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Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries

Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries

The Mid-Autumn Festival is approaching, and the protagonist of the moon worship in the Chao Customs Mid-Autumn Festival is actually a moon cake instead of a moon cake.

Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries

Chao-style rice cake was founded by Guiyu Xueyuan He Cake in the Kangxi Dynasty of the Qing Dynasty, and has a unique connotation and craftsmanship.

Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries

Peking Opera master Mei Lanfang wrote an inscription for Shanghai Yuancheng Cake Restaurant during the Mid-Autumn Festival in 1949.

A few years ago, when I was teaching Chaoshan cuisine to a group of Hong Kong guests, I met Mr. Yang Ziyi, a young talent of Hong Kong Chao, and later received two large volumes of monographs on Chao-style cakes sent to me. It turned out that Yang Ziyi's father, Mr. Yang Bolao, was apprenticed to the Xue Yuanhe Cake Family in his hometown of Guiyu Town, Chaoyang when he was young, and in 1948, after completing his studies, he left home to travel to Hong Kong and founded the Guiyu Hejilong Cake Family. After this family business passed to his second son, Yang Ziyi, he simply registered the cake food trademark with "Guiyu Zai". He said that when my father was young, he was called "Guiyu Zai", and later I was also called "Guiyu Zai", and now my nephew is also called "Guiyu Zai". We are all Guiyu people, of course, we are all Guiyu boys! The purpose of using "Guiyu Tsai" as a trademark is to let people know where we come from, in order to pass on the cake culture of our hometown and carry it forward!

Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries
Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries

Mr. Yang Ziyi presented me with two large volumes of monographs on trendy cakes.

Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries

Mr. Yang Bo in the shadow of the book.

Mr. Yang Bo's Guiyu Xueyuan He Cake Family, founded in the Kangxi Dynasty of the Qing Dynasty, is the oldest cake workshop known to Chaoshan. The Chaozhou bao cake, also known as the Chao-style mooncake, pioneered by Xue Yuanhe, is quite different from the Cantonese-style mooncake: first, the tide-style crust uses lard, so it is called a cake, and the vegetarian cake is specially made; second, the chao-style cake crust is crispy and layered because it is mixed with lard baking, which is obviously different from the fluffy and flexible of the Cantonese; the third is that the chao-style uses bean paste, melon cubes and beaded onions, and the Cantonese style uses lotus paste, char siu and egg yolk; fourth, the tide-style is more widely used, in addition to the Mid-Autumn Festival, it is also used as sacrifices and tea every day; fifth, the chao-style history is longer. Cantonese-style mooncakes were first created by "LianXiang Lou" during the Guangxu period, and the Chao-style style appeared in the early Qing Dynasty, in 1839, Chaoyang people set up a Yuanli cake house in Shanghai, and in 1949, the Shanghai Yuancheng Cake Restaurant, which was praised by the Peking Opera master Mei Lanfang as "Tea Food Taidou", was also opened by Chaoyang people.

Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries

The crust of the chao-style cake uses lard, so it is called a cake, and the stuffing of the black bean paste is also fragrant.

According to the works of Mr. Yang Ziyi, there are four main types of chao-style cakes, including cakes, sugar, cakes, and fullness, with hundreds of kinds, which are classified below.

1. Cakes

Common cakes are Guiyu bao cake (Chao-style wife cake), sugar skin winter melon cake (crystal cake), mung bean sand cake, red bean sand cake, taro paste cake, double spell cake, short onion cake, curd cake, bird cake, etc., limited in space, only a few are listed here. The more famous production areas of Chao-style rice cakes are also Yixi Big Cake, Southern Jiangsu Cake and so on.

1. Dahao Mao Fa Cake Home

Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries
Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries
Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries

Dahao Mao Fa Cake Home.

Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries

Mung bean paste filling.

Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries

The stuffing of the black bean sand has not yet been baked.

2. Singapore Taimao Hotel old store

Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries
Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries
Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries

3. Bird cake

Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries
Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries

It is formed in wu and added to sweet potatoes, which are mainly used for ancestor worship in the Qingming Dynasty.

4, some unnamed cakes

Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries
Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries

2. Cakes

Cakes include mung bean cake, moon cake, rice cake, cloud cake, lao ma cake, taro cake, caitou kun (radish cake), sweet rice cake and so on. Cloud cake is also known as book cake, stew cake, the main raw materials are glutinous rice, sugar, sesame oil, accessories are orange sugar, almonds, olive kernels, spices, enzyme dried vegetables and so on. The reason why it is called "book cake" is because this kind of pastry is closely attached to each other, resembling a bound book. Book cake is sweet and loose, suitable for all ages, especially suitable for infants and young to feed, has the effect of tonifying the spleen. The more famous shops include Longhu Stew Cake, Longdu Cloud Cake, etc., and Fengshun's "Wanyuan Zhai" Cloud Cake was also created in the early Qing Dynasty as a traditional famous pastry.

1. Cake printing

Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries

The wooden mold of cakes is lighter than that of kueh, and the types are more abundant.

Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries

My collection of ancient cake prints.

2. Cake boy

Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries
Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries
Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries

Haimen Cake, Longhu Stew Cake and Moon Cake.

3. Sweet rice cake

Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries
Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries

Folk homemade sweet rice for worship, every 1 kg of glutinous rice flour with 1 kg of sugar steamed for 1 hour, this about 10 kg of glutinous rice to steam for 10 hours to cook thoroughly.

4. Soup pills

Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries
Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries

3. Sugars

There are two kinds of sugars, crisp (hard) and soft, the common shortbread is bean kernel square, bean kernel strip, white (black) sesame strip, hemp thin, custard bean square, gong sugar crisp, bun sand (sugar peanut), sugar onion, orchid root, pod flower, sugar party (the following sacrificial use), sugar tower, sugar lion, sugar peach, dragon and phoenix pair, etc., fudge has bright sugar, bean, drizzle sugar (southern sugar), rice run (rice flower sugar), citrus cake, grapefruit candy, ginger sugar, five kernels of gummy, etc.

1. Bright sugar

Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries
Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries
Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries
Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries

Bright sugar is a type of fudge, and it turns out that you can cut the candy at home!

2. Shortening

Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries

Orchid root and shortening.

Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries

Tokai Restaurant's special pine nut crisp candy, crisp and tender and delicious.

Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries

The Dragon Lake crispy pig head used for sacrifice, similar to sugar towers, sugar lions, etc., are mostly molded.

3. Mirun

Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries
Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries

Master DahaoYao's Mirun (Rice Candy).

Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries
Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries

Pomelo candy and citrus cakes are both traditional products and are exported to Jiangnan.

4. Fasting the Five Sacrifices

Pictographic sugar cakes made of sugar or glutinous rice flour are mostly shaped by fish, shrimp, crabs and shellfish:

Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries

Not many people know about the Five Sacrifices, Yang Ji is made of sugar, and there are also rice noodles.

Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries
Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries
Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries
Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries

Fish snails and other shapes of jai five animals, photographed by Weng Zhixiong.

Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries
Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries
Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries
Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries
Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries
Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries

Most of the five animals are simulated in the shape of the five animals.

5. Tea

Tea food, Chaoshan people mostly call tea with, generally refers to sugar cake cake bags and other foods used for tea, but mainly sugar cakes, common are: sugar, bean, drizzle sugar (southern sugar), rice run (rice flower sugar), citrus cake, grapefruit candy, ginger sugar, five kernels fudge and so on.

Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries
Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries
Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries

Tea is actually tea.

4. Packages

Buns are also called full and buns, including shou peach, Daihatsu (noodle fermented rice), muffin cake (rice yeast), sweet potato full, red peach rice, rat koji and so on.

Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries
Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries
Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries
Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries

Fa Kueh, also known as Fermented Rice, is often used as an offering, and there is a saying that "Yeast Rice Is Painted empty, and the cream is rubbed on the stepping layer".

Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries

Park Zai Kwan also belongs to the group of yeast grits.

Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries
Why does Mei Lanfang call Chaoshan sugar cake "tea food taidou"? The past and present lives of Chaoshan sugar cake pastries

There are many other types of kueh that have not been seen in other places, and I will not go into detail here due to space limitations.

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