Jimu news reporter Lin Chuhan
Video clip Lin Chuhan
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It is almost the end of the year, for the Wuhan people who are wandering outside, a bowl of lotus root rib soup can always arouse the nostalgia for their hometown, the inheritance and inheritance of long-standing eating customs, making simmering soup a major feature of Wuhan people's diet, to a large extent, "drinking soup" is synonymous with "inviting guests to eat", if Chinese New Year's Eve do not drink a bowl of lotus root rib soup, with Wuhan people "no soup is not a table", "the meaning of the soup", as if not drinking soup is not called the New Year. It can be said that a bowl of lotus root rib soup runs through the life and soul of Wuhan people. It is such a simple bowl of soup, condensing all the feelings of Wuhan people, after drinking the soup, a smack, cool.
In Wuhan, when it comes to simmering soup, Yu Shaolin can be said to be known to everyone and everyone to know. In 2012, Yu Shaolin became the provincial representative inheritor of the Intangible Cultural Heritage Project "Wuhan Simmering Soup Technique" in Hubei Province. Smiling eyes, gentle words, 63-year-old Yu Shaolin has a sense of affinity. Gentle and modest, this is the reporter's deepest impression of Yu Shaolin in the one-and-a-half-hour interview. He said that when dealing with food, it is also dealing with people.
A bowl of lotus root rib soup is the most memorable taste
Yu Shaolin's father, Yu Fengshan, was a newborn calf at the age of 13 who was not afraid of tigers and came to Wuhan alone. Hard-working and willing to work hard are the qualities engraved in the bones of that generation, so that Yu Fengshan became a master master step by step from the apprentice of Xiao Taoyuan. Unique "smelling the soup and breaking the fire, judging the quality", Yu Fengshan's soup always needs to queue up for a long time to drink. Yu Shaolin recalled, "My father's soup is famous far and wide, and every day there is an endless stream of people who come to Xiaotaoyuan to buy soup, and it often takes several hours to queue up to buy a bowl of soup. ”
Mao Zedong, Zhou Enlai, Zhu De, Dong Biwu, Li Xiannian, Chen Yi, He Long, and other leaders of the older generation all drank Mr. Yu Lao's simmered soup and gave him the praise of "the king of simmering soup, worthy of his name." Yu Fengshan has made Wuhan "simmering soup" with his life's painstaking efforts and composed the history of Wuhan's "simmering soup".
In Yu Shaolin's memory, soup grew up with himself, when he was a child, although there were many children in the family and the family was not rich, his father would simmer a soup every month to relieve the children's hunger. "My parents always said that we may not be as good as people, but nutrition must keep up, and the body must be well nourished." Among the many soups, Yu Shaolin's favorite drink is the lotus root pork rib soup. A bowl of lotus root rib soup that has just come out of the pot, the aroma seems to be about to penetrate into people's noses, the soup has not yet been drunk in the mouth, and the saliva first flows out without controversy. After the soup is introduced, the taste is rich, mellow and delicious, and the lotus root is pink and rotten to eat. In the memories of Yu Shaolin's youth, on countless nights, the family gathered around the dinner table, drinking a bowl of warm lotus root rib soup, chatting about fresh anecdotes, which is the best way of life.
And whenever his father simmered soup, the young Yu Shaolin always watched curiously with his eyes wide open. "In fact, my father never told me how to do every step of the soup, I just looked at it and understood." Not only looking, Yu Shaolin was always happy to give his father a hand and work as a small helper. Yu Shaolin recalled these childhood anecdotes with a smile on his face and said, "So counting, I've been dealing with Tang for more than 50 years." ”
In this way, Yu Shaolin took over the baton of his father's ancestral simmering soup skills and continued the history of the "simmering soup" family. In 1996, the retired Yu Fengshan and his son Yu Shaolin opened fifteen stages on Hankou Stadium Road, "Wang Wang Simmer Soup House". Against the traditional simmering soup in Wuhan, the restaurant business is hot, one is difficult to find, 15 stations have been unable to meet the daily passenger flow, and then the store upgrade, it moved to the Hankou Development Avenue store. Led by Yu Shaolin, several brothers and sisters of the Yu family changed their original names and founded "Wangwang Simmered Soup".
The king of simmered soup teaches the trick of making soup
When the reporter curiously asked if there was any trick to simmering lotus root rib soup, Yu Shaolin patiently explained the steps of simmering soup to the reporter. Any food selection is the first and most critical step, "First of all, the lotus root, to choose the white lotus root, when selecting to see that it is white, to try to choose the juice white water, such a lotus starch more, simmered up can generally simmer powder." The second is pork, it is best to use the middle of the ribs of the annual pig (a pig out of the pen a year), the quality of the pork, more chewy, aftertaste, to achieve the crisp but not rotten, rotten but not collapsed realm. But now that the pork on the market is out of the barn for three or five months, the simmering time needs to be shortened. When talking about the method, Yu Shaolin said, "Wash the ribs and cut them into small pieces, put the pot in cold water, blanch them first, and after the water boils, skim off the foam, fish out and wash them for later." Then add a small amount of oil in a hot pan, add ginger slices and ribs to the oil, stir-fry for two minutes over medium heat, then transfer to an old-fashioned hanging and simmer. For the treatment of lotus, Yu Shaolin also told reporters a small tip, "Cut the lotus hob and marinate it with a small amount of salt for 15 minutes, and then rinse the salt on the surface with water." A soup, from raw to cooked, takes at least 3 hours to simmer over low heat. ”
Why does the simmered soup sometimes turn black? For this problem, Yu Shaolin told reporters that because the lotus contains polyphenols, it can be combined with iron ions to form a colored complex of purple or blue, so remember that you must not use iron-containing containers to simmer soup, you can use casseroles, stainless steel or ceramics, aluminum and other materials, otherwise the soup will become black. "In addition, the container of simmered soup is also best made of old-fashioned choles, and the older the chole, the more delicious the soup is.
Yu Shaolin developed in the inheritance, and more than 30 varieties of simmered soups, such as "turtle soup", "Yuji turkey soup", "turtle soup" and "vermicelli belly soup", have been rated as famous dishes in China, Hubei and Wuhan. "I taste the soup myself every day, drink my own soup, and never get tired."
As the main manager of "Wangwang Simmering Soup", even if the storefront was once expanded to 6,000 square meters, with as many as 280 employees, Yu Shaolin also insisted on doing everything himself, the dishes were personally selected, for the overnight soup, Yu Shaolin chose to pour it down, not to eat it for anyone, just to ensure that the freshest and most hygienic soup was brought to everyone.
In the interview, Yu Shaolin told reporters that the biggest influence his father gave him was to teach him to be a man, and he always simmered every soup seriously for decades. 'Make soup first to be a person', this is the father said the most to our brothers and sisters, my father said that simmering soup is compared with himself, not compared with others, quietly simmer soup is good, to choose the best ingredients for everyone, the price should be reasonable. Make money innocently, and do business with conscience. ”
I hope to continue to make the sign of Wuhan simmered soup
Yu Shaolin told reporters that because he has always been adhering to the principle of choosing good materials and making soup with his heart, the old Wuhan people always drive to come, just to drink a bowl of soup in memory, "There is an old man in his 70s, every time he comes from Stadium Street (old shop) to drink soup, and also specially sends gifts, I refuse to accept, but he said' Thank you for letting him drink the soup in his childhood memories', and there is also a cultural company boss, from the store to Hankou, has been eating in the store, every year the company's New Year dinner is eaten in our store, we have become very good friends. ”
Speaking of the situation of "Wangwang Simmering Soup" in recent years, the catering master shook his head helplessly. "In 2019, because the road planning problem shop was closed for a while, and then encountered the epidemic, so the 'Wangwang Simmering Soup' was still in a state of suspension of business in the past two years." But it is also a good thing for Yu Shaolin - after a busy life, he can finally rest at home to accompany his family for a while, but the constant calls of old guests make him feel guilty, "Many guests have drunk soup in our house for more than ten years, and even from my father's generation, they have begun to drink, they have drunk feelings, they have become friends, they always call me to ask when to open, everyone owes me soup." ”
For the future plan, Yu Shaolin said that he had not fully thought about it, "In fact, in 2015, someone proposed that I make canned soup and sell it online, but I refused. Drinking canned soup will lose the original intention of drinking soup, Wuhan's soup pays attention to the original taste of eating meat and drinking soup, the soup is the original taste, and the meat must be crisp and fragrant. Canned meat is rotten, has no freshness, and in our jargon, is meat collapse. ”
Over the years, there are not a few people who want to join, but Yu Shaolin has refused, he said: "I told them, 'I don't want to eat tomorrow's meal today'. ”
At the end of the interview, Yu Shaolin said that he would still find an opportunity to continue to make the Wuhan simmering soup sign for the Yu family, "I am now considering the next step to open a takeaway shop, so that it can be delivered as you go." I really love simmering soup and am willing to give my whole life for it, for my father, for myself, and for all my old friends who like us. ”
(Photos and videos provided by Wuhan Jianghan District Intangible Cultural Heritage Protection Center)
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