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Walk around and eat - forty-five minutes face to face with Jiro Ono
Early Summer Meiji Jinjo Sando
season
In mid-May, Tokyo is filled with the atmosphere of early summer, and the weather is getting hotter, and people fade off their spring clothes and change into cool summer clothes. Ingredients have also gradually enriched, such as true high abalone, baby ayu (wild ayu cannot be caught until June), small muscles, bamboo clipfish, bird tail clams, island briquettes, first bonito, etc., have entered the spring and summer menus.
The reincarnation of the four seasons is the most perceptible in the pavilion, whether it is the characteristics of the cooking itself, the seasonal changes of the courtyard landscape, or the changes in the decoration of the individual rooms, so that diners can feel the rotation of the seasons and the flow of time in an all-round way.
But at Edo-mae sushi restaurants, this subtle change of season can only be expressed in the subject matter (ねた) on the subject matter (ねた) on vinegar rice (sushi restaurants call it "relics", which is jargon, and diners casually use it indiscriminately).
location
Ginza Station is the meeting point of the Ginza Line, Marunouchi Line, and Hibiya Line. Above Ginza Station is Tokyo's busy commercial center and transportation hub, the Nobuya Bridge (Shujiya Bridge). During the Edo period, the Sujiya Bridge was a bridge over a moat (built in 1629; replaced by a new bridge in 1929 in Showa 4, and demolished in 1958 for the construction of a highway), and is now a general reference to the region.
Jiro Ono(1925- ) 's sushi restaurant, Jiro Noboru Yabashi (すきやばしJiro) is located in a small corner of Exit C6 of ginza subway station. The storefront is small and old, and it's still underground, which is really inconspicuous. But for most people, it is undoubtedly the most famous sushi restaurant in the world.
If the name of Jiro Sugiyabashi's shop is unfamiliar, the so-called "sushi god" is unknown. I personally hate the title of "God", David Gelb's documentary is called "Jiro's Dream of Sushi", why did I become a simple and crude "sushi god"?
Poster for the documentary "Jiro's Sushi Dream"
The spirit of the craftsman can be understood as a professional dream of practicing the skill like a fire, and the ultimate nature of God is completely in conflict with the endless concept of learning the artisan spirit. What's even more outrageous is that it is also a gimmick to cook the three gods in front of Edo, which is an obligation!
It was lunch at 12:00 noon, so I went to Meiji Shrine in the morning. All along, the meiji jingu shrine has attracted me the most is the long stone road, lined with centuries-old trees on both sides, the stone road is wide and long, and the tranquility is boundless. When Emperor Meiji died of illness and built meiji jingu Shrine, countless good trees were donated from various places, creating a dense forest in Tokyo. Walking around, I almost forgot the time, and when I looked at the watch time, I was already a little nervous, so I rushed to Ginza.
The Large Torii Gate in Meiji Jingu Shrine is the largest wooden torii gate in Japan
Chance encounters with weddings
Exit C6 is not close to the Hibiya Line, and it has been a long, long time since exiting the gate. Hurrying and hurrying to finally arrive at the store door on time, the familiar cramped storefront radiated an awe-inspiring light.
signboard
background
Ono Jiro's story is well known, and he was born in 1925 (Taisho 14) in Tenryu City (now part of Hamamatsu City) in Shizuoka Prefecture. In 1951, he entered the Famous Sushi Restaurant in Edo-Mae Kyobashi and studied art with Shino. He was then assigned to the Osaka branch as the head chef. In 1955, Jiro Ono took over the Yonasumi Noboru Branch. In 1965, the store became independent, and the world had this small shop in Ginza, Jiro Yabashi (hereinafter referred to as "Jiro" refers to the name of the store, and "Jiro" refers to Ono Jiro).
For decades, with wind and frost, rain and snow, Jiro has been holding sushi for customers behind this log bar day by day. In 2007, the Michelin Red Guide entered Japan, and in the 2008 Tokyo Michelin Guide released in November of that year, Jiro Nobuyabashi received three Michelin stars, and Ono Jiro himself became the oldest three-star chef in history. Prior to this, at the age of eighty, he also won the title of "Modern Famous Worker" (see Noda Rock Food Record, scan the QR code at the end of the article to pay attention to "walk around and eat" to find Noda Rock Food Review).
Ono Jiro and his eldest son, Akiichi Ono, and an apprentice, this smile contrasts with the end of the text
We have the impression that Sushinayashi Jiro is a restaurant that is very difficult to make reservations, but in fact, there are several things that really make Sushinayabashi Jiro out of reach. One is that the Michelin Guide entered Japan, and many famous stores have become famous overseas; the second is David Gelb's documentary, which makes overseas audiences look at this small sushi restaurant under Ginza; and the third is that when Obama visited Japan in 2014, he paid a special visit to Jiro Sumamoto.
Of course, the reservation method of many restaurants in Japan also creates a problem for diners, accepting reservations for the next month on the first day of the month, only telephone reservations, and not accepting foreign reservations, etc., which makes the hotel concierge with the Golden Key busy (Tokyo currently has 16 Golden Key members, Tokyo Palace Hotel and Mandarin Oriental have two, and other famous hotels such as Okura, Peninsula, Conrad, Park Hyatt, Aman, Shangri-La and other famous hotels also have Golden Key members).
In the early years, Jiro Sushinosuke Yabashi served sushi a la carte, and diners were also available at loose tables outside the bar. Casual table guests can also enjoy a special sushi platter. Until last year, it was also possible to take photos of sushi. Today, these rules have changed, and only a chef's menu containing 20 pieces of sushi and 1 serving of tamago yaki (お任せ, the number of sushi is not fixed, 18 is floating up and down); no photographs are allowed; and loose tables are used for guests to eat melons. Mobile phones cannot be placed on the bar counter, only on the storage board under the bar.
Edo-mae sushi was originally a street food, used by curtain warmers to wipe their hands, diners came and went in a hurry, and sushi was born with street genes. But since the development of sushi craftsmen, the skills of sushi craftsmen have improved layer by layer, and this simple combination of raw fish and vinegar rice has created a unique and delicious experience that has to be admired. In contrast, sushi restaurants have more requirements for customers.
On that day, when he arrived at the door of Jiro Sumiyahashi, he found a compatriot dressed in collarless clothes, and the clerk did not allow him to eat inside for a while. Although he finally went in, naturally such a small episode was a little unpleasant for diners and shopkeepers.
sushi
Jiro Sukiyahashi's bar is L-shaped, and I sit in the second position behind the corner, facing Jiro. He saw the customer sitting down, and after giving a gesture, he began to prepare sushi. Due to a friend's visit a month ago, the result was that Erlang was unwell that day and did not appear, and it was the eldest son Zhen Yi who held it. Therefore, before entering the seat, I ate and ate Jun, and I was worried that if I didn't see the old man, I would inevitably have regrets. Now facing Erlang, the worry in his heart has landed.
The apprentices offered hot towels and hot tea, and I was used to the hot welcome in Edo-mae, so the temperature of the towels did not surprise me, and there were naturally customers on the same stage who were burned by the towels. Sipping hot tea and looking up, Jiro had already begun to knead his first sushi.
Before visiting Jiro, I chatted with the masters of some famous sushi restaurants in Hong Kong and Macau (mostly the semicolons of Famous Shops in Tokyo), and they all had mysterious smiles. It is said that Mr. Jiro's sushi is going to be eaten quickly, and it will end in twenty minutes, and he has to eat a lot of sushi, and his sushi is quite large. Eating sushi at Jiro's house is really not something that can be done slowly, but if you come here, it's safe to see what the actual rhythm is.
In a trance, Jiro had already placed the makoto flounder in front of me. The black plate sets off the yellowish color of the real flounder. Jiro was the first sushi restaurant to select Makoto flounder as a sushi theme.
Mako-sarden
Ono Jiro's chef's menu is said to have been designed in collaboration with food critic Yoshihiro Yamamoto, and is like a symphony, with its own unique rhythm inside. True flounder is like a primer, and the taste of white fish begins. This makoto flounder is even lighter than the flounder, and the fresh sweetness of the fish is completely shrouded in the sour taste of vinegar rice.
Compared to the previous night's Aoko (the apprentice of the shopkeeper Ono Jiro), Jiro's vinegar rice is not as viscous and spreads out faster after entering. After tasting, it was found that the acidity of the vinegar rice was very high. This impression became even stronger with the usual sushi. The acidity is higher than most sushi restaurants.
Jiro kneaded the sushi in an orderly manner according to the customer batch, and the four of us sat at the same time, so he basically pinched it four times and then put it on our plate one by one. Yusheng is handled by the eldest son, Shuichi, and the apprentice, and is cut and pinched, and then passed on to Erlang, who is only responsible for kneading. Since each person has a menu, there is also no need for much verbal introduction. Jiro was even more silent, only observing the color from time to time, in addition to basically no communication with customers.
Between thoughts, the second sushi was already in front of me, and it was cuttlefish (cuttlefish). White as water, the outer layer of the mouth is soft and sticky, but it contains brittleness when chewed. The fainter cuttlefish highlights the acidity of the vinegar rice, which is very special.
cuttlefish
Before the start of the tuna trilogy, the consistent tuna (縞鯵) acted as a transition. The common ones are mostly farmed, fat is thick, and the entrance is greasy. Jiro's rice is very special, there is no fat feeling after the entrance, but there is an uncommon fresh taste. This light taste fills the mouth and is evocative.
Blah blah
However, Ono Jiro did not intend to give diners too much time to reminisce. As soon as this belly falls, the tuna is already on the naked body (tuna red body). In the fate of the ups and downs of the tuna, naked was once popular and was beaten into the cold palace. But nowadays, the fresh and slightly sour naked body is once again favored.
lean meat
The naked body in the chef's menu is not stained with soy sauce, and the faint smell of blood and sour is mixed, and the humidity is just right, so you can experience the benefits of fresh naked body. However, it is said that if several customers have booked the stained naked body, they may also consider providing it.
In this era when tuna was king, the mid-abdomen (中トロ) and the large abdomen (大トロ) often became a link in aesthetic fatigue. Jiro's mid and large abdomen are delicious, but eating Jun's personal preference is naturally more inclined to the middle abdomen in the transitional position.
Midgaste
The name of the belly is said to be due to its high fat content and its torotto taste. But by now, that adjective has been used badly. However, in addition to these four words, there is really no better word to describe this big belly.
Big belly
Small muscles (small muscles) are regarded by many as the signature of sushi restaurants, but eaters are naturally a little timid about some bright skin fish. Some bright-skinned fish naturally have a strong fishy smell, how to pretreat it, remove the fishy taste, highlight the elegant taste of the fish itself, is where the kung fu of a sushi restaurant lies. Until now, only Jiro has always made my eyes light up.
Small muscles
First of all, the meat is firm and chewy, and secondly, the entrance is very sour, but the aftertaste is sweet and has a special aroma. The most important thing is that there is no trace of fishy smell, not even in the aftertaste. The small muscles are pre-salted with salt and vinegar, and the time is calculated according to the size and thickness, which is a complex task that can only be carried out after leaving the school, and the difficulty is very high. To this day, only Jiro's small muscles make me feel endlessly.
If divided by two pages left and right of the menu, the first ten sushi are like the first act (movement) of a big play (or instrumental work), and the last ten sushi are the second act. In the first act, I think the climax appears on the steamed abalone (steamed bun).
Steamed abalone
The abalone of the Bansho Peninsula is carefully cooked with wine steaming for three or four hours, and the abalone has taken on an amber color. There are many shops that handle abalone in this way, and it is also early summer to hold sushi with steamed abalone. But Jiro's abalone has always had an extremely strong abalone aroma in its mouth. Warm and soft abalone is not soft and rotten, on the contrary, it is soft and rigid, which can be chewed for a few bites. Other home abalone sushi often does not have enough abalone flavor, leaving only sad soy sauce and wasabi flavor.
Although it was not yet halfway through, the female compatriots next to them had begun to surrender their weapons. Jiro's technique of pinching sushi is very fast, and usually he sees that the diners are consistently falling, so he is ready to go down. But because his sushi was so small (even though he adjusted it to the customer's gender and eating habits), the female compatriots didn't have time to swallow, and they were always piled on the plate.
This does bother diners who are unfamiliar with Edo-mae sushi. The brain simply cannot process such a wealth of taste information in such a short period of time, and the end result may be a complete inability to savor the wonders of Jiro sushi. Jiro Shuyabashi is really not very suitable for friends who have just met Edo.
Bamboo basket (鰺) follows the abalone, and unlike many sushi restaurants, Jiro's bamboo basket does not have shallots and minced ginger on it. Sliced ginger is hidden between raw fish and vinegar rice. Bamboo shootfish have always been one of my favorite species of bright-skinned fish. Just the right fat distribution, fresh and sweet and rich, but without the shock of the previous sensation.
Bamboo shootfish
Freshly unwrapped Akabe (Akatsuki) is not bad, while Jiro's Akabe is not only sweet, but also particularly crisp to chew, with a faint seawater aroma echoing through the nasal cavity of the mouth. At this time, it was already in the middle of the menu, the tenth sushi, and it only took about 15 minutes to see it. This is truly the most efficient sushi experience I've ever experienced.
Chibei
The tenth is straw-smoked bonito (bonito), and May is the best time for the first bonito. The so-called "when the wife (the fourth sound) also eats the first bonito", the Edo people's love for the first bonito is evident.
Bonito
Bonito heading north is considered to be of better quality. After straw smoking (in 2013, Jiro Sumiyabashi also caught fire for smoking bonito), the bonito absorbed a strong aroma of straw, and the rich fat between the skin and flesh did not disappear, and the crispy flesh brought out a seductive pyrotechnic aroma. Jiro's bonito is refrigerated immediately after being grilled and cooled down without cold water, which is said to maintain the fat between the skin and meat.
The sushi theme in the second half is mainly crustaceans and shellfish. Shrimp slugs (cockroaches) soon appeared, and the meat of the seed-holding shrimp and maggots was somewhat loose, and it was delicious to eat. Shrimp and maggots are soaked in a "coastal juice" made of mirin, sugar and soy sauce to make it look too sweet. Not much like it.
Shrimp cockroaches
When the bird's tail clam (birdtail) is shiny, the pointed tail reveals a sense of anger. The flesh of this bird's tail clam is thick and compact, slightly boiled water and kneaded into sushi, the inside is still tender, and you can feel a sweetness after entering. After the summer begins, the bird's tail clam is no longer eaten, which is a typical ingredient at the turn of spring and summer. It is said that the birdtail clams produced in Tokyo Bay in the early years were of outstanding quality and produced amazingly, but now they are difficult to find, which is also the worry of sushi workers.
Bird-tailed clams
Ingredients such as shrimp (Che Hai Lao), as long as they are fresh and the temperature is right, they will not be unpalatable. Jiro's shrimp is very large, cut in two, eating the sweet tail first, and then eating the rich head, this order will not be forgotten since he was taught at the Shuyabashi Jiro Roppongi Shop... This idea is also consistent with the setting of the Jiro sushi menu.
prawn
Needlefish (fish) is a type of bright-skinned fish that is marinated in vinegar when it is not possible to obtain very fresh needle fish in the early years. Nowadays, sushi is made with fresh needle fish. As the name suggests, the "thin fish" fish body is slender, so it is often folded and held, but in recent years, there are many fat needle fish, and the grip method does not necessarily follow the old system. This is always light and elegant, but there is no impression.
Needlefish
Clams (clams) also use the marina juice staining method, similar to the treatment of shrimp and maggots, sweet and warm clams give people a sense of happiness.
clam
It was followed by the Sea Urchin (Yundan) roll. Jiro Nichiyahashi's seaweed treatment method is often expressed in "OnoJiro's Sushi Dream", and the charcoal oven is carefully baked to achieve the crisp drying of seaweed. This seaweed "clicks" and breaks after entering, releasing a sweet and rich purple sea urchin.
Sea urchin roll
After eating this consistently, the number is already 17th, and I, the big old man, have already felt very full. Several female compatriots next to them are even more anxious, trying to keep up with the pace of Erlang's grandfather as soon as possible, which is indeed a delicious sushi war...
The practice of seaweed roll sushi is said to have been pioneered by the old Tokyo sushi restaurant Hisabe (久兵衛), and has become an essential part of the chef's menu. In addition to the sea urchin warship rolls, there are also various hand scrolls, most of which use this idea.
The rich flavor of the sea urchin is like culminating in the second act of the menu, and after the finale, it is time to relax and finish. The sea urchin is followed by the crisp and tender Chinese Marco clam shell column (small pillar), which is tender and clear- and announces that the taste journey has gradually entered the final stage.
columella
Of the last few sushi, salmon roe (いくら) was the most impressive, with the strong soy sauce aroma, accompanied by the juice flowing out of the roe burst, giving a unique taste experience.
Salmon eggs
Salmon spawn during the 90th month of each year, when Jiro marinates fresh salmon roe in soy sauce and sake and refrigerates them in a freezer at minus 60 degrees Celsius, so that salmon eggs can be served all year round. This consistent warship is like a small embellishment in front of a formal dessert, which makes people completely relax. Take a sip of tea and greet the last two.
Star eel
The star eel (cave) is soft and abnormal, but the goose has passed without a trace and does not remember much. And the end of the tamagoyatsu is even more disappointing to me, I thought that Jiro's tamagoya must be fluffy and soft, but I didn't expect it to be a little dry. I don't know if the apprentice is not playing very well today?
Tamako
Looking at the time, forty-five minutes had passed. The meal time is much longer than imagined, probably Erlang saw that the female compatriots were too late to eat, and slowed down, right? And the two Japanese guests who came long after me next door had already caught up with me... The apprentice asked if we needed anything more, and although I liked steaming abalone, I really had more than enough and didn't have enough strength, so I gave up.
End
The whole menu ended, after a few sips of hot tea, and the apprentice invited us to the loose table to eat greenhouse melon. Napkins can be taken away as a souvenir, and the time of honeydew melon consumption is controlled by yourself. However, when there are more customers, the apprentice will also remind the customers who have finished eating the melon to check out in time. The two female compatriots who were seated at the same time as me felt that they could finally breathe a sigh of relief, and by the way, they would reminisce about the twenty pieces of sushi they had just swallowed. So much flavor information rushing into the brain in such a short period of time is extremely challenging for most people.
honeydew
For me, forty-five minutes of meal time is basically enough. However, compared to the 8-12 portions of other sushi restaurants, the information per unit time intake is indeed more, and the rhythm is slightly tense. However, Jiro's service is warm and thoughtful, the hot tea has not cooled, and the plate is wiped very timely.
Jiro's sushi is always characterized and clearly pointed, conveying Jiro's deep understanding of this sushi theme, which can be said to be a very complete meal. The menu is designed from light to rich, then to fresh and sweet, then to a second climax, and then to tranquility. Even if there is no wine appetizer, it still makes me eat with relish.
As the saying goes, it is actually difficult to be famous, but Jiro Shuyabashi is worthy of the name. I prefer red vinegar rice, but Jiro's white vinegar rice also impressed me, and it was just right with the theme. Although there are people who do not have my taste, you can still feel ono's handling philosophy.
At checkout, I picked out a small book at the front desk, Jiro Gastronomy, and although the title uses the big word gastronomy (cooking method, cooking concept), it is actually a booklet that introduces the main ingredients of Jiro Shuyoyabashi and how to enjoy sushi. Every book sold in the store has the signatures of Jiro and Yoshihiro Yamamoto. Yamamoto Yoshihiro and Jiro Ono are friends of the flowing waters of the mountains.
One small book, several books by Ono Jiro are basically the same content
signature
Taking a picture with the old man is also a stressful thing, and in the many photos I have seen (including him and mine), Ono Jiro has not laughed much. Only one of my beautiful girlfriends, in her photo with Ono Jiro, the old man smiled like a flower... Gee.
Leaving Jiro Sumiyahashi, I walked up the steps and found that the sun was scorching outside, and the pace of summer was indeed approaching. The crowds of Ginza are bustling, and Jiro Shuyoyahashi's years are quietly spent in this noise. Legends are alive, the years are too old, every encounter should be cherished, and every sushi should naturally be tasted.
It is a Japanese napkin with a menu
11-15 July 2016 Hong Kong
Visited may 14, 2016
Indifferent face group photo I will not show my face...
Acknowledgement
Thanks Miss. Two beauties of Neverfull (web blog) and TastyTrip (WeChat public account).
Allow me to use the sushi photos they took
The copyright belongs to them.
Sushi is different and the pictures are for reference only.
Restaurant information
Name: Sukiya Kojiro Head Office (Sukiyabashi Jiro Head Office)
Location: Tsukamotoro (Tsukamoto Building), 4-2-15 Hiza, Chuo-ku, Kyoto, Japan B1F
PHONE: 81-03-3535-3600 (full reservation)
Category: Sushi
Per person: 30,000 JPY+ (lunch and dinner, only one chef menu)
P.S.
Want to join the WeChat group of readers who eat and eat Jun, and want to meet the friends of the small partners in the north and south of the world?
method
Add away to eat and eat the service number woshichichijun (I am eating and eating Jun Pinyin), I drag you in ~!
Eat and eat Jun completely travel at your own expense to try food, and have no interest in the store (I would like to have ah, white eyes)
Come and pay attention to the public number of li ~ ~ I can also not move to Douban one by one (there should be a crying and laughing expression here)