In the past five years, "national tide" has been one of the hottest words.
CBNData report "This is the post-95 national tide site" shows that the search index related to "new domestic goods" shows a steady upward trend, and the consumption scale of the online domestic goods market has maintained growth in the past three years. Among them, clothing accounts for about 60% of the overall consumption scale of online domestic goods, which is the main position of domestic consumption, and the growth rate of post-95 tide clothing consumption ranks first among all generations.
More than a decade ago, when Chinese couture designer Guo Pei combined Chinese elements with current trends, the term "national tide" was not even known. The public can see a large number of Chinese elements in Guo Pei's designs, such as embroidery, skirts, cheongsam, belly pockets and so on.
In July 2020, Guo Pei's brand "Rose Fang Haute Couture" was officially launched on Taobao and launched the "Couture Extension". Compared with the couture that fashion and the media have paid attention to, the price of the "haute couture extension" is relatively common.
Guo Pei's couture extension zebra regiment embroidered sweatshirt
Guo Pei himself also cooperated with Taobao Live to launch a live broadcast under the IP name of "Pei You See the World" and became the representative of Taobao Live Kung Fu Anchor 108.
In the first issue of December, the new folk music singer Ardor became a guest in Guo Pei's live broadcast room, and together with the users of the live broadcast room, they "cloud toured" the Louvre complex - paris Decorative Arts Museum. In the subsequent carrying session, the model walked the catwalk in the live broadcast room, showing all aspects of the store's "couture extension".
Guo Pei and Ardor live broadcast scenes
Live streaming of the goods link, the model shows the costume
It is not only a couture designer, a new Taobao store, but also a live broadcast. CBNData Consumer Station (hereinafter referred to as Station C) chatted with Guo Pei about how she views the meaning behind these three things and how to unify them.
Station C: What have you been busy with lately, and what are your plans for this year?
Guo Pei: March is the beginning of the year. In terms of couture, this july this year has been done, but there are still January and July next year. In fact, the plan is now for July of the following year (2023).
We will do two or three series at the same time, and the proportion of this (work) is very low, because it is not a basis for the development of our company with a brand, it is a higher pursuit on the basis of the main business of the brand.
This year, our company's overall planning is very landed.
First of all, we have to maintain the original high-end customers, we want to provide some better designs, or we do some new series to give them richer inspiration.
Secondly, as a couture brand, the continuous improvement of skills is an eternal requirement. This year we ourselves set it as the year of couture craftsmanship, and we want to go back and re-summarize and examine it from the combing of basic couture skills. Craftsmanship is the most core and basic part of our couture.
Finally, how we can let young people and more people touch our product series on the Internet in the future is a new, more challenging and difficult thing for us.
Station C: You mentioned that there are "high-end extensions" in the Rose Fang Taobao store. These products are quite affordable compared to your couture design. Is this a series launched by the brand for young people and online users?
Guo Pei: Yes. We opened a store on Taobao in 2020, and all we want to do is be close to young people. But we are not just a brand to open a store on Taobao, but we want to have some differences, we want them to accept us without pressure.
There is a certain contradiction in this, and we are looking for a balance in it. On the one hand, the product design of Taobao stores on the line still has to hold a high-end spirit for young people, at least to maintain a high-end attitude, and even to have a high-end craft. On the other hand, we need to find a breakthrough in the (couture) positioning that has already been formed, or establish a new thing.
Station C: The "couture extension" that rose mill is now online, originating from your 2020 autumn/winter couture series "Life". Under the premise of retaining the existing elements, the overall design has been very different from the original couture, and it is basically sweatshirts and short sleeves, what is this consideration?
Guo Pei: Behind the real couture series is a kind of expression, an attitude, a theme. But in fact, its permeability, everyone's acceptance of its outline have very large limitations. The couture is relatively small. If we just keep the style and re-copy it with another material, I think the acceptance surface is still very narrow.
So we thought that our (special) design in terms of contours should not be our first choice for entering the market. Let's first directly use the basic styles of life, such as T-shirts and sweatshirts, and put the content in, such as giraffes and zebras, which are the animal elements used in the "Life" series.
Of course, we also consider that slowly will enrich some other styles out. But we may maintain similar stark claims in the following series.
Station C: In the past few years, you have made a lot of Chinese elements in the design, do you think it is different from the national tide in the public perception?
Guo Pei: I think it is harmony and difference.
At the beginning, it was not summed up by the self, but it was not summarized by the survey of the market. You may often have a point of your own, which is different in Datong. For example, when I made Chinese wedding dresses, when I proposed this direction concept in 2009, everyone's acceptance was very low, but we spent 10 years to make these beautiful wedding dresses.
Personalized things are expensive in persistence, and slowly you will get the recognition of some people. However, it is still a surface that is pulled apart by one point, rather than choosing more sides, which is the difference. Like we do couture, we go first, present it with beauty, and then use it to attract you.
Everyone needs to have a prominent self-attitude towards the national tide, or at least in a big trend, not completely cater to the public. This pandering is always in the back, because after the tide appears, it is very easy for you to choose a noodle. For example, everyone suddenly has a special enthusiasm for Hanfu, this time the brand does Hanfu, that is, there is pandering, but often because of pandering, its contact surface is extra large.
Now young people's love for the national tide, I am still particularly pleased. In fact, the wedding dress is only a product line of our 10 years ago, we are already doing tea clothes, new year clothes, consumers around have been very fond of, especially the annual clothes, we have also done for many years.
Station C: This generation of young designers, do they have any factors to use in the trend of the national trend, or what factors are more friendly to them?
Guo Pei: For young designers, the national tide allows them to clearly understand the needs of the market, and this kind of thing is the trend. Without clear trends, young people have no direction. For them, the needs of the market are very clear, and it may be easier for them to find this direction to go.
Station C: Does this contradict your insistence on leading the trend?
Guo Pei: This is not a violation. Couture is actually a very small point, it does not affect my whole big team. Couture is very sophisticated, like a jewel, which is my personal love and is also done by an independent team.
But in other aspects, if we do the platform, we must cater to the market, and if we have to be unique, won't we die a miserable death?
Too far ahead, you will definitely sacrifice, but in couture to get you ahead. As I said before, there is an attitude of dedication in being high. It may just be to give, but that is your dream, and we don't have much expectation and reward for couture.
In addition, our brand serves its customers in reality. Since it is customer service, it is customer first. In this sense, we have a couture design ahead of schedule, and there is also customization to serve the market, otherwise how can we survive.
Station C: When it comes to customer service and tailor-made, many people know you because you cooperate with many celebrities, such as wedding dresses. Can today's young designers and their national brands use the power of these stars and idols to enhance their popularity?
Guo Pei: I think this is a way to increase visibility. However, the popularity of a designer is definitely not simply dependent on traffic and stars, but the essence is still dependent on works. A good designer should focus his attention on his own work.
Instead of pleading with the star to wear his clothes, the designer says the design he does is attractive, and it's a relationship of which is in front and which is behind. Because there are too many choices of stars. He took a picture of you wearing your clothes, and you said that it is possible for you to become famous by this picture, or do you rely on your accumulation?
Station C: In the new year, as the "108 General", you have carried out in-depth cooperation with Taobao Live, in terms of live broadcast content, is there any further planning?
Guo Pei: When we come to do live broadcasting, we should have our own attitude and angle. We want to give live users something nutritious, so the name of the live broadcast is "Pei Pei you see the world", which is just very close to my name, of course, this is actually our heart. It was really the world I saw that shaped my thoughts, my creativity, my emotions and my love.
I would like to share with you where my inspiration comes from, and it is by no means the kind of calm that the public thinks to be looking for. No, it just suddenly hit me, or I suddenly hit it, and at that moment I was so excited that I felt like I had to express it.
Station C: A lot of stars are your customers and friends. Will you consider them in terms of guest selection in the live room?
Guo Pei: Maybe, but it won't be just for what people call those very popular traffic stars. Our starting point is not this idea, although we hope they will bring more attention, but a show is not designed to rely entirely on guests to bring traffic, because then it will be unnatural.
I still want to work with some guests who have at least common experience and colliding ideas. Of course, if you can talk about traffic, it is best.
My team and I expect the live broadcast to be the most natural way, so that we can stick to it, the audience can stick to it, and watching this show is like running water.
Station C: In addition to doing your own live broadcast, will you consider cooperating with other top celebrities for live broadcasting?
Guo Pei: I think it's okay. First of all, they represent market acceptance, and we hope that more people will know that we have such a determination, and at the same time give everyone more content.
Author | Sisi
Edit | Zhong Rui