The iteration of the celebrity tide brand is moving farther and farther in the direction of "be yourself and let others say go".
Reporter/Yang Tan
Justin Bieber endorses CK Lingerie
From Cute Zhengtai to ten thousand people annoying
Controversy is commonplace for Canadian pop singer Justin Bieber, who in his early years was ranked fifth on the "Worst American Popularity List." In contrast, Bieber faced much lighter accusations this time, but it only caused many people on social media to complain that he overpriced his less valuable designs.
Earlier this year, Bieber officially launched his personal clothing brand Drew House, which takes its name from the middle name of its full name "justin drew bieber", inspired by roller skating culture. The first 14 items to be produced in limited quantities in Los Angeles cover genderless streetwear such as oversize t-shirts, hoodies, trousers and more. Although a simple-designed t-shirt sold for $48 and corduroy trousers sold for $148, they were swept away within hours of being sold online. This is naturally indispensable to the pursuit of fans, but it has to be admitted that Bieber also has appeal in the field of fashion.
I remember when I had a public affair with actress Selena Gomez in 2011, Bieber looked like a shy and well-behaved teenager, and before that, the ubiquitous purple hoodie and "alpaca head" hairstyle were his most distinctive personal style. Cooper Lawrence, author of Cult of Celebrity, commented: "Most underage boys can't wait to be rock 'n' roll youth, friends, shawls, smokers and drinks. Bieber was clean in many ways, had no bad habits, and unlike the bad boys, he was able to give a sense of security. ”
Bieber's hip-hop outfit
However, soon people witnessed the collapse of a well-behaved baby and cute persona. During that time, Bieber and pop culture were "crazy" days, and he made mistakes that could not be washed away by how many "young and crazy" he used, beating photographers, illegally bringing monkeys into Germany, smoking marijuana, drunk driving, resisting arrest, throwing eggs at neighbors... Countless black histories have sent Bieber to the famous American variety show "Spit Conference". By this time, he had drawn a line with the boyish bopper look, shifting from a high-street brand to luxury fashion. Bieber, dressed in a custom suit, sat on the stage and was sprayed for two hours by a group of "friends" he had invited, one of which was bitten by the host, "Black Culture".
Although Bieber is not a hip-hop artist, he often wears hip-hop, once indulging in low-riding or sagging, and even exposing his entire ass. This kind of person who likes to hang his pants below the waist, revealing half of the panties or the whole panties is called "sagger". It is said that sagging originated in American prisons, in order to prevent prisoners from using the belt as a tool for suicide or murder, the prison did not wear a belt for them, and the prisoners could only wear wide pants, so that they were naturally stuck in the buttocks and dragged. Later, the freedom-seeking, rebellious mainstream hip-hop youth thought that this kind of dressing was new, and many rappers in the 90s such as dr dre and snoop dogg were sager. As the crowd grew, mainstream figures began to oppose the display of underwear and butts in public, and bans at different levels were enacted. Bieber, who was in a rebellious period, wanted to regain this trend and wore the leggings into the effect of crotch pants.
Bieber's "future grunge" style at concerts
From the countless selfies on Bieber's instagram, you can see that as long as there is a chance to expose his underwear, you can clearly see the words Calvin Klein. Coupled with his good body that he usually practiced, he finally attracted the brand to hand over the endorsement contract for underwear advertising. This is exactly what Bieber wanted! He has improvised at a Fashion Week event and said in an interview with Us Weekly that "I wouldn't feel so comfortable if I wasn't wearing my C-ck underwear."" For brands, finding Bieber, a topic of constant scandal, to endorse is tantamount to gambling. But that marketing also jumped to the headlines in fashion media and entertainment news.
The cover of the October issue of complex magazine in 2015 was led by American photographer David Braque. Under his lens, Bieber, bound by chains, is in the middle of the ocean. The blockbuster finally ended with Bieber breaking free from the shackles to symbolize his transformation from child star to mature entertainer.
Bieber co-branded perfume "girlfriend"
The cultivation of the fashion godfather
"Purpose" not only helped Bieber return to the peak of music, but also further his street fashion influence.
Since 2016, the world's most famous top stars have invariably engaged in tour merch (concert merchandise), on the one hand, because the income from simple music is not as good as before, the surrounding can make artists create topics like new albums to maintain a sense of existence; on the other hand, as long as the design is good, people will treat it as a fashion item, rather than a concert souvenir. The initiator of this sudden trend is rapper Kanye West. His "yeezus tour" product with street artist Wes Lang didn't go crazy in an instant, but redefined the design language of tour merch: playfulness, crossover and fashion. Another of West's peripheral works, Pablo, has opened pop-up shops in 21 cities around the world, even though many of them do not have concerts. Pablo became a new brand, and you may not have heard the songs from that album, but you probably saw those T-shirts.
Bieber also came to power through tour merch. In preparation for the "purpose tour" global tour, Bieber hired Jerry Lorenzo, the trending trendy manager, to do the styling. Lorenzo synthesized Bieber's obsession with skateboarding culture and 90s rock 'n' roll, came up with the concept of "future grunge" and enlisted artist Mark Ridic to design the logo accordingly. Bieber on stage blends the iconic symbols of rockers from the late '70s to the '90s — Axor Rose's Scottish skirt, Metallica's vintage band t-shirt, grunge's tattered denim pants and his own tattooed arms.
Fog designed by Jerry Lorenzo
Hayley Bieber in a drew house street shot
Not only that, but the perimeter of the global tour has also been completely transformed, with tannin coats, T-shirts, hooded tops and hats priced from $30 to $360, and each person is limited to one piece. Internet creative platforms and shops vfiles cleared Bieber's shop on Mercer Street, opened a two-day pop-up store, and attracted a large number of tickets to queue overnight.
Mark Riddick, who designed bieber's logo, knows the risks of working with pop idols, but as he says, "I'd rather create something for people to know about heavy metal than have it completely erased by pop." ”
Bieber was cool during the release of Purpose, but it was still suspected of following the trend. It wasn't until last summer that he was photographed at the Coachella Festival's beach-inspired look that he really convinced fashion critics. Bieber in the photo with a paisley-patterned turban hoops that unkempt blonde hair, wearing a New York men's youas Hawaiian print suit, paired with vetements socks and louis vuitton sandals, looks relaxed and cheap and in line with the festive atmosphere, but critics exclaimed: This is the best "scumbro" fashion!
The term "scumbro" was coined by Vanity Fair to describe the pro-people image of the boy next door created by American comedian Pete Davidson, but ironically, he deliberately chose clothes that looked inconspicuous but very expensive, a bit like a hippie who couldn't spend a lot of money and the arrogance of a star. Last summer, the word appeared frequently in the headlines of entertainment editions spying on celebrities. The male stars who appeared in the scumbro special were dressed as scruffy as if they were fighting with dirty laundry. Fashion critics pointed out in the column that scumbro is the climax of this round of "ugly fashion cycle", creating a rough texture. Justin Bieber is very representative and confidently predicts that everyone will dress like that in the summer of 2019.
Drew house corduroy shorts
Star brand new paradigm
Bieber's trendy brand follows the scumbro's aesthetic style, and each garment is ground first and then blended, meaning that each garment is unique, just like the person who wears it.
Some designs are deliberately ridiculous, such as the brand name on the front crotch of the pants; even more "infamous", adding a smiley face logo to the free slippers of the hotel that Bieber likes to wear out of the street, putting an eBay logo on it, and reselling it for $300. Even if he was scolded as "garbage", Bieber didn't care. Wren Goode, the stylist who helps him run the brand, said in an interview, "We just want to have fun and enjoy what we want to do." Fans who follow him have found that Bieber has been testing drew house designs since last fall, but no one knows which brand the smiley t-shirts that appear in street shots come from.
Celebrities as designers have been a hot topic in recent years, before pop singer J Balvin and Guess launched a joint series, British female singer Rita Aura's personal shoe brand Giuseppe Zanotti, American singer Rihanna Online Rumors is negotiating with French luxury giant lvmh Group to launch a luxury brand named after her. Rihanna has had many successful cases in doing branding. In 2016, beauty incubator Kendo partnered with her beauty product line fenty beauty, which exceeded 100 million in sales in just a few weeks, and in just one year, it had 6.3 million followers on Instagram and 490,000 subscribers on YouTube.
Hotel slippers printed with the Drew House smiley face logo
Marketing consultancy kline & company says it's inextricably linked to Rihanna's high popularity, but it's not just her name that makes consumers pay. "The common problem I have with a lot of dark-skinned women is that the cosmetics industry always designs goods based on white people." Rihanna writes, "This is not a new phenomenon, but a problem that has been circulating all along." "Fenty Beauty's success lies in the fact that it takes into account the needs of women of all skin tones, has 40 different color foundations, and is one of the most colorful cosmetics on the market.
The halo and traffic that celebrities bring with them make it easier for their personal brands to attract attention, but the marketing paradigm that can succeed as long as they are named can no longer be used as a sales guarantee. In the fashion sector, the eponymous brand of "Bay Sister-in-law" Victoria has not yet made a profit, while the sustainable fashion brand Edun, co-founded in 2004 by the famous rock band U2 lead singer Bono and his wife, ended their partnership with lvmh Group last year. Nowadays, it is not enough for star brands to only export personal IP, but also to do their own work, put forward personal values, and let target consumers buy products because they imitate this lifestyle. In this way, Bieber's tide card really does not need to please everyone.
Drew House debut series