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author:Su Rong 2

This mountain turn can satisfy the ultimate fantasy of human beings

Original National Geographic National Geographic Chinese 2022-01-21 17:31

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Walking between three sacred mountains,

What kind of wonderful experience will it be?

So there's this hiking route —

"Aden Great Turning Mountain".

It is the ideal country that condenses the ultimate fantasies of mankind;

The essence of "Shangri-La" -

Some people call them "Three Sacred Mountains" and "Three Sacred Mountains";

Its Tibetan name is "Nianqing Gonggari Song Kampot",

"Nian Qing" means great god,

"Gong" is ice and snow, "Ga" is white,

"Nichisong Kampot" is the pronunciation of the Buddha name,

Meaning "Three Sacred Mountains";

What it means is that --

The three highest sacred places of the Protector Sacred Mountain that do not melt all year round,

It can be called the most beautiful existence of the Hengduan Mountain System.

Sennari, 6,032 meters above sea level

5958 meters of Xano Dorjee

5958 meters of Yang Mai Yong,

The three sacred mountains are independent and watch over each other,

It is arranged with the word "pin".

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The Shano Dorjee mountains are covered with ice and snow, and the glacier reaches the foot of the mountain

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From the tail of snake lake, look at Yang Maiyong

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In Tibetan, it means "Avalokiteshvara Bodhisattva" for Xiannairi

(※ Winter is not late in spring - the best season for Aden's Great Turning Mountain is from mid-April to mid-October every year.) If you want to try it, you can start planning and getting ready. This article was taken at the end of October, when the snow season has just arrived; this recommendation is to store it properly. This route is even better than the classic "Rock Road", but regardless of intensity and difficulty, the whole altitude is more than 4000 meters, you need to walk 80 kilometers, over 8 passes, please do what you can

Photo, Author: Harry HarleyTung

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Map of the trajectory of the Great Turning Mountain in Aden

Travel and filming route: Day 1: Aden Village (3900 m) - Luorong Cattle Farm (4150 m) - Bayu Camp (4550 m) Day 2: Bayu Camp (4550 m) - Tso Nad da Lake (4850 m) Day 3: Tso De da Lake (4850 m) - Galo Cattle Farm (4420 m) - Tsakon Cattle Farm (4450 m) Days 4-5: Tsakon Cattle Farm (4450 m) - GongGadze Cattle Farm (4100 m) Day 6: Gonggazze Cattle Farm (4100 m) - Xano Dorjee Pass (4520 m) - Wanhuachi Cattle Farm (4250 m) Day 7: Wanhuachi Cattle Farm (4250 m) - Xinguo Cattle Farm (4300 m) Day 8: Xinguo Cattle Farm (4300 m) - Yangmai Yong Nanpo Yakou (4580 m) Days 9-10: Yangmai Yong Nanpo Yakou (4580 m) - Ya Du Cattle Farm (4500 m) - Snake Lake Lake Tail (4500 m) Day 11: Snake Lake Lake Tail (4500 m) - Songduo Yakou (4650 m) - Aden Village (3900 m)

Day 1

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Aden Village (3900 m) - Luorong Cattle Farm (4150 m) - Bayu Camp (4550 m), the journey takes about 4-5 hours

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In the Bayu camp in the middle of the night, the sky is full of stars shining, like countless silver beads, densely embedded in the night.

In the morning, take a battery car ride from the village of Aden to the Luorong Cattle Farm, which is surrounded by three sacred mountains, the Gongga River runs through the meadows, the forest streams babbling, start the trekking journey through the primeval jungle and bushes, and in the afternoon arrive at the Bayu camp, which is the alpine pasture of the Tibetan people, where National Geographic explorer Joseph Rock camped, facing the Sennari Andyo Mountains.

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Yang Maiyong, at an altitude of 5958 meters, resembles the sword of wisdom in the hands of Manjushri Bodhisattva pointing directly at the firmament, and some friends told me that it is the most beautiful snowy mountain on this planet.

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Day 2

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Bayu Camp (4550 m) – Lake Tsopada (4850 m), the journey takes about 3-4 hours

From Bayu Camp, hike 2 kilometers to the shores of Lake Po Ngoc Tso and then over the Tso Chai Da Pass. Go straight down to Tsodada Lake Camp. During the water-rich period, Tsodyda consists of two lakes, one large and one small; during the dry period, it is divided into several small lakes.

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Little Tsoddah Lake

Day 3

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Lake Tsopada (4850 m) - Galo Cattle Farm (4420 m) - Tsakong Cattle Farm (4450 m), the journey takes about 4-5 hours

Galo Cattle Farm is a cattle barn cluster built by local villagers with stones, with dozens of stone houses. During the cordyceps season between April and June, the cattle farm becomes a temporary shelter for dozens of Tibetans, and during the ice and snow season from late October to March, it is uninhabited.

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A Gallo cattle farm dotted through the wooden houses

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Tsagon Cattle Farm Camp

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There were many Tibetan boys, leading his horses, and gleefully walked past the camp

The Tsakon Cattle Farm, located in the east of Xano Dorjee, is a great location to see Xano Dorjee and photograph the starry sky.

(Slide sideways below to see a panorama of the eastern slope of Xano Dorjee)

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Night fell on the camp of the Chagon cattle farm, and the leader of the group sat in front of the tent to face Xano Dorji; by this time the clouds had dissipated and the brilliant galaxy appeared in front of him.

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The east wall of Xano Dorjee, Rizhao Jinshan

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The morning sun shines on the eastern slope of Chano Dorjee

Days 4-5

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Tsakon Cattle Farm (4450 m) - Gonggazaze Cattle Farm (4100 m), the journey takes about 4 hours

Today head to Gonggazaze Cattle Farm, descend all the way into the primeval forest, and in the afternoon arrive at the birthplace of the Whitewater River, GonggazaZe Cattle Farm. Gonggazaze Cattle Farm is located at the foot of the eastern slope of Xano Dorjee, a stone's throw from the Snow Mountain of Xano Dorjee, and is also the best place to watch the Golden Mountain of Chano Dorjee. A hundred years ago, Joseph Locke camped here for many days, collecting specimens and seeds of animals and plants.

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Gonggazaze cattle farm camp

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Several Tibetan elder brothers were responsible for the transportation of all the supplies for the trip. At this time, they were roasting a fire in the cowshed for warmth. (From left to right: Doding, Row, Toto)

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At 5,958 meters above sea level, Xano Dorjee, meaning "Vajrapani Bodhisattva"

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(Slide sideways below to see the northeastern ridge of Xano Dorjee such as the Great Wall of Boulders)

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Star Orbit of the Northeast Ridge of Chano Dorjee

Day 6

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Gonggazaze Cattle Farm (4100 meters) - Xano Dorjee Pass (4520 meters) - Wanhuachi Cattle Farm (4250 meters), the journey takes about 4 hours

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Xano Dorjee Pass, 4520 meters above sea level

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Stand at the mouth of Xano Dorjee and look out

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The magnificent east wall of Xano Dorjee, along the way the colorful forest is picturesque.

Nestled in a valley on the southeast slope of Xano Dorjee, the Wanhuachi Cattle Farm is also a camp for the traditional Rock Line. We were stationed in a newly built wooden house.

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Wanhuachi cattle farm camp

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The south wall of Chano Dorjee is shining on the Golden Mountain

Day 7

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Wanhuachi Cattle Farm (4250 meters) - Xinguo Cattle Farm (4300 meters), the journey is about 5-6 hours

After breakfast, we crossed the Zabala Pass to the valley on the south slope of YangmaiYong, and then crossed the 4400-meter small yakou and then arrived at the Xinguo Cattle Farm, the section from Wanhuachi Cattle Farm to Xinguo Cattle Farm coincides with the traditional Rock Line, which is also the classic camp on the hiking route of Aden Great Turning Mountain and Rock Line, the journey takes about 5-6 hours.

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The new fruit cattle farm has abundant water sources and the terrain is open like a long dragon

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New fruit cattle farm Wangyang Mai Yong Wei Feng

Located on the southern slope of Yangmaiyong, Xinguo Cattle Farm is an open and flat alpine pasture divided into two places with a small stream running through it. The steep southern slope of Yangmaiyong stretches out like a huge wall, but this majestic peak is not the main peak of Yangmaiyong, but the ridge line extended by the main peak - the real main peak peak will appear on the next day.

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Yangmai Yong Southern Slope Wei Peak Sunshine Jinshan

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Sunset over Yangmaiyong Southern Slope Wei Peak

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Overlooking the new fruit cattle farm, the southern slope of Yangmaiyong is magnificent.

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Night falls on the new fruit cattle farm

Day 8

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Xinguo Cattle Farm (4300 meters) - Yangmaiyong South Slope Yakou (4580 meters), the journey is about 1-2 hours

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Yangmaiyong south slope yakou, 4580 meters above sea level.

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It is also the best viewing point on the southern slope of Yangmaiyong

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Yangmai Yong South Wall, Rizhao Jinshan

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YangMaiyong South Slope Yakou camp late at night

Days 9-10

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Yangmaiyong South Slope Pass (4580 meters) - Ya du cattle farm (4500 meters) - Snake Lake Lake Tail (4500 meters), the journey is about 5-6 hours

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Sipping the small haizi near the cattle farm

Cut along the long southwest slope of Yangmaiyong, over the 4750-meter Black Lake Pass; then along the mountain path to the Solitary Cattle Farm; the Solitary Cattle Farm is rich in water and grass, there is a small lake nearby, not far from the stone houses of local herders; you can also see the butterfly stone that Joseph Locke once took a picture of, also known as the "Rock Stone".

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Butterfly stone, also known as Rock Stone, was photographed here by Dr. Locke a hundred years ago

The snake lake is called Lesizo, also known as the Sea of Wisdom. Shaped like a large snake, it is the largest alpine sea in the Aden region, with a narrow cone; it is about 1.4 km long from east to west, and the lake is verdant. The east side is the inlet, the west side is the outlet, the east end of the snake lake is the snake head, the west end is the snake tail, the lake tail is the best camera position to shoot the sunrise and reflection of Yang Mai Yong.

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Snake Lake

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Yang Mai Yong West Wall, Rizhao Jinshan

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At the end of snake lake, the western slope of Yangmaiyong reflects the sun shining golden mountain

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Shoot the Yangmai Yong West Slope Star Orbit at the tail of Snake Lake

Day 11

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Snake Lake Tail (4500 meters) - Songta Pass (4650 meters) - Aden Village (3900 meters), the journey is about 5-6 hours

Before dawn, we set off from the Snake Lake camp, went to the 4650-meter Songta Yakou, photographed the Xiannai Sun Morning Sun, crossed the Yakou and entered the Aden Scenic Area, crossed the Milk Sea, the Five-ColorEd Sea, went down the cliff to the Luorong Cattle Farm, and took the scenic sightseeing car back to Aden Village. At this point, the "Aden Great Turning Mountain" trip is all over.

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On the southern slope of Sennari, the sacred mountain is 6,032 meters above sea level, which means "Guanyin Bodhisattva" in Tibetan

Legend has it that The Three Sacred Mountains are the incarnations of three bodhisattvas who guard the land: The Northern Peak Sennari is the incarnation of Guanyin Bodhisattva; the South Peak Yang Mai Yong is the incarnation of Manjushri Bodhisattva; and the East Peak Shano Dorjee is the avatar of vajrapani Bodhisattva. The locals believe that the more you turn the mountain in the snowy mountains of the Three Lords, the more you will eliminate sin and increase your merit. This is the essence of "Shangri-La", the ideal country that embodies the ultimate fantasy of mankind.

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