Hello everyone, this is an anti-human club.
We've talked about age and savings, as well as male sterilization, true and false celebrities, rich tutoring and non-consumerism, and in this issue, we want to share the seven-day diary of a Haidilao worker.
Text | Tsukimi North North
Edit | Golden turn
Haidilao, a "top-notch" hot pot restaurant known for its services, is on a hot search almost every once in a while.
Haidilao-style service means warm and thoughtful, even omnipotent, which is the A side of Haidilao. But behind the service, what kind of harsh rules and tests will Haidilao's workers face?
The anti-human club went to experience the role of a Haidilao worker this time - this year's National Day holiday, we joined a Haidilao store in Beijing and immersed ourselves in the unknown B side of Haidilao.
On the first day of my part-time job at Haidilao, my biggest feeling was one word, "tired".
In a certain business district with a large number of people in Beijing, this store has always been known for its hot business, and even the part-time fee is higher than that of other families. Sure enough, throughout the day, there were almost no empty tables in the store, "Move faster, move faster." The urging voice continued to pull on my nerves, causing me to dare not relax for a moment, the pager I carried on my body was synchronizing messages at any time, which table was vacant and needed to be cleaned immediately, and which table of guests had what new needs.
I felt like a humanoid sweeping robot, constantly walking around, cleaning the floor, cleaning the garbage cans, sometimes having to take out the garbage, and for a few minutes of free time, I was called by the lobby manager to sort out the dishes.
At about 8 p.m., a waiter next to me couldn't hold on, and whispered to me that he was about to collapse when he was tired. Before he could finish speaking, he was summoned by the guests again and trotted to make two bowls of tomato soup.
Originally, 9:30 p.m. was dinner time for the staff, but because there were too many customers, everyone had time to go to the back kitchen aisle to eat. I am still looking forward to the Haidilao staff meal, before coming to see some posts, it is said that there are milk tea, fruit, but really came, only to find that eating here is as urgent as a war, what to eat, no one cares at all, are random pulling a few bites to the end, there are more people busy with no time to eat.
From about 9 o'clock in the morning, I worked until 11 o'clock in the evening, and at the end of the day, I actually walked 20,000 steps, and my feet were almost gone. No wonder Aunt Wang, who cleaned with me, said: "Haidilao's job is to spend feet, I bought six pairs of shoes, some cheap and expensive, and more than a thousand expensive, but no matter what shoes you wear, your feet are too painful." ”
To be honest, when I first decided to come to Haidilao, it was the part-time salary of 180 yuan a day that attracted me, and I was able to eat and live all inclusively, and there were 3 times the salary in the first three days of eleven. Also, I used to be served, but now I have the opportunity to change my identity experience, and I think it's not bad.
But it wasn't until the end of the day that I realized that I was so naïve that I hadn't been beaten by society, and that night I was talking to my dad on the phone, talking and talking, and I actually cried—I thought that working part-time in Haidilao might be very tired, but I didn't expect that I was so tired.
▲ The entry information is posted next to "Hands Change Destiny". Figure / Courtesy of the interviewee
The song "The Sun Never Sets" is definitely number one on the charts of songs I hate the most.
It is a song played by the Haidilao store during the shift change, and it rings twice a day at 16:00 and 17:00, each time with a full duration of 3 minutes and 48 seconds. This also means that no matter what you are doing, you have to complete the transition in the time of this song, and when the song is over, the work must be restarted immediately.
But every time the song is not over, when jolin Tsai sings the last "I want to send you the love that never sets", whether I have enough to eat or not, I will immediately feel nervous, put down the chopsticks like a conditioned reflex, and the old employees around me will immediately show a nervous look, while running and urging me to return to my post quickly.
I'm so curious, why did this store choose "The Sun Never Sets"? Is it because this song is fast-paced and can motivate everyone to speed up? Or is it because Haidilao is open for more than 20 hours a day and wants to be the empire of the catering industry?
Not only "The Sun Never Sets", we will also play "Hand in Hand tomorrow", which is Haidilao's store song, and the lyrics are "create a better future" and "always strive to be strong". Curious, I also went to NetEase Cloud Music to search for this song, and found that the comment area was basically a large chicken blood scene of Haidilao employees, and people from different stores came to leave messages and punch cards, shouting "refueling" and "rushing".
I don't know what my tomorrow will be, but I can be sure that eating too slowly today is to be criticized, and not taking leave to go to the bathroom will also be criticized.
Two days ago, Nana, who was in charge of nail art, was informed: "I went to eat employee meals at 10:53 a.m., and arrived at work at 11:17 a.m., during which I went to the bathroom without giving the management leave." "After reading this mood is a bit complicated, a briefing, actually accurate to the minute."
Somewhat ironically, Nana later went on the praise bulletin, on the grounds that: "Love and dedication, there are more nail and nail customers, and they take the initiative to stay and work overtime." ”
▲ Haidilao's equal area provides free manicure, hand care and other services. Photo / Visual China
This mental tension does not just appear during meals, but spreads to every minute and every second of my work at Haidilao.
Haidilao's requirements for employees are "laugh, run, reach". Laughter, refers to the service has always been to smile, but also can not laugh too fake; running, fast jogging, fast at the same time, but also have work in the eyes, pay attention to the surrounding situation at any time; up, meet colleagues to say a hard word, customers call to do "people have not arrived, the sound first to arrive."
It looks easy, but it is quite difficult to do in practice, which also leads to the feeling that every time the manager comes to me, I have a feeling of self-study by the high school class teacher, subconsciously straightening my waist and wondering if I meet the requirements.
There is also a concern that the customers in front of you will not be the "mysterious people" sent by the headquarters to check? ——The head office often sends people to the restaurant as ordinary diners to rate the storefront, known as the "mysterious person". Under the pressure of this random spot check, we have to make sure that our employees see everyone to greet each other kindly, fruits before meals, snacks, hot towels, toothpicks and mints after eating hot pot, none of them can be left behind, I heard that if the "mysterious person" finds the service negligence, it will be punished particularly severely, and even lose the qualification for promotion in the store.
I've eaten Haidilao many times, but this is the first time I've really noticed how depressing the requirements of Haidilao-style services fall on the employees to be executed.
Different from ordinary office workers, in Haidilao, as long as the guests can see the place, the staff must be in a working state, can not eat in front of the guests, drink water, there are guests, can not undo the apron, even the toilet can not go directly to the toilet where the guests go, but have to go upstairs from the back door, or go downstairs - these I do not understand very well, in front of the guests to drink water, eat, go to the toilet, it means that the service is not professional?
Even the staff grooming, Haidilao is also required, girls to wear full makeup, eyebrow eyeliner and eye shadow must be arranged, boys hair combing well, can not have bangs. When I joined the company, I didn't think to wear makeup, I didn't bring any makeup, but fortunately the mask saved me, and I couldn't see it after wearing it. The boys in the store also used masks to disguise, it is estimated that they could not get up in the morning, did not shave, but in the end they were pulled out by the store manager of the fire-eyed fine gold.
▲ Photo / Screenshot of Tokyo Grand Hotel
There was a word that was popular during this time, social bovine X syndrome. I used to have a myth, where can Haidilao find so many employees with social cattle X disease? I've seen birthday songs for customers. There are also those who have heard about it, help customers with their babies, and help customers with their children with homework.
I heard that the founder Daniel Zhang in the early stage of the business, in order to retain guests, is to help people with children, bags, shoes, no matter what guests need, one by one to meet. When the guests ate, he stood aside; when the guest complained that the drink hurt his stomach, he boiled a pot of millet porridge; the guest praised the delicious chili sauce, and he generously gave away a few cans. "If you want to survive, you can only have a better attitude, what speed do guests want to be fast, and what dissatisfaction is more with a smiley face."
Haidilao's assessment is not only about turnover or turnover, but about customer satisfaction and employee effort, which may be the style it laid down when it was born.
But after a few days of contact, I found that, in fact, most of the clerks here did not have the extreme enthusiasm I imagined, and even some Buddhist. At the meeting today, the manager criticized everyone for not being enthusiastic enough, because there were customers in the public review who wrote: "The staff here is a bit cold. ”
The manager hopes to have more "touching cases", and the template of the case she shared with us is: a waiter found that the guest was injured, and immediately placed an order on his mobile phone and sent a Band-Aid and disinfectant water to the guest.
At that time, the old employees were very confused: Aren't Band-Aid stores ready? Can I use my mobile phone during working hours? Orders from outside are not compliant, "Can I buy it outside for guests?" Who is responsible if I have allergies? Others say with disgust, "A bit contrived."
But this kind of touch is still solidified into a short text on the review, which has become the standard for assessing employees and stores, and has also become the pressure on everyone.
I don't know since when, birthdays have become a reservation service for Haidilao, changing the pattern of fruit plates, free shoe shine nail art, snacks and snacks sent casually... At first, it was just an occasional surprise of customer praise, but later, one by one, they were added to the scope of regular services.
Nan jie, the account manager, needs to lead everyone to sing the birthday song dozens of times a day, and when she sings to the end, her voice can't stand it. These two days were occasionally empty, and I was actually pulled up to act as an atmosphere group.
▲ Haidilao employees send birthday wishes to customers. Photo / Visual China
I can actually feel that, in addition to those strict regulations, Haidilao still strives to create a feeling of living at home for employees.
The staff dormitory where I live is two bedrooms and a living room, each room is 1-2 people, if you rent a single room in this community, the rent is about 3500 yuan. If both of you are working at Haidilao, you can also apply for a husband and wife dormitory. The accommodation provided by Haidilao may be their small home in the city for many workers.
The taste of staff meals also tries to take care of more people, and there are several staple foods for each meal, such as rice and noodles. Each meal was also served with peeled garlic and red oil dipped in water, and I had a table with a chef who had to eat garlic for meat, which was a benefit in his favorite shop.
But the harsher reality is that Haidilao's busyness has left most workers without time to live. Milk tea little sister Xiao Hui and noodle brother Aaron have been in love for more than a month, but only every morning for a short breakfast time, they can sit together and talk.
The tallest and most handsome waiter brother in the store, A Liang, is the boyfriend of another waiter sister, but during working hours, they have no intersection at all, once after work, I found at the door of the dressing room that they were wearing the same coat, and I knew that this was a couple.
Haidilao do six days off, six consecutive days a day to work for more than ten hours, in order to have a rare day off, and my room with the swallow sister said that she will not stay in Haidilao for a long time, "there are still two babies at home, reluctant."
The lobby manager, Sister Wen, has married and had children, and many employees in the store, like her, do not have time to take care of the family, and the children are taken care of by their parents in their hometown. Once, when she went to work in the morning, she was video-facing her mobile phone, and the family said that the child had been a little naughty recently, and she could only helplessly say: "If you don't obey, you will fight." ”
▲ The store manager sends red envelopes to newlywed employees. Figure / Courtesy of the interviewee
In the part-time group I first entered, several young people working at Haidilao felt too tired to stay until the end of the National Day holiday and ran away, but for many regular employees, Haidilao is the best job they can find at present.
I have read a survey before, and 80% of Haidilao employees are relatively satisfied with their treatment. Earning money and working hard to make a good life for your family is the common goal of everyone. As the store song "Hand in Hand tomorrow" sings, "Our vision is to let employees work happily and grow up happily, so that employees can afford to buy cars and houses", simple and direct.
From small daily necessities to large gold necklaces, Haidilao uses various rewards to motivate employees, and in the regular post competitions, regional post stars have the opportunity to get tens of thousands of yuan in bonuses.
One of the people who came in at the same time as me was a second entry into Haidilao, he was after 00, he came out to work after graduating from college, worked as a children's taekwondo assistant in Shanghai, and also went to Beijing and Shenzhen, and had some savings before, but he quickly spent it and returned to Haidilao.
"You can save money here." Many colleagues have said similar things to me, one is because of the package to eat and live, the second is that the income is higher than that of the same industry, and the third is because the work is busy and "there is no time to spend money."
In the enterprise WeChat can see the salary details of all employees except the store manager, in the management group, the unit price of the lobby manager position is 10500 yuan, and the back hall manager is the same, and the account manager is 9000 yuan.
Many positions are paid piece-rate wages, the more you work, the more you earn, the master aunt Wang who took me as a cleaner earned five 5600 yuan a month, and when I was more, I could earn 7000-8000 yuan a month. Aunt Wang is quite satisfied with the salary here, "We are a brick, where we need to move."
Most of the employees are not highly educated, and when I submitted my resume, HR saw that I was a graduate student and asked me if I would be interested in working as an assistant store manager. When I entered the store, a master and elder nagged me, saying that I was the most educated in the store, and let me study well after I went back, and don't come to do this hard work. They asked me about my future career plans and told me not to do catering, they couldn't do this.
▲ Photo / Screenshot of Parasite
On the seventh day, my part-time work experience was finally coming to an end.
Before leaving, the manager handed me a big gift bag with a bunch of snacks and hot pot base, all of which I love to eat, and she told me that if you want to do it in the future, you can contact her at any time.
I thought about it, I can barely accept coming to Haidilao part-time, if it is a formal job, I think I will be depressed. Colleagues said that during this time of immersive work, I became less talkative - really tired, every day after work, I did not even want to say a word, just wanted to lie in bed, quickly go to sleep.
These seven days of immersive work, I also deeply understand one thing: in Haidilao, customer service is supreme, and the workers are harsh and harsh, which has always been two sides of the same coin, which are inseparable.
The article is the original of the daily people, and the infringement must be investigated.