The love for soup is infused into the bone marrow of the Chinese people.
Whether it is to nourish the stomach before a meal, or to clear the mouth after a meal, or to swallow easily during a meal, it seems that a bowl of steaming soup is always indispensable on the table.
A pot of soup, precipitated and melted with the most authentic taste of food, or sweet, or salty, or mellow, in the Shanghainese kitchen of an acre and a third, meat ingredients clutched their hands and feet to hold their breath, eager to put the taste of the body, as much as possible into the soup.
The soups that Shanghainese drink are relatively light, and the dry and wet ones should be eaten together, and the soup should be drunk while eating. In addition to the tomato egg soup and the snow-white fish soup, most of the soup in Shanghai can be seen at the bottom of the pot.
Cabbage tofu soup, seaweed egg flower soup, squeezed vegetable egg soup, plum vegetable loofah soup, old hen soup, flat duck soup, pigeon soup, are all clean and transparent soup, you can see the raw materials, you can also eat the taste of the raw materials.
01, pickled tuk fresh
Cured and fresh meat stewed with fresh meat has a wonderful gossip pronunciation, called "Itusi". Zhu Wei, the chief writer of Sanlian, mentioned in the article that the delicacy of pickled Tuk Fresh is known as "the favorite of Shanghainese".
Indeed, there is hardly anyone who does not love pickles. One is that Jiangnan people are sensitive to spring, after a whole winter of oil, anxious to eat some refreshing things, so when they see fresh bamboo shoots, their eyes shine; the second is that pickled tuk tuk fresh meat and vegetarian and have soup, casually add a cold dish is enough for a family to eat;
Third, it is not difficult to do, good craftsmanship can have a lot of exquisiteness, and those who do not grasp the craft will not be difficult to eat.
The so-called "pickling" refers to the marinated bacon, based on Jinhua ham; "fresh" refers to fresh pork or ribs, hooves and fresh bamboo shoots. "Du" means to simmer slowly over low heat in The Shanghainese word. "Pickled tuk", of course, is a soup stewed with cured meat, fresh meat and bamboo shoots.
The secret of this dish lies in the word "Du" in the name of the dish. "Tuk" is a very weak fire, the ingredients are slowly simmered for a long time, because when cooking, the pot will make a "grunting" sound so named. Due to the long-term simmering, the original taste of the ingredients is completely released, and the finished product is shiny in color and has a mellow and smooth taste.
Needless to say, the umami taste of bamboo shoots, and the marinated fresh meat has produced a special wax flavor after time of grinding, coupled with the fresh taste of fresh meat, the three are superimposed together, without any seasoning, and it is already delicious and worthy of the title of "King of Broth".
02、 Duck soup
Pickled tuk fresh is the soup of spring, and duck soup is the soup of autumn. Eat a fresh meat mooncake, drink a bowl of duck soup, eat a taro, peel a edamame, with such a Mid-Autumn Festival four treasures, Shanghai Ning's autumn is satisfied.
Why do you want to eat these things in the Mid-Autumn Festival? Jiangnan mid-autumn, is the new duck market, edamame, taro picking season, August 15 is also the day of ancestor worship, so edamame, taro is the "recommended first" offering, but also become a must-have food for the festival.
Shanghai Ning home roasted duck soup, with a casserole to stew the duck crispy soup clear, add the local red stem small taro and then stew, the soup is clear and mellow, delicious, duck fat yellow and bright, duck meat crisp and tender, the aroma is only out of the head, the small people are looking at the kitchen, can not stop swallowing saliva, waiting for the table.
03. Soybean pig's trotter soup
The main ingredients of soybean pig's trotter soup are soybeans and pig's trotters, and the auxiliary ingredients are ginger slices, green onion, salt, monosodium glutamate or chicken essence. This flavor soup is very popular in Shanghai, and there are quite a few people who eat it. The method of burning is extremely simple, after washing the pig's trotters, cut into pieces, or segments, put them into a pot with soybeans, simmer over low heat, about two hours or so, the soup is milky white, the meat is cooked and soft, and the soybeans are crispy.
When cooked, the meat in the pot is fragrant with beans, overflowing the lid of the pot, open it, look closely, a milky white soup, inserted into the meat with chopsticks, a plug can break the skin and enter. Cold winter moon, especially the kind of cold wind squeaking into the bones faintly painful "snow day", boiling a pot of pork foot soybean soup, the family eats hot, feel not too good!
04. Fish head powder soup
Shanghai people's home to do fish head is nothing more than fish head soup, mainly divided into white soup and red soup two kinds, white soup does not put soy sauce put salt, fish head washed in the middle of the cut, with oil to fry the fish skin on both sides of the yellow, and then put into the pot, put into the ginger slice old wine to fishy, here need to pay attention to want to make the soup more flavorful then fish head cold water into the pot, if you want to make the fish head delicious, then first boil the water and then put in the fish head.
Simmer for an hour, the soup becomes snow white and viscous, this fish head can be eaten, then the wonderful place comes, is to put what kind of side dishes into the pot together to cook? It's okay to put some tofu or even cabbage on a regular basis, but shanghai's unique way to eat it is to add a powdered skin made of broad beans or mung beans.
Powder skin this thing like cool skin is not cold skin, usually lying in the vegetable market all year round is very inconspicuous, some people buy back at most put some pickles stir-fry, belongs to the low-end dishes in the public canteen, but the powder skin into this pot of cooked fish head soup slightly cooked instantly, it is extremely eye-catching.
There are fish, there is soup, there is powder skin, the powder skin is smooth in the mouth, accompanied by delicious fish head soup, it is breathtaking, drink a bowl, the cold outside the window has long been thrown to the outside of the nine clouds.
05. Borscht
After the October Revolution in Russia, a large number of Belarusian nobles fled to Shanghai to make a living, bringing vodka and Russian red cabbage soup. Because the Russian English name "Russian" is pronounced very similarly to "borscht", the old Shanghainese called it "borscht".
Each family's roasted borscht has its own taste, even if you go to a restaurant to order borscht, the ingredients are different, and the taste is different.
In fact, the main ingredient of authentic Russian red cabbage soup is red cabbage head, but red cabbage head is not suitable for cultivation in Shanghai, and the taste is not in line with the taste of Shanghainese, so the old Shanghainese cannot accept this soup in Western restaurants. After various attempts, the chefs of old Shanghai improved the red cabbage soup:
Cabbage eating mouth close to the red cabbage head, has become the best substitute, tomato sauce with white sugar after frying, sour with sweet taste is more in line with the taste of Shanghainese, and can also make the soup color turn red, so the use of cabbage and tomato sauce instead of red cabbage head has become the biggest change in Russian red cabbage soup.
The improved borscht has been recognized by Shanghainese and has become the best soup sold in Western restaurants, no matter what you order in the main course of the appetizer, most people will finally choose a borscht, and after drinking it gracefully with a spoon, the "knowledgeable" old koehlers will also dip the remaining soup in the plate with bread and eat it all clean.
06, chicken and duck blood soup
In the jianghu of Shanghai's snack industry, there are "four famous soups": oil tofu fine powder soup, curry beef soup, double stall and chicken and duck blood soup, of which if chicken and duck blood soup is listed as the top brand, I am afraid that there will not be too many people opposing it. Although it is not as popular as some internet celebrities now, its daily sales are still very stable, and most of the people who come to eat are old Shanghainese.
The name "chicken and duck blood soup" is simple and straightforward, and its content is equally straightforward - a bowl of hot blood soup is served, and it is full of ingredients. Fresh liver sausage, smooth blood clots plus thick soup, and then sprinkled with green onions, fresh spicy powder, drizzled with a few drops of vegetarian oil, such a bowl of chicken and duck blood soup on the table, take advantage of the hot time to taste, the umami will melt in the mouth "rush", making people feel "comfortable".
Today, the best chicken and duck blood soup is Xiao Shaoxing. A bowl of full-color blood soup, full of liver and intestines, after filling the bowl and then pouring a spoonful of yellow chicken fat, full of color and flavor, is the favorite of old diners. Some snack bars are known as chicken and duck blood soup, but they use pig blood, which is not authentic enough.
07: Curry beef soup
Shanghai's most popular city snack, curry beef soup. In the early days, local residents of Shanghai did not like to eat beef and mutton, thinking that it was fishy. Set up a banquet to entertain guests, rather than a pig's head, rather than a steak. After the opening of the port, foreigners landed in Shanghai, and only then did they have a specialty store for beef and mutton, and the customers were mostly foreigners. Slowly, with compradors, colleagues, believers, and more fraternal nations, Shanghai people began to eat beef.
Realistically, beef soup is best stewed, but in order to cover up the smell that Shanghainese don't like in their bones, smart chefs use heavy curry. Another advantage of this method is that the soup is light, but the color is still yellow. Its practical toes will also understand that a pot of beef soup, cooked from morning to night, cannot be rich forever.
But curry powder, one plus, seems to be rich enough, good taste naturally comes. Careful shopkeepers will carefully lift the beef after the large beef keys or beef brisket is cooked, cool it, look at the texture of the beef, cut it into thin slices that the wind can blow, and then scoop out some of the original soup from the cauldron to store in the aluminum bucket, and wait for the soup in the cauldron to fade and add it several times.
If you come to the table, it must be a large bowl of soup, a fancy, or a big grid. Pay attention to the soup to the bottom; the bottom of the bowl, only a few slices of beef with a small gaba gas, live a life.
The soup is delicious and slightly spicy, and the beef flavor is extremely strong, and even those few rare slices of beef are endlessly after chewing in the mouth. In the early days of Shanghai, snack bars in the streets and alleys generally see curry beef soup, and then a golden partner raw fried steamed buns, the taste is not too bright Oh.
08, oil tofu line powder soup
Dry points with wet spots have always been a favorite food method in Shanghai, and the oil tofu noodle soup, which is a traditional snack in Shanghai, perfectly integrates this feature and deserves to become a major reserved program among its many cuisines.
Although the oil tofu noodle soup does not look so bright in color, and even some clear soup is not so bright, if it is accompanied by some more greasy snacks, it can be described as a must:the soup is clear enough, the taste is fresh enough, the oil tofu, vermicelli and blind bag, plus a double file, let people eat it can not forget.
The history of oil tofu line powder soup is also very long, the earliest oil tofu line noodle soup originated in the early 20s of the last century, by some vendors in the roadside stalls to operate, good quality and low price, quite popular with the majority of consumers. After generations of inheritance and continuous innovation, the fame of oil tofu noodle soup is also growing, and they can be seen in many food streets in Shanghai such as City God Temple and Yunnan South Road.
In addition, if you go to watch the firing process of the oil tofu noodle soup, it is definitely a very pleasing thing, the soup in the pot is rolled over, the thread powder in the barbed wire spoon is boiled, and the smell is full of aroma.
Its production process is also very simple, put the mora into the cloth bag, tie the pocket tightly into the pot and cook for 70 minutes to make a fresh soup, grind the lean pork into minced meat with salt, water, etc. and stir it into a filling, wrap it into a blind leaf bag with a blind leaf and put it into the fresh soup to cook, and then put the remaining meat filling into the oil gluten and boil it with fresh soup.
After blanching the dry line powder, put it in a bowl, add oil tofu, blind bag, oil gluten and other ingredients, and then drizzle with shanghai slug soup and cooked lard, and a piece of oil tofu noodle soup is ready.
Later, the motif became a rare commodity, and the chef who sold oil tofu noodle soup had to switch to meat and bone hanging soup, and the umami flavor unique to dried hair and small seafood was gone. Later, due to low profits, many snack bars were no longer available.
09. Gluten blind soup
Speaking of "single file" and "double file", many new Shanghainese may not know, in fact, it is gluten and leaf soup. "Single-stall" and "double-stall" were founded in the early 1920s, first operated by Shanghai Su-style dim sum shops, and have become the special snacks of Shanghai City God Temple, WuweiZhai and other dim sum shops for decades.
In the Shanghai gossip, it means single hanging, a gluten or a blind bag, and the stack is called "single gear". Gluten plus blind bag, stacked one is called "double gear". But I don't know from what Chenguang began to "single gear" into a gluten plus a blind bag, and "double gear" is two gluten plus two blind bag.
The gluten in the authentic single file is not the general gluten, it must be the meat filling of the bread in the wuxi oil gluten is put in to make gluten, unlike the ordinary gluten stuffed meat is put in later, so the soup and umami of the meat filling are completely wrapped in gluten, and it is really fresh to bite it!
Blind leaf bun is also very exquisite, the leaf should not only have toughness but also with the fragrance of the soybean itself, layer by layer tight, because it is the meat filling inside the snack, that is, not more and can not be less, more greasy, less tasteless, to bite open the meat filling just with the same thickness of the blind leaf is the best.
The soup must be an authentic bone broth, after a long time of boiling without other spices, it must also have a little oil on it, that is, to highlight a natural flavor. Put a little more spicy powder when you eat it, and it tastes great!