The "delicious limit" of roast goose

【Editor's Note】

Lin Weihui, the author of "Eating Jianghu", has served as a food consultant for the food documentaries "Flavor of the World" and "Boiling Bar Hot Pot", and is the master of the food public name of "Hui Taste Delicious". The famous director Chen Xiaoqing commented on him: "In life, Brother Wei Hui plays two roles, on the one hand, he is righteous and hospitable, and there is always his high-frequency and high-frequency laughter on the table; on the other hand, he is cautious in eating and drinking, immersed in his own food evidence, and enjoying himself." ”

"Eating the Rivers and Lakes" by Lin Weihui

Guangdong People's Publishing House, June 2021

【Author】Lin Weihui

If you want to do a good job of roasting geese, you must first choose a good goose. The Chaoshan brine goose uses a large lion's head goose, while the roast goose uses a moderately sized black-maned goose.

The goose is distributed in northern Guangdong, central Guangdong and the suburbs of Guangzhou, and adult male geese can reach 3.5 kg in 90 days after artificial fattening. This is the ideal state for roasted goose: just adulthood, sufficient flavor substances, full of goose flavor; muscle fibers are moderate in thickness, as long as the heat is properly controlled, you can make the meat tender and juicy; after bad fattening, fat is rich. Don't be afraid of fat oil, the fat of the black mane goose is about 70% unsaturated fatty acids, not as terrible as imagined. No bruises and breakage, is the standard of a light goose. If the goose has bruises, the goose will turn black after roasting; if there is damage, the skin will open and the juice will flow across the roast.

In terms of production technology, each store has its own unique secret book, but whether kung fu arrives home is the key to evaluating the taste of roasted goose. In the process of roasting the goose, a key process is to pour the marinade into the belly of the goose, using osmotic pressure to let the taste of the marinade into the goose meat. The recipe of the marinade, how much marinade is poured in, and how long the goose is left lying flat determines the taste of the roasted goose.

Next, the goose is sewn up with a special suture needle for roast goose in order to retain the marinade; the goose neck is inflated to fill the air between the subcutaneous fat and the connective tissue of the goose to ensure that the roast goose is crispy; the goose is blanched in boiling water, which is to set the roast goose; the goose is drizzled with crispy water containing maltose, which is to make the sugar brown react when it meets heat, so that the skin is crisp, and the roast goose is also covered with a beautiful yellow-brown coat; and then dried for a few hours to make the goose skin water volatilize. Crispness is the result of food dehydration, air drying is conducive to goose skin dehydration, and goose meat is very flavorful because it is soaked in brine juice all the time.

If you use charcoal fire, stewing furnace to make roasted goose, the goose will be steamed evenly by water vapor, with the evaporation of water vapor, the temperature in the furnace exceeds 120 ° C, the goose meat will undergo a Maillard reaction, the protein of the large molecule is decomposed into a polypeptide, and then further decomposed into small molecules of amino acids, then the goose meat aroma is overflowing.

Change positions and turn up the temperature to allow the goose to heat it further and the goose skin will become further crispy. Eating roast goose has a "four-hour limit", which means that the faster the roast goose comes out of the oven, the better, after four hours, the skin is not crisp.

Flipping through the historical materials, the appearance of roasted goose will not be until after the late Qing Dynasty, before which it is roasted duck, and roast goose is an upgraded version of the Cantonese people on the basis of roasting duck! The roasted duck, on the other hand, can be traced back to Nanjing in the early Ming Dynasty. Nanjing is rich in ducks, ming taizu Zhu Yuanzhang built the capital in Yingtian, that is, after the current Nanjing, the imperial kitchen took the thick and succulent lake duck of Nanjing to make dishes; in order to increase the flavor of the duck dish, it was baked with charcoal fire to make the duck crispy. Later, Zhu Di moved the capital to Beijing, and the roast duck technology was also brought to Beijing from Nanjing, and the Nanjing Lake duck was replaced by Miyun white duck, and Beijing roast duck appeared.

In this way, the ancestor of the roast goose is "Nanjing roast duck", authentic Huaiyang cuisine, but when you meet Cantonese who are good at learning, a slight change has become a Cantonese dish. The chefs took the Nanjing roast duck and changed it slightly, and made a Cantonese roast goose, which is the case!

(This article was published in the September 5, 2021 "Reading" edition of Nanfang Daily.) Editor-in-Charge: Chen Xiaogeng)

【Author】

【Source】 Southern Press Media Group South + client

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