Hubu Lane, the endorsement of Chinese-style snacks (Hubu Lane Food Talk No. 3)
Wen | Zeng Qingwei
Folklore Painting: Wuhan Snacks Information photo
In the vicissitudes of the sea and mulberry fields, things are not people. Hubu Lane is also called Hubu Lane, but this Hubu Lane is no longer the other Hubu Lane. Now Xinhubu Alley is called "the first lane of Chinese snacks". The name has been called in Xinhubu Lane for more than ten years.
In 2002, the Wuchang District Government decided to implement the five major people-friendly projects of "early breakfast, health, employment, anti-theft and mutual assistance", and selected an old alley (Laohubu Lane) with 12 snack operators as a pilot to create the "Hanwei Early Street" brand, which is also the beginning of today's Hanwei characteristic style block - Xinhubu Lane. After years of construction and transformation, Hubu Lane has developed from an alley with only 12 snack operators to about 340 various business gates composed of hubu lane old lanes, freedom road, the west section of minzhu road and the southern section of the capital dike, of which more than 160 households are engaged in snack business, more than 170 varieties of business, and a style block integrating catering, shopping and tourism.
This is also a broad definition of Hubu Lane.
Everything in the world has cause and effect. In the final analysis, Hubu Lane can have such a grand atmosphere, which should really benefit from the location advantage of Wuhan in the thoroughfare of nine provinces, the open mind of Wuhan's local culture, and the strong material foundation of Wuhan and even Hubei Province. If there is no rich existence of the diversity of small food varieties in Hubei, Wuhan will not have many small food varieties that dazzle outsiders, nor will it achieve the dazzling glory of Hubu Lane today's "First Lane of Chinese Snacks".
Since today's Hubu Lane has made an endorsement for Chinese-style snacks, it is really necessary for us to understand the past and present lives of Wuhan and even Hubei snacks.
Snacks, also known as snacks, ancient dim sum also belonged to the list of snacks. In the long course of history, the people of Hubei have created a wide variety of local snacks with different flavors, laying a solid foundation for the richness of breakfast varieties and the convenience of dining for the people of Chudi. All kinds of snacks are not only the protagonists of Hubei people's "premature", but also serve as staple foods at various banquets and suppers.
Wuhan's representative snack: hot dry noodles Data picture
Hubei Province is located in the middle reaches of the Yangtze River, intertwined river network, lakes, fertile land, rich products, since ancient times is China's famous fish and rice town. The people of Hubei have used their rich resources and used their own hands and wisdom to create a wide variety of snacks with different tastes.
Hubei snacks have a long history, originating from the Spring and Autumn Warring States Period Yingdu (present-day Jingzhou Ji Nancheng Tourism Development Zone). Yingdu was not only the capital of the Chu state at its peak, but also the birthplace of Chu culture. Qu Yuan, a great poet of Our country born in Zigui County, Hubei Province, in the "Chu Ci Da Zhao", there is a text of "millet honey bait, there are some dumplings", which records the small food varieties of the feast at the court of the Chu state. This is the earliest record of Hubei snacks in writing.
According to the "Qi Min Zhi Shu", "粔籹" is the paste ring, the method of which is: "With rice crumbs, water honey, strong as soup cake noodles, hand-picked dough, can be eight inches long, bend the two ends, and fry it in cream." "粔籹" is now the prototype of Hubei snacks "Ma Tuan", "Huan Xi Tuo" and Cantonese snacks "Daliang Decoction Paste". "Honey bait" is also the prototype of today's snacks such as "sweet twist flowers" and "sweet steamed buns". The ingredients for Chuguo snacks are rice, millet, new wheat and yellow sorghum.
According to the Records of Customs and Lands (a document edited by Emperor Yuanming on the orders of emperor Yuanming, it is a book that records the culture and geography of ancient Japan, and is an ancient rich source of geography, history, agriculture, mythology, and folklore. It began to be compiled in 713 AD and took more than 20 years to complete) reads: "On New Year's Day, the Chu people went to wuxin pan." "Xin" and "new" sound, taking the meaning of welcoming the new, "five spices", green onions, garlic, leeks, ginger, mustard also, its taste is spicy. New Year's Day is the first day of the first lunar month. This is also recorded in the Jingchu Chronicle. By the time of the Tang and Song dynasties, the "Wuxin Pan" was gradually replaced by the "Spring Plate". The "Four Hours Treasure Mirror" says: "On the spring day, the Tang people make spring cake lettuce, and the number spring plate." After the Qing Dynasty, the production of "spring plate" went further, and its filling consisted of celery, leek and bamboo shoots, indicating the meaning of industriousness, longevity and vigor. With the passage of time, the spring cake jumped out of the framework of the "spring plate" and evolved into a snack prepared at four o'clock. This is also the origin of today's Hubei snack "spring cake" and "spring roll".
Wu Jun of the Liang Dynasty said in the "Records of Continual Qi Harmony": "Qu Yuan died on the fifth day of May, and the Chu people mourned, and every day, they threw water with bamboo tubes of rice to sacrifice it, stuffed it with dong leaves, and wrapped it in colored silk, not stolen by the dragon, that is, the source of the rice dumplings." It can be seen that Hubei is the birthplace of zongzi.
Wuhan representative snack three fresh bean skin information picture
Hubei is the place where literati have traveled, worked and lived for generations, "blast furnace cake", "nine yellow cake", "spring cake", "Dongpo cake", these classic snacks are directly related to the life of cultural giants such as Li Bai and Su Dongpo in Hubei. Snacks such as Dongpo cake are the creation of Su Dongpo. It can be seen that rich nutrients were absorbed from the mother of Chu culture, and Hubei snacks developed to the Tang and Song dynasties. It has a fairly high level of craftsmanship, forming a unique flavor characteristic, and spreading a strong local cultural charm.
In the Ming and Qing dynasties, the development of Hubei snacks tended to be mature, with a wide variety of snacks, and small food shops and snack stalls with snacks as the main products could be seen everywhere in various cities in Hubei. As the center of Hubei's food culture, Wuhan has become a platform for gathering the flavors of snacks from all over Hubei. In the Qing Dynasty Light Years, Ye Tiaoyuan's "Hankou Bamboo Branch Words" recorded:
The scenery of Hangao is the most prosperous, with millions of homes in the city.
It is not that the writer is a big writer, and he can write about all his careers.
Datong Lane steamed buns, dog meat lane bean shreds, Zushi Hall Tangyuan, are all popular people.
"Hankou Bamboo Branch Words" and clouds:
Sesame steamed buns are called desolate, and alleys are ringing gongs to buy small sugar.
Dumplings and pork blood, late at night there are streets full of trees.
From Ye Tiaoyuan's "Hankou Bamboo Branch Words", it can be shown that at least during the Daoguang years of the Qing Dynasty, Hubei's small food varieties have indeed been very rich.
Successive generations of literati have left many poems of Hubei snacks for future generations, which not only tell us what kinds of snacks were available at that time, but also paint us a vivid picture of the food customs of that time. It is not difficult to see from the above documents that snacks in Hubei have a long history, a wide variety of varieties, a wide range of materials, a large demand, but also a collection of famous points from all over the country, forming a unique local taste style, which has won the wide love of Hubei people.
Hubei snacks are widely used in a wide range of materials and have different production methods, which is inseparable from its use of rich land and water resources and the geographical conditions of the "Province of a Thousand Lakes". Hubei is surrounded by hills, and in the middle of the country, there is a network of rivers and a vast and fertile Jianghan Plain. The province is rich in rice, wheat, beans, lotus, vegetables, fruits, potatoes, mushrooms, fish, meat, poultry, eggs, game game, osmanthus flowers, fungus, oilseeds, etc., especially freshwater fish, shrimp, crabs, turtles and aquatic resources are extremely rich, all of which provide a favorable material guarantee for the production and development of Hubei snacks.
Located in Jingshan City, Hubei Province, the Qujialing Cultural Site is the earliest and most representative Neolithic large-scale settlement site found in the middle reaches of the Yangtze River in China, dating back to 5300-4500 years ago. The Qujialing site is also the first discovery site of prehistoric rice cultivation in the middle reaches of the Yangtze River, and is one of the birthplaces of Chinese farming culture. Throughout the ages, rice has always been one of the main varieties of crops in Hubei. Hubei is located in the nine provinces of the thoroughfare, breakfast should be powder and noodles, there are statistics, about 80% of Hubei people daily breakfast varieties are flour and flour. And because Hubei has more water, abundant water and more fish, among the snack varieties in Hubei, it is normal to eat fresh fish. For example, "paste soup powder" is to add a spoonful of paste-like fish soup made of crucian carp to the fine round rice noodles, which seems to be an intuitive interpretation of hubei's long-famous "land of fish and rice".
Corresponding to Hubei's abundant grain production and rich snack products, Hubei snack production techniques are also diverse, mainly including frying, steaming, branding, boiling, roasting, frying, frying, simmering, boiling, stewing, boiling, boiling, boiling, kang, pulling, punching, reaming, brewing and other technical methods, after rolling, hugging, wrapping, rolling, cutting, folding, pinching, rubbing, plate, cutting, embedding, kneading, squeezing, peeling, rubbing and other operating techniques
The various flavor snacks produced are popular with the people of Hubei for generations.
Wuhan's representative snack: noodle nest data picture
Hubei snacks are exquisite in materials and finely made. This has a lot to do with the fact that the Chu people have a smooth life and have leisure and leisure to serve the variety of food. For example, the iconic product of Wuhan snacks, "Three Fresh Bean Skins", strictly controls the three passes (material selection, refining, and heat) in operation, so that the skin is thin, the pulp is clear, the fire is positive, and it has the characteristics of oil uniformity, material full, soft inside, and crispy outside. "Soup bun" special selection of thin skin and tender lake pig, with legs sandwiched meat instead of pork belly; fermentation method is not fermented face to face flour, but with rice dumpling fermentation; in the bun filling, pay attention to "the agent is accurate, the skin is round, the filling is in the middle, the flower is jun". "Dried stir-fried beef and bean shreds", using the plum (tenderloin) meat of the yellow cattle, the bean shreds are made of "yellow rice sticky" from Qingshan, using mung beans from Wuchang County (now Jiangxia District), and the fried beans must be fried with sesame oil, strictly to fry one plate at a time. "Paste rice noodles" are made by grinding rice paste, boiling live crucian carp and eel into a soup, adding water and adding starch to make a soup paste. "Assorted tofu brain" special Jianli County (now Jianli City) Zhuhe white glutinous rice, large grains of soybeans, small handfuls of crispy steamed steamed buns, marinated with old Jinchun sauce radish minced, accompanied by small ground sesame oil, pepper, chives, etc., it is particularly delicious to eat.
Hubei snacks not only have a wide variety, but also change varieties with the change of seasons. Hubei's climate has four distinct seasons, whenever the spring warm flowers bloom, willow branches spit green season, a variety of spring rolls, spring cakes, large and small tangyuan, oil fin rice dumplings, oil aroma, oil piers, fried sugar rice cakes and other traditional snack varieties have appeared. In the scorching sun and the hot summer, all kinds of cold cakes, cold powder, cold noodles, steamed wine, rice dumplings, tofu brain, eight treasure porridge, rock sugar lotus seeds, various colored hair cakes and so on are in the market. When the osmanthus flowers are fragrant and the golden breeze is refreshing in autumn, crab yellow soup buns, honey sweet lotus, osmanthus sticks, sweet potato noodle nests, nine yellow cakes, lotus moon cakes and other sources are listed. In the fierce winter of Lamei blooming and 39, the steaming Bagua soup, the chicken soup, the silver ear lotus seed soup, the lamb soup noodles, various rice cakes, small tangyuan, walnut paste, etc., give people cold and warmth, nourish and nourish the body.
Hubei snacks have taken an eclectic path, that is, the absorption of snack essences from all over the country and the extraction of flavor characteristics from all over the province. The so-called absorption refers to the flavor characteristics of snack varieties in other parts of the country, east, west, south and north, after study, transformed into a snack variety loved by the people of Hubei and formed a historical inheritance, which will continue from generation to generation. The so-called extraction refers to the integration of the snack essences of the five flavor areas of Hanchun, Jingnan, Xiangyun, Southeast Hubei and Enshi Ethnic Groups in the province into a rich Category of Hubei Snacks.
Wuhan Snacks: Fa Mi Cang Profile Picture
In general, Hubei snacks are widely sourced and diverse in techniques, which can meet the tastes of different consumers of old women and children, and can also adapt to the taste needs of people in the north and south of the country. Most of the snacks in Hubei are mostly characterized by rice, beans, noodles and lotus products, with distinct Chudi cultural flavor and strong local charm of the hometown of fish and rice, representing the relatively high level of snack production in the middle reaches of the Yangtze River, with a long history and increasingly strong influence, and have a high degree of recognition among peers in the national catering industry.
Wuhan is the capital city of Hubei, and Wuhan snacks are the integrators of Hubei snacks. The varieties of snacks throughout the province and the varieties of snacks introduced from other provinces have been improved and transformed by several generations of Wuhan people, these snacks have become Wuhan snacks and are enjoyed by the general public, according to the "Wuhan Snacks" statistics published by Hubei Science and Technology Publishing House in 1984, Wuhan breakfast market, there are steamed food, cooking, fried food, Kang food, other classes and other categories of 190 pure Wuhan style snacks.
It is commendable that Hubu Lane did not humiliate Wuhan, a heroic city, and did not shame the heroic people of Wuhan. It inherits the long-standing Hubei food culture, with the rich variety of snacks, the flavor of snacks is mellow, with a huge ability to influence radiation, has become a beautiful Wuhan food culture business card, is a door to the world to understand Wuhan, understand Wuhan, is a food resort for tourists from all over the world to experience the pleasure of travel on the tip of the tongue, but also a vivid interpretation of the splendid life of Wuhan city residents!
This article was published in "The Old Taste of Wuchang" (by Yao Weijun and Zeng Qingwei, Wuhan Publishing House)
Zeng Qingwei, writer and food critic, director of the Food Culture Committee of Wuhan Yanhuang Culture Research Association, distinguished professor of Wuhan Research Institute of Jianghan University, distinguished researcher of Hubei Chucai Research Institute, review expert of national intangible cultural heritage representative projects, and evaluation expert of representative projects of intangible cultural heritage of Hubei Province. He has published many books such as "Taste of Jingchu", "Nostalgia on Taste Buds", "Chu Tian Talks About Eating", "Taste of Wuhan" and so on.