Original text: [Zhang Kai tofu]: Mash the dried shrimp into the tofu, raise the oil pot, add the ingredients and stir-fry.
Chun Yuan Mei "Suiyuan Food List" miscellaneous vegetarian list
Yuan Ming was brilliant and his poetry crowned Jiangnan, and because of his prestige and status, he often became the object of banquets for protégés and celebrities everywhere. Friends with poetry, but also with food friends, "taste like poetry", it is really "the seat is always full, the bottle is not empty." Yuan Ming not only likes to eat, but also every time he eats a good product, he will order the cook to come to the door to ask for advice, and when he returns, he will report to him the essentials, and he will take notes casually. In terms of food raw materials, common cereals, melons and vegetables, poultry game, birds and fish, etc., are all available. In terms of cooking techniques, simmering, frying, burning, stir-frying, steaming, frying, stewing, boiling, pickling, sauce, brine, drunkenness and other production methods, noodle masks. There are as many as nine kinds of tofu written down, and today we will talk about Zhang Kai tofu.
Yuan Ming loves to eat tofu, in the "Suiyuan Food List", in the list of miscellaneous vegetarians, he said the most is tofu, there are "Jiang Shilang tofu", "Yang Zhongcheng tofu", "Zhang Kai tofu", "Qingyuan tofu", "Furong tofu", "Wang Taishou Babao Tofu", "Cheng Liwan Tofu", "Frozen Tofu", "Shrimp Oil Tofu" and other tofu, these tofu methods have different tastes. Among them, there are six kinds with names and surnames, these people are Mr. Yuan's friends and friends, some of them are marked with officials such as Jiang Shilang, Yang Zhongcheng, Wang Taishou, and some directly call their names, such as Zhang Kai, Qingyuan, and Cheng Liwan. From this point, we can see their relationship, indicating that the officials are all older than Yuan Mingguan, and they are currently in office, Shilang, Yang Zhongcheng, and Wang Taishou. The names called directly are friends or late births, such as Cheng Liwan is a Suzhou salt merchant, and Zhang Kai and Qingyuan are only late born. Although the cloud was born late, it is not a generalist.
Zhang Kai tofu in the "Suiyuan Food List" does not record much : " Mash the dried shrimp into the tofu , raise the oil pot , add ingredients and stir-fry." "It also did not indicate what Zhang Kai's provenance was, and later the reprinters of the recipes of previous generations did not have any comments on Zhang Kai, so who Zhang Kai was, who was there, everyone did not know." It is also difficult to say that there are not many records about Zhang Kai in history, because Zhang Kai was only a painter. I know that Zhang Kai was at the 2014 autumn auction in Beijing Baiquan, when one of his "Mountain High Moon Charts" started at a starting price of 5000.00, and it didn't matter how much money he bought and sold later, it didn't matter who bought it, Guan Jian let people know About Zhang Kai.
Zhang Kai (born and died unknown), a native of Wu County (Suzhou, Jiangsu), was a court painter in the late Qing Dynasty, who was in charge of the Ruyi Pavilion and was good at painting landscapes, flowers, and feathers. Court painters are a profession, specializing in the service of the imperial family, including many masters, such as Lang Shining is a court painter. Court painting is a small part of the entire ancient Chinese painting, this part of the painting, because the era is closer to the present, most of the works are hidden in the palace, not known to outsiders, so for a long time, there is little understanding of this group, not as famous as the city painters. This is a bit like the chef of the National Management Bureau in the chef's circle, because of the special situation, although the craftsmanship is good, it is indeed not as beautiful as the local celebrity chef.
As far as the Qing Dynasty is concerned, the art of court painting in the Qianlong period reached its peak, and one of the characteristics of the works of court painters is "courtier style". What is a "courtesan style"? That is, in front of the painter's name, a "subject" character is added, such as "Chenlang Shining Painting", "Chending Guanpeng Fengshu Gong Painting", "Chenwang Yuan Qi Gong Painting", "Chenhong Gong Painting" and so on. Zhang Kai's painting taken above is such a work. Although Zhang Kai was in charge of the Ouchi Ruyi Pavilion, he was still an official with a small name, and he left the date of his birth and death.
Ruyi Hall is the place where the painters in the palace painted. It was established by the Kangxi Emperor in that year, and originally belonged to the Manufacturing Office, where Western painters such as Lang Shining and Ai Qimeng worked. Located in the northeast of the "Deep Cave Heaven", one of the twenty scenic spots on the east side of the Inner Gate of the Yuanmingyuan Fuyuan, it is a group of four courtyard buildings. Mainly engaged in painting creation, but also the production of jade, ivory and other handicrafts. Ruyiguan not only has its own exclusive painters, but also has special management officials, and performing painting tasks is one of the functions of Ruyiguan. In the Xianfeng Decade (1860), when the British and French troops burned the Yuanmingyuan, ruyiguan was reduced to ashes.
After the prosperity of Kangqian, the Qing Dynasty gradually went into decline, the peak of culture and art has passed, from the late Qianlong period to the demise of the Qing Dynasty for more than 100 years, the court painters Dong Yu's works market performance is the best. In addition, Feng Ning, Fang Fu, Li Bingde, Shen Zhenlin, Qu Zhaolin, Miao Jiahui, Hu Gui and Zhang Kai also have works in circulation. Zhang Kai, a native of Suzhou, Jiangsu Province, was taught by Mr. Yuan Ming and was later selected to be sent to the palace, and as for becoming the leader of the Ruyi Pavilion, it was during the Jiaqing period after Yuan Ming's death. Yuan Ming was the leader of the Jiangnan poetry circle at that time, and although Zhang Kai was a court painter who ate official meals, he did not dare to entrust him to a large house, and every time he returned to his hometown and province, he passed through Jinling. He will go to the garden to visit the old teacher, and Zhang Kai is also a person who eats and drinks well. "Wujiang County Chronicle", volume 23: Zhang Kai, the character is reverent, the portrait is Zhu Jizun is high-footed, sexually alcoholic, drunk and long-screaming, and the voice is like a luan phoenix. It seems that this old man not only loves to drink, but also sings karaoke when he drinks beautifully.
Once the teacher and student duo drank beautifully, Zhang Kai knew that Yuan Mei was delicious and said: "Teacher, I have eaten a dish in Beijing, and the raw materials are simple and not complicated, or I will not make it for you to taste." Yuan Ming listened to the music, "Xiao Zhang, hurry up and go to the kitchen to make it for me to eat." After a while, only to see Zhang Kai bring a plate of golden dishes, Yuan Mei used chopsticks to clip a little in his mouth, chewy, dry and soft, very delicious, casually boasted: "Not bad, good taste, in fashionable American, that is called versa good." So it was included in the menu of suiyuan and named after Zhang Kai, who would never have thought that after nearly three hundred years, his name was little known, but there were still people who were talking about it, studying the tofu dishes he made at that time.
The original text of Zhang Kai tofu is "mash the dried shrimp, put it into the tofu, raise the oil pot, add the ingredients and stir-fry." "From the raw materials to the preparation method, it is very similar to a dish in Beijing, fried dried rotten tofu. The preparation method of this dish is to put the pot on the high heat, pour sesame oil, burn to 60% or 70% heat, put in the tofu, stir-fry with a hand spoon, stir-fry for 5 to 6 minutes; when the tofu has become a crushed, the water is slowly fried, golden brown, add minced green onion, ginger, fine salt, and fry for another 2 minutes; after the water is all fried, finally, add soy sauce, rice wine and sesame oil and fry evenly. Some people call this dish chicken planing tofu, but the dried rotten tofu is really not chicken planed tofu.
Chicken planed tofu is a well-known dish for the poor in Northeast China. Because the tofu in this dish is crushed, as if it has been shaved by chicken feet, it is called chicken shaved tofu by people. There is also a joke about this dish, saying that a family member married a daughter-in-law, and the husband asked the new daughter-in-law to make a plate of "chicken shaved tofu". In fact, chicken planing tofu is to put the tofu in a bowl, stir with chopsticks, add some salt, green onions, and sesame oil. But the husband waited for half a day, and was in a hurry, and the new daughter-in-law panicked and brought a plate of tofu with mud and soil. The father-in-law asked, "What is this?" The new daughter-in-law said, "It's hard to die!" Ran halfway down the street and did not find chickens, this is a borrowed duck to planing! Haha, of course it's a joke.
Chicken planed tofu is a vulgar local dish from Chinese folk villages. It's just that poor villagers drink without a dish. The wife saw that the chicken ass had just laid an egg. Take it and stir-fry the tofu at hand. Drumming out, who wants to taste very good, gradually became a dish. The method is to use the north tofu, the south tofu is definitely not too tender, rinse it with water, control the water, prepare some green onions and white crushes, how much is not limited, two or three eggs. A pinch of peppercorns or pepper, fine salt. The net pot is boiled and refueled for about half two, burn until it is 30% hot, take the tofu over, use two hands to crush into the pot, do not use a knife, not too broken. Stir-fry, and the larger tofu in the pot, stir-fry the tofu into even tofu pieces, fry the tofu until almost water-deprived, beat three eggs into the pot of tofu, stir-fry, wrap the eggs evenly in the tofu, add fine salt, chopped green onion, and a little pepper or pepper powder to the pot. Stir-fry until the eggs are ripe. Pay attention to stir-fry this vegetable oil less dry, more oil is too greasy. The proportion of eggs should not be too large. No meat, no vegetarian, just white porridge, under the small wine is suitable.
In the south, there is no dried rotten tofu, nor chicken planed tofu, but there is a fried tofu pine, which is made of tofu, sea rice, sauce cucumber, sauce ginger, etc. as the main ingredients, with oil, sugar, monosodium glutamate, etc. as the seasoning, and is made by sautéing, which is somewhat similar to the Zhang Kai tofu recorded by Yuan Ming. Because many of the dishes in the garden menu are seasoned with cucumber sauce, ginger sauce, and sea rice.
The following makes the garden dish Zhang Kai tofu: the old tofu cut into large pieces, put into a pot of boiling water, add 1 gram of salt, cover, burn the tofu on medium heat to the hole, fish out, put it in the basin, draw a few knives, drain the water, slice the surface of the old skin; sauce melon, sauce ginger soaked in cold water and cut into finely chopped. Finely chop the dried shrimp. Put the wok on the medium heat, put in sesame oil, heat, under the tofu, with a stir-frying spoon and stir-fry continuously, until the tofu is dry and golden brown, down into the sauce melon, sauce ginger, shrimp, green onion, sauté the aroma, then add sesame oil, soy sauce, salt, sugar, sauté into the flavor, drizzle sesame oil can be. When making this dish, sesame oil should be divided into several times, and stir-fried tofu should be properly cooked. If the fire is too strong, the oil is too hot, the tofu will be fried paste, then you can put the pot to the low heat and fry, wait for the oil temperature to drop, and then continue to fry on the high heat, and pour a little sesame oil. Stir-fry as you like this, so that the oil is slowly immersed in the tofu. The finished dish is golden in color, dry and fragrant, and soft and strong to eat.
Article original, headline debut, part of the photo, excerpted from the internet,
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