In the 1940s, a song was circulated on the campus of Sichuan University: "The nine-eyed bridge looks strange, and the mutton mash is rotten with mud." The three-in-one mud stall is famous and a treasure trove for men and women to date. A spoonful of sweet as honey, the heart is imprinted in the heart. "It is said that at that time, the Nine Eyes Bridgehead soup was fragrant and meaty Li Ji mutton soup, Lu Jia mashed tangyuan, and the sweet and sticky, delicious Huang Ji triad mud.
The so-called "triad mud" refers to the three main raw materials used, glutinous rice and rice, soybeans or black beans and sesame seeds, stir-fried and then ground into a fine powder, and then sieved, and then mixed with syrup to make a blank, with lard, sugar hot pot stir-fried over low heat, add roasted walnut kernels, peanut kernels, preserved fruits, fried until sweet glutinous crisp, oily and delicious. After cooking, it can be simmered over low heat to keep the pan unpaqueded, and when customers come, the mud is still hot. If you use soybeans and white sesame seeds, fry it is yellow-brown, if you use black beans and black sesame seeds, the finished product is black, and with red beans and white sesame seeds, it is naturally red.
Tourist attraction cauldron triad mud
The characteristics of the triad mud are black and bright, the smell is rich in fragrance, the taste is silky and sticky, sesame, walnuts, peanuts, glutinous rice, etc. are all fragrant raw materials, after a long time of stir-frying, the aroma of raw materials is more vividly emitted to blend together, coupled with the special oil aroma of lard, it is really a reward for the stomach of the widow. Stir-fried authentic three-in-one mud, non-stick teeth, non-stick spoon, non-stick bowl, known as "three non-stick". Because the triad mud contains a lot of grease and sugar, eating more will feel very greasy, coupled with the lard will slowly cool and condense after leaving the pot, there will be a feeling of bloating, so the triad mud needs to be hot food is better, and with red and white tea, to relieve the greasy mouth. It is said that eating sweets can make people feel happy and have a relaxed and pleasant feeling. Therefore, people have a sense of fear of ingesting too many calories, and at the same time, it is difficult to resist the pleasure it brings to the tongue and mood.
People's nostalgia for the triad mud is also the moment of tasting pastries and drinking red and white tea. Because this tea is light and degreasing. A few years ago, when eating triad mud, red and white tea was the standard tea of triad mud. This is also the original of the small food stall that specializes in triad mud by the Nine Eyes Bridge a few decades ago. Triad mud, made of bento, good quality, sweet glutinous mud, light tea, so that the lack of oil and water tongue and stomach, by the nutritious and sweet sesame seeds, peanuts, walnuts, preserved fruits moisturized, soothed, no longer need to waterlogged stomach to calculate which day to go to the restaurant to play a tooth sacrifice.
Guanghan triad mud
When I was a child, I was very fond of the Nine-Eyed Bridge Huangji Triad Mud. Today, only old Chengdu people can recall the smell of the old three-in-one mud next to the Chunxi intersection and the Hongqi Shopping Mall in the 1960s and 1970s. Perhaps because today's living materials are no longer scarce, there are too many more exquisite Chinese and foreign sweets at hand, and the triad mud is no longer a beautiful snack for relieving tuberculosis and hunger. But in that era when chai rice oil, salt sauce and vinegar tea had to be supplied in limited quantities by ticket, there was a bowl of hot hot oil, sweet and sticky dots, and took a small bite of the product in the hand to eat, how moist and satisfied.
The triad mud is rich in high fat, high sugar and high calorific energy, which conflicts with the healthy diet of low fat, low sugar and low calorie advocated today. However, the delicious memories, food culture and city customs it carries are what many old Chengdu people are worried about. In the past, Chengdu was most famous for the Nine-Eyed Bridge "Huangji Sanhe Mud" sung in the song, and later "GuyueHu Sanhe Mud", "Snow Garden Sanhe Mud" and Guanghan Sanhe Mud. In fact, the last two triad muds have a direct or indirect "blood vein" relationship with the "Huangji triad mud"
Triad mud, a 'mud' word, although very local, but it is indeed a delicious food.
Huang Ji triad mud
Around the mid-1920s, Sanhe Mud appeared at the head of the Nine Eyes Bridge in Chengdu and was created by a family named Huangshushan. At first, Huang Shushan was fried at home every day, put in a bamboo basket with a bowl, and then brewed with red and white tea in a porcelain pot, sold at the bridge, and sold every Dragon Boat Festival. Not long, his three-in-one mud sold famous, in the home speculation is also in short supply, but also busy, he will set up a stall at the head of the Nine Eyes Bridge to sell now, the business is more prosperous and social, and then simply rented a small façade, opened a shop to sell, named "Huang Ji Sanhe mud". Every evening, many people come to eat triad mud. Sanhe mud is fried and sold, small copper pot stir-fry, up to three bowls at a time, fried three bowls of mud is very fragrant, eat in the mouth, feel the aroma is strong, the taste is sweet, so the reputation is popular.
Huang Ji Sanhe mud was originally an ancestral health food in the home of Huang Shushan's wife. One is for a midnight snack, and the other is for nourishing health. Later, the family road declined, and the mother Wu married her daughter to Huangshushan. The Huang family was also poor, so Huang Shushan's wife and husband made this sweet to sell to maintain their livelihood. According to the ancestral secret recipe and health principle, glutinous rice, black beans, black sesame seeds, and then add amaranth, lotus rice, etc., stir-fry and grind into powder to make raw materials. When eating, add crushed peanut kernels, walnut kernels, sugar, etc., mix with water to form a drier mud ball, put it in a lard pot and stir-fry until fragrant. Huang Shushan's wife was weak when she was young, so she often ate and learned to make it. Ancestors called this "Yangyuan Powder", which has the functions of strengthening the spleen and moisturizing the lungs, replenishing the qi, nourishing the heart and calming the spirit, and clearing the heat and dampness.
Huang Shushan and his wife are knowledgeable people, after opening a small shop, the furniture supplies, pots and pans are more exquisite, the so-called gourmet utensils, pay special attention to cleanliness and hygiene, and the reception of guests is also gentle and elegant. He also took into account that the cost of stir-frying according to the old formula was high, and most of the food was poor students and poor people, so he no longer used amaranth and lotus rice, but instead made excellent efforts in material selection, processing and stir-frying. Peanuts and walnuts should be blistered with boiling water to swell and chopped into small pieces; glutinous rice, black beans, black sesame seeds are carefully screened, fried and polished into a fine powder; pork plate oil is picked out of the oil film, washed and dried, and then refined into purified lard; when stir-frying, insist on using a small pot to stir-fry, the elderly eat, fry to get more sticky, young people eat, then fry some crisp, slightly up the pot, but not paste, not scorched, the amount of oil is also according to the preferences of guests. After frying, use a small bowl of fine porcelain blue and white flowers, a small spoon, and then send a bowl of red and white tea that is suitable for clearing after eating the three mud.
In this way, the Huang Ji Sanhe mud after opening the store is not only an indispensable flavor snack for students, but also a feng shui treasure place for young men and women to give their affection, Qingqing me, fragrant and sweet, and talk about love. Huang Ji's reputation spread throughout the four doors. Not only ordinary people flock to the area, but many dignitaries and nobles and bachelors also admire the name of a product. For a time, Huang Ji Sanhe mud became a popular food for the neighbors.
Red bean paste triad mud
Ancient Moon Hu Triad Mud
In Sichuan snacks, the surname as the name of the shop abounds, and the surname is taken apart and then taken together as the name of the store, and only the "Gu Yue Hu" family. "Gu Yue Hu" was originally a sweet shop that moved from the north during the War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression in 1940, and set up a shop in the downtown commercial yard, dealing in fritters, soy milk, lily porridge, soybean milk porridge, eight treasure porridge, etc., especially with fritters golden, crispy and fragrant, large head, straight roots, clear contours, and a very refreshing look and taste. However, in the early 1950s, it moved to Shuncheng Street, and it was not long before it closed its doors, and the owner switched to selling small dishes.
After the resumption of operation in Anle City, Chengdu in 1957, "Guyue Hu" was merged with Huang Ji Sanhe Ni, and Huang Shushan was transferred to the "Gu Yue Hu" sweet shop and hung up the sign of "Huang Ji Sanhe Mud". At the same time, in accordance with the opinions of the "Guyuehu" master, some improvements have been made in the stir-frying of the three-in-one mud, adding fruit preserves such as winter melon sugar and orange cakes, making the color beautiful, more moist and delicious, and eating a richer and more nourishing taste. In this way, the Huangji Sanhe Mud was transformed into "Guyue Hu Sanhe Mud", which was still made by Huang Shushan himself, and also taught the skills with apprentices. When Huang Shushan died in 1971, the "Guyue Hu Sanhe Ni" was presided over by his high-ranking disciple Huang Mingquan, who was soon forced to close due to civil unrest in the Cultural Revolution.
By the early 1980s, the "Guyue Hu Sanhe Mud", which had disappeared for more than ten years, was quietly listed next to the original Hongqi Mall, and the narrow single-room shop was quietly listed. A long table, a large stove, a large iron pot, placed under the stairs against the wall outside the shop, and at the door of the shop is a service desk for collecting money and selling tickets, in which four or five long tables and benches are placed, a total of three or four staff. Although it looks a little simple, it is still a diner Yingmen, the author is one of them, often go to taste, while eating while standing in front of the stage, watching the stir-frying of the triad mud, watching, smelling, tasting, still very authentic. Once, I accidentally met the old man of Huangshu Mountain after a leisure break, who looked quite spirited, but he drove a little on his back, often sitting on a bamboo chair at the door to bask in the sun, and now he should be almost 90 years old! I remember going to his shop to eat triad mud, and seeing that he always had a self-wrapped leaf cigarette, it was very strong enough, and a cigarette had to be smoked for a day or two. After a few more years, due to demolition, I don't know where it was transferred. Sometimes I want to eat it, but it is futile to find it for several days, which makes people a little unhappy.
Also in 1980, Huang Zhirong, the son of Huang Shushan, with the skills and ancestral recipes he learned from his father when he was more than ten years old, and took his son to set up another banner, re-established the Nine Eyes Bridge, the birthplace of the family business, and supported the sign of "Huang Ji Lao No. 3 He Mud". This delicious dessert, which has been loved by chengdu men, women and children for half a century, wants to be the same as it was then, smiling and welcoming guests from all over the world under the love of Sichuan University students, and reliving the sweetness, aroma, warmth and style of Huang Ji Sanhe clay in his father's generation. But unfortunately, in the late 1990s, due to urban renovation and demolition, the old Sanhe mud had to close its doors, and today's Sanhe mud is only the label of three raw materials, sweet and oily, and the unique aroma, moist, oily and not greasy is also gone.
Triad mud with silver ear soup is also a top-quality tonic snack
However, there are still many admirers of Guyue Hu Sanhe Mud, and there are many foreign tourists who inquire about the traces of Guyue Hu. Even Chengdu people who are now 40 or 50 years old, as long as they mention the sanhe mud, they will immediately think of the "Guyue Hu" in front of the Hongqi Mall - handed over 3 maojiao tickets, the master cut a piece of glutinous rice, soybeans, dates made of embryos into the pot, and then drove the walnuts, peanuts, and fruit beds down a little, and after a few minutes a sweet aroma came out of the sizzling sound of lard stir-frying. In the era when sugar, grain and oil were limited supply, a piece of three-in-one mud was full of crisp and sweet oil in the mouth, "that is called authentic, that is called addiction, think of it all hungry."
Another sister shop of "Guyue hu", the "Snow Garden Sweet Shop" in The Admiral Street of Chengdu Cultural Palace, was also taught the skills of Huangshushan that year, and on the basis of Huangji Sanhe mud, some improvements were made in terms of ingredients, taste and taste, and together with "Guyue Hu Sanhe Mud", it became "Chengdu Famous Snack". "Triad mud" later spread to all parts of Bazi in western Sichuan, and the Guanghan triad mud was most appreciated by diners.
Now, at flower fairs, temple fairs, holiday snack exhibitions, and popular tourist attractions, especially Jinli, Wenshu Fang, Kuanzhai Alley, etc., there are shoddily made cauldrons of mud. This classic snack, because of the "three highs", let people stay away, so unfortunately lying shot, quietly. This is also a hypocritical misdirection. Even if it is the so-called "three highs", you do not eat every day, eat often, and taste it once in a while to relieve hunger and comfort your body and mind, so why not enjoy it.
Pujiang Xilai ancient town Qiaogu chuan snack bar sanhe mud
Deputy Editor-in-Chief of the Editorial Board of "Sichuan Province Chronicle • Sichuan Cuisine Chronicle" Sichuan Cuisine Culture Person Sichuan Cuisine Contributor
Author of "A Hundred Years of Sichuan Cuisine Legend", "The History of Sichuan Cuisine on the Roadside", and "Three Hundred Years of Spicy Hemp Temptation"
Original Graphics · Jianghu Gluttony East 2019.04.11 Chengdu