There is such a "giant" in the fashion industry, not only because of his height of 1 meter 98, but also because of his unique image, unique aesthetic and frank personality.
Sadly, he died in New York on January 18, 2022, after a heart attack and complications from COVID-19, and he was André Leon Talley.
Fashion male demon head
Andre Leon Talley
André Leon Talley, the former creative director of VOGUE in the United States, was the first African-American person to hold the position, and in 2020 he was awarded the Knight's Medal of Merit in Arts and Literature by France's then-President Sarkozy.
André Leon Talley和 Naomi Campbell
As the first African-American male creative director, Andre urged designers to put more African-American models on the runway of their show, and he was also the primary contributor to making African-American models appear on the cover of VOGUE magazine.
For 25 years or more, André Leon Talley was a regular guest in the front row of major fashion shows, an annual guest at MET GALA, and in 2008 he made a "cameo" appearance as the red carpet host of the Oscars.
André Leon Talley and designer Tom Ford
He has a signature hearty laugh, a variety of "magic robes", many of which are customized for him by his famous designer friends, including Tom Ford, Karl Lagerfeld, Valentino Garavani...
André Leon Talley和Jason Wu
Although he is a "big coffee", he is willing to use his influence to help young designers enter the fashion field to pursue their dreams, provided that he can smell the potential of his descendants.
Andre has a wide range of contacts, good popularity, cross-border "electrocution" is also common, in 2008, he made a cameo appearance in the movie "Sex and the City", and in the second season of "Empire", he made a cameo appearance in a gorgeous oversized cape. When commenting on other people's outfits in person, throw down the "Out of season" and turn your head and leave.
In March 2010, Andre joined the jury of the reality show "The American Top Model Competition" and contributed many sharp and professional golden sentences.
1. His life is a novel
Some people describe Andrey's life Be like: Tony's origin + Don's experience in the fashion circle version of "Green Book".
Andre was born on October 16, 1948 in Washington, D.C., the son of a taxi driver. Moreover, he grew up with his grandmother, who worked as a cleaner.
Andre grew up in an environment where "apartheid defines the boundaries of society." "For a long time, my grandmother didn't allow white people to enter our house, which was her rule, and the only white person who entered the house could only be a coroner," he said.
However, life outside the home is inevitably subject to unfair treatment. "On the way to the commissary to buy magazines, you will be teased by white college students and throw small pebbles," he writes in his memoir A.L.T.: A Memoir.
His fate with fashion is also related to his grandmother, from whom Andrea gained his initial "understanding of luxury" and a yearning for elegance. And when he was nine or ten years old, he found VOGUE magazine in the local library, and he was out of control.
Andre studied French at Central University in North Carolina and then earned a Master of Arts degree in French from Brown University, and after graduating from graduate school, he went to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York as an assistant.
In 1974, she assisted Diana Vreeland, the former editor-in-chief of VOGUE, as a pro bono assistant to diana Vreeland, the editor-in-chief of VOGUE.
Impressed by him, Diana later helped him find a job at Andy Warhol's Interview magazine, with a weekly salary of $50 and a precipitated step of the day.
Diana taught the language of Andre's clothing, the language of style. "Diana speaks like someone in a literary work, she will challenge you, but will never give you any mediocre instructions," Andre said.
André Leon Talley和 Karl Lagerfeld
André Leon Talley和Yves Saint Laurent
André's first designer to visit was Karl Lagerfeld, who not only met Lafayette, but even Yves Saint Laurent, who had always been introverted and isolated, became friends with him.
In 2008, Andre provided styling services for Michelle Obama, who introduced Chinese-American designer Jason Wu to Michelle, a "former first lady of the United States," who designed several outfits for Michelle, including the dress she wore at the presidential inauguration.
2. Love and murder with "female demon head" Anna
Since he is the soul of "VOGUE", his "love-hate feud" with the female demon leader Anna Wintour also has to be said.
Andre is only a few months older than Anna, and since the 80s, the two have been on vogue together, Anna is the editor-in-chief, Andre is the creative director, and they have always been recognized as the "golden partners" in the industry.
In the early days, he and Anna created many classics, and although his real power in VOGUE was not as big as that of the editor-in-chief, he supervised most of the articles and shooting plans, and he was the only person in the whole office who could change Anna's decisions.
But in the eyes of outsiders, the tacit understanding of "Soulmate", the real relationship does not seem to be as harmonious and beautiful as everyone thinks...
"She's a person who can't do even the simplest kindness, and she ignores anyone except the celebrities who frequently appear on the cover of VOGUE. If you want to be her friend, you have to be the best in your industry! —Andre said this about Anna in his autobiography released last year.
What makes long-time friends turn their faces? Anna is said to have asked Andre to lose weight vigorously, both for the sake of magazine image and for his personal health. Weight loss achieved some success, but it didn't take long for Andre to leave VOGUE.
Andre later said that although he had been friends with Anna, he was abandoned by her because he was "old, fat, and not cool".
In 1999, the two held hands and appeared on the Red Carpet at the Met Gala
Andre's break with Anna should have another reason. The Met Gala red carpet, which he has been hosting, was replaced by influencer Liza Koshy in 2018 without any expectations, which he said he could not accept, which also became the fuse for the two of them to part ways.
In the following years, Andre went around the circle, but there was no stable foothold, lamenting the great changes in the fashion media, and said that if Anna recruited him back to VOGUE, he would still be impressed. "Sure, but she never will" (really. Sadomasochism).
Just like the prototype of Miranda in the movie "The Queen Wearing Prada" is Anna, the prototype of Miranda's capable general Nigel is Andrei!
If you've seen this movie, you'll be sure to be confident in the ending that Nigel thinks he can become a partner, but is left behind by Miranda. The setting of this plot, corresponding to reality, has to say that it really means a lot
The day after Andre's death, Anna also sent a eulogy: "... Like many decades-long relationships, the ups and downs are a bit complicated. But I just want to remember today the talented, compassionate man who has been a friend of mine and my family for years."
There is no apology, no whitewashing of great friendships, but it can be seen that it is the truest idea - there have been contradictions, but it has passed, and it is enough to remember all the good in the past!
3. What he has brought us
Andre said on the show that his ultimate dream is to make VOGUE into thousands of households, he understands both women's and men's fashion, but also knows how to let everyone enjoy the fashion that suits them.
Fashion Media Review: Andre is one of the few editors who still has a thorough grasp of fashion history, and he can see at a glance what the creative inspiration for your work is and then predict what else you can come up with.
For the newcomers who are eager to enter the fashion circle, Andrei also tries to point out the mystery in his autobiography:
1. Learn from past lessons
2. Don't just learn online
3. In the design work, you can refer to the suggestions of your predecessors
4. After graduation, it is more recommended to accumulate experience in large companies than to set up your own product line
5. Learn to listen
6. When you have other ways, don't choose to mess things up online
Finally, he wrote in his memoir A.L.T.: A Memoir: "I hope that this memoir of mine will give you a moment of 'awakening' to experience what it's like to be in a white space and brave enough to overcome difficulties." “
André Leon Talley, who has shined in the fashion world, is an Icon-like figure who deserves to be remembered, thank you for all his contributions, Rest in Heaven.
Image source: Visual China\Network
Edit: Stacy
Author: Li Yuli
The poster is stylish