Nanshi Qiaojiazhai launched this year's Chongyang cake variety
Shanghainese Chongyang Festival to eat Chongyang cake has become a custom, and Shanghai Chongyang cake is more famous shop is "Qiao Jiazhai". According to Old Shanghai, the "Qiao Jia Zha" storefront is actually derived from an unknown historical building in the old city of Shanghai. Before the Chongyang Festival, the reporter conducted a search for this.
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Visiting "Qiao Jia Zha" selling Chongyang cakes before the Chongyang Festival (video program)
<h2>The century-old brand "Qiao Jiazhai" originated here</h2>
Ni Zumin, a veteran newspaperman, Shanghai writer and journalism professor, was born in Qiaojia Road and lived in the old city of Shanghai for most of his life, and his maternal grandfather happened to be the head chef of "Qiao Jiazhai". Ni Zumin told reporters that the century-old brand "Qiao Jiazhai" was developed from Qiao Jiazhai No. 58. So, where was the Qiaojiazha Road, where was the "Qiaojiazha Road" founded in 1909 (the first year of the Qing Dynasty's reunification)? The reporter came to Qiaojia Road, at first did not find Qiaojiazhai Road, after some guidance from nearby residents, finally found this small road with a length of not more than 100 meters (see picture below).
Located in the old city of Qiaojiazhai Road
Ni Zumin told reporters that at that time, "Qiao Jiazha" did everything in business, selling cake dumplings, selling bun steamed buns, selling soup noodles, selling stir-fried vegetables, and also selling glutinous rice soup dumplings, so some nearby residents also called it "Qiao Jia Zha Soup Dumpling Shop". In 2001, when Ni Zumin accompanied Professor Ruan Yisan of Tongji University to visit Qiaojia Road, he could still see the authentic handwriting of the "real Qiaojiazhai" left on the lintel more than a hundred years later, and these five words are still faintly visible after more than a hundred years (see figure below).
The picture on the left shows the appearance of the house at No. 58 Qiaojiazha Road in the 1980s, and the five characters of "real Qiaojiazhai" on the eaves are still faintly visible after more than 100 years (Miao Zhijiang photography)
According to Ni Zumin' recollection:
My grandfather was a great master of cooking, and when he was fifteen or sixteen years old, he came from Songjiang to the old city to take charge of the big rich man. In 1909, at the invitation of an Anhui man named Li Yigao, known as "Little Light Egg", five or six people set up tables and benches next to the fences of Ninghe Road and Qiaojiazha Road in huangpu district and began to establish "Qiaojiazhai". Grandpa and Li surnamed zu were the same Huizhou natives, are fellow countrymen, but the love is difficult, grandfather resigned from the rich and noble, joined the founding of "Qiao Jiazhai". In the summer of 1955, my grandfather died of small intestines (hernias) in the "Xiu Ren Tang" at 273 Qiao Jia Road. After the public-private partnership in 1956, "Qiao Jiazhai" moved to the old West Gate for business. In my memory, my grandfather was of medium stature, and in my mind, he looked very similar to his cousin Li Ada, with a bronze face, like a countryman, and the clothes he wore were greasy all day, and he cooked a good dish.
At that time, in the corner of the west wall in front of the "Qiao Jiazhai", there was a very high square small table, and the cage on the table was specially taken out of the bean paste buns, meat buns, etc., and the inside of the store was to eat soup noodles or stir-fry vegetables. The diagonal door is a material making room. I often go to Joe's house to rub and eat. I remember, once my grandfather led me to the shop and sat down at a very low square table in the opposite ingredient room, he took a long-handled pot and spoon, ran to the stove, scooped up a bowl of braised chicken nuggets for me, and said, "You eat it all!" "I swept away this bowl of chicken nuggets in three strokes and five divisions."
<h2>Qiao JiaZha was originally a fence set up by the Qiao family hundreds of years ago</h2>
The reporter found two fence stone pillars on the east and west sides of the intersection of Qiaojiazhai and Guangqi South Road, of which one on the left passed through the roof of the hut, and the right one was surrounded by a stainless steel fence, but there was no signage or text description. The reporter stopped several passing citizens and friends at the intersection, who said that they had not paid attention to the fence pillars and did not know the historical background of the building.
There are two fence stone pillars on the east and west sides of the intersection of Qiaojiazhai and Guangqi South Road, of which one on the left passes through the roof of the hut
The two stone pillars painted in the Qing "Picture Daily" may be the Qiao family fence (provided by Ni Zumin)
Some people call these two stone pillars located in the old city box Qiao Jiazhai, so why are these two stone pillars not called Li Jiazhai and Zhang Jiazha, instead of Qiao Jiazha? Ni Zumin believes that in the old days, there were boundary monuments on land and fences on waterways. The so-called Qiao Family Fence is obviously the fence set up by the Qiao family there. When "Qiao Jia Zha" opened, it was also reasonable to use the fence as a store sign and enterprise recognition.
As a descendant of the Qiao family, the famous performance artist Qiao Hazel gave an authoritative explanation in the preface to the book "The Story of Qiao Jia Lu", according to him, the establishment of the fence that year was related to the Qiao family:
I am a member of the Shanghai Qiao clan, "far away from the Hua, the clan is large and prosperous", the Qiao family came to Shanghai from the north at the end of the Yuan Dynasty, and the heirs have been extended for more than 600 years. At the end of the Yuan Dynasty and the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, my ancestor Qiao Yanheng III brought his sons Qiao Zhen and Qiao Gang from Chuansha to Yizhi to live. In 1568, after the Qiao Mu X Zhongjinshi of the Qiao family became the Taishou of Ji'an, from his generation onwards, the Qiao clan slowly migrated from Chuansha to the city to live.
The current place of Qiao Jia Road was a river bang at that time, and the ancestors of the Qiao family successively built the "Qiao Family Ancestral Hall", "Xiu Ren Hall", "Ye Yuan", "Most Happy Hall", etc. here, circled the "Ancestral Cemetery" of the Qiao Family, and set up the Qiao Family Fence - the famous Haipai Century-old Restaurant "Qiao Jia Zhai" is named after it.
Two fence stone pillars, and only one gets
Ni Zumin hopes that in the future, when Qiaojia Road is carried out in the overall planning and transformation, the two fence stone pillars on the east and west sides can be fully displayed, and it is recommended to demolish the private building with the stone pillar on the left to restore the original appearance of the stone pillar; in addition, the fence stone pillar can be hung with a nameplate and have a text description, so that future generations can understand the unique history of the old city.
<h2>The word "grid" has four pronunciations</h2>
So, how should Qiao Jiazhai read it? Ni Zumin believes that in our common Chinese characters, it is not surprising that there are two or three pronunciations, but there are very few words with four pronunciations, such as the "grid" character of Qiao Jiazha. In the dictionary, both zhà and shān are read, and shà and cè are also read.
In Qiaojiazha Road, the reporter met an old gentleman who passed by, who told the reporter that he had lived near Qiaojiazha Road for decades and would walk from here almost every day. The reporter asked the old man to read Qiao Jiazha in Shanghainese and Mandarin respectively, and the old man read it (shān), and when the reporter pointed to the pronunciation (zhà) on the street sign to tell the old man, the old man said that he had always read it this way.
The word "grid" in Qiao Jiazhai has four pronunciations
Ding Dimong, a professor of linguistics at Shanghai University, explained that the word "grid" in Qiao Jiazhai has three pronunciations in "Guangyun":
First, the feast. Pronounced in Mandarin, it is shàn. It means fence, which is fence.
Second, measure the halberd cut. Pronounced cè in Mandarin. However, according to the reverse tangent pronunciation, Shanghainese is ci (i is Yiyin). It means village fence.
Three, Chu Geche. Pronounced in Mandarin, it is also cè. But according to the reverse tangent pronunciation, Shanghainese is cak. It's an inset word. It means to erect a wooden fence.
From the "Explanation of Words": "Grid: weaving trees also." From wood, from book. Book also sound. ”
Now it seems that the third pronunciation of "Guangyun" is the orthophone. The first and second should belong to the dialect transliteration. There is a street outside the front gate of Beijing, called Dashilar. Beijingers call it the Big City (Shi) Column. This is because the Beijing dialect has a lot of rhymes and often makes lazy sounds, which weakens the rhyme of shàn. After the sh vowel is issued, it is directly connected to the column.
Qiao Jiazha from: Ding Di Meng 00:0000:15
Ding Dimong read Qiao Jiazha aloud in Mandarin and Shanghainese
Qiao Jia Zha used the "fence" pattern as a store marker. Shanghainese people read S vowels, adding the sound of "book" next to the sound. Pronounced the same as "sak". There is a place in Zhongshan County, Guangdong Province, called Shangzha and Xiazha. Locals read cec (booklet). Wuzhen, Zhejiang Province, has Xizha, Dongzha and Nanzha, and this "fence" is pronounced zak (za).
Pronunciation IV is the technical term "shān" used in the electronics industry, which refers to the electrode closest to the cathode in the shape of a filament mesh or spiral in a multipolar tube, which has the strength of the current at the plate pole and changes the performance of the tube.
<h2>Feel the on-site production process of Chongyang Cake</h2>
The reporter located on Qiaojia Road and found that the nearest Qiaojiazhai store was displayed in Yu garden. In Yuyuan Old Street, located in Yu garden, we found the Qiaojiazhai store in Nanshi. The clerk told reporters that in addition to the classic osmanthus sesame muffin and osmanthus bean sand muffin, this year launched several new flavors such as peach flesh muffin mint mung cake mulberry lotus muffin.
Located in The Yu Garden, Qiaojiazhai in Nanshi
The dim sum chef in the store showed us the production process of making Chongyang cake (see the picture below and the video above), serving the cake, loading the mold, entering the electric steamer, and the three Chongyang cakes that have just come out of the cage are still steaming, making people love it and can't bear to eat it.
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The Chongyang cake made for us by the dim sum chef on the spot is very much appreciated
Square and plum-shaped Chongyang pastry
For the display of two different shapes of Chongyang cakes in the store, Zhang Guisheng, vice president of the Shanghai Food Culture Research Association, told reporters:
Plum blossom-shaped pastries are our common Chongyang cake, formerly also called plum blossom cake, in fact, this kind of cake is Shanghainese people eat all year round, Chongyang Festival is specially used as a gift to the elderly, so it is also called Chongyang cake, shou feast is also commonly used, also known as shou cake, square pastry for Shanghai Su-style pastry, named square cake.
<h4>Friendly reminder</h4>
Dear readers, the Chongyang Festival is coming, remember to buy a Chongyang cake for the elderly at home!
Source: Thoughtful