<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > Gansu canned tea</h1>
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People are thirsty. Drink when you are thirsty. When the gods and immortals were thirsty, they drank Qiong Pulp And Jade Liquid; when the emperor of the Qing Dynasty was thirsty, he drank deer blood; Liu Wencai, the former rich man of Sichuan, drank human milk when he was thirsty; and now the people in the city drank mineral water when they were thirsty... However, if the people of Gansu are thirsty, sometimes they will directly drink the cold water from the mountain spring, and then wipe their mouths and go to the hillside to cut alfalfa.
In the summer, when the wheat is beating, the Gansu people throw flails in the mill under the hot sun, and after sweating like rain, they are thirsty, at this time, they often drink a homemade standing drink - boiling water.
The raw materials for making boiling water, or stir-frying leaves, or fried charred wheat grains - preferably depressed wheat, the deflated wheat will float on the water after entering the water, so it is also called floating wheat. Old people say that drinking floating wheat boiling water can quench thirst and stop sweating.
Some people also fry the large incense and cumin, and rinse it with boiling water, which is said to be able to open up the eyes.
The simplest boiling water is to burn a piece of steamed bun and then throw it into the boiling water of a crock pot, and with a loud sound, the scorched bun sinks into the water, and the aroma floats out of the water. People lifted the crock pot and drank a beautiful cup of boiling water, and their hearts would suddenly feel cold, and their whole body would be happy and comfortable.
If drinking boiling water is the "fast drink" in the busyness of Gansu people, then drinking tea is the "slow product" of Gansu people when they are relatively leisurely.
Earth yellow mule drive jar mile
You sing and I'll help you
I have the heart to sing to you
The throat is stuffed and it doesn't match
Stuffed tea in his throat and drank it
You pulled up the cavity of my south road
This Gansu folk song sings a good tea drink: it is good to be able to let the stuffed voice resume singing! "The fourth sister Cheng (married) gave it to the Caidong family, and she will enjoy the blessing of fragrant tea." Yes, in the minds of Gansu people, drinking tea has always been a kind of enjoyment and happiness of life.
But the history of Drinking Tea in Gansu is not far away. The Qing Dynasty Zhang Yuansheng's "Dulong Miscellaneous Songs" poem Yun: "Loneliness passes through barren counties, and there are only a few depressions." The clouds are lost in the ancient ruins, and the moon is cold and clear. There is no rice in the small city, and the residents do not understand tea. There is no broken eaves door, and the wind is oblique. "What he wrote was probably the real scene of gansu at that time—how far away it was, when I think about it." This Jiangnan scholar stepped into Gansu Longzhong, which is different from the Jiangnan Scenery and World, and felt that he was almost "walking away from the wilderness". In his feeling of being desolate before he left the Yang Pass, the things that made him most unable to adapt were two things: First, there was no rice in food. Second, there is no tea to drink.
Drinking no tea – tea here refers specifically to tea produced in the south – is a very long history in Gansu. There is a fact that can be countered: in the 1970s, Gansu people still drank a lot of "soil tea" they made. For example, the "Dingxi County Chronicle" records: "When the leaves of fruit trees fall, farmers collect cherries, catalpa trees, red and white trees, apples and other leaves, and boil them to make tea leaves for usual drinking." "So, strictly speaking, this can't be called tea.
Many years ago, gansu people also drank an extremely inferior tea, which was called "noodle tea". In fact, noodle tea can not be called tea, or even called noodle tea, the most accurate name should be "black soil". People who have entered the mill in the past may have some memories of the white dust on the floor and on the walls of the mill, and if it can be called "white soil", then I think the black dust on the ground wall in the tea workshop is "black soil". However, just before 1980, there were still many people in Longyuan who were still drinking this tea that could not really be called tea, just because it was cheap.
Time flies, and now that the people's lives are thriving, the history of eating and drinking without rice and drinking without tea has long become a distant past. A few years ago, Shaanxi writer Jia Pingwo came to Tongwei County, Gansu Province, and had this description of the "tea life" of the Tongwei people: "Tongwei does not produce tea leaves, and the cellar water is not sweet, although the brazier and tea set of boiled tea are extremely exquisite, and the tea that boils out is black and red, mushy, can be hung out of the line, and it is so half a cup." This tea can immediately quench thirst and lift the spirit, saving water and maintaining the affection between people. What Jia Gong describes is the so-called "can of tea" that almost everyone in Gansu can understand.
Southerners drink tea and like to pursue an elegant word, so we often see those pretentious "tea actions" from the film and television: gently lifting, gently inhaling, smacking, gently putting down... Southerners brew a cup of tea, watch the tea leaves stretch their bodies in the water, suck in the faint tea fragrance, feel a faint fragrance passing through the heart and lungs, and then surrounded by warm and wonderful feelings, listen to the wind and listen to the rain, think of the past and think of the Ming Dynasty... So I wanted to write poetry. However, gansu people do not like to drink tea like this. Gansu people like to drink cans of tea. In Gansu, if any relatives and friends come to their homes, the master must first set up a small square table of pear wood, and must first be busy with the tea stove. The small stove of stew pot tea is different with the different times, and it used to use firewood, so it is a mud stove, and the so-called red clay small tea stove is also. From time to time, the owner should lower his head to blow the fire with his mouth, the eyes are smoked to tears, and the roof is often smoked black; after having kerosene, people will switch to kerosene stoves, the wick can be large or small, very convenient, but the disadvantage is that kerosene has a taste when burning, which often affects the fragrance of tea; after electricity, slowly use the electric stove, clean, convenient, and no peculiar smell, but the stove wire will often break, which will interrupt people's interest. Now, many places in Gansu have begun to use biogas, so they have also begun to use biogas to stew tea. A small blue flame, just clean and clean to boil tea, is both hygienic, convenient and safe. Sitting on the stove is naturally a small sand pot for making tea.
Gansu people figuratively call drinking cans of tea "cans and cans of tea". While "pounding" and chanting, this rumor is no longer a "dry rumor", and this rumor is particularly flavorful. The Sichuan people call it the Pendulum Dragon Gate Array, the Beijingers call it Kan, the Northeasterners call it Nagging, the books are called Chatter, and the Gansu people call it "Rumors": Eating, drinking, and gambling officials, up and down for five thousand years, talking about everything, not slandering. While pounding pots of tea, the land and water go hand in hand, which is a good place for the curse. Such a slander, also known as "idleness", is actually talking about some gossip together. Life often talks about the eight classics of the child, such as the meeting of the leader, such as the professor's report, too tired, too uninteresting, interesting in fact, it is gossip. Jia Pingwo sometimes gives away some secrets to people for free, for example, he once said: "I studied many classics and discovered their common secret: they can gossip." Gossip well, the taste comes out. "What is the taste of language?" In the same article, Jia Pingwo mentioned a very earthy but accurate word: "tendon"! This is a word that Shaanxi people describe as the most delicious noodles. This word, in some places, is said to be "jin", such as good jindao instant noodles. In Gansu, it is called "rib bridge", that is, chewy. Gossip, on the other hand, is the most resistant and chewy kind of talk. When gossiping, the best thing to do with the throat is tea, which is canned tea.
Usually, there is no cup of cold water, a pinch of tea leaves, a can or a porcelain jar or a sand jar, a small fire, and there is no luxury and grandeur. One person pounding cans of tea is a one-person ceremony; two people pounding cans of tea is a ceremony of two people; seven people and eight people pounding cans of tea together, at this time, this face, almost can be said to be a small village festival!
Canned tea is bitter tea wow, but people drink that mouthful of bitterness, and what people need is exactly that mouthful of astringency. A few mouthfuls of bitter tea went down, the hunger and thirst were also solved, the huai shu was also comfortable, what the heart blocked, what hemp knots, what setbacks and blows, what bitter and sad, were washed away, diluted, melted, and drowned by these few mouthfuls of bitter tea. Putting down the teacup, the low-hanging eyelids were raised, the scattered eyes gathered, and the weak arms were majestic... Along the path of bitter tea, the once lost spirit is once again filled with heart and blood like the river in summer. At this time, look at the sky, no longer dim; listen to the birds, birds chirping; look at the world, the world is bright and warm, like a beautiful world. Accustomed to drinking such cans of tea, and then drinking the brewed tea in the paper cup, there is no simple taste - what is that called drinking tea!
Nowadays, people's living conditions have greatly improved, and the food for hospitality is becoming more and more abundant, and cigarettes, alcohol, snacks, and seasonal fruits are not uncommon, but people are still accustomed to stewing a pot of tea, talking, chatting, and then drinking and eating vegetables, and finally eating.
In Gansu, cans of tea have become a culture. Someone said: "They drink cans of tea, not for leisure, but to ensure the need for water for a day's work, and they use such a small tea cup, not to pursue elegance, but to express the subconscious cherishing of water; they pursue the bitter taste of tea, because they cannot tolerate the bitterness of tea taste and cannot tolerate the pain of labor." In this sense, canned tea is the materialization of their understanding of life, their emotions are interpreted through the 'tea ceremony' of canned tea, if you want to understand the dry farming culture and people living in this cultural circle, you can taste it in canned tea. "He said it so well, he must be a Gansu man who can drink cans of tea."