To eat seafood in Guangdong, it is necessary to pay attention to umami, taste fresh and then sweet.
One of the biggest features of Cantonese recipes is freshness.
Raw seafood is of course fresh,
But eat it raw, more raw,
Especially fish and shrimp are eaten raw,
It is even more unimaginable to mainlanders in the early years.
So, raw recipes with sorod fish,
It is one of the best ways to see the essence of Cantonese cuisine.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="121" > guangzhou fish raw</h1>
Excerpt from the 7th edition of The Shanghai News, October 8, 1936
Author Moon Dan
Seeing the Place of Guangzhou recently, the fasting of fish raw, although it can not be called a burning piano boiled crane, but it can also be regarded as rare and strange.
Cover Guangzhou's fish raw, for the beauty of food, every August and September, the autumn wind rises, chrysanthemums on the market (Guangzhou floor heating, each flower blooms early, so in August there are chrysanthemums), then the market are selling raw fish.
The so-called fish, not only fish taste only, there must be adjuvant, such as chrysanthemums, radish, jellyfish, etc., about ten species, a common struggle for filaments, fish is cut into thin slices, with sesame oil, soy sauce and other categories, there is a kind of crisp (fried, specially for fish eating), mixed together and eaten, fish is only one-tenth.
However, the price of a plate must be at least five corners, or to one or two yuan, depending on the number of things. For example, in Shanghai and other places, in autumn, the crabs in the other place are often offered to eat, not exclusively in autumn, so the autumn fish is raw, and the crab ears in the south of the River are eaten.
Jiangsu and Zhejiang people regard eating fish raw as strange, do not know the Cantonese people's view of crab eating, but also feel its strangeness.
Yu also eats occasionally in Cantonese, but does not eat often, and after eating raw fish, it is necessary to eat porridge, so as not to cause disease (disease).
Chaozhou also eats raw fish, and its eating method is different from Guangzhou, gai Chaozhou's fish raw, only fish taste, without adjuvant, the stomach strong can eat up to seven or eight plates, and the hipsters also like to eat oysters (shaped like Ningbo's oyster locusts, especially larger), yu can not eat also.
Hangzhou also has raw fish, but the eater is only a small dish, and the fish eater often has a handle, the so-called handle, that is, the fish raw.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="122" > chrysanthemums and fish</h1>
Excerpted from China Business Daily, November 20, 1939, 6th edition
The author occasionally recalls
Chrysanthemum is a type of stevia. "Leaving the Troubles" cloud: "Towards the fall of the drinking Mulan, the fall of the autumn chrysanthemum." "That is this stevia also.
Press stevia, sweet and cool qingli leader, nourish blood and wind, eliminate boils and swelling. It is good to order tea steaming sauce to make wine, but when Cantonese people eat raw fish, they use it as a spice such as using green onion coriander. There are also fish and raw porridge, and chrysanthemum petals are added as spices, and the taste is extremely timeless.
According to the raw fish food method, most of the raw catfish are cut into thin slices, mixed with cooked oil, sesame oil, cinnamon hemp, mustard, pepper, peanuts, lemon leaf shreds, etc., and then shredded with white radish, slightly added carrot shreds, tea melon strips, ginger shreds, etc. as side dishes, served on a large plate, the mixed fish is laid flat on the side dishes, and when eating, the people gather to eat it, the following hot wine, sweet and slippery, quite praised by the general old gourmets, whenever the autumn order, Cantonese people eat this people, he province people are more for its raw food and dare not dare to eat it.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="123" > Lingnan fish porridge</h1>
Excerpted from Nanjing Industry and Commerce News, No. 95, 1948, page 7
Author of West Water Margin
Raw fish porridge is a unique food of Cantonese people, rice is boiled into porridge, cut fresh fish fillets, transparent and smooth, thin like glass paper.
There are two ways to eat: one is to first add a little soy sauce, green onion, ginger shredded, put into a bowl, boil the porridge poured in, hot porridge hot cooked fish fillets, slices of white rolled up, crisp and sweet food;
One is to put the salmon fillet in the dish, inject some cooked peanut oil, ginger shredded, green onion, boiling porridge a bowl, and then three or two slices at any time with chopsticks to dip into the porridge cooked, so that it is more crisp and smooth and delicious than the previous one, and the porridge will not be like the previous one because the fish fillet is soaked in the porridge for too long, resulting in loose pieces.
Cantonese people are accustomed to going to the porridge shop in the morning to eat a bowl of morning porridge, just like the Habit of Westerners eating milk coffee in the morning.
Fresh fish porridge is crisp and sweet, Guangdong eat seafood, need to pay attention to umami, taste fresh and then can be sweet, fish fillets are too cooked, but lost the fresh sweetness, must be properly heated, just enough cooked, you can maintain the umami.
The collection of poems of fish porridge is also one of the customs of Guangdong poets, we have collected a total of seven poems, and they are recorded for people who love to eat fish porridge to enjoy:
"Fish Porridge and Crane Boat Four Songs"
Guangxu Nanhai Wu Yuankui
Slightly awake and drunk to strike Chen Zhuang, Splashing waves to solve the network busy, Zhang Han silver silk Hugh Shu Shu, Wang Weiyu liquid exaggerated pulp.
The peach blossoms are boiled together, the plum is boiling with the taste is longer, the fresh nails are several layers of doubt, and the teeth and teeth are still fragrant for seven days.
Crumb Gui So Ginger is another time, and the wild crane is also called appropriate, he should forget his thirst in the summer rain, and the autumn wind on this day is more thoughtful.
The red carp stack plate meal is the most wonderful, Bai Hong enters the room to drink He Qi, sips and laughs at the double bow rice, and the jade ruler JinSuo makes a cooking.
Hugh sneered at the difficult work, wanted to borrow a fishing barrel from Lu Fang, crabs he could talk about the night moon, clams empty laughing spring breeze.
Fresh fragrant rice box scales white, yan take advantage of the honeysuckle snow grain red, well suck Luling aftertaste is beautiful, turn into butterflies Mo hurried.
Pingzhang three kinds of rambling boasting, sand green is more shocking Moga, mangrove half of the river wants to buy, yellow grain a bowl of dreams are all bad.
Books come to send acacia words in vain, drink away the light and exquisite tea, the flavor of the Song river is wonderful, why do the fairy boil flax.
"Raw Porridge of Wing Fish"
Daoguang Nanhai Luo Tingchen
Red muscle stacked valley net in the squeeze, moving Guiming ginger to take the second row, Mo envy perch flavor is good, peach blossom boiled porridge recommended fresh salmon.
"Fish Porridge Limit Nine Good Rhymes"
Guangxu South Sea He Xiudi
Zhang Hansi returned to the unharmonious, the soup was empty and revived in autumn, and he once knew that the fine spices were fragrant, and the taste was better than the peach blossom porridge. Jade wisps of silver silk products are self-improving, the taste of water and fire is harmonious, why should cold food be sold, and the incense wind of the morning is all over the sixth street.
Wu Shi see "YueBo Lou Poetry Record" (volume 4), Luo Shi see "Recitation Of Fentang Poetry Grass", He Shi see "Thin Garden Poetry Grass" (volume below), the poems of the three can be used to examine the characteristics of Guangdong fish porridge in the Qing Dynasty.
Wu Shi "peach blossom co-boiling love is more beautiful", Luo Shi "peach blossom boiled porridge recommended fresh salmon", He Shi "taste better than peach blossom porridge", it can be seen that the former fish porridge was co-cooked with peach blossoms, and now it has lost this elegance.
Moreover, the poets want to elevate the poetry of raw fish porridge, there are "the flavor of the Song river is wonderful", "Mo envy perch flavor is good", "lettuce soup empty and revive autumn nostalgia", they put the fish raw porridge as the thought of Lingnan sea bass.
The poet for the art of eating raw fish porridge, more from the sense of taste to experience, "fresh fragrant rice frost scale white", "red muscle stacked valley pure", "once knew the fine spice of the incense stick", the fragrance has eaten the teeth for seven days to stay fragrant, morning walking on the street, the fragrance blows back to the nose, and there is another aftertaste.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="124" > morning fish porridge</h1>
Excerpt from the 4th edition of the Electroacoustic Daily, August 24, 1932
Cantonese people are famous for food, just talk about porridge has a lot of species, whether chicken, fish and duck meat, and the types of porridge in the morning afternoon and evening of the day also vary from time to time, in the morning, about always fish porridge the most.
Now I want to talk about fish raw porridge, in the morning if you in the North Sichuan Road Hongkou section, or East Wuchang Road to take away, many of the signs selling porridge shop contact the eye curtain, the sign is particularly eye-catching written "fish raw porridge" three words, the price is about no high, the general is divided into a dime and a half, two corners two kinds, there are several also two and a half kinds, the price difference, just the amount of difference, the taste of porridge is the same.
A bowl of porridge has about four or five pieces of pork liver, four meatballs, four or five pieces of pork powder sausage, in addition to a few pieces of waist flowers, a semi-cooked egg, and four or five pieces of sashimi, and a small plate is used to serve it, which is only put in the porridge when preparing food, because the fish fillet is easy to cook, too cooked to be bad.
In addition, there are chopped fritters and green onions, etc., a bowl of porridge with these many ingredients, is really very rich, and the porridge itself is already very delicious, plus a lot of umami things, more indescribable delicious. Now that the weather is getting colder, eating a bowl of porridge in the morning is really a good morning meal.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="89" > new book quick look</h1>
Since there is a reputation for "food in Guangzhou", if there is no recipe to pass on, how to pass on this fame? "Cantonese Flavor of the Republic of China: The Old Recipe of Cantonese Chefs" is based on the classic Cantonese recipes of the Republic of China, telling the changes of Cantonese cuisine in Guangdong over the past hundred years and telling the changes and invariances of Cantonese cuisine.
"Food in Guangzhou" has been famous as early as the beginning of the last century, but with the passage of time, some well-known famous dishes and food forests that are enjoyed by the citizens have gradually dissipated in people's memories.
In order to inherit and carry forward the Cantonese cuisine culture, Lingnan culture researcher Zhou Songfang spares no effort to sort out the Cantonese recipes of the Republic of China period, so that we can relive the old time of Cantonese cuisine and encounter the vivid and fragrant food stories of Cantonese cuisine in our reading.
Cantonese Taste of the Republic of China
Author: Zhou Songfang
Editor's Recommendation:
Cantonese cuisine gradually became famous with the opening of the port of The Guangdong people to Shanghai Beach, until it developed to the "food in Guangdong" that the people of the whole country yearn for today; Beijing's famous Tanjia cuisine has also found roots in the South China Sea, and this series is to excavate the roots of Cantonese cuisine culture, starting from the "past life" of Cantonese cuisine and finding out the inheritance of Cantonese cuisine culture.
"Cantonese Flavor of the Republic of China: The Old Recipe of Cantonese Chefs" takes the dietary essays of literati diners and experts published in newspapers and periodicals in the early years as the main body, and the author is accompanied by words and appropriate analysis to facilitate the understanding of today's readers; the content includes cooking methods, historical legends, classic dishes, home-style flavors, ingredients, custom banquets, and some recipes and notices of famous restaurants; sometimes narrates things, sometimes comments on dishes, sometimes points out cooking, sometimes arouses people's appetite, and sometimes expresses things... And so on, very impressive.
-end-
Text | Cantonese Taste of the Republic of China
Figure | Great benevolent people
Row | Li Yijun
* Image source network, intrusion and deletion
A group of new and old fans,
Looking forward to walking into the old sheep city with you,
Discover the City of New Flowers
Enjoying Guangzhou, going to Guangzhou is addictive
Produced by Guangdong Tourism Publishing House
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