Korqin costume
Horqin costume is the oldest traditional costume of the Horqin tribe and the Horqin region. Horqin costumes and clothing styles are colorful, graceful and luxurious, with great regional and national characteristics, and have high historical and cultural value.
In 2007, Horqin costumes were included in the list of intangible cultural heritage of Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region.
The origin of Korqin's clothing
Genghis Khan's "Horqin Guard" gradually evolved from the name of the military institution to the general name of the various ministries to which Hathal's descendants belonged, forming the famous Horqin Department. Nen Korqin belongs to the Horqin branch and is the seat of Tongliao City. In the three years of Ming Jiajing, the name of the Tender Horqin Department was fixed, and he had his own unique costume, which is now the Horqin costume.
After hundreds of years of development, Horqin costumes have inherited the original characteristics of Mongolian costumes, absorbed the embroidery technology of Manchu, Tibetan and Han ethnic groups and the advantages of various ethnic costume cultures, and become the main component of the Chinese national costume family.
Horqin costumes are widely circulated in the region, mainly including the flag counties of Tongliao City, Inner Mongolia, the Right Middle Banner of Xing'an Mengke, the Zhalaite Banner, and the former Guoerluo Mongol Autonomous County of Jilin Province. Korqin costumes are well preserved and passed down in the Zarut banner.
Characteristics of Korqin costumes
Fine embroidery, pasting embroidery, Bo embroidery, panxiu, etc. are the most important characteristics and techniques of Horqin clothing, and they are also more significant features that are different from other Mongolian tribal costumes.
Horqin women's headdresses and embroidered clothes have the most local and national characteristics. The embroidery pattern of Horqin clothing is rough and delicate, the lines are bright and vivid, the color contrast is strong and flexible, and the patterns and patterns have a variety of symbolic meanings. The headdress is unique and complete, the women's headdress generally wears 2 bright headbands, wearing 5 silver hairpins, the earrings are mainly red coral, turquoise or emerald, and the men wear knives, cigarette bags, hadagas, flint stones, etc.
Exquisite embroidery is an important part of Korqin costume and is also a distinctive feature that distinguishes it from other Mongolian costumes.
Horqin costumes include two major contents, such as clothing and clothing. Clothing includes leather hats, satin turbans, sheepskin robes, hanging leather robes, open shoulders, leather trousers, embroidered boots, coiled boots, felt socks, belts, various embroidered pillows, etc.; clothing items include colorful streamer cotton ear tips, head accessories, earrings, bracelets, cigarette bags, etc.
earmuffs
Cigarette packs
Red deer and apricot blossoms are representative of Horqin costumes, red deer represent the free nomadic lifestyle of the Horqin Mongols, and apricot blossoms represent the pure and kind character of the Horqin Mongolian people.
There are several lines of strips and a few rows of gold fringes on the placket and the edges of the clothing, which represent the unity of all nationalities.
Costume skills
The cultural value of Horqin costumes is mainly manifested in embroidery, Bo embroidery and plate embroidery. In terms of raw material selection, silk, cotton, and leather are mostly made by hand.
The craftsmanship of Korqin costumes is passed down from generation to generation by women. The women of the traditional Horqin region are all masters of Horqin costumes who can cut and depict dragons and embroidered phoenixes.
In terms of dress, there is a clear difference in the clothing of unmarried girls and married women in Korqin.
Girls' costumes
Girls wear large tunics and belts, and are accustomed to hanging purses embroidered with flower and bird motifs on large plackets, and silver Buddha statues or agate and coral necklaces around their necks.
Horqin girls from the age of six or seven, to pierce the ears, 13 years old to keep full hair, before marriage to comb a single braid, braided with a small coral rope or red silk rope finely wrapped 3 fingers wide, and then the hair is braided in three strands, the bottom is left a long, with coral rope or red silk rope finely wrapped 2 fingers wide. Girls also have the habit of wrapping pink or green headscarves on their heads. Girl rings cannot be worn on the thumb and ring finger.
Women's clothing
Horqin women wear slit cotton robes, jacket robes, slits and large shoulders, trousers, leather robes with black silk trim on the edges, satin robes, plackets, shoulders, cuffs, hem and other positions are inlaid with various colors of treasury brocade.
Horqin women wear slit cotton robes, jacket robes, slits and large plackets, etc., and do not wear belts around their waists, so they call married women "Boothgui". Women usually wear two buns on the top of their heads and wrap silk headscarves. During the New Year's Festival or party, they will dress up in costumes, wear five hairpins or 2 bright headbands, wear 5 silver hairpins, and the earrings are mainly red coral, turquoise or emerald. The headdress is unique and fully decorated, and the embroidered robes, long shoulders, embroidered boots and so on are fully worn.
The heritage of Korqin costumes
In recent years, Zarut Banner attaches great importance to the inheritance and development of Horqin costumes, and has established a Horqin costume making cooperative in the poor town of Sumu. The autonomous region-level inheritors Srijima, Sayima, Tian Siqin and other apprentices passed on the art, taught the sewing method of Horqin costumes, and more than 500 farmers and herdsmen learned the art, and more and more people were engaged in the inheritance of Horqin costume skills.
Colored lines
Sewing kit
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Source: Tongliao Municipal Bureau of Culture, Tourism, Radio, Film and Television, Inner Mongolia Department of Culture and Tourism