A few days before the Spring Festival holiday, a friend asked me to go to a restaurant on Minghong Road for dinner. My inner difference is that Mao wants to eat in this dimly lit, forced old restaurant, my friend said that there is a private room in the family, and the owner is familiar with it, and my friend just gave me a Yellow River carp, just so that his back kitchen gives a free processing.
The back kitchen of this restaurant is obviously a. A large carp of the Yellow River weighing three or four pounds was actually cooked by steaming. After everyone picked a chopstick of fish meat, almost no one moved the second chopstick. It's very unpalatable.
Looking at the cooked fish on the table, I said to my friend with a pity face, I guess the kitchen is reluctant to fry it for you in the frying pan. If you follow the method of Ah Wujia braised big carp, it will be much more delicious, and you will not waste this fish, but it is a pity.
The friend's face is not coming.
During the Spring Festival holiday, Lao Wa read idle books at home. The pens of liang shiqiu and Tang Lusun, who are famous for food, have the technique of carp cooking that was fashionable at that time.
Liang Shiqiu's beautiful article is called "Tile Fish", which records the specialty dishes in the HouDefu Restaurant located in dashilar, the qianmen of Beiping, in which the Liang family once held a stake. Chen Liantang, the treasurer of Hou Defu, was a Kaifeng man, "who has a great skill and can make authentic Henan cuisine." "In the early years of the Republic of China, Yuan Xiangcheng was a country, and Henan cuisine was very popular in Beiping for a while.
The shingle fish of the Houdefu family got its name from the slightly curved tile-shaped fish of the fried yellow fish. Carp take its flesh thick, fillet thickness moderately, peeled. Wrapped in merus powder, warm oil, fried yellow. Make a sweet and sour sauce with the above good lotus flour and rock sugar, add a spoonful of hot oil to the heat, pour on the fish fillets, and finally sprinkle the ginger and serve.
When the diners were about to finish eating, the guy came over and pointed to the juice left on the plate and said: "Bake some noodles for you, shall you?" When the diners agreed, the guy took the plate away, and without much effort, a plate of crispy sweet and sour "baked noodles" fried in the oil pan with potatoes was served. The tile fish of the Hou Defu family is delicious and unstoppable, suitable for all ages.
In the mid-1920s, Tang Lusun ate carp in Kaifeng. Later, he wrote an article entitled "Three Eating Carps of the Yellow River", which recorded in detail the techniques and habits of kaifeng people eating carp under the customs and customs of that time.
Kaifeng people eat carp, more than three pounds of size to enter the back kitchen of the restaurant. why? Because of the prevalence of one fish and three eating, small carp can not be done.
When the restaurant in Kaifeng buys back the carp, it is necessary to raise it in the clear water pool for a few days, spit out the earthy smell, and after the carp is smoked, the meat will be tender. The method is half dry to eat, half sweet and sour tiles, head and tail fish with radish shredded soup, and finally mix the sweet and sour juice with a nest of silk noodles to eat, and Hangzhou West Lake vinegar fish mixed noodles have the same magic.
After the guests chose the carp in the reservoir and said good food, in order to avoid the guests from worrying about the psychology of dropping the bag, they immediately threw the live jumping carp that had just been fished out to the green brick floor of the courtyard, and did not forget to say: "Fall to death!" You're old! ”
This awkward and interesting scene made Tang Lusun remember it for decades, but he never faded his deep memory.