There is tradition in the middle of the miscellaneous
Rough in the middle of the exquisite
Retain the taste of Beijing
Passing on the culture of gastronomy
Food culture in Beijing
Same as the Great Wall, the Forbidden City, and the Summer Palace
All are indispensable to the city
Important signs and cultural symbols
And Beijing restaurant famous restaurants
It is the carrier of food culture
Today, The Cultural Tourism Jun introduces you
Famous stores in Beijing
"Tan Jia Cai" and "Fortress Garden"
Tan family cuisine
Tan family cuisine, the representative of official cuisine, was originally created by the family of the Qing Dynasty official Tan Zongtao, because Tan Zongtao was the leader of the tongzhi for thirteen years, so the Tan family dish was also called "list eye dish".
Speaking of Tan Zongli, from Guangdong Province, he loves to eat and understand, which can be said to be normal, probably the only person in Hanlin who studies dishes. It is said that he has been a lover of delicious food all his life, and even supervised the production himself, and is keen to share dishes with friends at home.
(Image source: "Above the Canal" public number.) ）
In the past, it was very difficult to eat Tan family dishes, because it was the Tan family's family banquet, and it was not external at all. It was not until the end of the Qing Dynasty that the Tan family was forced to make a living, and gradually began to host banquets to the outside world.
High-end ingredients and unique tastes soon made Tanjia cuisine famous, and there is a reputation of "the food industry is called Tan", and Tanjia cuisine has truly become a restaurant.
Tanjia cuisine, which is mainly roasted, stewed, simmered, roasted and steamed, rarely uses spices with excessive taste, often flavored with sugar and salt, and is also good at using dry goods, and the broth is a must, and all kinds of mountain and sea flavors of swallow wing abalone are excellent dishes.
With such materials, the price of each table banquet is naturally not cheap, and those who can afford to eat are celebrities in the political and business circles, but the business has never been cold, even if it is necessary to make a reservation in advance, it cannot stop the enthusiasm of the diners, which shows the delicious taste of the Tan family cuisine.
"Clear soup bird's nest" is the representative work of tan family cuisine, three hours of soaked bird's nest, after repeated washing, put in chicken soup steamed for 30 minutes, put in a small bowl, and then boil the soup made of chicken, duck, elbows, scallops, ham and so on, add it, adjust the taste, and put some ham filaments in each bowl. This dish is extremely nutritious and delicious.
EatIng Tan family dishes, there are some special rules to know, that is, each table of wine banquets should leave a seat for the host, and the Tan family host will also exchange some topics about food with diners at the banquet.
Moreover, no matter how many high-powered people have on the other side, the chef of the Tan family never borrows it, and if he wants to eat Tan family dishes, he must come to the door.
In 1943 and 1946, Tan Qingqing and Zhao Lifeng died one after another, and Tan Jiacai suffered a heavy blow for a while, and after several years of continued persistence by Peng Changhai, Tan Jiacai left the Tan house.
Nevertheless, Tanjia cuisine has never been interrupted for generations since the Qing Dynasty, which also allows the cooking skills of Tanjia cuisine to be well passed down, so that people can now see the most authentic official cuisine.
In 1958, Premier Zhou Enlai personally instructed Tan Jia Cai to enter the Beijing Hotel, so that Tan Jia Cai could return to its former prosperity.
Fortress Garden
There are two places in Beijing called Fortress Garden, one in Zhongnanhai and one in Zhushikou Street.
Fengzeyuan on Zhushikou Street is a very high-specification Lu restaurant.
(Image source: "Fortress Garden Hotel" public number.) ）
How high are the specifications of Fortress Garden?
Before the founding of the People's Republic of China, Fortress Garden was a pioneering project of the eight-building "New Feng Lou", and became the first choice for the gathering of dignitaries and celebrities at that time.
After the founding of New China, it was a first-class restaurant. Can receive foreign guests, central chiefs, lay white tablecloths, sell Coca-Cola, use foreign exchange coupons. At that time, in addition to Fortress Garden, there were also listening to oriole restaurants and imitation meals.
It was not until around 1985 that secondary restaurants such as Tongheju, Barbecue Season, Emei Restaurant, and Hongbin Lou could sell Coke.
So, Coke, served as a symbol of rank for a while.
What is the head of the new Feng Lou? Why is it so magical to create a "super item"?
Tangtou is a very important position in the catering industry of the old society. In today's terms, it is almost equivalent to the front office manager. If a company has a good head, it is equivalent to half the success.
The head of the church builds a good stickiness with diners, and he is a sociologist and psychologist.
Know what the identity and status of the guests who come; whether you come purely for dinner or for errands; if you want to spend more, spend less, and want to spend less, you have to give him both less money and face; when you come to the real eater, you must recommend specialties; the seat allocation should be appropriate to make the guests satisfied.
At that time, the head of Xinfenglou, called Luan Xuetang, was the famous head of the capital, and it was such a pivotal person who, together with the chef team of Xinfenglou, founded Fengzeyuan.
It was 1930.
Fortress Garden is an authentic Lu restaurant. The housekeeper's famous dishes are grilled sea cucumber with green onion, shark fin soup in casserole, dried shark fin, and grilled large black ginseng with green onions, one more atmosphere than the other, and the tableware is a pure silverware. At first glance, it is not a place to go on a daily basis. It is generally a place for dignitaries and celebrities and artists.
The sea cucumber dishes prepared by Chef Wang Yijun are one of the best in the sea. The sea cucumber is fresh, soft and smooth, the green onion is fragrant, and there is no juice left after eating. In the 1983 National Cooking Competition, Chef Wang Yijun of Fortress Garden won a gold medal with a sea cucumber grilled with green onions. Since then, it has had the reputation of "sea cucumber king" in the domestic catering industry.
Fengzeyuan blends the Lu cuisine style of Jinan and Jiaodong regions, innovative and self-contained, and is famous all over the world. For a while, Fortress Park also opened semicolons in Yantai, Tianjin, Shanghai, Nanjing, Kaifeng, Hong Kong and other places. The Shandong compatriots of Luan Xuetang, the founder of Fortress Garden, also open restaurants in Hong Kong, Paris and other places under the name of "Fortress", some called Fortress House, some called Fortress Garden.
In Beijing, there is an old saying - "Eat in Fengze garden, dress Rui Xiang". Fortress Garden was once a landmark of Beijing's catering industry.
Today's "Eat in Beijing"
That's it
Next issue
Wen wenjun will continue to introduce you
Famous restaurants in Beijing
See you in the next issue
Content Source:
"Old Beijing Narrative Food And Famous Food"
Image Source:
"Above the Canal" public number
"Fortress Garden Hotel" public number
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