What are the characteristics of Zhangjiakou people in eating? Eating during the Spring Festival is the theme, are these foods available now?

People take food as the sky, the ancients have their own apes, they know to find edible plants, animals to maintain life, this natural state of diet is called raw food stage, dietary customs have not been formed. The use of fire is the key to the origin of dietary customs, which have gradually emerged since humans created the cooked food method.

The ancients created the cooked food method, which was mainly based on burning and roasting, and gradually developed the cooking method and steaming method later. The Zhangjiakou area outside Saiwai still retains the ancient modulation method. Due to the influence of region, climate, property, customs, economy and other factors, it has formed its own unique food customs. It is bordered by the Inner Mongolian grasslands to the north, the Jin Dynasty yanbei to the west, and the Central Plains to the south, and was once the land of Youzhou in the Shang and Zhou dynasties in the past. After the Eastern Han Dynasty, ethnic minorities such as the Xiongnu successively entered the region. During the Liao, Jin, and Yuan dynasties, wars arose and became ancient battlefields. Ming Xuande only built the castle in four years, added a guanxiang, and was under the jurisdiction of the Han people. Since ancient times, many ethnic minorities have lived here, leaving behind different food habits. There are Mongolian hand-grilled meat and shabu-shabu traditional meat eating customs; there are Hui fried, burned, fried, roasted, steamed, salty, sweet, charred, crisp, soft craftsmanship and popcorn snacks. There are also local customs of cooking mushrooms, bracken, swans, ground pigeons, pigeons, and weasels. There are many varieties and categories. There are many famous dishes that are closely related to the origin of food customs. It is said that Zhangjiakou's dish "Shi'ershan Roast Suckling Pig" is related to ancient hunting production.

When the Kangxi Emperor personally conquered Geldan, he once went on an autumn tour of Zhi'er Mountain in Zhangjiakou, and during the safari, he shot a suckling pig, and the guards opened the wild boar to the stomach, hung it and grilled it with pine branches, and asked the abbot of Yunquan Temple for condiments to sprinkle on the pork. Kangxi took a bite, felt that the outside was crisp and tender, mellow and refreshing, and could not help but praise: "The roast suckling pig of Shi'er Mountain is really fragrant." The emperor's words were golden and jade words, and in order to please the emperor, Wanquan County ordered a special royal dining room to be built in the nanshan head of Shandong, and every autumn, specially roasted some suckling pigs as tributes and sent to the capital. Since then, the roast suckling pig of Shi'er Mountain is worth a hundred times, and the "Wanshuntang Restaurant" and "Fuhetang Restaurant" in Zhangjiakou Fort, and the "Roast Pig Shop" of Shangbao Mantou Mountain specialize in roasting pigs. Later, the food custom of Eating Suckling Pig in Zhangjiakou became popular. 40-day-old suckling pigs are disemboweled, blown into a circle in a hot water pot, and then brushed with honey and hoisted into a stuffy oven to cook. When eating, the jujube red, oily suckling pig is cut into thin slices, then dipped in garlic paste, hot sauce, soy sauce, vinegar and other condiments, and eaten with steamed bread rolls. At that time, when the Mongols came to Zhangjiakou, they all regarded eating "roast suckling pig mat" as a rare pleasure. Today, Zhangjiakou Hotel has excavated this traditional dish of roast suckling pig, so that people can feast again.

Grilled and grilled vegetables originate from history, and there are many legends about steaming and cooking customs. The flavorful snack soba noodle bowl is developed from boiled paste to steamed bowl lump. It is said that there was a drought in Zhangjiakou one year, the crops in the fields were burned, and the season was passed again when the grain was planted. An elderly couple was worried when a merchant they had rescued brought a bag of buckwheat seeds. The old two families planted buckwheat in the summer, and in the autumn they had a bumper harvest. They were frugal, and when they had new grain, they still drank the paste at night, and when they couldn't drink it, they scooped the rest of the paste into the bowl, and the next day, the paste became a trembling bowl. In order to save firewood, they cut the bowl into small strips, pounded some garlic paste, put some mustard, poured some sesame oil and vinegar, mixed well, cool silk, spicy, fragrant, a bowl to the stomach to defeat the fire refreshing. In order to let everyone enjoy this blessing, the old two sold the bowl. They used cold water to stir the soba noodles into raw paste, poured them into bowls, steamed them in the cage drawer at night, and the next morning buckled the cold noodles from the bowl into the round bamboo cage, and then carried it to the street stall. When selling, the old woman cut the bowl into a noodle fish, stacked it into a yuan treasure shape in the bowl, and then poured the seasoning. Because the bowls are cheap and good, business is booming, attracting many poor people to follow suit, grow buckwheat, and sell bowls. Later, the bowl variety added white yam powder bowls and yellow bean noodle bowls. Since then, Zhangjiakou has had the custom of eating the fire under the bowl. Some local food customs in Zhangjiakou are also related to the local rich and poor and frugal customs. Northerners generally love to eat yellow rice noodle cakes, but people in Wei County and Yangyuan in Zhangjiakou area eat wool cakes. The wool cake is a cake that is ground into noodles with the skin and steamed into a cake, which is naturally not as delicious as the yellow cake. The people in these places eat wool cakes because the local barren people naturally develop a fine tradition of thrift and thrift. They have been frugal since ancient times, and whether they are sorry for the year or a good year, they are thrifty and thrifty to prevent famine years. The method of eating wool cake is generally eaten by the poor with salt water and vegetables dipped in hair cake, and the rich eat with sheep's blood boiled noodles or broth dipped in hair cake. In the past, the people of Weixian Regarded Eating Mao Cake Meat Dishes as the best delicacy during the New Year's Festival. When eating, he still hummed: "Mao cake meat dish, do not eat or eat another piece." "According to locals, eating wool cake can also strengthen the body and bones, which is conducive to labor."

The food custom of Zhangjiakou people eating noodles is related to geography and climate. Zhangjiakou Dam area is a cold weather, wheat is an alpine crop, adapted to grow in cold climate conditions, with drought resistance, cold resistance, barrenness ability, in less water and fertilizer conditions, can produce more nutrients. Contains protein, fat, calcium, phosphorus and other nutrients. The noodles are delicious and nourishing and hungry, and there is a folk saying that goes along with the words: "Forty miles of noodles, thirty miles of cakes, ten miles of soba noodles hungry and broken waist." "That is to say, eating a meal of noodles, you can walk forty miles without being hungry." Farmers outside Saiwai regard the noodles as a treasure, and people rely on the heat converted by the noodles in the body to fight the cold, graze cattle and sheep, and work in the fields. Zhangjiakou people pay attention to three cooks of noodles, first put the cleaned wheat grains in a large pot and fry them, and then grind them into noodles. When the noodles are boiled with boiling water, the noodles are steamed, and after three cooks, the noodles produce a rich and attractive fragrance.

Zhangjiakou people have many ways to eat noodles, in addition to putting the noodles on the tiles and pushing them into soft, trembling and thin nests, they can also rub strips, squeeze fish, press dumplings, pinch cat ears, beat cakes and so on. These kinds of steamed foods must be accompanied by dishes, generally accompanied by boiling vegetables, fried sauce, and the best is lamb mushroom soup. Using chopsticks to pick up a nest and dip it into the soup, it is really unique. You can also put some green onion salt and salt to stir-fry Kui, put some oil and sugar to fry the noodles, steam dumplings with carrot meat filling, bake pancake roll sweet noodle sauce scallions, bean sprouts and other food methods. Zhangjiakou's second treasure is yam (potato), which can be fried with shredded, stewed pieces, fried slices and made into crystal dumplings. Crystal dumplings are made with hot water to mix the yam powder, roll out the slices and steam them again, and the dumplings can be seen like crystals.

Zhangjiakou's cuisine is mainly Based on Beijing cuisine, which integrates northern Manchu, Mongolian, Han and other dishes. At the same time, it also has the characteristics of Shanxi cuisine that like acid, such as vinegar slip and vinegar cooking dishes. Mouth mushrooms and bracken with local characteristics of Zhangjiakou are produced in this region, and bracken is abundant in the Chicheng and Chongli mountains in Zhangjiakou area, and mushrooms are everywhere in the grasslands on the dam, which creates material conditions for making local famous dishes. In addition to meat stir-fry and white steak, mushroom dishes can also be paired with fish, sea cucumber, meat, eggs and green vegetables to make "oolong pearl mushroom", "plum blossom longan mushroom", "lotus mushroom", "Easter egg green leg mushroom", "vegetarian roast four treasures", "original shell pearl mushroom", "phoenix wing white mushroom", "golden chicken mushroom", "goldfish mushroom", "mushroom". Mushroom soup has a strong aroma and high nutritional value, which can add more brilliance to the banquet.

Saiwaishan rare bracken, known as a longevity dish, has a high nutritional value, and can be fried, slippery, soft fried, sea rice stewed, garlic paste mixed to make more than 20 kinds of dishes. Tender and lubricated, delicate and non-ribbed, crisp green, sweet taste. The ancients also used bracken to treat bruises, internal bleeding, dizziness and insomnia, hypertension and rheumatoid arthritis, dysentery, vaginal discharge, hemorrhoids, prolapse and other diseases. Bracken can also diuretic and antipyretic, nourish the liver and kidneys, is a cheap and delicious food medicine outside the plug.

Xuanhua District of Zhangjiakou City is rich in white milk grapes, and the folk use white milk grapes as raw materials to prepare a unique grape feast in China on the basis of the traditional famous dish of plucked silk grapes. There are 16 dishes such as glass grapes, snow mountain grapes, and dragon play beads on the table, which are delicious and tender to eat, and the cheeks are full of aroma, which makes people feel endlessly evocative.

In the past, Zhangjiakou also spread the saying that "the knife edge is not picked, the taste is waist". That is to say, people here do not require how fine the knife work is, how well the dice, silk, and slices are cut, but the taste is good. On the other hand, it also shows that people here love to eat boiled vegetables, no matter how well the vegetables are cut, once they are boiled, they will be shapeless, so they do not pay attention to knife work. Zhangjiakou people eat boiled vegetables are also influenced by the food customs of Shanxi people, and love to eat sesame oil boiled vegetables, that is, Shanxi people say stewed vegetables. Simmer vegetables in a pot of green onion, ginger, garlic or simmer and pour peppercorn oil. Commonly known as "lamp oil". Folk like to eat boiled vegetables, there is a proverb "yam boiled eggplant, fragrant dead old man". Generally, boiled vegetables are cabbage boiled tofu, lentil boiled zucchini, pork, vermicelli, cabbage stew and so on.

Zhangjiakou's traditional flavor snacks are influenced by Beijing and Jin, and there are many kinds of dalu foods, such as roast cakes, fritters, millet noodle pancakes, yellow rice noodles cut cakes, Jiangmi noodle fried cakes, bean noodle cakes, sugar hemp leaves, chicken kui, twist flowers, brown sugar cakes, knife-cut noodles, soba noodles, eight treasure rice, etc.

Zhangjiakou people also because of the influence of the climate and adjacent Inner Mongolia, love to drink liquor, eat heavy color, mouth weight, eat meat is good fat. This is because people need to heat up in the body to enhance their ability to resist cold. Now with the improvement of people's living conditions, this kind of food custom has also changed, and eating vegetables pays attention to meat lean, light, light, color and flavor.

People in the grasslands on Zhangjiakou Dam love to eat wild game, and the origin of this custom has to be traced back to ancient times. At that time, the area on the dam was the boundary of the Liao State. According to the "History of Liao", "Jingzong Baoning hunted charcoal mountain for three years" Charcoal Mountain originated at the source of the Lightning River in Guyuan County. The Emperor of the Liao Dynasty hunted and traveled here as many as fifteen times. The same was true during the Yuan Dynasty. In the Qing Dynasty, the area around Duolun and Guyuan was called the "West Yard". In addition to eating deer and fish, those imperial soldiers also liked to eat the four major game meats of swans, ground geese, pigeons, and weasels. These wild game emperors eat, the people also eat, can still be bought in the market. According to the "Facts of halogen", "In the wilderness of the desert, there are many weasels, and the valley of livestock beans is in its burrow, and it is out, and it is obtained." See its sincerity has sellers. The peeled abdomen is very fat, and the brine people think it is precious. ”

According to the "Fei XueLu", the weasels were imperial food at the beginning of the yuan and were not allowed to be taken unless they were offered to the court. It can be seen that the royal family takes pleasure in eating weasels. The Chronicle of History says that some of the Xiongnu "could ride sheep and shoot birds and mice when they were children", and this rat refers to the weasel. The weasel, also known as the "ground rat", is commonly known as the "big-eyed thief", a staple herb that sometimes sneaks up at night to sleep in front of the cow's nipples and steals milk. The weasel is caught, peeled, disemboweled, defiled, and stewed in a pot. Or paste the weasel with mud, start a "cha cha fire", and burn it into a tender dish on the outside. Some are boiled in boiling water, the hair is peeled off, and the boiled can be fried. The meat is tender and flavorful. Folk use their meat as a tonic.

Pigeons refer to domestic pigeons, rock pigeons, spotted pigeons and other pigeons. The food method is to stew with pork, deer and other meat with more condiments, and the meat taste is more fragrant. Ground eagles, slightly larger than geese, can reach up to one meter long, have strong and good running feet, and often inhabit grasslands. People catch it and stew it, and eat the ground duck at the banquet is to cut the ground duck into thin slices, mix it with egg green and starch pulp, and after the oil slips, it is compatible with the bamboo shoot tip, green onion ginger, and green vegetables, and stir-fried into various delicacies.

As the saying goes, ten miles are different sounds. Zhangjiakou is characterized by different foods in the hundreds. People on and under the dam have greatly changed the way they eat food, just take cornmeal, some places love to steam nest heads, paste cakes, and some places love to beat paste and leak fish. Eat pork, the people on the dam are stewed in a big pot, and the people in Huai'an County under the dam add another process on the basis of stewing, smoking. The mention of bacon at Chaigou Fort is a household name. The bacon here is fat but not greasy to eat, and the skin is crispy and fragrant. In the middle of summer, the meat is left for a week without changing the taste, and mosquitoes and flies dare not fall on the meat. The reason why Chaigou Fort bacon has these advantages is related to the cutting and boiling process. When cooking the meat, the chef puts sand kernels, nutmeg, bipu, ginger, cloves, tangerine peel, cinnamon, wood, grass fruit, lotus seeds into the pot 11 flavors containing aroma and nutrients, and old soup. After the meat is cooked, place the meat in a smoking pot with drawers and smoke it for eight minutes with cypress shavings or sawdust. The meat oil after the pot is bright and red, which can greatly increase people's appetite. Legend has it that Chaigou Fort used to eat stewed meat, and then there was a chef named Guo Xi, who fell asleep while stewing meat, boiled the pot dry, burned the lid of the cypress wood pot, woke Guo Xi up, he extinguished mars, looked at the meat, it turned into jujube red, and the smell of meat became more intense, he took these charred and tender, mellow and delicious bacon to the street, and was quickly snapped up. Since then, he has been selling bacon for a long time. The butcher shops of his neighbors followed his example in making bacon, and as a result, the bacon of Chaigou Fort became famous.

The noodles in Huai'an County are also very distinctive, and the saying there is: "Huai'an's bread is knocked with a stick", that is, when the stick is knocked, the cake is crisped into multiple layers. This kind of cake should be mixed with soft noodles, oily noodles, and multi-roll layers, so that a thin and soft layer of cake will be baked. There are also bracelet-like dry buns, "saddle rolls" like camel saddles, "plump cake slices" like thin jade, and "nests of silk" coiled like gold wire, all of which are fragrant and crispy, suitable for all ages. Women confinement, relatives take these delicacies to visit. There is also huai'an county's tofu skin is also a thin skin tendon road, shaking is not rotten, not broken, can be hot stir-fried, cold mix, the countryside table to invite guests are inseparable from the tofu skin.

Zhangjiakou pays attention to eating, and it must be said that when you get married, you eat the most customs. Before the woman gets married, she must eat a turnaround cake, the filling of this cake is all minced minced meat, and after it is cooked, it is fragrant and oily, which means that the daughter can get rid of poverty and get rich after marriage, completely turn over, and live a small life of fat and oil. When the groom picks up the bride, the groom gives his mother-in-law a sheep leg, which means meat from the departed mother. Two tin cans of fried yellow cake were given, with beans and vegetable fillings in the cake, which means to give birth to a man and a daughter after marriage. When the bride enters the cave room, she must step on the threshold, and a saddle should be placed on this threshold, which means crossing the bridge. Place a plate of yellow rice noodle dumplings under the saddle, with five bean fillings and two vegetable fillings, which means that five men and two women can be born after passing through the door. At night, when the cave room is haunted, the guests give orders for the groom and bride to answer, and if the answer is not right, let the two small sips drink mixed soup, that is, white gnocchi soup. When I was about to drink, I asked an old lady with both children to stir it up, and there are many sayings about this soup, saying that it is good to stir the east and the west to stir more men and fewer women, and to stir the south and the north to stir two mouthfuls.

According to the degree of wealth and poverty, the difference in dishes on the wedding banquet is very large, and there are 64 dishes on the table. The times on 32 plates, the poor on 16 plates or 8 large bowls. The table of 16 plates is four cold, four hot, four salty and four sweet. These four mean that there are guests on all sides and money in all directions. These eight mean the peace of the eight parties and the great smoothness of the eight parties. The eight bowls are hot pots in the middle with chowder dishes, surrounded by braised pork, grilled meat strips, bowl button meat, back pot meat, yu balls, slippery balls, plucked silk balls, and sixi balls. There are 6 people sitting on the Kang table and 8 people sitting on the Kang hem Eight Immortals Table. No matter how big the feast, there are 2 plates of clear pickles in the corner of the table, and there are whole chicken, whole fish, and large pieces of meat. The staple food of the wedding banquet is generally happy noodles, and the noodles are long, which means that the husband and wife love each other for many years, and the white head is old.

The new aunt returned to her father-in-law's house for a more solemn reception. Usually, rich people's families serve 64 or 32 plates of noodles, accompanied by five respected elders during the meal. When a new daughter-in-law gives birth to a child, relatives and friends send 25 nests of filament noodles, that is, one or two thin noodles are rolled into a nest.

Businessmen talk about business and invite guests, or relatives and friends receive the wind and send dust to the banquet, which is very exquisite. First, put on four dried, fried peach kernels, dates, green plums, apricots. Then on the four fresh, seasonal melons and pears. At the beginning of the main table, there are four flat plates and eight kinds of cold dishes, which means that the future is four flat and eight stable. Then there are five large pieces, clear soup swallow vegetables, red grilled shark fin, steamed cinnamon fish, amber lotus seeds, and green steamed white duck. The eight stir-fried dishes are silver ear fungus, fried plate shrimp, fried hibiscus chicken slices, barbecue pork mat, Full Han table, and casual seat. The dishes on these tables are four dry, four fresh, four cold, eight stir-fried dishes, four large pieces, and four large bowls. The last soups are three fresh soups, shrimp slices, chicken breast ball soup, and fish meatball soup. The spicy and sour soup is degreasing, and the soup on the three immortals is a metaphor for the guests to make a fortune in business. Wrapped in tofu soup on the top of the dish means fortune.

Zhangjiakou's festivals and food customs have been very strong since ancient times, and the Wanquan County Chronicle of the Qing Dynasty records: "On the first day of the first lunar month, Shuang firecrackers set up a court to burn wine and sacrifice ceremonies to worship the gods and ancestors, relatives and friends paid homage to the three or four days, and there were also people who drank and ate swallows." Local songs also illustrate this custom, "Come and ask someone to set the table in the first month, and catch Lou Lou and set pigeons in February..." Now, this custom of setting up offerings to sacrifice the ancestors of the gods on the first day of the New Year is very rare, but when relatives and friends pay homage to the New Year, it is still very popular to celebrate reunions and set up banquets.

Folk pay attention to Li Chun eating spring cakes. On February 2, eating fried beans and popping sorghum flowers, which means that when the dragon rises, the earth recovers, and all the insects wake up, and eating fried beans and sorghum flowers means to eliminate all pests such as flies, mosquitoes, and fleas. On the fifth day of May, every household wraps rice dumplings with yellow rice, rice and red dates to make cold cakes. On June 6, the people took a picnic with their companions and climbed the mountain to eat a picnic. On The seventh of July, hand-grilled meat. Farmers and herdsmen in Yangyuan, Wei County and Bashang slaughter sheep and stew meat in order to celebrate the harvest of grass and sheep. The women in the county town also put melons and fruits at the doorstep of their homes and gave them to female beggars. On August 15th, relatives and friends gave each other melon and fruit mooncakes, and families gathered to eat reunion cakes to enjoy the moon. On September 9, chongyang festival, the people eat flower cakes, which means to ascend to the plague. On the first day of October, a feast is held to worship the ancestors. On the eighth day of the first lunar month, the folk use rice, beans and fruits to cook into a porridge of lapa ba. On the twenty-third day of the 23rd lunar month, he ate caramel and sacrificed it to the god of vesta, which means to sweeten the mouth of the king of the stove, so that he can say good things to heaven and ensure peace in the netherworld.

Zhangjiakou has had many famine years in history, and in the folk, it has formed the dietary customs of digging wild vegetables, picking elm money, picking willow buds, pinching fennel, picking mushrooms, bracken, hemp lettuce, hair vegetables, grinding elm skin noodles, etc., which constitute the fine tradition of hard struggle of the people outside Cyprus.

Looking at the food customs of Zhangjiakou, there is a strong regionality, which can be described as one side of the water and soil to nurture one side of the people, which has formed a unique local characteristics of the food customs. (Text/Yu Wenlong)