On the eighth day of the National Day, Brother Feng became the reception center of the Office of Relatives and Friends in Beijing.
Seven aunts and eight aunts dragged their families with mouths to carry caged birds to come, accompany the play and accompany the smiling face, help make an appointment in advance to help explain the health treasure gang to grab the attraction tickets...
These are not the most collapsed, the most devastating is -
They all asked to eat Quanjude!
▲ Quanjude Heping Store in 1979, which was still called "Beijing Roast Duck Shop" at that time
© People's Pictorial/Photographer Huang Lukui
For tourists, roast duck is Beijing's business card, and it is a pity not to eat roast duck when it is not a good man to the Great Wall – according to the roast duck news report in the 1980s, this famous saying has been spread overseas thirty years ago.
There are 1513 roast duck shops in Beijing, and tourists in the tour group only recognize one Quanjude.
Quanjude is an imposing century-old store. Entered the Forbidden City where the emperor lived, toured the Summer Palace of Lafayette, just found a little "turn over to be the master" feeling, out of the Hepingmen subway station, or from the tourist bus down, as soon as I saw the gold sign on a black background of Quanjude, I immediately stood in awe, the decibel of speech was reduced by more than half, and there was no waving fang who had just shouted "where Zhen Huan lives" in the East and West Palaces of the Forbidden City.
Quanjude is not the only roast duck shop that has received foreign guests, nor is it the only roast duck shop that has been blessed by celebrities, but Quanjude is the only one who has been the protagonist and filmed TV series.
This is not a roast duck, this is a roast duck IP.
▲The drama "The First Floor under heaven" with Quanjude as the background premiered in 1988. And there is a TV series of the same name.
© sohu.com
The roast duck is pushed up by car, the master will face your noodles, the price difference between the "ordinary package" and "ShengShi Peony" is 100, and the difference with the naked eye is that "Sheng Shi Peony" will slice the duck into the shape of a peony flower.
▲Each duck can have more than 100 pieces
© ytimg
There are two kinds of duck rack options, or boiling soup, duck soup per person a small bowl, can be added in unlimited amounts, can also be made into pretzels, served on a large plate, eat two began to get tired. A roast duck is nearly 300 yuan, but the quality is not so stable, sometimes, it is in line with your imagination; but sometimes, the skin is soft, the meat is cold, and it tastes a bit woody.
"Is this the most authentic Peking duck in legend?"
You just want to question, meet the sharp eyes of the roast duck master, and immediately shut up.
Quanjude in 2020, like other long-established brands, has been criticized. With that comes the loss.
▲Quanjude lost more than 100 million yuan in the first half of the year
But Quanjude had a heyday. We have a well-documented view of this.
In the hands of The Full Brother, there is a copy of the "Beijing Quanjude Famous Recipe", the pages are a little yellow, but as soon as we open it, we suddenly find that the time has gone back forty years, at that time, it was a great honor to be a duck of Quanjude.
In this 1982 Quanjude recipe, a total of 246 dishes are recorded, of which 108 are full duck seats.
At that time, the specifications of the high-class banquet were 9 colored cold cuts, 11 hot dishes, a set of roast duck, a soup, and final dessert.
The colored cold dish goes like this:
▲Goldfish swimming
The hot dish goes like this:
▲ Duck wrapped shark fin
The pastry goes like this:
▲Lotus puff pastry
Although many dishes do not have physical pictures, but the full brother has just read the text has already made up a table of red chamber feast. Really, it's expensive, and the fire is cooking oil.
There is a "flying swallow through the star", "star" is only taken from the middle of the duck tongue of the tongue, with eighty duck tongue buds, set on sixteen duck mushroom balls, forming sixteen Venus, foaming swallow vegetables surrounded by stars.
One bowl will cost you 80 ducks!
This dish was also a first-class dish in the same year, and it must be booked in advance to eat it.
Unfortunately, there is no physical picture of the dish in the recipe.
In fact, the basic model of Quanjude in the 1980s was much richer than today, and there was a kind of "duck four eating" in that year:
1. A roast duck about 108 slices, first from the duck breast up and down knife, slice 20% of the duck skin, dipped in sugar to eat;
© daimg.com
2. Slice 80% of the duck, roll it with green onion and dip it in a pancake with sweet noodle sauce;
3. Drain the duck oil and use it to make an custard;
▲ Duck oil custard
4. Finally, the roast duck meat is shredded and stir-fried with the pinched vegetables, and the duck shredded is called to cook the chopped vegetables. "Pinching vegetables" means that the bean sprouts cut off the buds and tail whiskers, leaving only the middle section.
▲Duck shredded cooking and chopping dish preparation
It is far more interesting than today's one-day combination of roast duck + duck rack soup (which also charges processing fees).
However, on this "roast duck four eating", the chefs of the year still did not take advantage of the table - so they developed 108 whole duck seats, one more than one magical!
Full Duck Table: A luxurious dish at the bottom of the pressure box
9 cold dishes at the opening table: Mandarin duck splashing in the water, crane looking at the moon, Linglong Pagoda, goldfish duck palm...
Goldfish duck paws are minced live fish and fatty duck meat, smeared on boneless and cramped duck paws, made into goldfish shapes, then made with hair vegetables to make shark fins, and then drizzled with broth.
▲Goldfish duck palm
Then there are 11 hot dishes, the first of which is a flying swallow piercing the stars.
The base of the swallow vegetables is made of duck breast meat, which is squeezed into 16 duck balls with mud, and then 5 duck tongue buds are set on the duck balls to form a star. Finally, I poured in a bowl of chicken broth, and I seemed to be able to see duck stars passing through the swallow vegetables.
Serve hard dishes in the center, such as steamed duck.
▲Steaming oven duck
Cut the roast duck into pieces, place in a broth with salt, soy sauce, cooking wine, green onion and ginger and steam over high heat, then re-steam with winter melon. The stuffed duck is roasted and then steamed, the greasy is gone, the meat is soft and rotten, and it is a well-deserved "duck table dish".
Soup can not be less ah, come to a pearl tongue ear soup.
▲Pearl tongue ear soup
The chicken breast is beaten into a mushroom, the duck tongue is deboned, the chicken mushroom is smeared on the side of the duck tongue boneless, and then like a cream cake carving, a pearl mushroom-sized mushroom ball is squeezed on the root of each duck tongue, set with a pea, and finally placed on the white fungus and boiled with broth.
So 107 perfect dishes, plus a roast duck, just 108 dishes. Every time someone sets up a banquet, depending on the number of people and the price, there are 13, 15 or 23 meals of various specifications.
All things are inseparable from the duck
In fact, in the very beginning, Quanjude was the main roast duck, with only a few stir-fried dishes. Most of the famous dishes in this recipe were developed by the masters of the previous generation of Quanjude in the 1970s and 1980s, but the practices of "white steak", "bad boiling", "dry roasting", and "oil bursting" are derived from orthodox Lu cuisine.
They combine the characteristics of Quanjude and use the element of "duck" to the extreme in Quanjude cuisine.
The tender duck tongue is made into a flying swallow piercing star, the whole duck tongue can be boiled with ham to make a crystal duck tongue, the duck small breast meat is used to decorate the longan abalone, the duck leg meat can be made into a pot collapsed abalone box, the duck juice is used to roast turtles, the duck oil can be steamed custard, and the silk is made...
▲Plucked apples, bad slip three whites, flower basket snacks, hibiscus plum blossom duck tongue, pearl tongue ear soup
There are also fried duck dice fried duck intestines, fragrant duck salt water duck crystal duck tomato duck scallion spicy duck full flavor duck, mixed duck paw sauce duck bladder, marinated duck gizzard mixed with duck intestine crystal duck tongue phoenix eye duck liver...
© Tan talks about transportation
All parts of the duck are arranged in the best cooking method, pay attention to the visible duck parts one by one, and the invisible duck oil surrounds the whole table, alluding to the beauty of Chinese culture.
This is the true color of Quanjude!
Resources:
1. Beijing Quanjude Roast Duck Restaurant, Beijing Quanjude Famous Recipe, Beijing Publishing House, 1982.7
2. Full Sister, "Beijing Roast Duck Discrimination Guide", Fu Tao Nine Points Full, 2017.5.24
The pictures in this article are partly from the network
Author - Ashu does not eat ice VJ
Design - Heavy rain
Edit - Do not eat ice