Zhang Haimei: Flat food that can "walk"

The author is the head of the National Social Science Foundation Youth Project "Comparative Study of Vocabulary of Southern and Northern Dialects of the Song and Yuan Dynasties" and a professor at the Grammar School of Henan Polytechnic University

"Dumplings" is the protagonist of northern Chinese New Year's Eve rice, with many names, such as "dumplings/dumplings, dumplings, flat food, horns (horns/horns), wontons" and so on. Or named based on the external shape of things, or based on different cooking methods, reflecting people's different language cognitive characteristics, containing extremely rich dialect and Chinese history information. In modern Chinese dialects, the use of "flat food" to refer to "dumplings" seems to be the "patent" of northerners, such as Northeast Guan dialect, Jilu Guan dialect, Lanyin Guan dialect, Zhongyuan Guan dialect, Jianghuai Guan dialect, Southwest Guan dialect, Jin dialect or Jin dialect; some dialects in the south such as Min, Gan, and Hakka use "flat food", but they are used to represent "wontons", which is the same name as "flat food (dumplings)" in the north. Therefore, in the north, there is a saying that "Chinese New Year's Eve, and the family happily eats flat food (dumplings)"; in the south of Fuzhou, there is a saying that "no swallows ( 'swallow' that is, 'flat meat swallows, flat food', 'wontons') do not become seats, and no swallows do not grow old".

Why do North and South use the same "semantic" to express different concepts? We try to answer by examining the use of the term "flat food/plaque food" in historical documents.

The first area of the "flat food/plaque eclipse" and the first southward shift

The Han people have long had the custom of eating dumplings, and they were first ordered to be "wontons". The Western Han Dynasty Yangxiong's "Dialects" says: "Bread is called a dumpling, or it is called a dumpling." "Qing Qianxuan", "Notes": "Volume 15 of the Zhongjing Yinyi quotes Guangya: 'Wontons, cakes also.'" And the "North Household Record" notes the same. "Collection rhymes" and "class chapters" are quoted as ■ 肫. ...The Qi Min Zhi Shu has the method of water introduction wontons, and Yan Zhitui said: "The wontons of today are shaped like a moon, and the world is also a full eater." According to this, "wonton" may be "wonton", and from the perspective of "shape like a moon", Yan Zhitui's "wonton" is like today's dumplings. In the Song Dynasty, due to the different cooking methods, "wontons" and "dumplings" were divided into two parts, the former refers to boiled wontons, and the latter refers to non-boiled foods, and the new names "horns/horns" and "flat food/plaque food" were used. Yuan Ming, "horns / horns" sound changed to "dumplings / dumplings", developed to this day, has become a common name, cooking method is no longer limited, boiling, frying or steaming can be. The name "flat eclipse" began in the north and later moved to the south, but the corresponding physical object was different from that of the north.

"Flat food (dumplings)" is first seen in the literature of Song Xu Mengxin's "Compilation of the Three Dynasties northern alliance", volume 71 quoting Shi Maoliang's "Night Talk of Avoiding Rong": "The Jin people offer to send left and right sleeping food as follows the law, and eat wonton flat food, which is the Imperial Diet of the Jin people." Guan and what you see, there is also a case in the Song Dynasty, that is, Lin Guangchao's "Queshan Stele Yin": "Plaque eats beans, where the name is gathered; Bu Ji Lieding, full of grievances." Lin Guangchao (1114-1178) was a native of Putian (now part of Fujian), studied in his hometown before the age of twenty, studied in Qiantang after failing to take the exam twice, returned to Pu for nearly thirty years during the ninth and tenth years of Song Shaoxing (1139-1140), was a zhongjinshi at the age of fifty, transferred to Yuan Prefecture (present-day Yichun, Jiangxi) to join the army, and later changed to Zuo Chengfeng Lang as Yongfuzhi County, etc., and never went to the north in his life. From the perspective of the critical period of language acquisition, the formation period of a person's dialect is roughly 8-15 years old, because he is in his hometown before the age of 15, so his language has some Fujian dialect colors. "Flat food/plaque food" is used in both the northern language and the southern Fujian dialect, is that not a colloquial word? "The common language takes the national capital as the center, the upper level of communication as the front, and accumulates, continuously, and gradually deepens the diffusion of the dialects of all sides", the scope of use of the common language is often centered on the national capital to spread and infiltrate around, and the "flat food/plaque food" in the Song and Jin literature in the two examples of one south and one north, did not form a use area centered on the national capital, it is difficult to say that it is a common language word.

Although shi maoliang's deeds and deeds are unknown, but its record is the food of the Jin people, so Fang Linggui (1984) once suspected that "flat food" was the name given by the Jurchens to the Han people "dumplings", and later deduced that the name "dumplings" named "flat food" according to the dumpling relics found in the tombs of the Tang Dynasty in Xinjiang may have begun with the Uyghurs. This can be evidenced by the Uyghur dialect counterpronunciation of "flat food", such as the "Han-Wei Dictionary" as b?quinoa, the "Han-Wei Learning Dictionary" as benxir, and the pronunciation of "flat food" in Uyghur homophones and "flat food" in Uyghur homologues (the former as "bi?耷si" and the latter as "biansi") as circumstantial evidence, once again indicating that the "flat food" name of "dumplings" originates from the Uyghurs. Moreover, it should not be accidental that this name was first used in the literature to refer to the Jinren Imperial Diet, because Jurchen and Uyghur belong to the same Altaic language family, "different languages belonging to the same language family, generally in pronunciation, vocabulary and grammar to varying degrees have the common characteristics of the language family." The pronunciation of "dumplings" in the Jin language may be similar to the pronunciation of the Uyghur language of the same language, so it is recorded by the Han Shi Maoliang as "flat food". In summary, the han ethnic dumplings have been transmitted to the ethnic minority areas in the western regions of the mainland as early as the Tang Dynasty, and the Uighurs are called "b? quinoa nx quinoa / benxir", which is transliterated by the Han people as "flat food / plaque food", which was popular in the north when it first appeared in the Tang and Song dynasties. As for Lin Guangchao's 1 case, Xu was caused by ethnic migration. At the end of the Tang Dynasty, the anshi rebellion, the end of the Northern Song Dynasty, the Jingkang difficulties, the people in the north to avoid war and chaos set off two large-scale waves of southward migration, Jiangnan, Huainan, Jiangxi, Fujian and other major places of migration. Both migrations had the opportunity to move the northern word "plaque food/flat food" south to Fujian. However, this time moving south, the object referred to by the "flat eclipse" has not changed.

The second southward shift of "flat food/plaque food"

The formation of the "same name and different reality" between the north and the south

The Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties are still mostly used in the north, so Xu Ke's "Qing Barnyard Banknotes" "flat food" strip cloud: "Northern sayings, the genus of all baits, dumplings, pot stickers, collectively known as flat food." "Here's how.

In the Yuan Dynasty, there was 1 case of the anonymous "Mocking The Whore's Plaque Food" and 1 case of Shi Hui's "Youyu Ji". Although Shi Hui was from Hangzhou, Wang Xiaojia and Wang Lulu were from the late Yuan and early Ming dynasties, and speculated that they might be Jurchens, and his ancestors had traveled south to Hangzhou or Qiantang in Zhejiang with the demise of the Jin Dynasty. If this is the case, the "plaque food" in his pen is a reflection of his northern hometown dialect.

In the Ming Dynasty, Zhu Youyi had 1 case of miscellaneous dramas; 2 cases of "Commentary on the Pu Tong Incident"; 5 cases of "Jin Ping Mei ( Chong)"; 1 case of "Journey to the West"; 1 case of "History of the Ming Palace and Fire Collection"; 1 case each of Tang Xianzu's opera "Handan Chronicle" and the skit "Answer to Wang Yutai"; 1 case of "Dongdu Record"; and 1 case of "Wanju Miscellaneous Records".

In the Qing Dynasty, there was 1 case of "Gu Yu Yan"; 1 case of Wu Li's "Notes on the Words of Chongzhen Palace"; 1 case of "Old Beggar Da xinshi"; 5 cases of "The Legend of the Awakening Marriage"; 2 cases of "Liaozhai Slang Song Collection"; 1 case of "Qilu Lantern"; 2 cases of "White Snow Relic"; 1 case of "Regeneration Edge"; 3 cases of "Pinhua Baojian"; and 1 case of "Ji Sheng in the Age of Emperor Jing".

In addition to the Ming and Qing Dynasties use cases such as Journey to the West (Jianghuai official dialect color), Tang Xianzu's works (Tang dynasty Fuzhou Linchuan people in Jiangxi Province) and "Chongzhen Palace Words Notes" (note by Wu Li is from Qiantang, Zhejiang), the rest are used in the north. For example, Zhu Youyi was a native of Fengyang, Anhui (Zhongyuan Guan dialect area), who spent his life "traveling south to Jianghan and traveling north to the desert", and his language inevitably did not stain his north; the "Commentary on the Facts of Park Tong" and the "New Interpretation of Lao Qi" had The color of Beijing dialect; "Jin Ping Mei", "The Tale of the Marriage of the Awakening World", and "The Collection of Liaozhai Slang Songs" had the color of Shandong dialect; the "History of the Ming Palace" was written by Lü Yi's selection of "Yu Zhongzhi" volume 20 "Good Diet and Good Diet", and the folk customs he recorded in the years had obvious local characteristics of Beijing, and the words used were influenced by the local dialect to a certain extent; Fang Ruhao, the author of "The Book of Eastern Degrees", is a native of Henan, and his creative language is more or less colored by the Henan dialect. The "Miscellaneous Records of Wanju" is a local history of Beijing, which records the customs and customs of Beijing during the Ming Dynasty, with Beijing dialect colors. Wang Zuxia mentioned that the dialects involved in the book are Wu dialect, Jianghuai dialect, Shandong dialect, Liaodong dialect and Beijing dialect, so his "flat food" xu is a northern dialect component; "Misguided Road Lantern" has the color of Henan dialect; Hua Guangsheng, the editor of "Bai Xue's Remains", is a native of Licheng, Shandong, and his language is more or less shandong dialect; although Chen Duansheng, the author of "Regeneration Edge", is from Hangzhou, most of the content of his book is written in Beijing, and it is inevitable that he will not be affected by the local dialect; "Pinhua Baojian" Although the author Chen Sen is from Changzhou, Jiangsu Province, according to Lu Xun and Xu Junchao, Chen Sen lived in Beijing for a long time and created "Pinhua Baojian" when he lived in Beijing, and his creative language will be more or less influenced by Beijing dialect; Pan Rongxi, the author of "Ji Sheng in the Age of Emperor Jing", is a beijing Daxing person, and his language has Beijing dialect colors.

As can be seen from the above, the "flat food" is mainly used in the north, and at the same time, the second southward shift began. The "Journey to the West", Tang Xianzu's works and the "Chongzhen Palace Dictionary Notes" can prove that although the dialect basis of "Journey to the West" is controversial and Wu Li's life deeds are less recorded, Tang Xianzu was born in Linchuan, grew up in Linchuan, and spent his life in addition to a very short experience of entering Beijing to catch the examination. This shows that the "flat food (plaque food)" did move south, but after it spread to the south, southerners used to refer to "wontons" according to their own eating habits. For example, in the Ming edition of "Li Jiu I Criticized the Broken Kiln", the thirteenth "Money Flower": "When the noble bodhisattvas descended, only two golden steels could not be found, and the queen mother ate wontons in the shop." "Interpretation" Yun: Wontons "take the noodles as bread, wrap them with meat, that is, the flat food of today." "Li Jiu's criticism includes three parts: eyebrow criticism, interpretation, and phonetic characters. Li Jiu, a native of Jinjiang, Fujian Province, interpreted "wontons" in the "Interpretation" section with "flat food", which can prove the change of the object of the "flat food" after it spread to the south. In the Ming and Qing dynasties, there are many records of those who use "flat food" to refer to "wontons", such as Jiajing's thirty-seventh year "Wujiang County Chronicle" volume 13 "Ritual Zhi III Customs": "On June 6, the meat wrapped in noodles was used as a plaque to eat food, commonly known as wontons. Li Shi's "Shu Language": "Wontons are eaten on plaques, and the products in Shehong County are excellent." Daoguang Twenty-one Years "Zunyi Fu Zhi" Volume 20 "Customs": "Wontons are known as flat food." Although some of the "flat food" of the "wonton" in the Ming and Qing dialects have not been used to this day (today's Sichuan dialect no longer uses "flat food", but uses "copying hand" and "wrapped noodles"), it proves the indisputable fact that "flat food" has changed after it was transmitted to the south.

The tossing and shaping of "flat food"

The physical object of "dumplings" is from Han to Wei, and the name of "flat food" is from Wei to Han, reflecting the mutual learning and exchange between the Han nationality and the surrounding ethnic minorities. After the name "flat food" entered the Han Dynasty, it went from north to south, forming the linguistic fact that the north and south shared the same shape. The Modern Chinese Dictionary interprets "plaque food (flat food)" as "[fang] dumplings or wontons". In fact, in the northern and southern dialects, "flat food" or "wontons" or "dumplings", almost no miscellaneous toilets. And the southern "flat food (wontons)" and "north" flat food (dumplings)" geographical distribution is distinct, from the diachronic level, the "same name difference" of the north and south flat food probably sprouted in the Ming and Qing dynasties, and the reasons for its formation are inseparable from the migration of ethnic groups and the difference between the north and south diets.

The phenomenon of "same name" and "same name and different reality" between "pu-fang" and "fang-fang" is not uncommon, it seems to be the same word shape, sounds like the same name, but corresponds to different physical objects. Therefore, in the field investigation of dialect geography, it is necessary to pay attention to the combination of word forms and physical objects, not only to consider the shape and classification of the things referred to by the word forms, but also to show the photos of things that are easily confused in different regions to the pronunciation person. The difference between the north and the south of the "flat eclipse" indicates the movement and fusion of the words of the north and the south, and it is the fusion of the languages of the north and the south that is woven into today's crisscrossing and hierarchical dialect distribution picture.