——Shenzhen 7,000 years, there are stories you don't know
https://image.netwin.cn/cms/2020/12/08-19-05-42708.mp3
【Anchor】
Liu Youyang (Chief Editor of Reading Innovation/Shenzhen Business Daily)
【Column Introduction】
Discover Shenzhen is an influential cultural weekly magazine under the Umbrella/Shenzhen Business Daily, dedicated to excavating the unknown history of Shenzhen, and has been popular with the public since its opening. Now we will make the content of "Discover Shenzhen Weekly" sound, 5 minutes a day, and tell you a little knowledge about Shenzhen's history, folklore and culture.
【Contents of this issue】
Cantonese people love to drink soup, all year round according to the weather conditions and decide what soup to drink, reasonable use of soup water to nourish the body. Therefore, there is a saying in the locals: "Drinking soup is better than drinking medicine", that is, the folk health care saying that "medicine is not as good as food therapy". Today I will tell you about the Cantonese people's soup making dafa.
Spring, summer, autumn and winter words to cook soup
◎ Liao Honglei
Drink soup, Cantonese people say "drink soup", Shenzhen Guangfu people say "drink soup water", Hakka people say "food Shun". Saying that the soup is "smooth", I don't know if the predecessor described the name of the former person who drank a bowl of soup before eating and felt that the eating was "smooth"? The author cannot find the relevant written records, only that it is the oral transmission of the Hakka ancestors.
Recently, it was reported that an authoritative health department investigated and disclosed the statistics of "north fat and south thin", saying that southerners, especially Guangdong people, are less fat, and one of the factors is related to eating habits. That is to say, Cantonese people love to drink soup, according to the weather conditions throughout the year and decide what soup to drink, reasonably use soup water to nourish the body. Therefore, there is a saying in the locals: "Drinking soup is better than drinking medicine", that is, the folk health care saying that "medicine is not as good as food therapy".
Spring, rainy, heavy humidity, easy to stagnate, fatigue, no appetite, at this time the locals like to boil kudzu red beans (or eyebrow beans) pork bone soup, or hard rice head soil poria honey date fan bone soup, soybean chicken bone grass pig tail soup to dispel dampness. In summer, the sun is like fire, sweating a lot, the body consumption is large, the folk from the old fire soup to boil a light "rolling soup", such as "rolling" (boiling) mustard tofu salted egg soup, seaweed shrimp skin miscellaneous fish soup, winter melon winter vegetable meat slice soup, Yaozhu festival melon meat soup, pickled cauliflower clam broth, goji leaf pork liver soup and tomato egg flower soup, etc., to supplement nutrition and moisture. Winter, for the "winter Tibet" season, is the best time of the year to nourish and maintain health, so Shenzhen people attach importance to "food supplement". For example, the old chicken soup of the boiled party ginseng beiqi goji berry, the bamboo silk chicken ginseng stew soup, the fish belly abalone red date pork tendon soup and the water fish (turtle) grass chicken lean meat soup, and even stewed dragon (snake) tiger (cat) phoenix (chicken) soup and so on.
What about autumn? What soup to drink in autumn? Folk proverb cloud: "The cool breeze arrives on the day of autumn", this festival heralds the transition and transition from hot summer to long winter. During this period of transition and transition days, the weather changes are more complicated, so Shenzhen people decide how to eat soup in autumn according to the weather conditions.
From Liqiu to summer, "place" contains the meaning of hiding and terminating. The festival of summer means that the summer is gradually fading, and the summer day is coming to an end, so many places have the proverb "in the summer and cold". However, China's territory is vast, and it is impossible for all places to enter the cool autumn at the same time on the day of autumn. Located in the subtropics of Shenzhen, in fact, the weather does not appear to be really cool in the autumn, and even sometimes the hot climate is no less than the summer. In the 45 days from autumn to autumn equinox, there will still be continuous high temperature weather, the air humidity is large, people not only do not feel cool and dry autumn, but often feel hot. This is what the folk often say is "the autumn tiger is fiercely over the tiger". Therefore, Chinese medicine calls this period of time "long summer". Gu Tieqing's "Qing Jia Lu" of the Qing Dynasty said: "After the local custom is in the summer, the weather is still warm, about eighteen days and the beginning of the cold; proverb cloud: eighteen basins of summer, that is, bathing for eighteen days." "It is clearly pointed out that after the summer heat, there are about 18 days of sweating.
In addition to warning people not to despise "autumn and summer", we should also pay special attention to the diet: a soup should carry the ingredient of "dispelling heat", but it is not a "cold soup" in midsummer, and the soup that is drinked is milder, such as five-fingered peach lean meat soup, Huaishan wolfberry rib soup, lotus root peanut keel soup, oyster sauce dried fan bone soup, corn carrot bone soup and Western Chen kidney tube bone soup. Second, autumn is really cool and dry. "Drinking and Eating" said: "Autumn is dry, it is advisable to eat hemp to moisten its dryness, and it is forbidden to drink cold." Chinese medicine believes that the human body is the same as nature, "spring birth, summer long, autumn harvest, winter Tibet." Autumn temperatures are alternating from hot to cool, the yang in nature tends to converge from drainage, and the rise and fall of yin and yang in the human body is also transformed. At the same time, the country custom believes that after the expenditure of hard labor in the summer, the chicken, duck, fish, sheep and rice melon vegetables in the harvest season will be harvested, and some rich dishes and some nourishing soup water will be made to supplement nutrition and strengthen the body in order to resist the coming cold weather.
In order to make it timely, folk customs eat some soups that are easy to digest, but also can regulate autumn dryness and balance the yin and yang of the body, such as potted papaya peanut honey date chicken claw soup, sand ginseng jade bamboo cishi red jujube pork tendon soup, yaozhu soybean pig tail (foot) soup, vegetable dried oyster sauce red date fan bone soup and coconut stew chicken, and so on. In this article, the author intends to introduce two affordable local old fire soups that are often eaten by families, in order to throw bricks and jade, and seek the praise and advice of foodies.
Watercress Chen kidney honey date keel soup
Buy 1000 grams of watercress in the market or supermarket, go to the old leaf whisker root, wash and spare; pig keel (or barrel bone) 500 grams, chop pieces, blanch the bloody water with boiling water, spare; Chen kidney (dried duck kidney), soak in hot water, set aside; 1 date, a carrot peeled chopped section, 3 dried Yao pillars or 1 dried octopus (for people who are cold and have a small piece of ginger or a piece of peel, coughers can add 5 grams of north and south apricots) After washing, put them together with the keel into a boiling clay pot (about 4 liters of water), and cook for 10 minutes. Turn the pot to the fire for 1 hour, when the bone broth is fragrant, then put in the watercress, then burn for more than 10 minutes to reduce the heat for about 1 hour, smell the unique aroma of the watercress bone soup, and finally put a little salt and dried scallops to taste, that is, cook into a pot of old fire watercress keel soup.
The soil name of watercress is watercress, because the leaves of the vegetable are the size of watercress, so it is also called "watercress". It is said that in the 1920s and 1930s, the seeds brought back by a Guangdong merchant in Portugal were sprinkled casually in paddy fields, and soon they grew, and the Cantonese people picked and boiled them to eat, raw and moist, which was very suitable for the local climate and the tastes of the locals, and later spread in the Pearl River Delta. The Cantonese call the Portuguese "Westerners", and this kind of water celery is called "Watercress". Watercress is rich in plant protein, fiber, vitamins, calcium, iron, phosphorus and other elements, rich in nutrients, clear heat and cool blood, with fire, moisturizing heart and lungs effect. As a soup, it can absorb and relieve the greasy pork bone when cooked. The potted soup is yellow-green, the soup has a unique taste, it is both sweet, delicious, delicious, and plays a role in dispelling fire and moisturizing, which is one of the seasonal soups that Shenzhen people like to drink in autumn and winter.
Vegetable dried oyster sauce red date fan bone broth
Oyster sauce, is the famous manhole oyster dried seafood, its meat is rich in nutrients, containing protein 45 ~ 57%, fat 7 ~ 11%, liver sugar 19 ~ 38%, in addition to a variety of vitamins, etc., especially the oyster sauce contained in the rheric acid, has obvious liver protection choleretic effect, known as "seabed milk" is called. Eating often can improve the body's immunity, lower blood lipids, and lower blood pressure. Li Shizhen's "Compendium of Materia Medica" records: oysters, treatment of weakness, aphrodisiac, detoxification, tonify male and female qi and blood, make the skin delicate, anti-aging.
Note that this dish dried oyster sauce soup can not be replaced with "dried pickles". "Dried pickles" are dried with mustard greens, which are dried with a little salt when dried, so it is specially used as a heat-clearing, anti-pharyngitis pot "pickle dry tea", when the herbal tea is drunk, and can not be used as a pot broth to drink.
Dried vegetables are the milk cabbage grown by Shenzhen farmers, which are blanched in boiling water and half-cooked, and then taken to the sun for ten days and a half months of "dried cabbage". Dried vegetables are rich in vitamins and high fiber, and after being boiled with oyster sauce, it has become a soup with local characteristics. Nowadays, there are fewer people in the community who grow vegetables and dried vegetables, and can go to supermarkets or farmers' markets to buy; occasionally, some peasant women in Dongguan, Tamsui and Zengcheng pick up farm melons to sell, and you can also buy dried vegetables that are more authentic than supermarkets.
The specific method of dried vegetable oyster sauce soup: choose three or four dried fresh vegetables (about 50 grams, too much dried vegetables, the soup will be astringent), soak in warm water for more than half an hour, soak the soft dried vegetables to remove impurities, and set aside; take seven or eight (about 100 grams) dried oyster sauce, 3 dried Yao pillars and 2 red dates (pitted), wash and set aside; buy 750 grams of lean meat or pork fan bones and chop them, and remove the bloody water in boiling water. Then, boil 3000 to 4000 liters of water with a tile, put the above 5 ingredients in, boil on high heat for more than 10 minutes, change to a simmer for more than 90 minutes to 120 minutes, see the soup is burned golden, overflowing with aroma, put a little sea salt and dried scallops to taste. This soup is eaten with soy sauce due to the adsorption of the spilled fat from the fan bone due to the dried vegetables, the soup water is fragrant and not greasy; when the soup residue is eaten, the dried vegetables and the scallop meat and oyster sauce are dipped in soy sauce, which has a special hometown flavor and leaves a fragrance on the teeth and cheeks. Dried vegetable oyster soup is beneficial to the spleen and stomach, flat fat and lower blood pressure, prolong life, is a traditional therapeutic soup of Shenzhen people.
(The author is honorary president of Shenzhen Local Culture and Art Research Association and folklore scholar)
Review: Yu Fanghua