<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > gossip about Hunan cuisine10 Hunan cuisine classic Zu'an cuisine</h1>
Zuan shark fin soup
Gossip About Hunan Cuisine 10 Hunan Cuisine Classic Zu'an Cuisine
Zhang Xiaoxiong
To say that the classic Hunan cuisine is naturally the ancestral dish of the Tan Yanmin Mansion of the Chaling people.
Zu'an cuisine was developed on the basis of the family cuisine of the Republic of China politician and Hunan celebrity Tan Yanmin. Prior to this, cooking in various parts of Hunan was basically local vegetables, private dishes and household dishes, with the premise of eating a full stomach and not forming a cuisine system. Zu'an cuisine was created by Tan Yanmin's home cook, and it has a distinctly rich color from the beginning. The characteristics of its official cuisine are particularly prominent. Zu'an cuisine pays attention to the word "fine", and the selection of ingredients and production are very exquisite. It is said that in Tan Yanmin's home, even if it was an ordinary raw material, when to take, when to make, and when to eat, there were exquisite. There is a saying called "cabbage before frost, turnips after frost, spring shoots in winter, early leeks and late pineapples, ducks in autumn, fish in winter." ”
Tan Yanmin, zi zu'an, born into a family, was not only one of the leaders of the Republic of China, but also a senior diner in the late Qing Dynasty and early Min. Tan Yanmin once said: "Eating, drinking, and gambling are the four major hobbies of life." Gambling has nothing to do with me, and I can't quit eating and drinking. ”
Of course, Tan Yanmin does not cook his own dishes, and Zu'an cuisine is actually founded by his family chef Cao Xingchen Cao Siye. In the official cuisine from the late Qing Dynasty to the Republic of China, there were two "Tan family cuisine" lines, the "Tan family cuisine" of Tan Zongjun in Beijing and the "Tan family dish" in Tan Yanmin's home, so it is called "South Tan" and "North Tan". In order to avoid misunderstanding, coupled with the Tan Yan Min character Zu'an, "庵" is a small grass house, which has the meaning of homesickness, hoping that the wanderers who are out to eat Tan family dishes can temporarily alleviate homesickness, so they are named Zu'an dishes.
In June 1922, tan Yanmin was attending a banquet in Hangzhou when he met Cao Xingchen, a chef from Changsha. They were old acquaintances more than a decade ago. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, when Tan Yanmin was the speaker of the Hunan Provincial Consultative Bureau, he had many contacts with Zhuang Gengliang, the envoy of Hunan Province (Fantai), and Cao Xingchen was the chef of the Fantai Yamen at that time. Tan Yanmin has eaten the dishes made by Cao Xingchen many times, which is extremely praised. In 1910, when there was a wave of rice grabbing in Changsha, Zhuang Gengliang was dismissed by the Qing court and returned to his hometown of Jiangsu with Cao Xingchen. Later, Cao Xingchen left his old owner's house and set up his own restaurant in Hangzhou.
Tan Yanmin and Cao Xingchen, who is well versed in the essence of Huaiyang cuisine, were reunited in Hangzhou. After the meal, Tan Yanmin asked Cao Xingchen, "Would you like to follow me to the house to cook?" Cao gladly agreed. On June 14, Tan Yanmin's diary recorded: "Cao Kitchen is from Hangzhou, staying in Zhizhi. ”
Tan Yanmin successively served as the chairman of the National Government in Nanjing and the president of the Executive Yuan, holding a high position of authority. Whether in his hometown of Hunan or In Nanjing, Kyoto, the daily courtyard is like a city, diners such as carp across the river, "Tan Family Cuisine" relies on Tan Yanmin's high position and Cao Xingchen's exquisite cooking skills, becoming a very famous official cuisine of that era, forming a cuisine system, and generalizing it.
After Tan Yanmin's death, Tan Fu "took the food of Cao Kitchen as too expensive to stay, and sent him back to Xiang the following year." Cao Xingchen returned to Changsha and opened a "JianYuan" restaurant in Pozi Street, and all the dishes he pushed were named "Zu'an Cuisine", which became the pinnacle of Hunan cuisine and became famous for a while.
Zu'an cuisine has four major characteristics:
First, use the right materials. Zu'an cuisine on the choice of raw materials pay attention to the local time, meat is more about the animal parts, such as pork front leg meat, hind leg meat, pork belly, respectively suitable for what kind of dishes are exquisite. Fish practices, fish varieties, where the fish are, and which seasons are also exquisite. The materials used are all high-grade materials, treasure materials, and fresh materials.
The second is the exquisite knife workmanship. There are more than ten kinds of basic knife techniques for Zu'an cuisine, which makes the dishes change endlessly. "Hundred pages of hair" are as thin as silver hair, "comb hundred pages" are shaped like comb teeth, "loin of the cow" is as thin as tissue paper, and "eel garlic moss" is as thin as a matchstick. Its knife technique is strange, the form is realistic, and it is shaped according to the taste, and it has both shape and taste. Such as "red simmered eight treasure chicken", the whole chicken peeled, filled with water without leakage, the resulting dish, the shape is complete and handsome, the meat is soft and crisp, and the food is full of flavor.
The third is longer than seasoning. Zu'an cuisine pays attention to the taste of raw materials, paying attention to the prominence of the main taste and the essence of the connotation. The seasoning process varies with the texture of the raw materials, such as the "slip" of the rapid fire, the "simmering" of the slow soaking, the "roasting" after seasoning, the "steaming" cooked while adding flavor, and so on. There are many kinds of seasonings used, and you can cook a variety of simple and compound dishes such as sour, sweet, salty, spicy, and bitter. And as far as possible with some special spices, such as chaling ginger, garlic, white root, tempeh, tempeh oil, etc., high quality and taste, for the dish to add a lot of color.
Fourth, the techniques are diverse. Zu'an cuisine techniques include soup, burning, boiling, boiling, waxing, pi, preserved, scented and other techniques, the most exquisite skill is simmering, color changes are divided into "red simmering", "white simmering", in the seasoning is divided into "clear soup simmering", "thick simmering", "milk soup simmering", etc., pay attention to small fire slow simmering, original taste. "Zu'an shark fin" is crystalline and mellow, and the "Dongting Golden Turtle" juice is pure and nourishing, all of which are the best in "Zu'an cuisine".
There are many masterpieces of Zu'an cuisine, to name a few:
Zu'an shark fin: also known as "red simmered shark fin", the traditional red soup simmered shark fin method is changed to simmer with chicken, pork belly, shark fin, so that the protein, fat, inorganic salt and other nutrients in the ingredients in the simmering process, slowly melt into the original tasteless shark fin and become one, thus changing the traditional cooking soup delicious and tasteless phenomenon, with soft and silky, pure and delicious unique flavor, and has a moisturizing and nourishing health effect.
Zilong robe: Zilong robe is based on eel, the color is gorgeous, white, green, brown, purple four colors reflect each other. Salty and fresh, smooth and tender and palatable. The eel is tender, spicy and smooth. Because its eel in the production process needs to go through the process of breaking the fish, deboning, removing the head, peeling and other processes, especially the eel peeling, resembling the ancient warriors taking off their robes, so this dish is named "Zilong stripping the robe".
Spicy chicken, the ingredients as far as possible to use local specialties, chicken must be a local chicken, freshly slaughtered and made. Pepper special Changsha East Goat Horn Meat Pepper, select its meat thick and tender, bright color, remove the head, tail, seeds, tendons, only take the middle section, cut into even nail pieces, serve only with fine porcelain dark blue bowl. Therefore, this dish is only made in the early summer when the pepper tastes best, and not in other seasons.
Family Portrait: The traditional first course of the family banquet, the main ingredients are pork belly, pork, eggs, the taste is fresh, to show the joy of the family, happiness and happiness. The general ingredients are: fried meatballs, egg meat rolls, water fried meat skin, net winter shoots, water hair bean shoots, water hair fungus, vegetarian meat slices, cooked belly slices, alkali hair cuttlefish slices, chicken gizzards, chicken liver, etc. The accessories are: salt, monosodium glutamate, pepper, green onion, soy sauce, mustard powder, fresh broth, etc., pay attention to the cooking of the fire in place.
Sai Bear Paw: The "bear paw" is actually a cow paw, simmered in homemade zuan soup, and it takes six hours for a "bear paw" to come out. The mysterious Zu'an soup, unlike ordinary broth, is based on old hens and pig bones, added jinhua ham and then boiled, the taste is naturally very unique.
Wild Water Fish: Wild water fish must be used. When slaughtering, the shell is removed, the meat is cut into pieces, after water, add ginger, garlic, tempeh and zu'an soup to simmer for about an hour, and then cover the whole fish shell, the soup is fresh and fragrant.
Mini snake: Use more than one and a half pounds of snakes, cut the skin together into 5 cm long pieces after processing, simmer it for an hour with Zuan soup after oiling, and the fresh and spicy meat is tender.
Iron Stick Huaishan: Wild Huaishan, also known as "Iron Stick Huaishan", cut into strips, slowly simmer with their own soup after passing the water, which is both a small dish and a soup dish, killing two birds with one stone.
Tan Yanmin loved food all his life, but he did not leave a single word about eating and drinking. Many years later, his eldest son Tan Boyu was invited to write "My Family Cao Kitchen", which can be regarded as leaving a written record of Zu'an cuisine. Cao Xingchen also did not leave any writing, but he took several apprentices, the most famous apprentice Peng Changgui, and passed on the skills of Zu'an cuisine.
Peng Changgui, a native of Shaping Township, Changsha County, entered the kitchen world at the age of 13 and later joined the "Tan Kitchen" team and became The Assistant of Cao Siye. After the death of Fourth Master Cao, Peng Changgui was recognized as a disciple of Fourth Master Cao. Peng Changgui had a close friend Kong Haohui who was close to his family, and the two worked together for a long time in Nanjing, and Peng Changgui taught Kong Haohui the skills of zu'an cuisine. In 1949, peng Changgui went to Taiwan, and Kong Haohui gave away all 8 silver dollars on his body to be coiled. Since then, Peng Changgui has experienced twists and turns in Taiwan, and finally became a climate, known as the "grandfather" of Taiwanese Hunan cuisine. He opened a restaurant in the United States, known as "Peng Yuan", and launched a series of innovative Hunan dishes, among which the "Zuo Zong Tang Chicken" was famous throughout the United States and has not faded to this day.
For more than eighty years since the death of Cao Xingchen Cao Siye, Peng Changgui and Kong Haohui have been teaching their cooking skills in various ways; some zu'an dishes have changed their names and surnames, and exist in different names in the city and classics. In the "Collection of Xiang Cuisine" compiled by Hunan cuisine master Shi Yinxiang in 1983, a few dishes are still titled "Zu'an", and some dishes are hidden from their titles.
Fortunately, Mr. Kong Haohui left behind a valuable zu'an menu before his death. The menu is recorded as follows:
Zu'an shark fin, Zu'an abalone, Zu'an fish lips, rose fire square, Gingong apricot belly, dried scallop braised silk, double crab water chestnut cake, rock sugar silver fungus, rock sugar bird's nest, zuan tofu, double boy chicken soup, rock sugar fish crisp, fresh meat lotus balls, rose water chestnut cake, crab steamed chrysanthemum steamed steamed bun, crab yellow sea cucumber, crab yellow pork belly, crab yellow tofu, steamed lion's head, shrimp egg roasted sea cucumber, crab yellow shark fin, chicken juice jade wings, rock sugar husky toad, taro roast lamb, braised lamb paw, shaved flower fish belly, steamed water fish, clear soup bird's nest pigeon egg, medicine steamed whole chicken, steamed crucian carp, red crucian bear paw , Red simmered rock sugar elbow, black tea stewed fish, cordyceps steamed duck pieces, braised fish pieces, clear soup fish balls, steamed mandarin fish, garlic braised pork, dried steamed fruit rice, rock sugar lotus seeds, dry roasted prawns, Zuan slippery shrimp.
This menu is not complete, such as spicy chicken, boiled fish head is not written in. From this menu, steamed lion's head, shark fin soup with chicken sauce and crab yellow sea cucumber have obvious Huaiyang cuisine marks. The boiled fish head is one of the famous "three heads" in Yangzhou (the other two are grilled whole pig head and crab powder lion head). There is no doubt that Zu'an cuisine is deeply influenced by Huaiyang cuisine. There are also some dishes, such as rose water chestnut cake, rock sugar elbow, shark fin, etc., which have been circulated in the market, although not the original creation of Cao Siye, but famous for "Zu'an cuisine" and have become recognized as exquisite delicacies.
Fourth Master Cao once said, "What is the use of recipes?" Doing Lai is all based on eye techniques, relying solely on experience, not reading books can learn hands. It can be seen that the hunan cuisine technique must be inherited, but also innovative, and cannot be stuck in a corner. In recent years, Chaling County has launched a series of zu'an dishes, bringing classic Hunan cuisine to the folk, and some of Cao Siye's unique secrets have been further carried forward, which is a very fortunate thing.
Family
Two recipes are included:
Ingredients: shark fin 2000g, hen 1500g, pork (front elbow) 1000g
Accessories
Cooking wine 150g, monosodium glutamate 2.5g, pepper 1g, green onion 50g, ginger 50g, clear chicken soup 1500g, chicken fat 25g, salt 10g
steps
1: Scrape the fat hen and pork knuckle meat into pieces, boil them together in a pot of boiling water, and wash the blood foam with clean water. Spring onion and ginger beat broken. Dried scallops are spelled out of the old tendons, washed and added with green onions, ginger, cooking wine and water, and evaporated on the basket and set aside;
2, the shark fin sand and rotten part of the removal, wash with water, and then wrapped with clean white thin cloth (so as not to scatter the wings), into the casserole with bamboo grate, with cold water to cool the shark fin, pour off the cold water, so that the sea fishy smell spit out, and then, change the water to boil, when the shark fin has no peculiar smell, change to chicken soup;
3: Add cooking wine, green onion and ginger, bring to a boil over high heat, and simmer over low heat for about half an hour;
4, take out the shark fin from the casserole, the soup is poured out, put the onion, ginger and pork knuckle meat into the casserole, and then add shark fin, chicken nuggets, dried scallop soup, cooking wine and the right amount of water, simmer for about 4 hours on low heat, stew until the shark fin is fragrant, soft and rotten, and finally remove the chicken, elbow and green onion, ginger;
5: When eating, put the shark fin on the heat, add MONOS glutamate and pepper, adjust the taste, and harvest a mellow and fragrant juice. Remove the shark fin, untie the white cloth, put it into a large deep dish, then pour the juice over the shark fin and drizzle with chicken fat.
Zilong robes:
Ingredients: live eel 750 g
Accessories: water hair magnolia slices, water hair shiitake mushrooms, fresh green peppers, coriander, fresh perilla leaves, egg white 1, cooked lard, cooking wine, salt, monosodium glutamate, pepper, yellow vinegar, dry starch, wet starch, broth, sesame oil (appropriate amount)
steps:
1. Put the eel on the cutting board and cut the skin with a knife, then hold the meat with the knife, quickly tear it, and peel off the skin;
2. Put the eel meat in boiling water and remove the spines;
3. Cut another 5 cm long, 0. 3 cm thick silk;
4. Wash the green peppers, cut into 4 cm long filaments with magnolia slices and water-haired shiitake mushrooms, and chop the fresh perilla leaves;
5. Put the egg white into the bowl, stir the foam, add the dry starch, fine salt and mix well, and then put the eel wire to grasp the sizing;
6. Place the wok on medium heat, add lard and cook until 50% hot;
7. Remove the eel, use chopsticks to scatter, about 30 seconds, pour into a colander and drain the oil;
8. Leave 50 grams of oil in the wok, cook until 80% hot, sauté magnolia slices, green peppers, shredded mushrooms and fine salt for a while;
9. Then add eel shreds, cooking wine and stir-fry;
10. Then mix yellow vinegar, perilla leaves, wet starch, monosodium glutamate and broth into juice;
11. Pour into the wok, turn it upside down twice, put it on the plate, sprinkle with pepper, drizzle with sesame oil, and mix the parsley into the side of the plate.
Family:
Ingredients: fried meatballs, egg rolls, water fried meat skin, pure winter shoots, water hair bean shoots, water hair fungus, vegetarian meat slices, cooked belly slices, alkali hair cuttlefish slices, chicken gizzards, chicken liver, etc.
Accessories: fine salt, monosodium glutamate, pepper, green onion, soy sauce, mustard powder, fresh broth, etc., pay attention to the cooking of the fire in place.
After the above main and auxiliary ingredients are thoroughly prepared, the winter shoots are first put into a pot of boiling water and boiled for about five minutes, fished out, unpicked and cut into willow leaves, and then the bean shoots are cut into one inch long, and then the fungus is washed and torn apart, the skin and meat are cut into domino pieces, the chicken gizzards and chicken liver are cut into thin slices, the cuttlefish is cut into one-inch square slices, the meatballs and egg rolls are buckled into the steaming bowl and steamed, and when serving, they are taken out and put into the large soup pot.
The author, Zhang Xiaoxiong, a native of Xiangyin, Hunan, grew up in the state-owned Miluojiang Farm (now Quyuan District, Yueyang City), graduated from Xiangtan University with a 77-level Chinese major, and was former deputy general manager, senior editor, writer and professor of Hunan Daily Newspaper (Group). His masterpiece is the best-selling novel "The Wind Rises".