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preface
Zeng Shiqiang once said: "The more fashionable a person is, the less he is like a person." ”
Many people have expressed puzzlement or even scoffed at this sentence, but I believe that after watching this year's Burberry 2023 spring/summer show, people will agree with Zeng Lao's words.
There is no other reason, but because this pair of "open pants" is too spicy!
Open pants, naked chest clothing, this year's high-luxury show is more than one strange, is exposure fashionable?
01, spicy eyes of "open pants"
Fashion catwalk is a form of people's interpretation of beauty, and it is also the most beautiful expression of clothing on the beautiful body of human beings.
Through the display and performance of clothing models, people feel this vitality, and thus feel life and beauty, which is the best state that fashion models should achieve.
But the current fashion circle seems to have changed its appearance, making people more and more incomprehensible.
Burberry, one of the fashion and luxury brands, issued several concept statements before the show, and the gimmicks of "British new style" and "bold subversion of tradition" can be said to whet the audience's appetite.
However, what everyone did not expect was that Burberry not only subverted the "tradition", but also subverted the three views of most people.
I saw that the model on the runway was wearing a tights, the upper body and legs were tightly wrapped, but the crotch opened a large opening, revealing the position of the base of the thigh.
The designer seems to be afraid that everyone will not pay attention to the "key part", and the crotch is specially engaged in the shape of a "heart", which makes it difficult to notice such a visual effect.
The private parts of the model are tightly wrapped in thin fabric, and the outline of the triangle area and butt is clear, and many viewers call it "hot eyes" and "can't look directly".
The designer's answer was: "My inspiration for this design is the beach, and the idea is to explore the freedom of the human body." ”
Beach clothing is not wrapped from head to toe, only the crotch is exposed! Such a sky-high response obviously cannot make the audience empathize.
This design runs almost throughout Burberry's show, from pink suspenders to black corsets, from black and white stripes to beige polka dot wind, these clothes seem to be just a change of color, "tight + open" gives people the illusion of "changing soup without changing medicine".
Such a design, not like a new fashion concept, but like a big game of "edge ball", no wonder some netizens complained:
"Such a design, I am afraid that it is not a perverted designer who is satisfying his own selfish desires!"
"Women from designer families should wear it, and then the global live catwalk should be live!"
Perhaps it is that "mortals" such as me really do not understand this "high-class" fashion, and it is difficult for Burberry's designers, such a "pioneer" concept, which is ridiculed by the group as "baby diapers".
02, the strange "naked chest suit"
On the "strangeness" of today's runway clothing, in addition to Burberry's "hot-eyed" open pants, the old brand is luxurious: Alexander McQueen's "bare-chested suit" is also "unacceptable".
Just last month, Alexander McQueen's closing show at Paris Fashion Week sparked a stir of heated discussion because the models' clothes were too revealing to be unsightly.
All the models wore corset skirts on their lower bodies, but when the camera moved to the upper body, it was somewhat unusual.
The model's upper body is almost completely bare, there is fur around the neck, and the arms wear one-sleeves, which can be exposed everywhere, but the key parts of the chest seem to be forgotten, so the supermodels have to hold their chests and manually "cover up".
The better one is to tie a feather on the chest, but this kind of "dewy" dress is even more easy to think.
Top models from China, Liu Wen and He Cong, were not spared.
The eldest cousin Liu Wen came on stage with two crossed thin belts tied on her chest, and her upper body exposed a large body, which not only exposed the shortcomings of her skeleton being too large, but also made the subtle beauty of Oriental women on her body disappear.
You know, Liu Wen is known as "China's first real supermodel", her beauty is undoubted, a closer look at Liu Wen's face shape will find that she has the unique arrogance and cold temperament of Oriental women.
This kind of dress with two straps crossed on her chest is undoubtedly a minus for her.
Coupled with the previous incident of Liu Wen sticking yellow eyelashes very much like "squinting", she was accused of "catering to the West", and the controversy that lingered on her this time is only increasing.
After Liu Wen, the new Chinese supermodel He Cong showed more boldly, I saw her wearing a black dress, with a circle of black fur around her arms, black is undoubtedly a "high-grade color", He Cong's cold and steady aura is also well set off.
But He Cong's entire upper body is in a state of vacuum, although He Cong's expression is very in place, which can make people feel her aura, but the hands held on the chest are really "imaginary".
For this kind of "naked" clothing, the online condemnation is also endless:
"Forgive me, I can't appreciate such beauty."
"Dressed like this for the catwalk? What the hell is she showing? ”
"Since you're all dressed like this, don't cover it..."
There are even netizens who are worried about what to do if the model falls?
It's no wonder the audience thinks so, after all, there are not few cases of falls on the runway, and even supermodels are not new because of this.
Such a strange design makes people wonder, who are the supermodels trying to please when they go on the stage shirtless? Some people even pointed out directly: "The more I look at it, the more I feel that the show is treating women as ornamental animals." ”
"Disrespect for women" has become the biggest controversy of this show, but in the face of controversy, Alexander McQueen gave a response: the design concept of this season's new products is "de-gendering", so it is necessary to express a comfortable and comfortable clothing attitude with a natural human body.
Such a response is obviously "adding fuel to the fire", some people question, models hugging their chests and walking the catwalk, how can such an unbalanced walk reflect comfort?
This kind of almost nude clothing design, if you can prevaricate in the cloak of "weakening gender", then the "coconut tree brand coconut water" that was scolded some time ago is too unjust, after all, people's advertisements are wearing serious bodybuilding clothes.
Art can be sunny and snowy, or it can be under the lipa people, although it is not necessary to cater to everyone's aesthetics, but this practice of brushing the edges and taking vulgarity as fashion is really unnecessary.
Last year's Paris Fashion Week's Coperni show staged a bold "live dressing".
3. Bold "dressing on the spot"
Does the skirt on this model look very close to her figure? If you're still wondering which designer this is from, you're wrong, because the dress was sprayed on the runway.
On that day, supermodel Bella Hadid, naked, wearing only a nude pair of transparent panties and high heels, took the stage with her hands on her chest, followed by two staff members, holding two airbrushes to make clothes for her.
I saw the female model standing calmly on the stage, her expression calm and cold, two staff members standing on both sides of her, one left and one right spraying on her, first spraying above, then spraying below, the white material sprayed out was like a spider's web on the model's body, and soon condensed into pieces.
Within a few minutes, a pure white dress was formed, and after the staff trimmed it, a sexy white dress with a split appeared on the model.
The hem of the skirt sways gently as supermodel Bella Hadid walks, which looks very textured.
I have to say that this "high-tech" clothing technology is indeed breathtaking and worth studying and promoting.
But is it really necessary to put it on the runway and let the model not wear clothes to match the display of this dress?
Obviously you can choose to use a light undershirt to cover the model's shame, but you have to let the model go naked, is such a catwalk to show off clothes, or do you hesitate to use such a "lower three-way" gimmick for the sake of fame?
4. Male models can't escape
Perhaps the gimmick on the female model has earned enough, and the high-luxury brand party has extended the "poisonous hand" to the male model.
The most famous is Burberry's "good man does not pack second milk" T-shirt, which pulls out two holes in the chest, which is really confusing.
Interestingly, the designer of this dress is the same person as the designer of the open pants above, and it is rumored that the designer's various "thunder" designs have brought too much controversy to Burberry, and has been dismissed.
Open pants regardless of gender, male models in battle, can even be more "spicy" than female models.
I saw the male model wearing a black jacket on the upper body "covering the chest and showing the breasts", and the crotch of the lower body was hollowed out, making an "open" design, such clothes are really difficult to look at directly.
There is also this male model, the royal blue jacket is normal and good-looking, but the lower body is wearing boxer shorts and stocking shoes of unknown meaning.
It can be seen from the model's slightly reddish complexion that even the model himself does not dare to compliment such a design!
And this suffocating "corset" costume brought great visual impact to the audience.
The male model below once again refreshed the audience's three views, and actually wore a belly pocket and a short skirt to walk the catwalk, this golden flash, I am afraid that it is not to blind the audience's eyes.
And a few years ago, in the show of Xander Zhou's 2016 spring/summer collection, it was also a male model wearing a belly pocket printed with Chinese pattern elements on the stage.
Belly pocket is ancient Chinese women's underwear, which is not suitable for external display, designers still have to wear male models to show, what does this "fashion" want to express?
The integration of Chinese and Western innovation and development is a good thing, but I also hope that foreign designers will do their homework and stop having such a big misunderstanding of Chinese style...
Some people also question whether such clothes will affect the domestic dressing style?
In general, the clothes on the runway will not be worn on the street, firstly because they do not fit, and secondly, because they are inconvenient.
But don't forget that the runway of high-end brands is the beacon of the entire fashion circle, leading the development of international trends.
The clothes on the runway will not affect daily life, but there is no guarantee that the design trend of the clothing industry will not be affected, and an emerging fashion brand is obviously a representative.
At the London fashion show this spring, the emerging fashion brand launched "half-off" jeans, the model on the runway "wears" a pair of pants hanging on the knee, the male model's thighs and panties are clearly visible, if you don't know that this is a catwalk, I am afraid that you will be arrested as a hooligans.
Designing the waistline of the pants to the knee, the designer is really a "genius".
epilogue
There are a thousand Hamlets in the eyes of a thousand people, aesthetics is indeed a very subjective thing, seeking common ground while reserving differences, opening up the pattern, and respecting the aesthetics of others, although it is worth everyone to learn and obey.
But the "fashion show" in the article that is fashionable with vulgarity and elegant with vulgarity makes people really dare not compliment.
Zeng Lao's words are certainly controversial, but in such a "fashion circle", it really can no longer be described appropriately.
Fashion has a threshold, but the public also has aesthetics, and all kinds of chaos in the fashion circle should be paid attention to, so don't let this kind of "exposure" style of brushing the edge, in the name of "returning to nature and de-gendering" to grandstand again.
What do you think about this? Welcome to leave a message in the comment area below.
Wen | Mu Qiao
Editor|Nanpo