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The Beauty of hairpins – the luxurious golden art of the King of Daming Domain

The Beauty of hairpins – the luxurious golden art of the King of Daming Domain

The tomb of the Ming Dynasty king of Jiangxi province was excavated with a golden hairpin

Ming Taizu Zhu Yuanzhang overthrew the rule of the Yuan Dynasty in 1368 and established the Ming Dynasty. In order to strengthen the rule of the people in various places, effectively supervise the loyalty of local officials to the imperial court, and at the same time prevent the occurrence of struggles for power and thrones, and maintain and consolidate the rule of the Zhu family dynasty, Zhu Yuanzhang implemented the system of sub-feudalism, and divided the crown princes and grandchildren to various places to become the kings of the clans, and jointly "assisted the imperial family".

The Beauty of hairpins – the luxurious golden art of the King of Daming Domain

The tomb of the Ming Dynasty king of Jiangxi province was excavated with a golden head face

According to the "History of Ming", Zhu Yuanzhang had 42 children, of which 26 were princes, except for the eldest son Zhu Biao, who was made crown prince and the twenty-sixth son of the emperor, Zhu Nan, who was born more than a month later, the remaining 24 were all crowned princes. Some of the princes granted military powers, such as Zhu Di (dl) the King of Yan and Zhu Quan the King of Ning, and ordered them to garrison the north to defend against the Mongols. The Ming Dynasty clan was divided into princes, county kings, Zhenguo generals, auxiliary generals, Fengguo generals, Zhenguo lieutenants, auxiliary lieutenants, Fengguo lieutenants, etc. Eight, and the princes were crowned princes, and the prince titles were all used ancient country names or place names, such as Qin, Jin, Jing, etc.

The Beauty of hairpins – the luxurious golden art of the King of Daming Domain

The tomb of the Ming Dynasty king of Jiangxi province was excavated with gold buckle ornaments

The eldest son of the prince was established as the prince's son at the age of 10, and was awarded the golden seal, and the eldest grandson was the grandson, and the crown and other systems were the same official, and they were the legitimate heirs of the prince's title. The remaining princes were made kings of the county at the age of 10, and were given gold and silver seals, and the titles of the kings of the counties used the names of prefectures and counties or ancient place names, generally two characters, such as Xinping, Guangchang, Le'an, etc. The eldest son of the county king was established as the son of the county king from the age of 10, the eldest grandson was the grandson, and the crown and other systems were the same as the two pin officials, and they were all the legitimate heirs to the county throne.

The Beauty of hairpins – the luxurious golden art of the King of Daming Domain

The sons of the remaining junwangs were made zhenguo generals, the grandsons of the junwang were made auxiliary generals, the great-grandsons of the junwang were made fengguo generals, the fourth grandson of the junwang was made the lieutenant of zhenguo, the fifth grandson of the junwang was made the lieutenant of the auxiliary state, and the grandson of the sixth grandson of the junwang was given the title of lieutenant of fengguo, and the hereditary title was inherited.

The Beauty of hairpins – the luxurious golden art of the King of Daming Domain

Gold ornaments were excavated from the tomb of the Ming Dynasty king of Jiangxi

When these clan sons are born, they must ask for the name of the clan government that is in charge of the affairs of the royal family, and the elderly will then ask for marriage, eat for life, and be buried by the imperial court after death. As one of the series of major measures to consolidate the rule of the Zhu family dynasty, the system of knighthood and feudalism remained unchanged in the Ming Dynasty, resulting in the generations of Ming Dynasty and the descendants of the Zhu clan spread throughout the country.

The Beauty of hairpins – the luxurious golden art of the King of Daming Domain

Among them, there were three domains in Jiangxi: that is, the Ning Fan wang lineage headed by Zhu Quan, the sixteenth son of Zhu Yuanzhang of Nanchang, who passed on the fifth king and the fifth king, and was later deposed for treason; the Huai fan line headed by Zhu Zhan, the seventh son of Emperor Mingrenzong of Poyang, passed on the eighth and ninth kings; the Yifan royal lineage headed by Zhu Youbin, the fourth son of Emperor Mingxianzong of Nancheng, passed on the seventh generation and seven kings.

The Beauty of hairpins – the luxurious golden art of the King of Daming Domain

These three provinces were all royal nobles of the Zhu Family Dynasty. In the Ming Dynasty, Jiangxi's social economy made new progress on the basis of the Song and Yuan dynasties, the cities and towns developed, the handicraft industry flourished in an all-round way, and the commodity trade was unprecedentedly active. Before they died, these royal nobles wore gold and jade, enjoyed all the glory and wealth, were arrogant and lascivious, and after death, they had to bring a large number of treasures into the grave, bury them in a thick burial, and wanted to continue to enjoy them.

The Beauty of hairpins – the luxurious golden art of the King of Daming Domain

The tomb of the Ming Dynasty king of Jiangxi province was excavated with a golden phoenix hairpin

Among the excavated tombs of the Ming Dynasty kings in the Jiangxi region, the gold and silver jewelry excavated from the tomb of Zhu Houye, the king of Ming Yizhuang, is the best. Zhu Houye was the eldest son of Zhu Youbin. Jiajing was enthroned as King Yi in the 20th year (1541) and died in the 35th year of Jiajing (1556). Zhu Houye's tomb is located in Changtang Village, southeast of Nancheng County, and is a three-person joint burial tomb of Zhu Houye and his yuan concubine Wang and Concubine Wan. Archaeologists excavated and cleaned up Zhu Houye's tomb between September and October 1958.

The Beauty of hairpins – the luxurious golden art of the King of Daming Domain

Zhu Houye's coffin contains a total of 9 gold vessels. A total of 79 pieces of gold and silverware were produced in the coffin of the princess. Gold objects include golden phoenix hairpins, golden sideburns, money, gold buckles, etc. The largest number of artifacts in the coffin of Wanfei is the most exquisite, with 122 pieces of gold. Among them, the gold crown with gemstones, all kinds of pavilion gold hairpins, bracelets, gold hat brims, golden phoenix hairpins and so on are outstanding, exquisite and beautiful.

The Beauty of hairpins – the luxurious golden art of the King of Daming Domain

The tomb of King Ming Yizhuang was excavated with a gold crown set with gemstones

This gem-set gold crown is 7.5 cm on the long axis and 6.5 cm on the short axis. It is composed of four parts: the hat ring, the cap, the cap and the tongue. The bottom of the crown is enclosed in an oval shape by a gold circle, decorated with a hollow gold wire pattern, the hat ring is covered with a round crown cover, and at the midline are two arched horizontal ribs, sandwiched with nine gems, and nine longitudinal ribs are evenly distributed, and the horizontal ribs form the support of the crown cover. There is a mound on the left and right of the front and back of the crown ring, and the two tongues are connected to the rear ring, and the mochi, the horns, and the tongue and tongue corners are all inlaid with gems. There is a small hole in the left and right bottom of the crown cover, and a gold hairpin is inserted in each hole for fixing the gold crown, and the hairpin head is umbrella-shaped, and the handle of the hairpin has the words "Silver Bureau Jiajing Twenty-six Years (1547) October Gold Five Coins". The crown is set with fifty-five gemstones of various colors, which are exquisitely reflected in gold.

The Beauty of hairpins – the luxurious golden art of the King of Daming Domain

The tomb of King Ming Yizhuang unearthed a pavilion figure of golden hairpin

The pavilion character golden hairpin is 17.9 cm high, 6.7 cm wide and weighs 58 grams. The head of the hairpin is two rows of heavy eaves pavilions, surrounded by drifting clouds, and there are five people in the attic, the hostess is in the middle of the seat, holding her head with her hands, and two handmaidens standing on each side. Five-petaled flowers and leaves are embellished around and at the bottom of the hairpin, connecting the entire pavilion into a whole, playing a role in decoration and reinforcement. The feet are flattened and diamond-shaped, with a pointed bottom. This hairpin has two pieces, and the pattern is symmetrical. This shape of the hairpin belongs to the "sideburns", the length is a pair, from bottom to top on the sides of the bun, its flowing cloud-like extension is also designed to cover the miscellaneous hair.

The Beauty of hairpins – the luxurious golden art of the King of Daming Domain

The tomb of King Ming Yizhuang unearthed a golden roof of the pavilion figure

The pavilion character has a golden roof, with a length of 20 cm and a width of 8 cm. The head of the hairpin is two pavilions, surrounded by flowers and trees, slightly taller, for the heavy eaves to rest on the top of the mountain, three people in the pavilion, one person standing in the center, next to two maids holding fans to wait. At the main entrance of the pavilion, a maid and a crane stand opposite each other. There is also a crane on the side of the pavilion, and another sika deer is looking forward. Slightly lower is the hexagonal heavy eaves roof, the pavilion has partitions on six sides, one person lies on the inner and middle sides, and there are four handmaidens outside the pavilion. The two pavilions stand side by side on the base, surrounded by railings. At the bottom of the hairpin head is a phoenix with one foot on the auspicious clouds, the phoenix's mouth is open, holding the bottom of the hairpin, and the phoenix body is connected to the hairpin foot.

The Beauty of hairpins – the luxurious golden art of the King of Daming Domain

The tomb of King Ming Yizhuang unearthed a double pavilion golden hairpin

Double Pavilion Golden Hairpin, height 7.5 cm, width 3 cm. The feet are flattened and extended, 11.2 cm long. The two pieces are of the same shape, and the head of the hairpin consists of three pavilions side by side, the highest in the middle and slightly lower on the sides. This hairpin is high in the middle and low on both sides, and the feet of the hairpin are flattened downwards, which is a flat-inserted hairpin, a "distraction" in the head surface, and inserted in the front of the bun or the back edge of the bottom when worn.

The Beauty of hairpins – the luxurious golden art of the King of Daming Domain

7.8 cm high, 3.5 cm wide and weighing 76.1 grams, this pair of golden hairpins is on a leaf-shaped substrate woven of filament, made of gold and filaments, and the upper floor is equipped with petal-style window ledges, three people living inside, the master sits in the middle, holds the wat in both hands, and a maid on the left and right holds a round fan. The lower five people, holding different objects such as water basins, hand towels, and pots, are wrapped in filigree plum blossom chrysanthemums on the overall edge of the pavilion, and the back is also outlined with six petals of flowers to form a hollow pattern, and the feet are upwards. This hairpin also has a counterpart to the shape, which is also a sideburn hairpin.

The Beauty of hairpins – the luxurious golden art of the King of Daming Domain

This flat-inserted hairpin, with its feet and head vertically backwards, is 9 cm high, 6.5 cm wide and weighs 77.5 grams. In the upper part of the heavy eaves pavilion, there are four people, two sitting in the middle, and the maids are on either side; on the lower floor, there are five people, holding different instruments, as if playing and singing. This hairpin is made of gold wire into a complex pattern, and nine characters with different shapes and behaviors are produced in a limited space, which vividly expresses the scene of song and dance.

The Beauty of hairpins – the luxurious golden art of the King of Daming Domain

The tomb of King Ming Yizhuang unearthed a silk golden phoenix

The above-mentioned pavilion characters, Jin Hao, are likely to be set in the Yizhuang Palace, showing the scene of its pavilions, songs and dances, and is a portrayal of the luxurious and leisurely life of the aristocratic class.

In addition, a pair of phoenix hairpins were also unearthed from the tomb of King Yizhuang. The exquisite degree of this pair of "Lace Golden Phoenix Hairpins" makes people see the ultimate in the Ming Dynasty's lace craftsmanship. This is one of the most complex and exquisite gold noodles found in China, and the owner of the phoenix is the Wanfei of Zhu Houye, the king of Yizhuang. This pair of gorgeous and generous-looking, 22.5 cm long hairpins are matched with the princess's bead crown to become the "phoenix crown", which is the legendary "mouth bead drop".

Interestingly, the pair of golden phoenixes are exactly the same as the golden phoenixes owned by Princess Wan's mother-in-law, Princess Peng of Zhu Youbin, the King of Yiduan: they are all produced by Ming Yongle for twenty-two years, and they all come from the same manufacturer, the Imperial Silver Bureau; and the feet of the golden phoenix hairpins are engraved with the 24 small characters of the "Silver Works Bureau Yongle Second HarvestIng"; and they are also important ornaments for the phoenix crown worn by the princess when she was canonized.

The Beauty of hairpins – the luxurious golden art of the King of Daming Domain

So, why are there so many golden phoenix hairpins of the same style? This has to mention our old Zhu family's clan kingship system: the Ming Dynasty clan king Gui was an emperor, and he practiced the "all-inclusive system" for life, and all the birth, old age, illness and death were paid for by the emperor's pocket. Therefore, the two pairs of "colliding shirts" owned by the mother-in-law and daughter-in-law were all specially produced by the Inner House Silver Bureau in the twenty-second year of Yongle for the concubines of the clan kings, so the same phoenix hairpins appeared repeatedly.

Princess Peng was made Princess Yi in the seventh year of Ming Hongzhi (1494), and Princess Peng's daughter-in-law, Princess Wan, was made a princess in the twenty-sixth year of Ming Jiajing (1547); however, the date of the production of the same golden phoenix hairpin, which was despotic by the court, was still in the twenty-second year of Ming Yongle (1424 AD). I think that when Princess Peng first wore this pair of golden phoenix hairpins, this hairpin was already "70 years old", and when Princess Peng and her daughter-in-law WanFei sealed another pair of the same pair of golden phoenix hairpins, this pair of hairpins was an antique that had been made for 123 years.

The Beauty of hairpins – the luxurious golden art of the King of Daming Domain

China's ancient gold and silver craftsmanship in the Ming Dynasty into a period of rapid development, the craftsmanship reached the point of pure fire, the shape of gold and silver jewelry is gradually diversified, many works full of life came out, flowers, birds, insects, fish, pavilions and pavilions are common themes in gold and silver jewelry, especially the pavilion pattern as the boom period of the hairpin head, the shape is very simulated, the production method is also hammered, hammered, reeled, inlaid on the basis of relief and hollowing method, like the utensils are more exquisite and light, three-dimensional and vivid.

The Beauty of hairpins – the luxurious golden art of the King of Daming Domain

The prosperity of the Ming Dynasty hair ornament process is closely related to its social atmosphere, when women often cover a small hat on the combed bun, cover the hair, this kind of small hat is called a bun; and like to insert hairpins around the bun, the hair is neatly covered, therefore, in the front and back of the bun, left and right sides and other parts of the hairpin with different styles of hairpins combined with it, its style can be roughly divided into picky heart, top hairpin, distraction, sideburns, buns, etc., these various types of hairpins plus earrings, collectively known as "head face".

The Beauty of hairpins – the luxurious golden art of the King of Daming Domain

In the middle and late Ming Dynasty, with the development of the commodity economy, the trend of consumption became more and more prosperous, people often compared with each other and even transgressed in clothing, and the pursuit of luxury and pleasure promoted the unprecedented development of gold and silver production technology, and also left a rare art treasure for future generations.

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