▲ Chaoshan area, full of shelves of rice and rice. Photo/Visual China
-Fengwujun Language-
Chase the light, Kun!
In terms of eating, the south and the north have a lot of interesting CPs: south rice north noodles, south (soup) round north (water) dumplings, south stew north roast, south pot north stew...
Regarding the various pastries and snacks, we also found a pair: Nan Kuang Bei Feng.
▲ Lanxi chicken dumplings, similar to the northern "pie" and "vegetable box". Photography / Rokuko lwy, photo / figure worm ・ creative
As a citizen of Jiangnan's Baoyu District, the first kind of "dumpling" eaten was chicken dumplings from Lanxi, Zhejiang. Chicken, that is, eggs, chicken dumplings are a snack made in the dough wrapped in minced meat and green onions, filled with egg liquid and fried in oil.
When I arrived in the north, I found that "dumplings" were everywhere: Gansu Linxia had fried dumplings, that is, the flour was made into various shapes under the frying pan; in the northwest plain of Luxi, Shandong, people collectively referred to various shapes of fritters as "big dumplings", and all kinds of sweet preserves were also called "happy dumplings"; Tianjin pancake fruits should be strictly speaking "pancake dumplings", because the fried "thin and crisp" in the mung bean dough skin is called dumplings.
▲ Shandong Liaocheng "eight batches of dumplings". Photography / Wang Tiger Hunting Novel
It can be seen that pasta made from wheat flour and oiled can be called "steamed". Zhejiang's "chicken dumplings" are made of wheat flour and still retain the heritage of the Central Plains. Turning wheat flour into rice (japonica rice) flour produces a southern version of the dumplings , "kueh".
Today, we will not list the Northern "Gluttony" and only say the Southern "Gluten" people.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > why do you say "Hu Jianyan" love to eat rice? </h1>
In the mountainous areas of Jiangxi, Zhejiang and Anhui, "kun" is still sporadically distributed. Further south, when we reached the area where the Min language was spoken, that is, the "Hokkien dialect", the army of "Kun Kun" hidden among the green mountains and green waters rushed out with the speed of lightning and the speed of stealing bells, which immediately made people dazzled.
▲ In the mountains of southern Zhejiang, sunbathing "yellow rice". Photography / Feng Mubo
Since the end of the Han Dynasty, wars and chaos in the north have been frequent, and the people of the Central Plains have moved south. These southward migrants were too nostalgic for the food of their homeland, so they ground rice into rice flour and rice milk, and forcibly developed noodles, steamed buns, buns, dumplings, and dumplings that were extremely close in form to the food of the northern side...
The southeastern coastal provinces are the main places of migration for northern migrants, the mountains are relatively plains that are both easy to escape disasters and preserve traditional customs, and Fujian is the province with the most dense mountainous areas – so it is not surprising that the cantonese are concentrated in the Min-speaking areas (covering Fujian, Chaoshan, Taiwan, Hainan, the Leizhou Peninsula and parts of Zhejiang, Jiangxi).
<h1 class= "pgc-h-arrow-right" > daily kueh: don't eat for a day and think about panicking</h1>
After thousands of years of development, "Kway" has become a colorful family: in addition to rice, the main ingredient also includes food made of potatoes and taro, and the staple food and dim sum that are usually eaten are staple foods, snacks, and the most time-consuming and laborious "Kway" will not appear until the New Year's Festival.
The koway strips and the kon sauce 丨 meat and vegetarian soup are delicious
Where are the "eating koeh" experts? The people of Chaoshan must have felt that they had the most say. The prevalence of kway teow and kway teow juice in the Chaoshan region is as common as the rice noodles in Shaanxi and rice noodles in Guangxi.
The rice is ground into a pulp, steamed and cut into slender noodles; the rice juice, also known as the rice juice skin, has one more drying or drying step than the rice sticks, and then cut into triangular or quadrangular sheets, the taste is more smooth; the freshly made rice strips, the rice juice skin, directly eat the rice aroma, the original taste, cooking with noodles, can be arbitrarily combined with other ingredients.
▲ Stir-fried beef with kojitsu. Photography / Nikuyamyah
The kway teows (kway teow skin) are blanched in water, with beef, beef offal, meatballs, pork offal, brine eggs, bean sprouts and other side dishes, and can also be added to curry or shacha sauce and other spices according to preferences, which is the most common way to eat;
Chaoshan beef hot pot to the end, the soup has overflowed with the fresh aroma of beef, then the next handful of rice noodles into it, and beef soup to form a wonderful match, no condiments are added, the deliciousness of beef soup is enough to make the appetite full of beef draw a successful end.
▲ Shantou kway teow juice. Photo/Visual China
Kway teow is not divided into morning, middle and evening, especially in Fujian, Hainan, Chaoshan and other areas where it is eaten, 24 hours may encounter stalls selling kway teow.
Don't get me wrong
There is no wife in the wife cake, and there are no mice in the rats!
Because of the different pronunciations, the Hakka pronounce "粿" as "粄" - the rat rice they eat is actually a kind of "kun", which is made of thin and short rice noodles, named after the two pointed ends, shaped like a mouse tail, which can be boiled, fried, and mixed dry. In the Canton area, people also invented a method called "gel", and the taste is extremely elastic, even if only green vegetables and eggs, you can eat it beautifully.
▲ There are no rats in the rat basket. Photography / Big Horned Demon, Photo / MarketMap Network
<h1 class= "pgc-h-arrow-right" > dim sum: good looking and delicious</h1>
To say that it looks good and delicious, there is nothing more than dim sum "kun", the color can be colorful, all taken from nature; the taste can be ever-changing, thanks to the combination of ingredients and condiments.
Saltwater kway and lantern kway nuts
Jiangxi Shangrao's "lantern kway teow", shaped like a small lamp, is filled with snow bean sprouts and fried ingredients, one is not the size of a baby's palm, and several can be eaten in one breath.
The "salty water kway" on Chaoshan Man Avenue, which is the same door as the Jiangxi Lantern Kway Teow Master, is only the ingredient in the "Lantern Lamp", which is replaced by dried vegetable grains, that is, dried radish - the dried vegetables are fried with lard, and a small handful is placed on the kway, which is fresh and flavorful.
Lanterns and salty water are in Shangrao and Chaoshan and are good for children to carry snacks at the school gate after school, and good companions for uncles when drinking tea and blowing water.
▲ "Salt water kway" in the Chaoshan area. Photography/ The Story of the Airplane and the Dragonfly, Photo/MarketMap
The "bowl kway" in Taiwan Province is an enlarged version of the lantern kway or salt water kway, steamed in a special small bowl, the size of a child's fist, salty and sweet, salty and sweet, salty ingredients such as salted egg yolk, shiitake mushrooms, minced meat, dried shrimp and so on.
Bao Rice Kway 丨 Simple Version Intestinal Powder
"粄" comes from Old Chinese, which means to accompany tea to fill the hunger, and is similar in form to the cantonese as a staple food. Many cantonese snacks can also find the corresponding varieties of "dumplings", such as Guangdong's buns, bundles, that is, the steamed rice milk is evenly divided, plus pickles, winter shoots, shredded meat and other fillings, wrapped up to eat, looks a bit like a simple version of intestinal powder.
▲ "Salt water kway" in the Chaoshan area. Photo/ qsbxz5566, photo/market map
This type of food is also common in Gannan, Jiangxi, but the name has become "Bao Mi Kueh".
Vegetable kway teow Who can refuse fried incense?
In the Hakka area of southern Jiangxi, there is also the habit of eating kway teow, and the locals' breakfast contains "eggplant kway", "pickle kway", "pumpkin kway" and so on, in fact, it was originally made of vegetables hanging rice milk and fried in a frying pan.
▲ Gannan eggplant and pickles, have you found it? Photography / Sweet Yi
Vegetables and rice milk are fried in oil, and even the lightest taste immediately becomes full of flavor, the rice milk is crisp, the vegetables are tender, and it is delicious to eat.
Rice kway teow 丨 fluffy version of "rice cake"
Rice is a food that is quite popular in the east and south of Jiangxi and the central and western parts of Zhejiang - in fact, it is a rice cake made of various rice, but the name is different.
▲ Above: Scene of making "Huang Guang" in The Nanshan District of Zhejiang Province, Photo / Liu Lili; The picture below is fried Huang Kueh, courtesy of Qingyuan County Wenguang Tourism and Sports Bureau
In Lishui, Gannan and other places, there is a kind of "yellow rice rice rice" (also known as yellow rice rice, or yellow rice) is dyed with japonica rice and grass and wood ash, the taste is softer and more delicious than glutinous rice cake, can be fried and soupy.
Artwork in a nine-story kuni
In Fujian Minnan and other places, there is a well-known snack called nine-layer rice. Add red and yellow pigments to the rice milk and stack them in red-yellow-white order until they reach nine layers. When eating, it is cut into a diamond shape, and the color layers are clear from the side, and the taste of the food is moist and delicate, soft and sweet.
▲ Minnan "nine-layered kun". Photo/ Minnan family flavor
Coincidentally, there are also exactly the same snacks in Gannan, Jiangxi, but called "nine layers of skin", and the method and taste are the same.
The dessert in "Kway Teow"
Chaoshan is popular in summer to eat grass grits, to southern Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Baodao Taiwan called XianCao jelly or burned xian cao, in hakka areas also called xian ren, in Malaysia and other overseas Chinese called xian cao kun. Straw kway teow needs to be made with rice milk, so there is nothing wrong with calling it "Kway teow".
▲ Burnt fairy grass, also known as grass kway, can be added taro balls, red beans and other ingredients. Photography / melomeloGao, Photo / Figureworm · Creative
No rice rice kun 丨 crystal clear beauty
No rice kway teow, said to be a type of rice-free "kway teow", made of potato flour, belongs to the new members of the "Kway" family, can add leeks, cabbage, potatoes, sugar and other fillings, steamed first, then fried, more sticky than the traditional Kway.
▲ Leek stuffing "no rice kway teow". Photo/Visual China
There is a kind of "crystal kway teow" in the rice-free rice, which is made of sweet potato flour, corn flour and noodles, and the filling is mixed with leeks, carrots, corn, purple potatoes, etc. After steaming, the skin is crystal clear, the kway filling is colorful, and when eaten, it is also drizzled with a spoonful of marinade made with minced garlic, shallots and lard.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > a festive cantonese, a delicacy of dancing with gods and spirits</h1>
Folk beliefs flourish in Fujian and Guangdong, and kueh is indispensable in festivals and sacrifices. In a small fishing village in Shantou called "East Lake", there is a workshop dedicated to providing villagers with a variety of sacrificial kway teows. The small workshop is full of pits and tables full of rice of all colors, sizes, shapes, and sizes, and the situation is breathtaking.
▲ Various kinds of kojiki used for sacrifice. Photo/Visual China
Red peach kon is eaten from the beginning of the year to the end of the year
Because of its beautiful color and festive shapes, the red peach is the most common: it is used for marriage, it is used for children, it is used for the New Year, and it is also used for the first fifteenth day.
▲ "Red peach kway" in Shantou, Guangdong Province. Photo/Visual China
The konko skin is dyed with red koji rice, and the filling inside is also sweet and salty: sweet is red bean paste, and salty is glutinous rice fried with shrimp, preserved vegetables, and shiitake mushrooms.
The freshly steamed red peach is shiny and sticky, sweet and sweet, and it is a delicious snack, while after the ritual of sacrifice and other ceremonies, the red peach is slightly hard after being cooled, wrapped in egg liquid and fried in oil, which is another taste.
The battle cake in the cake cake
Cakes are also necessary for sacrifice, divided into sweet kun, hair kway teow and other kinds, usually made into round cakes - in the early years, every family will do it, and now it is more customized to special kway teow shops, generally weighing more than ten pounds.
▲ The picture above is Minnan sweet rice, photo /Ayou; the picture below is the pumpkin salty kun in southern Fujian, courtesy photo/Xu Xiaochun
Sweet kun and fa moe correspond to different sacrificial needs: sweet kun adds sugar to the noodles, and then steams hot on the pot after the sacrifice, and the hungry children will secretly break a piece to eat, and the sweet flavor is full of mouth;
Fa Yue is a fermented kun, also known as yeast kun, in fact, is commonly known as hair cake - cut into half a centimeter thick, 4 cm square pieces, wrapped in egg liquid fried to eat, fragrant and sweet.
▲ Fa Yue in Meizhou, Guangdong Province, also known locally as Fa Ling. Photography / Ye Guangjie
Sweet and salty can also be combined
Rat koji is a kind of grass that can be used as food dyeing and has a clear fragrance, similar to wormwood, and is always mispronounced as "rat koji" and "rat shell kun", with a frightening jump, thinking that it has something to do with rats.
▲ Koji koji. Photography / Waste wood vial, picture / figure worm ・ creative
The molds for making rats and koji are round, and there are also similar to red peach koway: a small tip on the head, a round belly below; Guangdong, Fujian, and Zhejiang are all localities that make rat koji, and their fillings also vividly embody the creativity of the working people, with salty, sweet, salty and sweet double spelling.
For the southeastern provinces, the Qingming Festival is coming, and the spring of the rats and koji is coming; the winter rats and koji are ripe, and it is time to go home for the New Year.
▲ Can I often see the Qingming Kunjing scenery in the future? Photography / Ye Happy
"Kway" will be passed down from generation to generation in the south, which is full of rice fragrance, because it brings the beauty of the taste buds and the warmth it brings to the years. In the cultural genes, it also silently echoes with the brother of the north, "Rao", interpreting the taste of harmony and difference.
- END -
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