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The forgotten traditional snack of Chengdu - Sanhe mud (Part 1)

author:The optimistic Dong ge loves life

Yuan Ming, a Qing dynasty, said in the "Dim Sum List" of the "Suiyuan Food List": "Prince Liang Zhaoming used dim sum as a snack, and Zheng Qi's sister-in-law advised his uncle and dim sum, which has an old origin." Make a dim sum list. It can be seen that Chinese's dietary life has long existed in the distinction between regular food and snacks, although there is still a difference between snacks and snacks, it can already be said that snacks are an indispensable part of the Chinese diet. It is said that "food in China, taste in Sichuan, snacks in Chengdu", Chengdu snacks have become a business card of Chengdu (always remember a friend when he learned that I was going to Chengdu to study, he made a very envious state, and earnestly told him to eat all over Chengdu snacks, and must have a conscience to remember to bring her back some, it is really not okay she will have to personally enter Shu, that kind of green light rubbing their fists is really impressive), when it comes to Chengdu snacks, people will naturally think of Dan Dan noodles, sour chili powder, zhong shui dumplings, Husband and wife lung slices and so on these fresh and spicy delicacies, my impression of Sichuan's Chengdu was inseparable from the word "spicy" at first. So when I learned that the triad mud, which is completely different from the Sichuan snacks that everyone is familiar with, whether in terms of taste or materials, I have a strong interest. There is such a sentence in Mr. Yi Zhongtian's "Reading the City": "Chengdu people talk like they drink wine and eat vegetables, pay attention to the strength and taste, fierce and fierce, fierce than spicy and hot, sweet and sweeter than three-in-one mud." It seems that the sweetness of the three-in-one mud is more famous, according to some information, it is "crispy and sweet, nourishing and refreshing" and self-contained.

Sanhe mud is a dessert that spreads in most parts of western Sichuan, so named because it requires three main ingredients to make, and the finished product is in the shape of a soup paste. This dessert has two different ways to choose three main ingredients, one is to use red dates, white lotus and green beans as the main ingredients, and the other is based on glutinous rice, black beans and sesame seeds.

The forgotten traditional snack of Chengdu - Sanhe mud (Part 1)

Triad mud

The three-in-one mud made of red dates, white lotus and green beans as the main ingredients is more cumbersome, first the washed dates and lotus seeds are steamed, peeled, and the core is crushed into a puree, and the green beans are also boiled into a puree, and the juice is sieved with water. The crushed rock sugar and the osmanthus sugar filtered with water are mixed into a juice, and the date paste, green bean juice and lotus seed puree are fried in a hot oil pot and made into three different colors of puree. The lotus seed mud is put into a large basin as the bottom, and then the date puree and green bean puree are placed on both sides of it, accounting for 1/2 of the Tai Chi figure. The three colors of the formed triad mud are different and become one with each other, as if three different people are hugging each other tightly, quite a bit of unity, people take the meaning of its color, white is regarded as Liu Bei, red is regarded as Guan Yu, and cyan is regarded as Zhang Fei, so the triad mud of this practice is also known as "Taoyuan Three Knots".

Another kind of three-in-one mud method is more common, just sautéed glutinous rice, black beans, sesame seeds (also said to rice, glutinous rice, soybeans three kinds of raw materials) grinded into a fine powder in boiling water stirred into a paste, made into a blank, placed in a hot oil pot with peanut kernels, walnuts, sesame seeds stir-fried over low heat until crispy, put in sugar and a variety of candied fruits and fry out of the pot. This triad of mud is moist and crispy, sweet and not greasy, and rich in nutrients.

The forgotten traditional snack of Chengdu - Sanhe mud (Part 1)

It is said that the triad mud was founded in 1926 by Chengdu people Huangshushan and Zhou Daxing, initially by the two people in the Nine Eyes Bridge cooperative operation, after huangshu mountain alone for more than 30 years, and continuous research and improvement, because of its rich nutrition and low price, welcomed by the masses, known as "Nine Eyes Bridge Triad mud". Later, it was operated by Guyuehu Sweet Shop, so it was also known as "Guyuehu Sanhe Mud". Now it seems to be operated by the Snow Garden Snack Bar, the Snow Garden Triad Mud on the basis of the Huang Ji Triad Mud, to be reformed, not only using traditional ingredients, but also adding orange, rose, melon strips and other new accessories, so that the oily, soft, sweet triad mud adds more charm, welcomed by diners. In December 1990, Xueyuan Sanhe Mud was named "Chengdu Famous Snack" by Chengdu Municipal People's Government.

In addition, this kind of satisfaction of the "tourist psychology" requirements also makes the development of Chengdu snacks very easy to fall into the trap of development. Take dan dan noodles, for example, which were originally designed to provide energy replenishment for the hungry ladies and ladies who were rubbing mahjong until three times in the middle of the night, and the vendors carried the burden, and the two ends of the burden were placed with stewed old hen soup and the stove under the strip, and they carried the streets through the alley. When the noodles are first born, they are picked into a bowl and taken to have resilience. The ingredients in the bowl are only salt, pepper, a little winter vegetable crumbs, minced shallots, pea tips, and then scoop a large scoop of fragrant soup into the pot next to the chicken soup and pour it into the noodles, and the noodles are then placed on top of some very thinly torn chicken shreds, and the white noodles are accompanied by golden chicken soup, plus the green pea tip and the minced shallots, which can be said to be a delicate and nutritious light snack.

Nowadays, many dandan noodles have become spicy, and it seems that Chengdu's things have to be spicy to be characteristic, which loses its original feeling. It can be said that the word "spicy" has made Chengdu famous, and it has also misled the development of snacks. Spicy and fragrant snacks can better reflect this so-called local characteristics and have been developed more, while sweet foods like Sanhe mud have been greatly marginalized (now the only impression of Foreigners mentioning Chengdu snacks is "spicy", I come from other places, I can deeply feel this. At first I thought so, but after a few years, I began to understand it from a new understanding, and began to explain to more friends that it is not just spicy that can summarize chengdu's diet, it also has many other factors, and my hometown Xuzhou is even more spicy. I really don't understand where this single understanding comes from.) I think this can be said to be a huge crisis of the whole Chengdu snack, I hope it is better not to lose yourself because of the misunderstanding or simplification of others.

The forgotten traditional snack of Chengdu - Sanhe mud (Part 1)

Nowadays, it is more common in Chengdu to bear the noodles

Also said back to the three mud, I finally found the "snow garden three mud" in a snack bar on Renmin Middle Road, served in a small bowl, and the color of brown sugar is somewhat similar, it is black brown, the first bite to eat it realized that it must be fried paste, there is a faint paste smell, continue to eat it is good, the thicker taste of tangerine peel covers the paste. The overall taste was average, but after eating it, the idea of "I finally ate it" still surged up, so I was more worried about its future. I remember reading some articles about Sanhe Mud on the Internet, an author wrote that when he was a child, he was led by his father through countless long alleys to find the stalls of Sanhe Mud, and the kind of expectations in the search, greed and excitement when eating were warm and sweet, and that kind of snack had really strong vitality.

The forgotten traditional snack of Chengdu - Sanhe mud (Part 1)

Recently, I saw an article recalling the Nine Eyes Bridge, talking about the prosperous night market around Bacon Road in those years, mentioning that there was a three-in-one mud at the head of the Nine Eyes Bridge, which was very famous, and even occupied a lot of space in the newspapers of that year. At that time, many students who were in love took it as a wonderful place for weekend tooth sacrifices and dates, so the three-in-one mud was privately called "love three-in-one mud".

In that era of widespread lack of oil and meat, the greasy and sweet triad mud became the best choice to understand hunger and enhance feelings. The aftertaste and nostalgia in the text are filled with words and lines, which makes people yearn for it. So I can't help but think, what will I think of when I think back on my life at Sichuan University many years later? Is it a skewer of incense? Is it sauerkraut bean blossoms? Is it an omelette at The Red Watts Temple? Or the Leshan beef tofu brain in that alley? But I'm sure it's definitely not a "famous snack" like mapo tofu, dan dan noodles, and so on.

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