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The big man behind Jiangnan Cloth: Li Lin and her business empire

author:PROLOGUE
The big man behind Jiangnan Cloth: Li Lin and her business empire

This eerie promotional photo, which aroused people's strong dissonance, directly linked the system to a fantasy and grotesque movie from Spain, "Skin".

One of the protagonists of the film is a girl born without eyes, who grew up in Dean J and was forced to receive guests at a very young age.

One day, a middle-aged uncle who patronized her gave her a pair of pink diamonds, and since then, diamonds have become her eyes.

The big man behind Jiangnan Cloth: Li Lin and her business empire

Surprisingly, this appetizing "art publicity photo" turned out to be from China's only listed clothing design brand, "Jiangnan Cloth".

Recently, a netizen posted that the children's clothing under Jiangnan Cloth is printed with the words "WELCOME TO HELL" (welcome to hell), "LET ME TOUCH YOU" (let me touch you), and is also equipped with various inferno, car cracks, and other inappropriate patterns.

The big man behind Jiangnan Cloth: Li Lin and her business empire

With the hot discussion and attention of netizens, more and more black history of Jiangnan cloth has been pulled out.

The big man behind Jiangnan Cloth: Li Lin and her business empire

The English words printed on this down jacket mean: "These are all Indians, I will beat them to pieces with a gun", and "Mom and Dad, I have been shot into a sieve, save me, I am going to die!" ”

A series of black patterns representing Blood X, Violent L, Color Q, Race, etc., were impressively printed on children's clothing and sold publicly on major websites, instantly triggering the anger of the people!

Jiangnan Buyi's understatement and insincere apology is constantly exploring the bottom line of the public!

Who are they in charge? What is their base? Which groups are consuming their home's clothes?

For a time, all the spearheads were aimed at the founder and designer behind Jiangnan Cloth - Li Lin.

And Li Lin and Li Lin's business empire also surfaced.

The big man behind Jiangnan Cloth: Li Lin and her business empire
The big man behind Jiangnan Cloth: Li Lin and her business empire

In the early 1990s, Li Lin of the Department of Chemistry at Zhejiang University met Wu Jian, a senior two years older than her.

Soon, the two began to fall in love and then married.

Wu Jian, who majored in refrigeration equipment and cryogenic technology, was assigned to the oil field in the north after graduation.

Li Lin was assigned to the chemical plant.

However, the two believed that being a screw in a state-owned enterprise could not exert their own energy, and finally chose to leave their jobs to start a business.

In 1994, the couple opened a small shop in the Hangzhou clothing market.

At first, Li Lin bought and retailed from Guangdong, and then tried to design and set up a production line by herself.

The business of the two grew rapidly, and a year later they established Gangnam Buyi and registered the JNBY trademark.

The work team of Jiangnan Buyi once commented that Li Lin is a typical "point thinking", with pictures and rapid associations but not landing.

Wu Jian is quite rational, and he always pays attention to whether Li Lin's ideas are operable.

Therefore, they have a clear division of labor.

Wu Jian is responsible for formulating the company's overall development strategy and supervising the company's operations, while Li Lin is responsible for the design and innovation of the company's clothing business and controlling the overall direction of products.

It was this golden pair that made Jiangnan Cloth successfully listed in Hong Kong in 2016.

A small shop was transformed into a group with an annual output value of more than 3 billion yuan.

So far, Jiangnan Cloth is the only clothing brand listed in Hong Kong.

The big man behind Jiangnan Cloth: Li Lin and her business empire

Li Lin

Li Lin once said in an interview that JNBY's style is designed according to her own interests, which makes their clothes completely different from the domestic women's clothing that followed the rules in the same period.

Simple and low-key, with a sense of design, with literary style, healthy and natural.

These labels quickly cater to the tastes of the domestic high-end group and are known as the typical representatives of Hangzhou women's clothing.

It can be said that it is Li Lin's unique understanding and aesthetic of art that has created Jiangnan cloth.

So, who is Li Lin?

The big man behind Jiangnan Cloth: Li Lin and her business empire

Li Lin was born in 1970 at No. 42 Jiefang Road in Hangzhou.

Her father was a teacher at Hang Er Middle School, and several members of the family lived in the faculty dormitory.

It was an old wooden house from the early days, with two floors and five bays, and several families living next to each other.

The big man behind Jiangnan Cloth: Li Lin and her business empire

The original view of the dormitory is reproduced.

She has a younger brother, and the sister-brother relationship is very harmonious.

The floor of the house is covered with wooden floors, and the two like to make bunks on summer evenings.

The large window, they could see as soon as they probed, the pickles and sauce meat on the tile roof.

The big man behind Jiangnan Cloth: Li Lin and her business empire

Li Lin's younger brother, Li Ming

In the year she graduated from elementary school, she encountered the demolition of the dormitory, and the family moved to a small courtyard a few streets away.

She had a little cousin of similar age who often visited her house because she lived close to the yard.

The little cousin was a young man of literature and literature, and often mentioned to her the names of masters such as Simone de Beauvoir.

She and her brother were intrigued, and the three children drank apricot cocktails and talked about existentialism all night.

This is probably her literary enlightenment.

The small courtyard where they lived for a few years also began to be demolished, and the family went to their father's school for several years, until the newly built staff dormitory on the original site was built and the family moved back.

At that time, Jiefang Road was very narrow, and Li Lin had never run out of the land of the 42-wall gate from the founding of the People's Republic of China to the Hangqi Middle School.

The school is next door to the house, and when you hear the class bell, it is too late to run from home.

The sycamore trees at the door of the wall are connected, and there is a small wall door in the right hand corner of the door, and then in the direction of Jianguo Road, you can walk to the Kwai Lane Department Store.

The big man behind Jiangnan Cloth: Li Lin and her business empire

1996 Jiefang Road near Kui Lane

Grandma often led her sisters and brothers to transfer to department stores, and every time Li Lin went, she had to pick a handkerchief to buy home, striped, patterned...

At that time, when she was a child, she already had a collection habit of patterns and colors.

At most, she saved more than 100 handkerchiefs.

Sometimes Grandma would say, "I have this flower color at home." ”

Li Lin would tell her grandmother, "It's not the same." ”

When I went home, it was different.

At that time, the clothes at home were all made by my mother, but the designer was Li Lin.

She often led her mother to choose fabrics, and then the two of them designed styles together.

Once, Li Lin did not know what to be inspired by, and she was bent on asking for a suit collar.

"The collar should be so big—" she said as she drew a line.

Mom desperately objected, telling her it was definitely not good-looking.

But she insisted on doing so, and her mother still followed her.

Finally the clothes were made.

Li Lin said: "It is really not very good-looking." ”

Where did a chemistry girl's artistic talent come from, probably can be traced back to the source here.

Li Lin's childhood was not smooth.

The big man behind Jiangnan Cloth: Li Lin and her business empire

In the second year of junior high school, Li Lin returned to her hometown for funerals, and when she returned two weeks later, she found that the atmosphere in the class had inexplicably changed.

The classmates who usually play together began to besiege Li Lin.

Overnight, Li Lin was isolated!

One day, Li Lin and her brother rode home on their bicycles.

A girl came running up to her and laughed at her, "I heard they don't deal with you anymore?" ”

What made her sad was not the girl's bad words at that time, but her brother's question, "Sister, why are we both bullied by others at school?" ”

At that time, my mother's factory was far from home and only returned on weekends.

Dad was extremely strict with Li Lin, and she didn't dare to talk to him when she encountered something.

In this way, throughout her adolescence, she shared a kind of private loneliness with her brother.

The big man behind Jiangnan Cloth: Li Lin and her business empire

Illustrated comic strip artist, works by Mr. Zheng Kaijun

In 1988, at the age of 18, Li Lin was admitted to college.

At that time, she was bent on running outside.

Go to Shanghai, go to Beijing, go to learn furniture design.

But my father's request was only one: that is, he could not leave Hangzhou.

Because he thinks that his daughter is not his daughter when she goes to a foreign country.

Li Lin called this, controlled love.

Li Lin finally listened to her father's advice and volunteered to fill in Zhejiang University, industrial electrical automation, obey the assignment.

To comfort her daughter, that summer, her mother took her by train to Beijing and Dalian for a trip, and then took a steamship back to Shanghai.

This was Li Lin's first time out of the door, which made her extremely happy.

Two months later, she entered the Chemistry Department of Zhejiang University.

This was obviously not in line with her interests, and for this reason, she also specifically sought out the leaders of the department, hoping to transfer to the liberal arts major, but unfortunately did not succeed.

Perhaps there is providence in the darkness, officially because she filled in Zhejiang University, became the vice president of the student union of the department, and participated in the editing of poetry journals, she met her future life partner and career partner - Wu Jian of the Energy Department of Zhejiang University.

The big man behind Jiangnan Cloth: Li Lin and her business empire

In the first year of college, Li Lin lived a fragmented and chaotic life.

She entered a township enterprise with poor equipment and facilities, and then went to the northeast to find opportunities and jumped around.

After returning to Hangzhou, she went to help a middle school classmate to see the store.

One day, a female customer felt that she was very close to Li Lin, so she invited her to work in her own chemical company.

Soon after Li Lin joined, she encountered a situation in which the company was not well managed and the boss was ready to close the door.

Li Lin suddenly made a bold decision, that is, to contract this company!!

Once, she took the train to Guangdong alone to collect debts, and the money did not come back, but brought back a batch of clothing.

Under the wrong circumstances, the company's store department became a clothing store.

The big man behind Jiangnan Cloth: Li Lin and her business empire

When the clothing store first started, it also encountered many difficulties and troubles.

The shop they opened on Yan'an Road was first pit by the second landlord to pay for rent, and then the power was cut off by the big landlord.

There are also customers who come to the store to steal clothes directly quarrel with the clerk, and finally the TV station is coming, Li Lin is angry, but she wants to give the staff a head and run to the "Youth Times" to complain.

That's it, after experiencing many tribulations, Jiangnan Buyi continued to go!

Many times, some of Li Lin's wild thoughts seem a little dangerous to others.

The "Tianmuli Project" is one of them.

The original intention of building the building was that she was very dissatisfied with her original office building.

She wanted to find an office environment that was more in line with the temperament of Jiangnan cloth, but she found a lot of places and never found a suitable target.

So she decided to build it herself!

The big man behind Jiangnan Cloth: Li Lin and her business empire

In 2015, Toshiaki Toshiaki Toshiaki Tsano and Renzo Piano and the design team discussed the plan with Li Lin, founder of Gangnam Buyi, and the artistic director of Tenmeri Art Museum.

The big man behind Jiangnan Cloth: Li Lin and her business empire

In the Tianmu under construction

Building an office building is the same as making clothes.

She wants to do it to the extreme.

Built according to the minimum plot ratio - 130,000 square meters can be built, and 50,000 square meters of office buildings can be built.

"With low density and low construction costs, I can build a beautiful house."

Of course, on the contrary, the floor price will also go up.

Fortunately, her husband calculated the details from a business point of view, and only then did he determine the compromise plan and create a landmark building.

She said:

What Hangzhou lacks is not an art crowd, but such an infectious cultural space, Tianmu, it will become a cultural concept, a way of life, and send nutrients to the city.

These words are enough to see that a woman's vision, temperament and heart!

The big man behind Jiangnan Cloth: Li Lin and her business empire

With the development of the company, Jiangnan Cloth changed its name to JNBY, which is both an abbreviation for Chinese and redefines its connotation - Just Naturally Be Yourself.

Its children's clothing has also been labeled as "free, imaginative, happy and authentic".

However, from the perspective of subsequent development, Jiangnan Cloth is contrary to this original intention.

In recent years, JNBY has repeatedly caused trouble with design, and the clothing, bags and promotional materials launched by many of its brands have been repeatedly pointed out to be suspected of creative plagiarism.

Now it has been revealed that there are revealing, weapons and X-suggestive patterns on children's clothing, which can be said to be a complete overturn!

Some netizens found that the children's clothing products designed to "roll over" this time involve multiple series listed from 2017 to 2020, and the price is not cheap.

The retail price of adult tops is 160-15800 yuan, and bottoms are 360-1695 yuan;

The price of children's clothing is 160-1990 yuan, and the bottom is 185-795 yuan.

So, who did this batch of "Dark Series" Jiangnan cloth clothes sell to?

Why has this group of consumers not noticed anything out of the ordinary?

With the rise of social platforms, Jiangnan Buyi has built an interactive retail platform based on WeChat, which carries out fine operations on users and is committed to cultivating a "fan economy".

Its prospectus shows that since the platform's launch, it has attracted an average of 40,000 new members per month.

These so-called "old fans", they recognize the brand design concept, naturally trust the brand, have a strong stickiness, let Jiangnan cloth muffled to make a lot of money, but also let them more unscrupulous.

Most of these dark patterns are more abstract, or presented in a large-area print, if not carefully looked at, it is easy to be disguised by the rich color of the base color block, and is regarded as an ordinary design element.

Like the nude T pattern on the puffy skirt below, it's easy to overlook without pulling away the fabric folds.

The big man behind Jiangnan Cloth: Li Lin and her business empire

Consumers tend to overlook, but designers don't.

The meaning implied by these patterns is like a mirror in their hearts!

The likelihood of saying it was a mistake is too low.

You know, the design of a dress, including the pattern, color, English letters or foreign languages on it, the designer will consult and submit it to the design team leader for review.

Heavyweight clothing companies like JNBY would never make such a low-level mistake!

And the following, extremely uncomfortable photos abound, and this mistake will be made again and again!

The big man behind Jiangnan Cloth: Li Lin and her business empire

Of course, There is also a response from the Jiangnan cloth side.

They claim that most of the design inspiration for these motifs comes from classical paintings from around the world.

For example, the image material of the male and female L body and the lower T on the dress is from Hieronymus Bosh's "Paradise on Earth", showing the process of human beings from Adam and Eve's original sin to entering hell.

However, even if there is nothing wrong with designing artistic patterns on clothing, it is obviously unreasonable to apply it to "children's clothing", and it can even be said that it is bad intentions!

The pictures, brushstrokes and compositions of the works all represent what the designer thinks.

The designers who designed and photographed these patterns can see the dirty darkness in their hearts.

I don't understand, why should Jiangnan Buyi cover up such a designer?

As mentioned earlier, most of the design of Jiangnan Cloth is mostly Li Lin's creativity.

So many netizens speculated that the inspiration for this "children's clothing" was from Li Lin's hand, at least she participated in many links such as reviewing the manuscript.

But so professional, can she really not understand these sensitive and imagery elements?

The big man behind Jiangnan Cloth: Li Lin and her business empire

The vitality of a brand is closely related to the ideas of the person in charge.

Jiangnan Buyi is now facing such a dilemma, and Li Lin cannot escape the blame.

The big man behind Jiangnan Cloth: Li Lin and her business empire

The boy in the picture is Li Lin's son.

It was a family going to Tokyo to play, the adults were shopping, and only the youngest son was concentrating on lying in front of the store, immersed in painting.

His sister captured the moment and sent a circle of friends commemoration: The kid is busy drawing for money

Li Lin said that creation will affect his son's personality, and this influence is of course good.

What I want to say is that the creation of Jiangnan Cloth influences not only the children of consumers who trust her.

The influence of art is enormous and terrifying, and its depth is incalculable.

As a Chinese entrepreneur, as the chief designer of Jiangnan Cloth, and as the mother of a pair of children, Li Lin should shoulder the responsibility of caring for Chinese children.

Even if the human world does not do anything, please do not add fire to the dark hell and raise your salary!

The big man behind Jiangnan Cloth: Li Lin and her business empire
The big man behind Jiangnan Cloth: Li Lin and her business empire

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