On May 1, 1960, Guiyang was scheduled to hold a "May Day" parade, starting from the Liuguangmen Stadium and ending at the Great South Gate. I was in junior high school at the time, and the first day the school received a notice that it would be held in the large playground of the provincial military district, and that I would listen to the command after repeated greetings. Early in the morning of "May 1st", we gathered at the playground of the South Factory, because we were students, and the line was relatively high. Suddenly, the crowd began to stir, and there was a burst of cheers, and it turned out that the figure of Premier Zhou appeared on the review table. Later, I learned that the premier had returned from a visit to Southeast Asia and had taken a short rest in Guiyang. On May 3, Premier Zhou and Comrade Deng Yingchao tasted Guiyang-style dishes at the Riverside Hotel, which included snacks such as golden hook hanging jade brand, sauerkraut stewed bean soup, tofu balls and other Guizhou home-cooked dishes and intestinal noodles. I heard that the prime minister was full of praise and raised hopes for the inheritance and innovation of Qiancai.
Although these are ordinary dishes on the dinner table of ordinary people in Guizhou, I have always thought that they are the most delicious.
First of all, the golden hook hangs a jade plate, the name is magnificent, to put it bluntly, it is very simple, that is, boiled soybean sprouts and tofu. Some people may be surprised, this dish is too simple, what kind of head? And slowly conclude, this is very famous: soybean sprouts, do not underestimate, in the past there was no MSG, soybean sprouts are an excellent material for improving umami. The broth used in the temple is boiled with soybean sprouts, shiitake mushroom stalks, and winter shoot roots; the bone broth of the intestines and noodles must also be boiled with soybean sprouts. In the old days, Chengdu's famous "aunt feast" often enjoyed chicken, duck and fish meat by diners, and then boiled soybean sprouts in a pot, all of which were clapped and happy. However, you have to use the ones sold at the rural market, and the farmers themselves use local soybeans, which have long whiskers and are more time-consuming to pick up, but the taste is very different. Tofu also has to be pushed with local soybeans in Guizhou, sour soup point, which is also a Guizhou characteristic, tender, and soft and hard, cooked with chopsticks to pick up. First cook the bean sprouts to enhance the flavor, and then add the tofu to cook together. After cooking, only to see soybean sprouts such as golden hooks, tofu white like jade cards, hot or slightly cool and then eat.
The next key thing is to dip in the water, and also divide the meat dipping water and the vegetarian dipping water. Meat dipping water is made by using vegetable oil, chili peppers and minced pork to first refine minced meat oil chili peppers, and then adding green onions, ginger, garlic, salt and soy sauce, and now most of the tofu is dipped in meat dipping water or oil chili dipped in water. There are also vegetarian dipping water, freshly baked paste spicy horn, pounded into chili noodles with a bamboo tube, poured in a bowl, add some salt, add some curd milk, or finely sliced tempeh, scoop a scoop of boiled tofu bean sprout soup water into it, chopsticks stir it and it will become. In the past, the bean flower rice of Dongshan Temple in Guiyang was very famous, especially the oil pepper dipped in water made by monks, which was both spicy and fresh, and the trick was to add curd milk.
There is a saying in Guizhou called "three days without eating acid, walking and salvaging and jumping". Most people in Guizhou like to eat sauerkraut, green vegetables, cabbage, rapeseed, radish vegetables can be used as raw materials, green vegetables are more common, a little more sour than cabbage, I prefer radish wisps pickled. Adzuki beans can be used with mountain beans, rice beans, kidney beans, and red rice beans are the best. After the beans are boiled, add the chopped sauerkraut, and add a little salt to make the sauerkraut bean soup. The sauerkraut bean soup in the Bijie area is the most authentic, one is because of the origin of the small beans, and the other is the rice soup mixed with freshly drained rice soup in the small bean soup. The third is to drizzle with a little freshly boiled lard. The fourth is to put a little wood ginger flower. Some are also accompanied by a bowl of minced ginger, tempeh rice, simmered chili noodles, salt and other dipping water, in the words of the Bijie people: "Sauerkraut bean soup with wood ginger flowers - very fragrant." Now that the standard of living has improved, there are more feasts to eat, and after drinking enough meat, each person has a small bowl of sauerkraut bean soup, and Zhun bao is very popular. In fact, use green spicy horn, tomatoes, sauerkraut braised four seasons of bean rice, or use barrel spicy horn, sauerkraut stir-fried minced meat, the same refreshing rice. You don't have to say, over the years, I think sauerkraut bean rice, small bean soup, the taste has not changed much, and when I was a child, the street and alley, shouting "small bean soup four seasons bean rice" is still the same.
Back to the tofu balls, the old Guiyang used to call them "Lei family tofu balls". It is said that the Lei family's family rule is to pass on the daughter-in-law and not to the daughter, which has a history of nearly 150 years. In the thirteenth year of Tongzhi (1874), the Tongzhi Emperor died, and the imperial court ordered the whole country to "ban slaughter". The Lei family's mother-in-law sold tofu with salt, alkali and spices, peppercorns and green onions into fried croquettes, which was very popular. After the death of her mother-in-law, she has been run by her daughter-in-law Lei Santai and is well-known. In the 1950s, the Lei family made the production method public. In articles describing diet, there is often a saying of "outer scorch and inner tenderness", you eat guiyang's tofu balls, and then you really know what is outer scorched and tender. The balls are about the same size as the newly stipulated ping-pong balls, fried brown and crispy on the outside, grilled with chopsticks, full of aroma, white jade-like urns are honeycomb-shaped, and turquoise green onions are dotted among them; after the entrance, they are delicate and abnormal, with peppercorns, green onions, star anise cinnamon, and a faint alkali smell, just the right salt taste, so that you can't help it. Guiyang people eat tofu balls to add folded ear root dipped in water, I like to eat white, so as to enjoy the five flavors of miscellaneous Chen.
Speaking of tofu balls, it is natural to pull guiyang's famous snack - roasted tofu fruit. It is rumored that during the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression, Zhang Huafeng and his wife, who lived near Pengjiaqiao, changed their name to "Love Tofu Fruit" and the story will not be repeated. To be honest, the roasted tofu fruit now is a little different from what we ate when we were children. At that time, the tofu fruit was cut into almost cubes, sent with alkaline water, and it had to be eaten overnight, and there was a little bit of odor before it was fragrant. Eat tofu fruit, to stay on the edge of the stall, the sawn wood noodles in the tile pot, baked on the barbed wire, bamboo slices are cut open, bitter garlic, folded ear roots, pepper dipping sauce, while hot to eat, although some dripping soup leaks, it seems not so elegant, but it is this atmosphere.
At the beginning of May, the melon beans have not yet been listed, and in the recipe for hosting Premier Zhou, there are no vegetarian melon beans, which I think is a pity. Boiling vegetarian melon beans, I have always believed that it should be listed as the first of the qiancai. Beans, with stick beans, four seasons beans or glutenless beans can be, four seasons beans are the best. Remove the tendons on both sides and break them into inch long; melons, it is best to use long vines and small cucumbers, zucchini is too bad, can not be cut with a knife, to be skimmed into small pieces by hand. Vegetarian melon beans are seasonal dishes in summer, and when they are cooled, they are delicious, and they do not need to be dipped in water, which is the original taste. Because of my work relationship, I often go to the countryside and eat more at my hometown. The red sun is hot, first say hello, return to the hometown after doing things, a large jar of cold kuding tea in the hall house, scoop a bowl to drink, the dry heat suddenly subsides. In the middle of the square table is stacked with a large bowl of boiled vegetarian melon beans, selected from the home, no fertilizer has been applied, and the soil is real, you think, that kind of fresh, that kind of sweetness, that kind of purity, I believe many people have had this experience.
After talking for half a day, it is full of clear soup and water, and it is going to be despised by meat eaters? No, too! Guizhou has a famous dish, which is well-known throughout the country, and even overseas, that is, the famous "Gongbao Chicken". Some people also list it as a famous dish in Sichuan, probably because Ding Baozhen served as the governor of Sichuan, and this dish flowed into the folk. In fact, to distinguish between Sichuan flavor Gongbao chicken and Qianwei Gongbao chicken, one is to see the name of the dish, Guizhou is commonly known as Gongbao chicken, Sichuan is generally called Gongbao chicken; the second is to see the pepper, Guizhou with a little sweet sauce stir-fry with a little sweet sauce. After the Kung Pao chicken is fried, there is red oil and thick sauce on the bottom of the plate, and although it is spicy, it is not spicy, and it has a spicy taste but cannot see the pepper. Most of Sichuan uses spicy horns in a barrel, fried to be scorched, spicy horns are spicy horns, chicken cubes are chicken cubes; the third is to taste the taste, Guizhou is fiercely fried, put a little sugar before the pot, drop a few drops of vinegar, and eat it with a lychee flavor. Sichuan is to put a few peppercorns, plus fried peanut rice. In the 1950s and 1960s, there were several Guiyang masters of Qiancai, such as Chen Haiqing, who could shed chicken feathers with three strokes of their hands, known as "three chickens". In 1959, in the Great Hall of the People in Beijing, together with Cai Wenbin and Zhong Wenfu, he performed the cooking techniques of Gongbao Chicken, from killing chicken, shedding, dicing to stir-frying, the first time it took more than three minutes, and the fastest one took only two minutes and eight seconds. "Gongbao chicken" is also known as "Mr. Zhao chicken" in Japan, the reason is that at the beginning of the last century, the late Mr. Zhao Huimin, secretary general of the Guiyang Municipal CPPCC, studied in Japan and introduced "Gongbao chicken" into japan, which was actually popular, so it was called "Mr. Zhao chicken", which is also considered to be anecdote.
Lara said so much, as if there was still one important thing that was not said. Oh, and Guiyang's signature snack, "Intestinal Noodles", which the premier also praised after tasting it. It is strange to say that the "scraps" such as large intestines, pig blood, and slot head meat have become a delicious food loved by everyone after skillful treatment; the road goods eaten by the peddlers and pawns have been improved by several generations and have ascended to the hall of elegance. Moreover, in Guiyang's various flavor snacks, intestinal noodles have always been at the top of the list, which cannot but make people admire the guiyang people's ability to "turn decay into magic". It is said that the origin of the intestinal noodles is only more than a hundred years old, and no one seems to be able to say that he is ugly, which is not surprising, he was originally a "lower Riba person", and if he insisted on renewing a family tree, I am afraid that it would be difficult. Listen to the old man who is older than me, at the beginning of the last century, Guiyang "Su Intestinal Wang", changed the fried fat intestines to simmered sausages, added a little cooked mung bean sprouts, and formed the basic style of intestinal noodles; what is a bit famous is "Yiyuan", "Luo Tiegang", "Old Regardless" and so on. The rest of my life is also late, I only remember when I was a baby, at the entrance of Wangjia Alley, on the bumper next door to the bungee troupe, there was a sausage noodle restaurant, and the name can not be remembered. Under the wall of the board directly opposite the entrance door, there is a white case of the pressure bar surface, a thick wooden bar passes through the board, one end is inserted in the pin eye, and the other is a young man riding across, pressing the dough up and down. Egg shells and duck eggshells are thrown in the underground basket, which means that the egg noodles are rolled out, and the duck eggs are added to make the noodles more brittle. After rolling out a thin noodle, it is rolled into a lump, coded in a square bamboo basket, covered with a damp cloth, and swept away, the jargon is called "running alkali". The door on the right is a large stove for boiling noodles, boiling water in a large iron pot, throwing a lump of noodles into it, boiling a minute to fish into the bowl, the bottom of the bowl first pour a handful of mung bean sprouts on it, after the noodles are fished in, scooped into the broth, then blanched blood, fattened intestines, crispy, drizzled with red oil, sprinkled with green onions, and you're done. First look at the appearance, fine face curly golden yellow, bean sprouts slightly green, blood Wang Zen red, intestinal jade white, crispy brown yellow, spicy oil bright red, green onions, let people inevitably eat fingers. Taste in the mouth, the noodles are crisp and tough, the intestines are fat but not greasy, the blood is tender and smooth, the crisp and crispy are chewy, the bean sprouts are refreshing, the red oil is spicy but not fierce, the soup tastes fresh and mellow, and it is really a big meal. After eating a few bites, drip a little aged vinegar and slightly adjust the alkali taste, which is another world. The crispy meat made of the grooved head is soaked in the noodle soup, and it is still crispy to the end. As for the jargon shouted by the guys, "no green", "red weight", "minus strips", etc., this is the case with all the intestinal noodle restaurants. However, this is already a past before the nails, and now Guiyang sells intestines all over the streets, and there are really not many that can make people pick up a little memory of the time.
There was a lot of rambling and it was time to stop. Guizhou cuisine is worth mentioning a lot, not to mention there are flavor snacks such as silk dolls, beef powder, mutton powder, sour soup fish, bean flower noodles, etc., which are more than a short article can be loaded, and are left to be decomposed next time.
Source: Guizhou Radio and Television Station