helmet
All three are called pot helmets, but the methods are completely different, which makes people cry: can it be more reliable?
The Modern Chinese Dictionary (7th Edition) interprets "burning" as "burning cakes without sesame seeds on the surface", and those who have sesame seeds are known as burning cakes and those who have no sesame seeds are called burning cakes, which is the general method of distinguishing between burning and burning cakes in some places, but this is not the case in Huangxian County. Judging from the pragmatic practice of Huang County, there are no sesame seeds in both fire and burned cakes, so it can be seen that the presence or absence of sesame seeds is not the absolute standard for distinguishing between the two. Huangxian's fire is small and can be made with oil and filling, and is a portable food for long-distance travel. Burnt bread is a big solid, mostly used in festive occasions. Clay stoves are used to make fires, and pans are used to burn cakes, but both are made over slow fire.
The cylinder stove is on fire
When I was in the fourth grade of elementary school, a couple from outside the world set up a cylinder stove in the Huangcheng Dongguan side (it was made up of mud smeared with mud in a large oil drum, not a real vat), baked a shoehorn-like baked cake, with sesame seeds, pretzel flavor, salty and salty, as if there was still a little onion flavor, fragrant and crispy. Because the fire and burnt cakes in Huangxian Are refined, this is the first time I have eaten the baked cakes baked directly against the wall of the stove, and I was very impressed, and the most expected thing at that time was to pass by in the afternoon after school and buy a freshly baked cake to treat myself.
Some of the pictures are quoted from the Internet, and the copyright belongs to the original author