While the industry is still doubting whether the global beauty market has reached saturation, a new wave of independent brands is on the rise in Italy, and until then, the country is better known for its strong supply chain and leading cosmetics manufacturers than for sensational brands.
But as the pandemic accelerates the digitization of the beauty market and local consumers become more familiar with online shopping, a new generation of entrepreneurs see opportunities to compete in the endless spaces of the digital world and are finally trying to change the old rules that limit Italian beauty players behind the scenes rather than coming into the spotlight.
According to the latest forecast released by Cosmetica Italia, the revenue of the Italian beauty market will grow by 8.5% to 10.6 billion euros in 2021, while online sales will see the largest increase of 29.7%, as all distribution channels show signs of recovery last year. Although the number of €900 million online sales still accounts for only a small share, the channel has shown great growth potential.
Over the past few years, some digital native brands have seized this opportunity to take advantage of the changes caused by the epidemic. Skin Labo and Shampora, for example, expanded into new markets last year with their popular skincare products and customizable hair care products, respectively, and Veralab, a body care brand launched by "influencer" blogger Cristina Fogazzi in 2015, grew exponentially during the pandemic, with sales almost doubling to €55 million in 2020, allowing the brand to expand its physical sales network, including physical stores in Milan and Rome Rinascente and the Pinalli perfume chain expanded distribution and made it onto the shelves of pharmacies last year.
Veralab's new store in Rome
Espressoh was one of the first italian brands to foresee the trend of quick and easy beauty, and it remains one of the most successful examples of niche brands. Launched in 2018 by Chiara Cascella, the Instagram-friendly makeup brand is now one of millennial consumers' favorite brands with its high focus on product development, engaging visuals, highly interactive consumer communications and fun marketing campaigns from newsstand makeshift stores to collaborations with independent artists and galleries.
In addition to gradually expanding its category and sales network through partnerships such as Sephora in Asia, Espressoh stands out for its ability to build its community, a skill that is being valued by a growing number of beauty brands, especially skincare brands.
Espressoh
Italy's fashion leader Erika Boldrin founded natural vegan skincare brand Honieh in 2019 after transforming her lifestyle into vegan and healthy. Priced between 19 and 46 euros, the brand includes cleansing mousse, creams, multi-purpose oils, three masks and serums, all formulated by the AIAB Association (Italian Organic Agriculture Association), guaranteeing that the ingredients are natural, environmentally friendly and that the use of chemicals is restricted in production. Last year, Honieh began venturing into brick-and-mortar retail, opening a pop-up store in Rinascente and a counter at Modes.
Honieh
Adesso is a Basic Italian skincare brand with a French flair, founded by three sisters enrica, Mariolina and Cecilia Sangalli, who live in Italy and France, who want to create beauty solutions that suit their busy lifestyles, hence the brand's name meaning "now" and focusing on the three pillars of healthy skin: cleansing, protecting and moisturizing. The brand's products are designed to conserve water in a wash-free form, including cleaning gels, multi-layer protective masks, repair creams and more, and cost between €20 and €35.
Adesso clean gel
Skincare brand Lieve, which was officially launched six months ago, also promotes a simple and gentle skincare approach, with its "pure" seasonal formula containing more than 95% natural ingredients and fragrance-free, with prices ranging from €28 to €42, with star products including Sudden Light Multivitamin And Haruhana Moisturizing Serum with Sakura Extract, Hyaluronic Acid and Collagen.
Lieve Sudden Light Multivitamin Extract
Coinciding with this trend towards lean skincare is the new brand's focus on specific market segments. Take sunscreen brand Darling, launched in 2018 by Alberto Giacobazzi and Ilenia Gebennini, with the goal of making sunscreen products cooler and raising awareness among consumers, especially younger consumers, about the importance of skin protection.
Darling uses pastel tones, recyclable packaging and eye-catching visuals, as well as a Made in Italy formula rich in vitamin E, aloe vera and jojoba oil. The brand offers sunscreen-related products priced between €29 and €41, including moderate and highly protective lotions, creams, after-sun products and tanning products, which are sold in select independent stores in 19 countries and at major retailers such as Liberty and Galeries Lafayette, in addition to e-commerce platforms.
Darling sun protection collection
Permano focuses on elevating the hand care experience. The brand was founded by a group of young entrepreneurs from different industries who wanted to make everyday habits more attractive and sustainable.
Following the introduction of moisturizing and fragrance hand disinfectant sprays, the brand's range of products has expanded to include solid soaps, liquid soaps and moisturizing hand creams, and is available in recyclable aluminium and FSC-certified cartons in refillable product formats ranging from €10 to €29.
Permano
Another strategy for these cutting-edge brands is to base the brand on a key ingredient. For Imersa, a skincare brand from Martina Gamboni and Stefano Lorenzoni, this ingredient is sericin, a silk protein used in all of the brand's products to provide long-lasting hydration, skin protection and elasticity.
Silk Cocoons scrub made of sericin and silk pigment is one of the best products, when used, the "cocoon" in the product needs to be immersed in warm water, and then massaged on the finger to massage the face, using the rough surface of the silk to play an exfoliation role.
Imersa Lip Balm and Silk Cocoons Scrub
Iuva's recipe is based on pomace of Barbera grapes from the Montferrato vineyards in the Piedmont region. These by-products of the winemaking process are reused in skincare products, where waste can also be reduced and have a more positive impact on the environment. Iuva retails for between €17 and €35 and offers scrub masks, anti-aging creams and more.
Iuva matte mask
Beauty Thinkers follows a similar brand line of thought, with the main ingredients coming from centuries-old olive trees grown in the mountains of Umbria. Launched three months ago by Claudio Castiglioni, former Global General Manager of Tod's, the brand offers a scientific skincare formula based on hydroxytyrosol, an antioxidant derived from the by-products produced by olive oil.
Beauty Thinkers Antioxidant Boost 面油
After extracting technology and formulating properties supported by research by the University of Ferrara and its Ambrosialab, the brand has launched a new refillable antioxidant face oil and moisturizer for €58 and €88 respectively.
Aeqium
Aeqium, which also has a scientific background, aims to raise awareness of the correlation between skin and overall health by providing dermatological-grade skincare and nutraceuticals that exert synergistic effects. Founded by Francesco Balestrieri, Nicola Balestrieri and Alla Reitsma, the brand sells for between €70 and €165 and includes cleansers and moisturizers for the face and body, as well as two supplements designed to purify the body and enhance the skin's regeneration process. WWD
Written by Sandra Salibian
Edit Lee
Image source network