■ Chef Diego
"Fish has glory" is a mousse made of fish meat, which is used to coat the classic handmade rye bread very sweet.
Red cabbage head soup with sour cream is representative of traditional Moldovan soups.
The sour cherry smoothie used to refresh the mouth is really sour and very fresh in place.
■One of Yixuan's classic dishes is pan-fried cod.
■ Marinated sea bream is an Asian dish that Diego has developed based on his many years of culinary experience.
Guangzhou Michelin was selected as one of the restaurants with an exotic flavour
"2022 Michelin Guangzhou Guide" recently released the list, this year a total of 111 restaurants on the list, covering more than 20 different cuisines and tastes, in the words of Michelin China President, CEO Ye Fei: "Guangzhou has a deep gastronomic heritage, more 'treasure' restaurants and chefs continue to emerge, every year the overall number of Michelin Guide guangzhou list increase is a very good example, indicating that the development of this city, this industry, in the process of inheritance, innovation and sustainable development to bring diners a new experience, This calmness of urban life will make the whole city 'move'. ”
The food experience is like art that makes the city alive, but there is no doubt that the culture and story behind the dishes and the chefs are the soul that makes the food. Walking into a certain cuisine taste is like walking into a different flavor of life - in this year's Michelin-selected restaurant list, let us start the exotic journey of "Left Hand Moldova, Right Hand Italy", and feel a different tip of the tongue travel.
■ New Express reporter Chen Bin / Wen Gong Jilin Chen Bin / Photo
1
Kitchen myth from Moldova
There is a story behind every dish
The Ganea Kitchen Fairy Tales, which has been selected for the Michelin Plate (changed to "Michelin Selected Restaurant" this year), is an exotic restaurant with Moldovan specialties and home cooking, and its owner Eugene has lived in Guangzhou for many years and has always hoped to share the story behind the cuisine of his hometown to Chinese friends.
Before the release of the 2022 Michelin Guide to Guangzhou, together with Michael Rosenblum, one of the few foreign chefs who have also obtained the qualifications of senior Chinese pastry chef, Chinese cooker and tea artist), he carefully designed this unique menu that best represents the local flavor of Moldova, "Behind every dish is culture, there is a story, and culture is the soul of the dish." They said.
From ganea restaurant moved to its current location in 2019, the environment layout is very comfortable, the decoration style is the kind of industrial style with a bit of cold and hard temperament, and the check decoration elements on the walls are also very textured - this check element is one of the common elements of moldova, which is located in Eastern Europe, a country with a small land area but lush vegetation, simple folk customs, and people's friendliness and enthusiasm...
Although the raw materials of the dishes are appropriately reduced and adjusted according to the tastes of the Guangzhou people, Laurent also insists on the dish production of "let people enter the Moldovan food culture at the first bite".
For example, this mousse made of fish meat uses two different kinds of fish, half of which retains a certain grainy feeling of fish meat when cooking, and the other half of the fish meat is very delicate, so that the taste has a part of the "rural taste", which is used to spread the classic handmade rye bread is very sweet, and the taste of rye itself is equally attractive, and it is easy to eat more if you are not careful...
Moldovan tables are also common seasonal vegetables, kimchi sweet bean salad and eggplant rolls are popular, here kimchi belongs to the "light kimchi", that is, there is a shadow of kimchi but the taste is not strong, refreshing and easy to enter; The eggplant roll is fried on the outside, but the filling inside is different, slightly sour, which subverts the conventional perception of eggplant.
The sour creamed red cabbage head soup is a representative of moldovan traditional soups, and also carries the shadow of Slovakia and even Hungary, but the treatment of Ganea restaurant is not to mix all the raw materials and ingredients into the soup, but to cut the raw materials into small pieces and place them in containers, pouring them with another boiled red cabbage head soup, and diners can intuitively determine which ingredient the taste in the soup comes from while drinking the soup, which is very innovative.
The sour cherry smoothie used to refresh the mouth is really sour and fresh in place, and it also has a charming name called "Little Red Riding Hood", and the shape of half a cherry on the red smoothie in a transparent glass container is indeed very "fairy tale" artistic conception.
Moldova is also one of the world's five largest wine-producing countries, wine making history is said to be 5,000 years long, second only to Georgia, which has a history of more than 7,000 years of winemaking, the Eugene family has its own winery, the restaurant offers some of the wines made from moldova's unique grape varieties, some are very "Bordeaux", some are small and fresh, delicious wine, refreshing and enjoyable.
●Taste coordinates
Ganea kitchen myth stories
Address: Tianhe District, Guangzhou City, Xian Cun Road, No. 11 Polyway North Tower, the first floor of Shop 119
2
"Lemon" flair from Italy
The ambience of fresh ingredients is a fusion
Speaking of the Italian restaurant of the Ritz-Carlton Hotel, Guangzhou, Limoni, which is already familiar to many diners, represents the meaning of "lemon" in Italian, and now welcomes its new chef, Diego Ottaviani from Rome.
Diego's father is Roman, his mother is Tuscan, he was born in Rome, and later lived with his family in Abruzzo, Italy, for a long time, his parents are Chef, Diego is also from a catering family, so from a young age, he was interested in food, and when he really began to engage in the chef industry, he combined the characteristics of several different places to form his own style, "from the heart, with love." He said it was his summative assessment of his 28 years of culinary experience, and every production carried this philosophy.
About ten years ago, Diego fell in love with China through the Bulgari Hotel project, and has worked in Beijing, Shanghai and other places, so he is familiar with and understands more local ingredients, such as Dalian's sea urchin, Qiandao Lake's caviar, etc., which are the ingredients he will use in his dishes. "There is a lemon Amalfi in Italy, which is very fragrant and fresh, and I want to copy this sense of atmosphere to Yixuan, using the freshest ingredients as inspiration for the restaurant."
For example, this marinated sea bream dish, an Asian fusion dish developed by Diego based on his many years of culinary experience, "was specially designed for Bulgari's restaurants in Beijing, Shanghai and Dubai, and it took a year to get the perfect texture it is today." He chose about 4 pounds of sea bream, first marinated in water and salt for 24 hours, then added rice vinegar to control the low temperature of 40 ° C and slow cooked for 25 minutes, sliced with caviar, sour cream and so on on.
And when it comes to tradition, the Italian Roman cheese screw noodles are not compromised, Cacio e Pepe, italian literal translation is the meaning of cheese and black pepper, "very Roman way of eating, every family will do it, restaurants will also do it." However, Diego adds elements of Dalian sea urchin to the traditional spaghetti, and the rich taste layer also makes the "freshness" of the spaghetti to a higher level.
Fragrant fried cod, basically one of the classic dishes of Yixuan, Diego chooses Norwegian black cod, with low-temperature slow-cooked potato mayonnaise, caramel bell pepper sauce and silver fish fillet fried small Tang dishes, the most chic is the taste of homemade bell pepper sauce, 10 kg of bell pepper only out of 1 kg sauce, when eating the bell pepper sauce poured on the cod, the fresh sweetness of the plant and the fresh sweetness of the fish meat support each other, directly sublimated the "soul" of the fried cod...
●Taste coordinates
Limoni Italian Restaurant
Address: 3rd floor of The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, Guangzhou, No. 3 Xing'an Road, Tianhe District, Guangzhou