【Taste of Kaifeng】Column Liu Haiyong Wen
Kaifeng hanging oven baked cake is usually seen on the street we see the inverted iron pot made of baked cake, because the shape resembles a chicken nest, the old Kaifeng people call it "chicken coop baked cake". This time, it was served at the state banquet of the Shanghai Prime Minister's Association, and the creation of the burnt cake is also the inevitability of the burnt cake.
A baked cake that embraces all things
The most common food is often for people to remember. Speaking of burnt cakes, everyone is no stranger, when I was a child, I liked to eat lids, yellow brown crisp, not to mention, and the sesame seeds on it were the most delicious. Burnt cakes originated from the Han Dynasty, which was an imported product brought by Ban Chao to the Western Regions, which was called Hu Cake at that time, and the Ling Emperor liked to eat Hu Cake very much, and the Tang and Song Dynasties were very popular. Kaifeng baked cake has a long history, inheriting the technology of the Northern Song Dynasty and continuous improvement, delicious is charcoal baked, Kaifeng baked cake is mostly made of fermented noodles, rolled core, cut flowers and spread rounds, and then single-sided dipped sesame stickers baked, white noodles after processing and heating, slowly turn yellow, full of aroma. Baked cakes are like an inclusive city, whether it is cutting beef and mutton or sandwiching frittered steamed buns or even stir-fried cold powder while hot, meat and vegetarian are all partners, even if nothing is sandwiched, dry baked cakes are another delicacy.
Baked cakes have become a generation of masters
During the Republic of China period, there was a roasted cake in Kaifeng, called Wang Changxing, who achieved the ultimate in baking cake and became a generation of masters. Wang Changxing is a native of Qixian County, and it seems that there are many Qixian baked cakes hanging in the streets and alleys of various cities. When he was 11 years old, Wang Changxing was introduced to the bakery stall at the gate of Qixian County as an apprentice, studied for many years, and then worked as a buddy in other places in Qixian County. In 1911, he came to Kaifeng, and successively worked as a full-time bakery in Yan Laoliu, Wei Zhixiang, Li Qingshan and other places, because Li Qingshan smoked and gambled, and the debt fled, so from 1916 to 1920, Wang Changxing replaced Li Qingshan to repay the debt, and the shops along the street of Dakeng naturally belonged to Wang Changxing, and since then he has specialized in operating a bakery shop.
Wang Changxing is honest and capable, excellent in technology, willing to use his brain and constantly innovate. On the basis of tradition, he constantly innovates the old, not only has many tricks, but also tastes good. He can make 48 kinds of burnt cakes. According to the "Kaifeng Diet Chronicle" (volume 2), Wang Changxing's burnt cake can be arbitrarily knifed such as three knives, four knives, large lace, small lace, shawl, pinched edge, monk hat, etc., and its finished knife edge is the same, the cover is small, the color is like a crab cover, the hemp seed is symmetrical, and the food is crisp and scorched; Wang Changxing can also make pictographic burnt cakes, and the "flower insect fish" are vivid in his hands, such as chrysanthemums, persimmon flowers, peaches, gourds, bergamots, frogs, magpies, scorpions, etc., 1 city of noodles can be made 16-20, small and exquisite Under his command, 1 jin noodle can make 20 to 25 "stuffed steamed cakes", the so-called "stuffed steamed cakes" is a change from the usual five-spice dish, adding fillings when making, there are hawthorn, date paste, mint, meat filling, etc., the shape has double happiness, ruyi, peach, etc., the finished product is yellow and brown, the filling is fragrant. He also made a crispy, burnt, spiced, chicken gold and other flavors of the "oven baked cake", to be baked for five or six hours, after the baking touch is broken, the food crispy full of flavor, unique flavor, even three volt days can be stored for ten days and half a month without mildew, not deteriorating, is the leader in the baked cake.
(Editor: Liu Haiyong)
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