Text: Xiao Peng's brilliant notes
Editor|Xiao Peng's brilliant notes
[Preface]
The Tang Dynasty is a very charming era, with its vast territory, strong military, and prosperous economy, so that the Tang society presents a new look full of self-confidence and personality, and shines on the entire human world with brilliant brilliance.
At the same time, the literature and art of the Tang Dynasty developed unprecedentedly, poetry, songs, paintings, sculptures, music, and dances all made great progress, forming the artistic masterpieces of the prosperous Tang Dynasty.
In addition, the opening policy of the Tang Dynasty also made a few foreign races such as the Northwest Turks, Southern Tufan, Southern Zhaodong, and Northern Bohai directly enter Chang'an, and merged into the Tang Dynasty culture to integrate and bring forth the new.
In the Tang Dynasty, there was also a very famous dance "Neon Clothes and Feather Dance", so many people will be curious, what are the costumes in the Tang Dynasty dance?
【Tang Dynasty】
Chang'an City has a high degree of internationalization, not only through Xinjiang to the west to India, Persia, the Mediterranean land transportation, but also through the South Ocean to the west of the Indian Ocean to the east coast of Africa and the Mediterranean Sea waterway, the east also with North Korea, Japan handover.
Envoys, merchants, monks, students, craftsmen, and dancers from many countries came to see the "high technology" of silk, porcelain, gold and silver making, winemaking, dyeing and weaving in Chang'an City.
At the same time, this heterogeneous culture from all directions also nourishes the spirit of the Tang Dynasty, and makes the culture and art of the Tang Dynasty show a graceful and gorgeous bearing with thousands of postures.
This kind of spiritual temperament of the Tang Dynasty is reflected in the clothing of the Tang Dynasty, showing the warm and unrestrained, gorgeous and colorful style characteristics of the Tang Dynasty clothing.
As recorded in the "New Tang Dynasty Book" "Public Opinion Service Chronicle": (Zhongzong) palace people rode horses from the edge of the car, and the sea was effective, until the police were hired, and the hat was also abolished. ”
There is also a record of "New Tang Dynasty Book" "Astronomical Chronicles": Gaozong tasted the internal banquet, Princess Taiping purple shirt and jade belt, soap Luo folded the scarf, and danced in front of the emperor with seven powerful things. ”
When women in the Tang Dynasty went out in the spring, they often wore green shirts and red skirts, sat on the ground when they encountered green grass and red flowers, and took off the red skirt and hung it into a god called "skirt".
Whether it is the exotic men's clothing of Princess Taiping, or the bird feather woven skirt of Princess Anle, or the women's skirt of aristocratic women, it reflects the gorgeousness, delicacy and boldness of Tang Dynasty clothing.
Therefore, as a stage art, the dance costume not only closely cooperates with the dance art of the Tang Dynasty, but also is a direct embodiment of the atmosphere of the Tang society.
Ancient Chinese dances originated from sacrifices and have strong political overtones, which can be divided into two categories: religious sacrifice dances and entertainment dances.
The dance of the Tang Dynasty is one of the symbols of civilization and prosperity in the Tang Dynasty, there are about sixty or seventy kinds of dances in the Tang Dynasty, which can be divided into court banquet dance, religious sacrifice dance, soft dance and health dance, folk witch dance, technique and song and dance drama.
From the performance form of dance, it can be divided into towel dance, whisk dance, word dance, flower dance, and horse dance.
The variety of dance styles, coupled with the love for music and dance art of Tang Gaozu, Tang Taizong, Tang Gaozong, Tang Xuanzong Yang Guifei, etc., further promoted the development of music and dance in the Tang Dynasty.
The dancers of the Tang Dynasty not only danced beautifully and strangely, but also added charm to them with gorgeous dance costumes and stage designs, showing the luxury and fashion of Tang Dynasty dance costumes.
【General characteristics of dance costumes in the Tang Dynasty】
In general, the music and dance initiatives of the Tang Dynasty were dedicated to serving the royal family and nobles, whether it was a sacrifice or a banquet, a large-scale dance program would be performed.
Therefore, like the dance costumes of other eras, the dance costumes of the Tang Dynasty pursued gorgeous, colorful, alternative and bold.
As we said before, when Princess Taiping danced in front of Tang Gaozong and Wu Zetian, she wore the most typical samurai military uniform and accessories at that time.
Princess Taiping's waist hangs on the "Seven Things", also known as the "Seven Things", which refers to seven items such as a counting bag, a knife, a stone, a deed, a syringe, and a flint bag.
Princess Taiping wore samurai men's clothes and danced, which was the manifestation of the fashion of women wearing men's clothes in the Tang Dynasty, so Tang Gaozong and Empress Wu smiled after watching Princess Taiping's dance: "Women can't be military attachés, why are they dressed for this?"
The dance costumes of the Tang Dynasty are finely made, the colors are bright, the pursuit of strange patterns, the weavers are fine, the dyeing is pure, and the cutting is noble, known as "the heavenly sampling of the human weaving", this wonder is described in the poem "Silk Silk" by Bai Juyi.
【Costume characteristics of the main dances of the Tang Dynasty】
"Neon Clothes and Feather Dance" is the song composed by Xuanzong of Tang Dynasty for Taoism, it is the masterpiece of song and dance in the Tang Dynasty, "Ni Clothes and Feather Dance" was popular for a while in the Kaiyuan Tianbao years, and its dance scene is gorgeous and the music is gorgeous.
In this dance, the dancer is to transform into the appearance of the fairy and dance, and the costume is to create the scene of the fairy riding the colorful clouds, so it is necessary to wear a long skirt, a long ribbon fluttering and winding, and a blouse embroidered with feathers, in order to express the so-called "feather and ascend to the immortal".
When the dancer drags the long skirt obliquely like a Ling Bo microstep, it rotates like a dragon in a hurry, the colorful dance clothes are like wings, the long skirt flutters, and the dancer's ringing jingle sound, just like the scene of colorful clouds surrounding the Ascending Moon Palace.
Therefore, the poet Bai Juyi has "Song of Ni Clothes and Feather Clothes" to praise the clouds: Yan Ruyu, the dancer in front of the case, does not wear other people's vulgar clothes, and the rainbow clothes and xia are shaking the crown, and the young people know that they are tired of Shanshan...... The snow is light, Yanran sends the dragon to frighten, the willow is weak after the small hanging hand, and the oblique skirt is born according to Baiyunsheng
【Costume features of "Takueda Dance"】
The "Tuoba Dance" introduced into the Central Plains from the Western Regions is one of the famous dances of the Tang Dynasty, so the dance comes from the Stone Country of the Western Regions, and the Stone Country is also known as Tuozhi, hence the name.
Originally a solo dance for women, it later developed into a pas de deux, in which the dancers wore a wide robe embroidered with five colors, a bearded hat, a golden bell on the hat made a crisp sound, and a silver belt around the waist swayed with a small sound.
From the Tang poems, "embroidered hat beads embellished with fragrant shirt sleeves narrow cut" (Bai Juyi) gold mist red shirt thin, silver vine hanging purple belt long" (Zhang Ku), "curly brim virtual hat belt hanging, violet shirt like squatting, red brocade boots soft treading knot" (Zhang Ku) "red Luo painting shirt wrapped around the wrist, blue row square back waist (Zhang Ku) point of view.
Tuozhi dancers should wear red or purple narrow-sleeved shirts with gold threads, red brocade boots, long ribbons with hanging flowers around their waists, and a beaded embroidered brimmed hat with gold bells on their heads.
Tuzhi dance movements are bright, good at light and soft movements, showing its superb dance skills, just like Bai Juyi Tuozhi prostitute Yun: red candles move peach leaves, purple shirts move to expand branches, with a weeping crotch flower waist weight, turn the golden bell snow face back.
[Costume characteristics of "Hu Xuan Dance"]
"Hu Xuan Dance" is a folk dance brought from Kangju in the Western Regions, characterized by light movements and rapid rotation, a bit like modern Latin dance.
"Hu Xuan Dance" is the most distinctive dance of the Tang Dynasty, and its accompanying music is mainly percussion and drums, which is very infectious, so it quickly spread throughout Chang'an City.
It is said that Yang Guifei is particularly good at Hu Xuan Dance, and she once led a group of Hu Xuan girls to dance Hu Xuan Dance in front of Xuanzong.
In this kind of dance, the dancers are dressed like rainbows, wearing jade flower crowns, and spinning lightly like catkins.
The dancers of the Hu Xuan Dance are mostly women, there are also three or four dancers, the women hold small leather drums to beat a loud beat, they wear a wide and tight bright long skirt, long sleeves are wide, the waist is tied with various soft long ribbons, green trousers, red leather boots, gold and silver jewelry and long scarves.
When the whirling dance is carried out, the whole body ribbon is elegant, and the ring is jingling in the flying dance, and the audience is dazzled, resulting in the effect of "dancing in the wind and covering the air".
【Costume features of the Tachibu and Sebu dances】
According to the New Tang Dynasty Book, Volume 22 records: (Tang Dynasty music) is divided into two parts, the hall is played, which is called the standing part, and the hall is sitting, which is called the sitting part.
There are six pieces of music and dance, and the scale of the performance is small, as few as three people, and the number of people is no more than 12, and the scale of the performance is large, with as few as 50 or 60 people, and most of them are like the "Shangyuan music" dance, and the number of performers is as many as 180.
The theme of these dances is mostly to praise the auspicious scene of the prosperous Tang Dynasty or to express the prayer for life, and the dance costumes play a role in setting off the atmosphere and highlighting the theme of praise and blessing prayer that the dancers want to express.
For example, the music and dance of the Libu Dance, "Breaking the Array Music", is a serious theme, which wants to express the ancient war scenes and praise the great cause of the first kings to expand the territory and establish the Tang Dynasty.
Therefore, the dancers of one hundred and forty people are all holding long lances and wearing military costumes, and the scene is magnificent and magnificent.
The "Shangyuan Music" dance is a joyful theme, which wants to show the prosperity and brightness of the early Tang Dynasty, so 180 dancers wear costumes with auspicious cloud patterns of various colors, showing the beauty of the sky full of clouds and neon weather on the stage.
"Qing Shang music" dance is the general name of the folk music and dance of the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties and the Sui and Tang dynasties, one is said to be derived from the ancient Shang songs, and the other is said to be derived from the three tones of the Qing Shang in the "Xianghe Song" of the Han Dynasty.
After experiencing the six dynasties of the Han and Wei dynasties to the beginning of the Tang Dynasty, the Qing Shangle continued to absorb the nutrition of folk music and dance, and became more grandiose and grandiose, and was considered to be the "Zhengsheng of China".
What is more special is the early Tang Dynasty's "long live the bird song" dance, which was made during the period of the Empress Dowager Wu, because "the palace can raise birds to speak, and it is often called long live, and it is happy to be like it." ”
During the "Long Live the Bird Song" dance, all three dancers wear crimson large-sleeved dance costumes with the shape of a bird drawn on it, wear a bird-like crown, and sing in imitation of the shape of the bird, like a flock of birds flying in the air.
In short, the Tang Dynasty was an era of thousands of weather, with splendid temples, towering pagodas, warriors riding swords and horses, and women with phoenix crowns, forming a special context of informal and fashionable society in the Tang Dynasty.
On the stage of the Tang Dynasty, the dance costumes of the Tang Dynasty are not only danceable, performative, and exotic, but also can highlight the gorgeous and romantic nature of the Tang Dynasty, and contain the same aesthetic conception as Tang poetry.