Original title: [Longshang this bowl of noodles] Taste dunhuang: donkey meat yellow noodles
Donkey meat yellow noodles
Donkey plate intestines
Li Maojin
Dunhuang is a famous city on the Silk Road. The exchange and mutual learning of Chinese and Western civilizations has created a unique charm of Dunhuang culture, and also bred a unique flavor of Dunhuang cuisine, Dunhuang donkey meat yellow noodles is one of the most popular local famous snacks.
As the saying goes, dragon meat in heaven, donkey meat on earth. Donkey meat is regarded by many gourmets as a taste of the world. Dunhuang's donkey meat yellow noodles, the donkey meat and yellow noodles into one, yellow bright and seductive ramen, poured with marinade or fried sauce, accompanied by donkey meat series of dishes, different, unique flavor, simply comfortable!
Tourists once said humorously that if they visited Dunhuang and visited the scenic spots, if they did not taste the donkey meat yellow noodles, it was like traveling to Beijing without eating Peking duck, which always made people feel that they were not in the united states. In the tourist season, you can often see such a scene: the donkey meat yellow noodle restaurant every day at noon and lunch, the guests are full, full of seats, and there is a long queue outside the door. A group of guests have not yet left the table, and a group of guests are already waiting, just to taste this special food on the Silk Road.
Speaking of donkey meat yellow noodles, it is naturally inseparable from yellow noodles. Yellow noodles, also known as lost noodles, are called yellow noodles because the finished product is smooth and yellow when cooked. It is called a loss of face, one is because the ramen is constantly thrown to the noodle case, that is, the meaning of "throwing"; the other is that the yellow noodles are pulled into a pot before the master's wrist is thrown and there is a "throw away" gesture. Yellow noodles in Dunhuang can be described as a long history. There are ramen murals in the Song Dynasty caves of Mogao Cave 256, which shows that as early as 1,000 years ago, there was a ramen handicraft in Dunhuang.
As the saying goes, one side feeds the other. After a long period of fireworks, the yellow noodles walked down the Dunhuang murals and into real life, the longer and longer, the more refined, the yellow bright smooth, flexible tendons, become authentic folk food.
The production method of yellow noodles is to first add high-quality flour with green ash water (boiling liquid) and noodles, after pounding with a fist, fold and knead with both hands, knead until the dough is kneaded, and then left and right (flinging strips), pulled to the right length, cut off the noodles and shake them into the boiling water pot, wait for the noodles to float up and roll a few times to fish out, put into the cool water basin to cool, fish out the control of clean water can be served.
The noodles served are bright yellow, naturally uniform and soft. Yellow noodles are eaten in two ways: dry noodles are poured with brine (made of pork belly slices or cooked meat slices, fungus, tofu slices, vermicelli, radish, cabbage, etc.); soup eats the yellow noodles into the prepared cheek soup (there are meat cheeks and vegetarian cheeks), eat noodles and drink soup, it is not pleasant. Whether eaten dry or soup, accompanied by a plate of traditional marinated meat (originally large meat, later turned into donkey meat), it is a tempting meal.
Yellow noodles and marinated vegetables (fried sauce) poured together, good taste, high nutrition, hunger relief, easy digestion, has always been a suitable noodle for all ages in Dunhuang. At that time, the old man had a birthday, the child had a birthday, and the wedding celebrations, they had to pull yellow noodles to entertain guests, accompanied by fragrant cheeks, making people salivate, eat a bowl and want a bowl. During the New Year's Festival, if you can eat a bowl of yellow noodles, it is really a feast.
After the reform and opening up, with the continuous heating up of Dunhuang tourism fever, folk snacks have also embarked on the big stage of food. On the basis of traditional marinated meat, the most representative ones, Shunzhang Yellow Noodles and Daji Yellow Noodles, have developed their own characteristics of donkey meat and sauce donkey meat to add color to the yellow noodles. As a result, there are Shunzhang brine donkey meat yellow noodles and Daji sauce donkey meat yellow noodles, with different characteristics and delicacies, to attract people's taste buds, well received by tourists.
Plates of yellow and smooth yellow noodles, plates of fragrant marinated meat, sauce meat, eat diners are full of taste, diners flock to endlessly. Gradually, Chinese and foreign tourists in Dunhuang were also attracted by this special delicacy. They carried long yellow noodles, ate beautiful donkey meat, and constantly made exclamations. Although the yellow noodles of donkey meat are in Dunhuang, the fragrance floats far away. This echoes the old saying that "wine is good and not afraid of deep alleys". What's more interesting is that some guests would rather not eat the star meal of the hotel, but also queue up on the street to buy a donkey meat yellow noodle and feast, which shows how popular it is among tourists.
Yellow-faced yellow, yellow-faced long, unusual to see with your own eyes. At the ramen scene, watching the ramen master perform is even more of an artistic enjoyment. I saw that the dough in the hands of the master seemed to be playing magic, and after repeated kneading and folding, a handful of noodles were fished out of the pot for a table of seven or eight people to eat. Because the noodles are very long and picky, people have to crouch on long stools to pick up noodles, and the scene is really lively. What's even more amazing is that when the ramen noodles are used, the master and the apprentice cooperate, one end presses the noodle head with a noodle knife, and the other pulls outward until it is pulled outside the kitchen door, the scene is really wonderful! Some tourists tried it on the spot under the guidance of the master, and they were particularly happy. The "donkey meat yellow face dragged outside the door" in "Dunhuang Eight Monsters" refers to this matter.
Donkey meat yellow noodles fragrant ancient city, Dunhuang cuisine is famous. Today, the vicissitudes of time are the icing on the cake. Dunhuang donkey meat yellow noodles are more and more refined, more and more stretched, love five continents and four seas, love Chinese and foreign guests. The exquisitely crafted yellow noodles, accompanied by a series of exquisite donkey meat with unique flavors, make the folk snacks of the past on the big stage of Dunhuang cuisine and bloom with full splendor. Shunzhang brine donkey meat yellow noodles and Daji sauce donkey meat yellow noodles, a hundred years of vicissitudes, five generations of inheritance, watching over the homeland nostalgia; a new, excellence, has become a famous Chinese snack. Tasting Dunhuang donkey meat yellow noodles, you are not only tasting Dunhuang cuisine, folk customs, but also the Silk Road culture and Chinese civilization on the thousand-year-old road.
The people take food as the sky, and food is named after beauty. For thousands of years, food has evolved into a special gastronomic culture. As an organic part of Dunhuang culture, Dunhuang food culture is also an important part of Chinese food culture. Think of the past, drink water and think of the source. Those creators and inheritors of Dunhuang cuisine are also innovators and promoters of Dunhuang culture.
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Gansu Daily: [Longshang this bowl of noodles] Qin'an long noodles
Salivating water
The salivating water on the farm's flowing water mat
Li Ziwei
In Lotus and other places in Qin'an County, Tianshui, a popular delicacy called "saliva (dialect pronounced han) water surface". This kind of noodles is, in most cases, eaten only when entertaining important guests. The noodles of "saliva water noodles" are rolled by hand, the noodles are thin, the soup is clear, the cheeks are exquisite, the eating method is unique, and it has a unique flavor.
The wheat flour used to make noodles is best based on local winter wheat, especially white wheat from Yangshan. The flour is ground with stone grinding and a bunch of noodles. Rolling noodles should first be done with noodles, and noodles are very exquisite, one is to prepare flour according to how much guests are prepared, the other is to mix water with the right temperature according to the temperature, and the third is how much alkali noodles are put in. In measuring these situations, the housewife has put her thoughts and feelings into the face. Why hand-rolled noodles are delicious, this is the beginning.
When making noodles, put the flour in the basin, one hand mixed with the alkali noodles of the water little by little into the noodles, the other hand five fingers stirred and noodles, water can not be poured into the noodles, this is very important. The housewife felt that the noodles were almost soft and hard, so she first repeatedly clumped them in the basin, and then placed them on the board and began to knead the noodles. The quality of the noodle rolling is all about kneading the noodles. The housewife kneaded the dough, and then rolled it up, repeating the same action over and over again, she kneaded it, while thinking about things, the bag on the slope should be hoeed; there is no pig grass, it is time to pluck some back; the son is studying in college, I don't know how to eat? The woman in the neighbor's house always throws swill water at the door, which makes people unhappy; the man has the problem of small gambling, and he always loses money, and he has to find a way to cure it... All kinds of happy and unpleasant thoughts are kneaded into the dough together, so that the kneaded noodles are emotional, lively and vibrant. Wait until the dough is kneaded, kneaded, kneaded, kneaded, then clustered into a round piece, and do not forget to pat it twice with your hands, like coaxing a child to sleep, buckle it with a basin, let it "wake up", the dialect calls this "nest noodles", let the dough "nest" a little, fully fermented, become better.
In the waking gap, the housewife began to wash, cut vegetables, side dishes, and carefully cut the vegetables and vegetables prepared in advance, such as yellow flowers, fungus, potatoes, carrots, tofu, cabbage, large meat, and green onions, which were carefully cut into small cubes, cut meticulously, regularly formed, with yellow, white, red and green, and five colors of attractive colors. Once you've done that, you'll uncover the basin, knead the waking dough many times, and start rolling out. Roll out the dough with a short rolling pin, then use the long rolling pin to start rolling it out in a big way. Only to see her holding the cane with both hands, rolling up, rolling, rolling up, rolling up again, rolling up with both hands, rolling up the case, making a sound of "teng, teng, teng", and the guests sitting in the guest room can also hear this moving and appetizing sound. After the noodles are rolled thin and rolled out, there is no hurry to cut, first dry on the board, let the water evaporate naturally, and after the careful housewife hangs for a while, it will be turned over and then dried on the other side, so that the water in the noodles is fully volatilized, more delicious.
While drying the noodles, the housewife began to stir-fry and make soup. Before cooking, first cook some fresh oil to pour spicy seeds, add a little salt and blending powder to the spicy noodles, and pour the hot sesame oil into the spicy noodles with a sound, and the spicy taste suddenly fills the room. Then start the stew to make soup. Only to see the housewife methodically put the cut vegetable cubes into the oil pot one by one, stir-fry repeatedly, and add the mixture of spices and salt made of large incense, cinnamon, grass fruits, ginger, peppercorns, etc. at the right time, and when the aroma is fried, it will be boiled in advance, and the fire will be turned off and let it cook slowly.
In the gap between slow-fire braised vegetables, start cutting noodles, first sprinkle the noodles on the noodles, then fold the noodles 180 degrees in half, then sprinkle a little bun of grain noodles, then fold in half, and then press the noodles with your left hand, little by little "inch", follow the kitchen knife in your right hand, follow the action of the left hand "inch", cut the noodles forward; some use a rolling pin to press the noodle mouth, and the kitchen knife cuts long under the rolling stick. The cut noodles are thin and long, very well-proportioned, and the locals call this noodle "Fragrant Noodles", which means thin and symmetrical. Such noodles are really "down to the pot lotus turn, fished into a bowl of a line." "The noodles are cut, folded into a small handful, placed on the case, it is a work of art."
The way to eat "saliva water" is very chic, when serving rice, the soup in the bowl should be wide, and the noodles should only catch one chopstick. At the same time, four plates of "next meals" are mainly seasonal dishes, such as cold cucumbers, water radishes, or shredded carrots, pickles, etc., of which there must be a plate of meat, or pork head meat, elbow slices and the like. Pay attention to the four plates, take the auspicious meaning of "four joys", avoid the three plates, folk believe that the upper three plates are dedicated to ghosts, called "three sacrifices of hair ghost gods". Lotus is famous for its tradition of brewing balsamic vinegar, which is rich in sour aroma and mellow and flavorful. The host bowl of bowl on the "saliva water", the bowl of red oil floating, the aroma is tempting, noodles tendons and teeth, smooth and unwinding, guests in the bowl into the oil spicy and balsamic vinegar, eat hot sweat, red light on the face, really "You Zhen North Mountain Noodles, a suction ruler more than long." After eating two mouthfuls of chopstick noodles, he put down the bowl, did not drink the soup, and then fished the noodles into his own bowl and continued to eat. There are many bowls on the table, and guests can also re-serve a new bowl of noodles, and the owner of the bowl of soup bowls that have eaten in front of them will serve them. But be careful, if you don't eat well, you have to continue to eat, the soup in the bowl must not be drunk, if you drink the soup in the bowl, the owner will think that you have eaten well and will no longer give it to you. The so-called "saliva water noodles" is because the noodles have been made with the soup in a bowl, so it is named.
Lotus flowers have a unique way of eating "salivating water", and jokes will be made among people who are not familiar with this custom. It is said that when a local girl was working in the field, she talked about an object, the first time she led him to see her parents, the family used "saliva water" to entertain him, this young man ate a bowl in two bites, and then drank soup, the family thought that the young man did not eat, and then did not go above, the young man went to the woman's house for the first time, the heart was very strange, the noodles were very fragrant, how to get on a bowl? I was embarrassed to ask, so I had to go hungry. At night, the woman's parents muttered. I don't want this marriage. The man said, "A young man only eats a bowl of rice, and he has the strength to work to support his family, and he does not lose his daughter"; the woman says, "I think our rice is not delicious, the mouth is still sharp, and it will be difficult for the girl to wait in the future." In the room on the other side, two young people were also muttering, and the woman asked the young man, "Why did you eat a bowl and not eat it?" The young man said, "Your family is stingy, and they only serve me a bowl of rice and then stop eating, and I am still hungry." The girl suddenly woke up, remembered the habit of eating "saliva water" in her hometown, and couldn't help but laugh out loud, so she told the young man the reason, and the young man only understood that he should not drink the soup in the bowl. The next year the young man came to this house again, the woman's parents still used "saliva water" to entertain, he remembered the words that could not drink soup, ate ten bowls in a row, ate the trouser belt was almost stretched, but forgot to eat enough to drink soup. The woman saw that he could not hold on, and pounded him, and he suddenly understood, and quickly drank the last bowl of soup.
At night, the woman's parents secretly laughed in the room, and they felt that the young man was honest and agreed to the marriage.
Lotus "salivating water", eating is the delicious taste in the noodles, tasting the feelings in the noodles, eating a bowl also want to eat the second bowl, the third bowl; after eating once also want to eat the second and third times.
Gansu Daily: [Longshang this bowl of noodles] Minle sheep beard flower flag flower noodles
Flag with sheep's beard
Sheep's beard
Liu Junzhong
Chinese food culture has a long history and is broad and profound. Traveling north and south, each city has its own unique delicacies that are mouth-watering. One side of the water and soil to raise one side of the people, we Zhangye folk music of the sheep's beard and flower flag, the same attracts visitors from all over the world, it is worth telling.
The flag of the sheep's beard flower is derived from folk music. People found a wild plant growing sheep's beard, and using it to decorate the rice is a very fragrant accessory, and then the sheep's beard flag is produced. "Sheep's beard" is named after its slender stems and leaves that resemble sheep's whiskers. Its petals are so small that you can't smell anything when you get close. But the sheep's beard can be seasoned, and the villagers often pluck it out of the stem, tie dozens of branches into bunches, take it home and put it on the window sill, or hang it directly on the beams and walls outside the house to dry. When you use it, put a little into the oil pot and simmer, the aroma is overflowing, and the appetite is greatly increased.
The yasuko braised flag is to reconcile the wheat noodles with light salt water, pour water into the pot until boiling into the good radish slices, then the reconciled noodles are rolled into a pancake on the board with a rolling pin and cut into small pieces in the shape of a diamond, and then the sliced noodles are put into the pot, after the noodles are cooked, the prepared sheep's mustach oil is put into the pot, "sigh", a refreshing aroma instantly overflows the whole room. At this time, the fragrant sheep's beard flag can be eaten. The aroma is the early summer sun, with a warm and joyful atmosphere.
The yasuko flag is a nutritious and healthy pasta with a strong local flavor. In many catering hotels, the sheep's beard flag with its unique taste, relatively low price in the fiercely competitive catering industry occupies a place, and now many hotels the sheep's beard flag has become a favored food, has become one of the local tourism and cultural products, with good market prospects.
The fragrance emitted by the flag of the yawn flower can spread far, and people walking on the road will sigh: "Whoever has come to the guest again, the fragrance of the sheep's beard flower has come out." ”
That fragrance is not convergent at all; that taste condenses a strong hometown flavor.
Source: Daily Gansu Network - Gansu Daily
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